Repair and continue driving or buy replacement vehicle?

I am trying to figure out if I should repair and continue driving my car or buy a replacement vehicle. I currently own a 2007 Honda Accod v6 with about 88,000 miles. I could sell the car for about 9,000 or trade it in for about 7,000. A new 2014 Honda Accord v6 would sell for about 28,500. At about 100,000 miles, within the next year, I will need a timing belt, water pump, drive belt service that will cost about 825.00.

So what do you think, repair and continue driving or buy a new or slightly used vehicle. I take decent care of the car I have and have not had major problems with it.

Thank you for the advice.

I will give you 7k and I will spend the $825. Problem solved.
 
wow- that is impressive. i dont think i have ever seen mileage that high on a vehicle

Nico, with today's cars, normal book maintenance will easily get you to 200K. Lots of highway driving will add to that. I see diesel pickups around here with several hundred thousand miles on them. I drive a diesel Jetta and it only has 140,000 on it, which is really not much.
 
I have the Accord's older brother, an Acura, one year older and 15k more miles. I did that maintenance (timing belt, plugs, etc) and a few other things as well. The car looks good, is in otherwise excellent condition and I see no reason it shouldn't give me another 100k. At age 60, if I drive 'till I'm 80, changing cars every 8 years means 3 more new cars. If I can get 12 years use that's still one less new car I'll have to buy. If I can get 15 years and 200k miles, that means only one more car to buy. That's real savings.

If my 2002 Chevy Trailblazer is still going strong at almost 200k, your Acura is a layup for 200k. Based on some past vehicle problems and old wives tales, I expected my car to literally collapse into a junk pile at 100k, but guess what, nothing happened. Even bad reputation models can have individual cars that run great. It is all about what yours is doing, not the collective group. I decided if you have a good horse, you run him hard until the end. Brake change, tires, battery, spark plugs, front wheel bearings, oil change, air filter and one $200 repair is all I have done to this vehicle for over 11 years. I didn't even bother to change tranny fluid until 190k on it. There are 3 check lights on the dash board lite up for over 5 years and I ignore them. This car vehicle was just built to run. BTW- I did not know people replaced the water pump before it broke, I am still waiting on mine or 100 other things that could go wrong to break but they haven't yet.
 
BTW- I did not know people replaced the water pump before it broke, I am still waiting on mine or 100 other things that could go wrong to break but they haven't yet.

The preemptive water pump replacement is based on access. Timming belt driven water pumps are a devil to get to (and expensive labor wise). Hence the recommenation to replace when the belt is changed.
 
The preemptive water pump replacement is based on access. Timming belt driven water pumps are a devil to get to (and expensive labor wise). Hence the recommenation to replace when the belt is changed.

Thanks,Bjorn makes sense. My vehicle has a timing chain so I hope that means I am exempt from that.
 
Make that a slightly used Porsche and save a bundle. This is a forum for frugal folks!;)

This later in life frugal thing is my problem. I almost always have had a fairly late model car. I could still perceive some degree in value of a new car payment, but I receive no value for paying full coverage vehicle insurance, and a hefty yearly personal property tax bill either. I have been on liability insurance so long now, I probably would cry like a baby cutting that premium check and property tax bill with a new vehicle.
 
I did not know people replaced the water pump before it broke, I am still waiting on mine or 100 other things that could go wrong to break but they haven't yet.

Gearhead response here:

Some engines, like my diesel, are "interference" engines, meaning that improper camshaft timing can cause the valves to hit the pistons, resulting in a very trashed engines in most cases.

Water pumps that are within the timing belt enclosure area can fail, thus pouring ethelyne glycol antifreeze and debris on the camshaft timing belt which generally causes it to fail or come off the drive pulleys. When this happens, it's valve and piston contact time.

Another dealer/mechanic shortcut is to not replace any idler pulleys in the timing belt path. Bearing failures in those pulleys can cause the belt to come off the driven pulleys resulting in the same outcome as above.

So, when in for a "timing belt change", it makes good sense to find a shop that replaces the water pump and other rotating components, along with a new belt tensioner.
 
I work with a lady with a 1978 firebird that had 648,000 miles when she junked it a couple years ago. Rust damage finally kicked her over the edge. My son has 260,000 on his 02 jetty diesel. I've gone through 5 dodge minivans with the lowest mileage when I sold them was 164,000 a couple went over 200k and still running. For me, I finally get tired of em after 8 or 9 years.
 
Gearhead response here:

Some engines, like my diesel, are "interference" engines, meaning that improper camshaft timing can cause the valves to hit the pistons, resulting in a very trashed engines in most cases.

Water pumps that are within the timing belt enclosure area can fail, thus pouring ethelyne glycol antifreeze and debris on the camshaft timing belt which generally causes it to fail or come off the drive pulleys. When this happens, it's valve and piston contact time.

Another dealer/mechanic shortcut is to not replace any idler pulleys in the timing belt path. Bearing failures in those pulleys can cause the belt to come off the driven pulleys resulting in the same outcome as above.

So, when in for a "timing belt change", it makes good sense to find a shop that replaces the water pump and other rotating components, along with a new belt tensioner.

The other side of the coin obviously is non-interference engines, which just quit running when the belt goes, no big damage. Knowing which type you have can help with decision making. :D
 
Gearhead response here:

Some engines, like my diesel, are "interference" engines, meaning that improper camshaft timing can cause the valves to hit the pistons, resulting in a very trashed engines in most cases.

Water pumps that are within the timing belt enclosure area can fail, thus pouring ethelyne glycol antifreeze and debris on the camshaft timing belt which generally causes it to fail or come off the drive pulleys. When this happens, it's valve and piston contact time.

Another dealer/mechanic shortcut is to not replace any idler pulleys in the timing belt path. Bearing failures in those pulleys can cause the belt to come off the driven pulleys resulting in the same outcome as above.

So, when in for a "timing belt change", it makes good sense to find a shop that replaces the water pump and other rotating components, along with a new belt tensioner.

Helpful info. That's what I was wondering. Being a preventive "while I'm in there" cheaper solution makes more sense to me. An externally accessed one like I've worked on is much quicker and cheaper to replace the h2o pump.

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I have a Honda accord V6 coupe, 2008 with only 23000 miles. I alternate driving it with a truck. It's my summer car. It looks and feel brand new.
Although I need more space and am tempted to trade it, practicality sets in fast, and I will keep the car for another 5 years or to 100000 miles which ever comes first. I'll use it for a lot of road trip in ER.
 
Selling that car for $9000 would be giving it away. Around here those cars sell for $12000 to $15000. You have a great car and I would keep it. This is coming from someone who has been working a cars and trucks for over 50 years. The timing belt would be a piece of cake and not cost me that much to install. The parts would cost me around $190 including a new water pump. This car does have an Interference Engine meaning if your belt breaks you are in for some big time money. I would change the water pump like I mentioned while you have it down. You have many more years and miles of driving this car with very few worries. Like I said I would keep it and get that belt and pump changed.:D oldtrig
 
In November we bought a new Honda Accord. It has a bit over 2k miles on it. I'm liking hearing all these high-mileage stories.

Re the battery. WV has an annual safety inspection. When it's in for that I also ask the shop to run a load test on the battery. If the battery is the least bit questionable I replace it.
 
In November we bought a new Honda Accord. It has a bit over 2k miles on it. I'm liking hearing all these high-mileage stories.

Re the battery. WV has an annual safety inspection. When it's in for that I also ask the shop to run a load test on the battery. If the battery is the least bit questionable I replace it.

As a measure of insurance, I keep one of those jump box things charged up and ready to go in my trunk. Even if I have a brand new battery, gotta account for human error like leaving a light on :facepalm:
 
As a measure of insurance, I keep one of those jump box things charged up and ready to go in my trunk. Even if I have a brand new battery, gotta account for human error like leaving a light on :facepalm:

Of course since 2000 cars and pickups tend to come with at least chimes to warn if the lights are on and the engine is off. (even back then it had auto headlights). Now by 2011 cruze also will keep the light on for up to two mins so you can get to a light switch (plus if you push the key fob the lights come on for two mins). I was sort of amazed how much change had happened in the 11 years between vehicles.
With the coming backup cameras and lane change warnings, one does need to consider the value they might add, let alone how now you can take a usb drive and plug it into the infotaniment system and get music you desire.
So the other issue to consider are the new features worth it. (I suggest renting a vehicle like you are considering for a weekend to see)
 
Of course since 2000 cars and pickups tend to come with at least chimes to warn if the lights are on and the engine is off. (even back then it had auto headlights). Now by 2011 cruze also will keep the light on for up to two mins so you can get to a light switch (plus if you push the key fob the lights come on for two mins). I was sort of amazed how much change had happened in the 11 years between vehicles.
With the coming backup cameras and lane change warnings, one does need to consider the value they might add, let alone how now you can take a usb drive and plug it into the infotaniment system and get music you desire.
So the other issue to consider are the new features worth it. (I suggest renting a vehicle like you are considering for a weekend to see)

To my surprise, my 2012 Honda Fit has no warning chime if I accidentally leave my lights on. The manual even states there is now warning. But the car is a bit odd (or maybe me just showing my age) as there is no back hatch release from the inside or keyhole on the passenger side. Also, there is only a visual light but no audio chime when the car is running low on gas.
 
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My '03 GMC pickup has chimes for the outside lights but I found it's not quite idiot-proof. The panel has buttons for the interior lights, which eventually turn off automatically, and the bed light, which does not, right next to each other. So of course I managed to leave the bed light on and was able to get around the engineer's best efforts and run the battery down with that.:facepalm:
 
To my surprise, my 2012 Honda Fit has no warning chime if I accidentally leave my lights on.

This is the kind of thing that would be so easy to not realize when buying a car. I can not imagine why they wouldn't include that very important feature.

We looked at the 2014 Prius and I was surprised to see there were no locks on the glove box.
 
Kept my 1992 Honda Accord for 14 years and 145,000 miles. Most deterioration was done by this thing called a "teenager". When I finally ditched the car, it had a cracked (but not broken) front window, rust in many spots, needed 4 tires, 4 brakes, but still ran great. Repairs far exceeded blue book. My current car is a 2003 Subaru Legacy (we get lots of snow) with 143,000. I am keeping it for the foreseeable future. I still love looking at new cars, though.
 
This is the kind of thing that would be so easy to not realize when buying a car. I can not imagine why they wouldn't include that very important feature.

We looked at the 2014 Prius and I was surprised to see there were no locks on the glove box.

I really do like my car, but one other thing "missing" :mad: which I had expected is a variable intermittent wiper speed. Instead, there is just a variable, but at a constant speed so I find myself having the flick the wiper on and off manually when just a fine mist forms on the windshield.

I did know this before I got the car, but had many of those features on my old, 1996 car.
 
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This is the kind of thing that would be so easy to not realize when buying a car. I can not imagine why they wouldn't include that very important feature.

We looked at the 2014 Prius and I was surprised to see there were no locks on the glove box.

I really do like my car, but one other thing "missing" :mad: which I had expected is a variable intermittent wiper speed. Instead, there is just a variable, but at a constant speed so I find myself having the flick the wiper on and off manually when just a fine mist forms on the windshield.

I did know this before I got the car, but had many of those features on my old, 1996 car.

This drives me nuts on choosing a new car. There are so many little features, and so many ways to do them. And it's not like you can count on a higher model having all the features of a lower model.

My inexpensive little 2000 S40 Volvo has many nice features, but is also lacking an adjustable intermittent wiper! I mean, isn't that like 1970's tech? But it has headlight wipers, which is pretty rare, and a real thermostatically controlled heater/AC, which I would have to move up a model to get in a 2011Honda CR-V (and pay another $3500 for stuff I don't want). Auto on/off for the headlights, while the CR-V has a chime.

I had a cheap rental when my car was in the shop, hated that car, a real low end piece of junk, but it had a nice feature - the radio would stay on until you opened the door to get out! Such a little thing, but nice when you want to catch the end of a song or news, instead of turning the engine off, and switching back to ACC, and then back again when you leave, you just shut it off. When you leave the radio turns off.

Man, I wish they could take the best of all these features and make a list and you could just check which ones a car has or doesn't. Better yet, this should be open source so we could change it ourselves (most of this is computer controlled).

-ERD50
 
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