DIY Projects

As a teenager.... and slave labor....

I changed out 3 clutches... rebuild a carb... did way to many brake jobs without the proper tools (those springs CUT DEEP when they go flying)...

Put on a roof... the first quarter looked 'wavy', but I got the hang of it and the rest looked good.. installed an HVAC system... painted the house... twice... did some wall work... never did the float, but had to do the sanding... and lots of different plumbing items....


As for now... I just fixed a hole in the ceiling due to a water leak... it looks OK, but could not get the 'bumps' (can't remember their name) to look like the old stuff... so it is still visible...

Had some of my wall 'separate' from the ceiling... went to try and 'fix' it... and this big piece of old mortar just dropped out :rant: Seems they did not fit the wall right when it was first built and decided to fill the up to 1/2 inch crack with putty.... and after 20 plus years it decided to break.... I think I did a great job... it looks almost 'real'... now have to spackle (that the word!!)... and then paint... but I now see another crack at a place I can not reach... over two stories high ceiling and wall...

I would rather pay than make the mistake....
 
We've been getting our house ready to sell over the last year. I try to do the things I do well or enjoy doing. Unfortunately, I've had to contract out more projects as the desired listing date approaches. In the last year I have:

Rebuilt all the soffit and fascia and replaced the window trim (lots of reaching over head, climbing up and down ladders.) I had to do it in smaller increments to spare my 50 year old shoulders and legs. I saved a lot of money and it looks great, but never again!

Painted the exterior over several days as I worked around weather issues. Glad I did it myself.

Concrete footing and concrete block work - I happily hired a contractor to handle this one. Concrete work is hard work and time critical. I also lack masonry skills. Just send me the bill.

Wiring garage lights - I'm a good electrician and enjoy wiring.

Interior paint - Forget it! I did the exterior. Running short on time anyway. Send me the bill.

Landscaping - One of my specialties! I just have to rent a tractor with a front end loader to move material around.
 
Having lived in a 1930 vintage house for 33 years I'm more than familiar with DIY projects and I'm more than familiar with the costs involved in doing them.

Lemme tell you, it ain't like HDTV. Here are my rules of thumb.

First, forget the schedule, you ain't gonna get it done in one weekend.

Second, forget doing it on the cheap. It's gonna cost you plenty.

Here's a link to a project that I completed two years ago. The laundry room was the last room in our house to get a complete renovation. I put this one off as long as DW would let me and then it was time to get to work. :bat:

Total cost of this little weekend project was about $3500 and it took better than three months to complete. The cost did not include the appliances. The finish work was the easy part of the job, correcting a lot of problems and arranging the room the way we wanted it was the time consuming and expensive part.

This link is just a bunch of pictures of all the work that went on. For the executive summary just click on the before, during and after pictures. For the cooks tour you can hit them all. :D

Index of /laundry
 
Just from reading the first few paragraphs, it sounds like the author isnt very familiar with or very good at DIY, so a pox on it.

This from the guy thats spent the last six weeks having his house torn apart inside and out and doing about 20% of that work myself. Except for huge projects I do almost all my own work.

If I know a contractor really, really well and I can get a deal where i'm paying for the materials at a discount and am getting the labor at cost then I'll pay a guy to do it.

Otherwise I've found that by the time you call 5 guys, have 3 of them call you back, have 2 actually show up and neither of them when they said they would, get a bid thats either overpriced or intentionally underpriced with the intention of jacking the price up later on when my house is torn up, get the guys to actually show up, eyeball them to make sure they dont cut corners or screw something up, I end up with a mediocre job I could have done myself in less time and with much less hassle.

Costwise, unless the project requires some exotic and expensive tool that I cant rent at home depot, I usually can buy the tools, do the rentals, get the materials delivered if they're big, and still have a HUGE cost savings over paying someone to do it.

In fact, I now have a garage and shed full of tools I bought to do a particular job, saved money on that, and then owned the tool for the rest of its life.

I got a real chuckle out of the author complaining about paying $60 to have three pallets of pavers delivered to their door. For what its worth, I paid the same for delivery of a pallet of 80lb bags of concrete, 140 4x4's and 600 fence boards.

But for times like these when contractors are starving and you can get guys to show up and give a very cheap deal to get work, maybe DIY on something complicated or annoying isnt that great an idea.
 
I went with original flat tappet and used Rotella Oil with a can of EOS I had stashed. Also used the Crane stuff on the lifter bottoms and the lobes of the cam. No problems and she runs great.

I know quite a few guys that have gone to the Rotella. Now there's word floating around that even Rotella is cutting the additives back. Not sure by how much. You can send a sample of used oil to these folks to see how well the oil is holding up. Blackstone Laboratories
I've been using Maxlife and adding one ounce per quart of EOS every oil change for quite a while. So far so good. All stock 350 sb.
 
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Yeah, the zinc thing is a real problem for flat tappet cars. But the tests on the new EOS proved it has about the same zinc amount as the old EOS. I haven't purchased any yet but will get some in a few weeks.

My car still has the original valve springs which after 35 years aren't putting too much tension on the cam so an oil change with a can of EOS should be fine.

If I were building a motor with a high lift and long duration I'd be much more concerned about zinc content. When starting up these race motors for the first time removal of the center valve spring to remove tension is recommended for the first 1/2 hour of running time.
 
Yeah, the zinc thing is a real problem for flat tappet cars. But the tests on the new EOS proved it has about the same zinc amount as the old EOS. I haven't purchased any yet but will get some in a few weeks.

My car still has the original valve springs which after 35 years aren't putting too much tension on the cam so an oil change with a can of EOS should be fine.

If I were building a motor with a high lift and long duration I'd be much more concerned about zinc content. When starting up these race motors for the first time removal of the center valve spring to remove tension is recommended for the first 1/2 hour of running time.

I remember they had to change the label to "assembly lube" for legal reasons not long ago. I think people were adding it to modern cars and it was messing with sensors and cat converters. I saw a VOA on that stuff from Blackstone and it was loaded with additives. They were suggesting that an ounce per quart should be plenty. I figure it shouldn't hurt eventhough like you I still have the mild cam and springs.
 
Anyone into DIY, and if so, what types of projects?
After 25 years, and after having to deal with contractors, we've lost all fear of DIY.

About the only things I haven't tackled are engine replacements, transmission repairs, arc welding, and appendix removal. (But I'm still young and I still have one.) I can do roof repairs but I'd rather let the trained (speedy) professionals have that one.

The blogger did a great job of describing all the surprises, but it's tough to write about a topic like that without coming off whiny. They could've finished on a more upbeat note, too, by describing how they're planning & estimating their next project.

One thing I've learned is that most jobs are more difficult without power tools. Yeah, you can do just about anything with hand tools, but the power gives a lot more convenience & speed.

I've also learned that many projects are worth revisiting. 10 years ago spouse and I put a door in a wall and swore "never again". Today the adjustable frames, jigs, & power tools make it a cinch. Family Handyman keeps us up on all the latest.

That's ok...I'm convinced you have to have ovaries to hang wallpaper. :)
I'd amend that to read "You have to have ovaries to properly supervise hanging wallpaper"...
 
I've found harbor freight is a great place to get tools for DIY projects. They sell fairly low quality tools that likely won't last very long, but cost about 1/3 or 1/2 the cost of the name brand tools you'll get at your local home center. Perfect for tools you'll only use a few times.

But infrequently used tools are also a liability... unless real estate is cheap in your area, the cost of storing them may outweigh their value. When you start building sheds or outbuildings for your tools then you're talking serious money.

Also most tools are so heavy that moving them would cost more than they are worth, so they tend to tie you down geographically.
 
Over the years, I've done about everything one can do in residential [-]destruction[/-] construction: wired, framed, roofed, plumbed, installed ductwork, hung drywall, ...

Still do much of my own work, though some tasks require an extra set (or two) of hands, so I usually farm out those jobs.
 
I've discovered that 98% of "must be assembled/operated by two people" issues can be resolved by a few screws or a roll of tape.
 
UncleHoney, that laundry room looks fantastic. Want to come over and redo my laundry room? :)
 
UncleHoney, that laundry room looks fantastic. Want to come over and redo my laundry room? :)

Thanks Kronk. It only took 33 years to work out the design. :D

Think I'll pass, one was more than enough. Besides DW is making noises about the bath and the kitchen so time going to be tight in the near future. :p
 
Thanks Kronk. It only took 33 years to work out the design. :D

Think I'll pass, one was more than enough. Besides DW is making noises about the bath and the kitchen so time going to be tight in the near future. :p

Drat, and I was hoping. :D Our house is under somewhat benign neglect. We have a long list of projects, but then we don't end up following through because we are too lazy to start calling and getting estimates.

And then the current DIY project of ripping out panelling and a scabbed-on wall, and painting bookcases and the room has been in an incomplete state for over 8 months now. At least my excuse is that I've had a shoulder injury that has kept me from working on it. Somehow, painting hurts more than martial arts or tennis... ;) (It actually does, and by a long shot.)
 
I've discovered that 98% of "must be assembled/operated by two people" issues can be resolved by a few screws or a roll of tape.

True, and finding the 2% share can be a lot of fun. Example: The "two man dirt auger" really can't be operated safely by one person. This is the post-hole digger with the motor mounted on top and the big auger bit. No matter how motivated you are. No matter how much you think the "two man" thang is just something they have to say because of liability issues/personal injury lawyers.
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If you DID try to operate one of these things by yourself, it would work just fine. It would dig much faster than you could ever do it by hand, and you might even congratulate yourself for saving the $20/day more that the one-man auger would have cost. You might say, "man, this is going fast, it's great," and give 'er the gas. Then, you'd hit the first tree root of the day and go for the ride of your life. This would happen repeatedly--spinning you into all manner of things. At one point you could be digging a hole next to the phone pole when you hit a rock and go for a ride. And your hand would get pinned between the handle of the auger and the phone pole. And the throttle lever, on the outside of the handlebars, is pinned down also, jammed into your knuckles and in "full gas" position, urging the beast to squash your hand even more and pinning you to the death machine.

Don't ask me how I know.

The one man-dirt auger, with the engine mounted on a wheeled dolly and the auger bit on a simple lever arm, can safely be operated by a child and offers no comparable excitement
 
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If you DID try to operate one of these things by yourself, it would work just fine. It would dig much faster than you could ever do it by hand, and you might even congratulate yourself for saving the $20/day more that the one-man auger would have cost. You might say, "man, this is going fast, it's great," and give 'er the gas. Then, you'd hit the first tree root of the day and go for the ride of your life.

See also the legendary Hole Hawg, the deadliest hand tool on the planet. And this sucker is supposed to be operated by one person.

Milwaukee-1670-1-rw-63325-17253.jpg


I've had one of these catch and flip me upside-down.

Oh, there's a posthole-digging attachment, too...
 
The one man-dirt auger, with the engine mounted on a wheeled dolly and the auger bit on a simple lever arm, can safely be operated by a child and offers no comparable excitement
Well, heck, where's the fun in that?

Some DIY projects require a Zen or Sun Tzu approach-- "winning" by avoiding the imperative to have to [-]use an auger[/-] tackle that project in the first place.

When I brought home a one-man rental auger I thought I'd just be digging the five holes for the project I had in mind. Silly me, as a marriage veteran I should have known what would happen when spouse saw that tool on a one-day-only rental and imagined all the possibilities...
 
See also the legendary Hole Hawg, the deadliest hand tool on the planet. And this sucker is supposed to be operated by one person.

Milwaukee-1670-1-rw-63325-17253.jpg


I've had one of these catch and flip me upside-down.

Oh, there's a posthole-digging attachment, too...


Chuck up this demon hole cutter in a hole hog and get up on the top rungs of the 6' ladder to bore a few holes for new ceiling boxes in the 100 year old shiplap on the ceiling. MMmmm! Good fun!
 
I just finished my most recent DIY project a few weeks ago. We had a walk-in closet, finished by the house builder with the finest of 2" dowels and a particleboard shelf. The dowel broke and the shelf was sagging badly.

I think we all know what happens next.

Now, I could put in a new dowel, and maybe flip and reinforce the shelf. Of course, I'll have to empty the closet out to get to everything. And once the closet is empty, well, we could patch the wallboard dings and paint. It's been 25 years. And another shelf would be nice...

I wound up ordering a three-wall system custom built from easyclosets.com. Measure carefully. At multiple points... If you tell them a wall is 102 5/8 inches, that piece will measure 102 3/8 inches when hung, so at no point can the opposite walls be closer than that. You'd think that would be obvious, but in fine tract-built homes, the concept of parallel surfaces is actually unknown. We have walls that vary by over an inch in separation front to back or top to bottom.

Once everything was cleared out, well, I could see the closet had that old floorboard. The brown junk that's 1/4" thick and maybe 2" high. I've replaced that with white colonial trim around the house. Time to change it here while I can get to it.

Naturally, any good closet needs a cedar lining. Aromatic red cedar, of course. I wound up paneling what would be the back of the clothing bays on each side of the closet. This took a bit of time. Then I mounted the rail for the suspended closet parts. The rail has to be nice and straight, so all the closet parts align properly. Alas, the walls are not straight. More shims. Lots of shims...

Anyhoo... After several days we had this:
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You'd think that would be obvious, but in fine tract-built homes, the concept of parallel surfaces is actually unknown. We have walls that vary by over an inch in separation front to back or top to bottom.

Nothing is ever level, plumb or square in a house.

I put some linoleum down in an added on laundry room 4 years ago. The room was positively trapezoidal. Six inches of difference between the back wall and the front wall and not a square angle in any of the corners. I had to use a non-patterned lino or it would have been really obvious.
 
I think we all know what happens next.
Looks great.

But I think you got snookered-- your spouse can't possibly be expected to put her raggedy old clothes in such a nice new walk-in closet. You're talkin' a new wardrobe, and I don't mean the furniture definition of the word.

In fact that closet may make the bedroom furniture look pretty crappy too... and if you're going to have people over to the house to look at it, then it may be time to paint & recarpet!

But it looks great. Sorry.
 
But I think you got snookered-- your spouse can't possibly be expected to put her raggedy old clothes in such a nice new walk-in closet. You're talkin' a new wardrobe, and I don't mean the furniture definition of the word.

Heh. I think this is the part where I'm supposed to buy stock in Coldwater Creek, because they're about to have a very good quarter. But that belongs over in Stock Picking.

DIY projects. I bet ya can't do just one... >:D
 
Nice job on the closet system. I remember doing pretty much the same drill. I happenned to be at a store that was clearing out their high quality wireframe closet systems, so I measured and bought one. Little had I realized that the $200 I spent on the system was only the admission ticket. The walls of the closet had never been painted, so might as well do that while I've got everything out. Removing the old closet system left some holes in the drywall, so that required repairs and a few layers of mud. While I'm in there, I should really install a cable track for the wires I run through the closet. Okay, so installing the closet system... required my best stud-finding fu, but otherwise straightforward. But now I discover there is a fatal flaw with this wire frame closet system: The caps that cover the cuts to the wire frames fall off, leaving very sharp, dangerous corners that are easy to cut yourself on while rummaging around in the closet. I spend many hours debating whether to remove the whole system so I can properly abrade the sharp edges down, and in the end experiment with different forms of glue to find one that will actually hold the caps on. What looked like a few-hour project ended up being days of work. And I'm happy that I ended up with a super functional closet.
 

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