Heading to India in January

[athena53]

In summary, India is a very mixed experience. It's not always easy or comfortable--sometimes downright challenging--but you can buy your way out of a lot of the heartache. That said, avoiding the reality isn't something I'd necessarily advise, since the broad spectrum of the human condition in all its starkness is part of the education and adventure.

I'm glad you were able to keep it in perspective. I have to agree on "buying our way out"- after being surrounded by crowds, poverty, pollution, etc. I almost needed the counterpoint of the plushy hotel, the chlorinated pool, the beautiful plantings, etc. at the end of the day and I felt almost guilty about that. Still, those hotels employ people, too.

And it really does raise awareness of life for the average person in a developing country. As a friend who immigrated from India once said, "In India, if you don't work, you don't eat".

 

[tmitchell]

I'm glad you were able to keep it in perspective. I have to agree on "buying our way out"- after being surrounded by crowds, poverty, pollution, etc. I almost needed the counterpoint of the plushy hotel, the chlorinated pool, the beautiful plantings, etc. at the end of the day and I felt almost guilty about that. Still, those hotels employ people, too.

And it really does raise awareness of life for the average person in a developing country. As a friend who immigrated from India once said, "In India, if you don't work, you don't eat".

I definitely get the guilty feelings. The disparity between rich and poor there is just wild. We were very aware of our privilege and the irony of being born on the same planet, with only luck of the draw separating us from quite desperate conditions. As you said, the flip side is contributing to the economy--just not sure how far down it trickles with the caste system hard in place.

 

[Jimmie]

During my work career, I made close to 2 dozen trips to different parts of India. Half of the trips were to Delhi & Mumbai. Lots of good advice here. Stay at 5-star hotels, eat vegetarian, sealed bottled water, avoid swimming pools at hotels, hire a driver from hotel, don't be afraid to get out to explore but be alert to your surroundings (especially local bazaars), it's always hot and humid.

To me, the people I met were best part of my travels. So friendly and accommodating. One hotel I stayed at in Delhi, the checkin clerk noticed my bday on my passport was the following day after checking in. At breakfast, the entire staff surprised me and sang me the traditional happy birthday song. Just an example, but I met so many incredible and interesting people during my travels. The place I loved most was a side trip to Shimla, taking to Kalka Shimla Railway. An experience I'll always remember!

 

[SecondAttempt]

Hi all. Just an update here in case others are interested!

As I mentioned in my first post, I went to India 30 years ago after college. I traveled on a shoestring budget and got quite ill, but it was a remarkable adventure. Things have changed for the better in some ways, notably the poverty floor has come up quite a bit. There is still a TON of serious poverty however, and the doubling of the population is palpable, particularly where the pollution is concerned. I've honestly never been to a place with so much pollution. We were vigilant with our food choices and happily didn't get wind up with Delhi belly at all! But I did get bronchitis on our last day, I'm pretty sure because of the air pollution. So the sanitary concerns aren't just water.

We alternated between mid- and high-range accommodations. The mid-range places were quite comfortable, and the service was excellent overall. However, the high-end spots were a welcome relief from the constant noise, and--in the case of our hotel in Jaipur, for instance--amazingly beautiful. You definitely get what you pay for there.

Uber is easy to use and widespread, and a welcome relief from taxi negotiations. The trains are still an adventure! Air travel was generally good.

There is still magic to be seen in the architecture and culture. The Taj Mahal remains as one of the most beautiful buildings I've ever seen. We got lucky and had 4 bengal tiger sightings in Ranthambore Park. Jaipur has so much wonderful architecture to explore. The whole country is a photographer's dream.

Our best meal was in Mumbai at the Bombay Canteen, which is a bit of a classic apparently. Did not disappoint. Alcohol was expensive across the board and the wines we encountered were pretty average, even at the high end places. Reminded me of Egypt in that regard, so after a couple days I stopped hoping for better and just had a beer here and there. We stuck exclusively to vegetarian meals, which overall were quite good.

In summary, India is a very mixed experience. It's not always easy or comfortable--sometimes downright challenging--but you can buy your way out of a lot of the heartache. That said, avoiding the reality isn't something I'd necessarily advise, since the broad spectrum of the human condition in all its starkness is part of the education and adventure.

I very much appreciate this report. As I mentioned previously, I was in India for work about 27 years ago so around the time you were. At the time I had no desire to go back, not because it was a bad experience, just that there was little I wanted to see that would make it worth it.

When I was there we went to a club where Winston Churchill had been a member. Our group of about 20 was in a private dining room. The meal was family style but each dish was about $1-$3 and a beer was $1 for a bottled pint. So at least then, alcohol was cheap.

 

[SecondAttempt]

During my work career, I made close to 2 dozen trips to different parts of India. Half of the trips were to Delhi & Mumbai. Lots of good advice here. Stay at 5-star hotels, eat vegetarian, sealed bottled water, avoid swimming pools at hotels, hire a driver from hotel, don't be afraid to get out to explore but be alert to your surroundings (especially local bazaars), it's always hot and humid.

To me, the people I met were best part of my travels. So friendly and accommodating. One hotel I stayed at in Delhi, the checkin clerk noticed my bday on my passport was the following day after checking in. At breakfast, the entire staff surprised me and sang me the traditional happy birthday song. Just an example, but I met so many incredible and interesting people during my travels. The place I loved most was a side trip to Shimla, taking to Kalka Shimla Railway. An experience I'll always remember!

I made a couple of posts that could be taken as anti-India or anti-Indian. Far from it. In my career I have had many Indian colleagues and have gotten along well with all of them and shared cultural experiences. I have no idea what India is like now.

 

[glasswave]

Last time I went was 30 years ago! It was remarkable but I got really sick and ended up in the hospital for a day. Swore I’d never go back.

Now I’m older and wiser and interested to see the changes. Anyone been there recently? Tips appreciated. Healthcare is cheap there—do we need supplemental insurance?

We’ll be mostly in the Golden Triangle, then two nights in Mumbai. Favorite spots? Restaurants?

I'd make some time for one of the hill stations like Shimla, or the Himalaya proper, Parvati or Manali.

Chandaghar is quite nice as well.



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