Just invested heavily in Treasury Notes

cefdata.com will give you all the info you need. I pay particular attention to discount or premium to NAV, if the fund is earning enough to cover its distribution and earnings direction.

Thanks. So the discount is 6.4% but I really don't know if that's good or bad. Its cousin PTY has a discount of 28% so I'm assuming that's not as good.

PDI has 100% leverage and 0% "structural" leverage but again Im not sure of its importance compared to PTY which has 84% and 15% respectively.

Right now all I'm going by is that its run by Pimco which is a reputable outfit and the fact that they've paid reliably since inception.
 
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Thanks. So the discount is 6.4% but I really don't know if that's good or bad. Its cousin PTY has a discount of 28% so I'm assuming that's not as good.

PDI has 100% leverage and 0% "structural" leverage but again Im not sure of its importance compared to PTY which has 84% and 15% respectively.

Right now all I'm going by is that its run by Pimco which is a reputable outfit and the fact that they've paid reliably since inception.

Fidelity is reporting a .55% premium and the average premium is over 7% so it’s trading in a less expensive position than it has historically, but it’s only earning 86% of its distributions and the trend is downward. I think there has been talk of a dividend cut and that is why the premium has decreased.
 
Fidelity is reporting a .55% premium and the average premium is over 7% so it’s trading in a less expensive position than it has historically, but it’s only earning 86% of its distributions and the trend is downward. I think there has been talk of a dividend cut and that is why the premium has decreased.

Got it! Thanks. This is extremely helpful.

Find it interesting that PTY earnings is 102% of distribution yet has a much higher discount. A lot to digest.
 
I’ve owned PDI off and on. The current premium seems to be 6.3%, which is about average for the past year. Be sure to look at the UNII report on PIMCO’s website. In past years, hefty UNII balances were distributed at year-end; this year, there’s significant ROC. Coverage ratios are pretty bad. Ivascyn and Murata are great managers, but PDI nevertheless performed terribly over the past three years. Bill Gross was a great manager, until he wasn’t.
 
Marko that is a 28% Premium on PTY. the share price is $13.68 and nav is 10.67.
 
Premium and discount are important concepts to understand on CEFs.
 
Thoughts, learning a lot this year

I'd say you're on the right track. I also feel a little hesitant pulling the "buy" trigger. We sold a 400K multi unit in January and will close on the sale of another of our multi unit apartment buildings THIS coming January so I'm having a ball "laddering". I'm not doing it quite as organized as I'd like, a little piecemeal but we have enough that we'll be ok if my laddering timing is a little amiss. Some thoughts that might add ot your toolbox, and I'd also welcome comments on my strategy.

1. I think with corporates, one solution is to use one of the two "bulletshare" type ETFs available. Diversified collection of IGB's with specific maturity. A lot has been said on this forum about this solution, and one thing that stands out is that they aren't always great to keep through the final year of their term. The last year before maturity they redeem various bonds throughout the year, so they stop earning. Although the ETF for 2028 for example might have a yield to worst of 6.2%, you'll get way less the final year, so might be a good strategy to add a year to these. i.e. if you're laddering for 2028, you might use the bulletshare ETF maturing in 2029 to satisfy 2028's "rung".

2. REINVESTMENT RISK! Interest rates are great right now, especially short term, but as you receive the interest...where will it go if you don't need it? What if rates go back down to 2-3%. How that 200K or so in 7 year TBONDS isn't such a great deal. So this will hinge on whether or not you need the interest along the way. Solution 1: Buy TIPs that have a super LOW coupon rate so that the appreciation you get is all inflation and appreciation. For example when you buy a 3 year TIP you are not really buying a 3 year bond, you're buying maybe a 20 year bond with 3 years to go. You can pick and choose. If you need the money along the way, then high coupon is good but if you are holding to maturity and won't need the interest, LOWEST coupon might be the answer. It sort of behaves like a "zero coupon" (We might think of super low yielding TIPs as "near zero coupon bonds". Whcih brings me to the next similar point. I'm thinking to avoid reinvestment risk, instead of a 3,4,5,7 year tBond, buy the STRIPs instead. Tiny bit more yield, NO reinvestment risk. Trade off is NO interest along the way, more sensitive to interest rate moves. I'm actually going to buy a 50K 20 year zero ytw around 5% JUST as a "can't lose" proposition. (Cost about 20K, if rates dive, big cap gain, if they plunge, still get my 50K in 20 years)

3. What about GSE's? I've got one FHLB 10 year around 6% if I remember right. They seem to have less of inverted yield curve (not much but a little), and are supposedly only incrementally more risky than treasuries, WAY less risky than corporates. Thoughts?? I almost think, "Why even touch treasuries in lieu of agency bonds? I'd love some thoughts on this though.

4. If I sound like I know what I'm talking about, please don't be fooled. I'm JUST wrapping my mind around this stuff, so please give me the proverbial face punch if I need it and set me straight.
 
REINVESTMENT RISK! Interest rates are great right now, especially short term, but as you receive the interest...where will it go if you don't need it? What if rates go back down to 2-3%. How that 200K or so in 7 year TBONDS isn't such a great deal.

We are locked in at 4.5% for 10 years no matter what interest rates do in the future. We still have a mortgage and one car note so whatever we don’t need for bills will go to pay off those. We also could feed our S&P 500 account. We are not looking to get rich. We just want to live comfortably.
 
We are locked in at 4.5% for 10 years no matter what interest rates do in the future. We still have a mortgage and one car note so whatever we don’t need for bills will go to pay off those. We also could feed our S&P 500 account. We are not looking to get rich. We just want to live comfortably.

Right. The rate is locked in, but it's not like a CD. The note will throw off interest which gets deposited to your account (not reinvested). Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
 
One comment about GSE’s or agency bonds. Usually within 6 - 12 months of issue date they become callable. Because of this they rarely trade much above par, mostly just below par. So if rates drop, they won’t see much appreciation, they may be called and getting a bid should you want to sell prior to maturity is problematic. The coupons are almost teaser rates. If called, you will have reinvestment risk, because rates likely have dropped.
A current example in my own portfolio: a 7% coupon agency trades at $100.15 - a 15 cent premium for a really nice coupon. Big deal. A similar non callable corporate trades at $112 and it has bids so I could flip it on Monday or enjoy that big coupon for 10 more years.
One more comment. Rates are dropping like a lead ballon. Don’t wait too long to take advantage of them. There are still a few nice, non callable bonds out there.
 
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Right. The rate is locked in, but it's not like a CD. The note will throw off interest which gets deposited to your account (not reinvested). Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

CDs bought direct may reinvest the interest and compound. Secondary market CDs will throw off cash without reinvestment.
Folks need to decide are they buying fixed income for income or for mainly capital preservation.
If you want income, buy a good coupon.
If you want capital preservation first with some growth, buy below par bonds and hold to maturity. They are less likely to be called.
 
SO just did a MYGA ladder with a 1035 on a fixed indexed annuity that came out of the penalty phase. The annuity average 2.7% per year for 10 years. She now has a 3,4,and 5 year MYGA ladder paying from 5.75% to 6.15% with ability to WD 10% per year or interest. She is on the ACA and needed to keep this money tax deferred for several years.
 
Thank you

Thank you for the reminder about interest rates going down, I did notice that the zero coupon 20-year Bond I was looking at last week will now cost me 20 grand instead of 18 Grand. I've been going slow because this is new, but I may need to speed up pretty quickly!
 
Thanks for reminding me about the secondary brokered cds. I do have one but it's only a 9 or 10 months so reinvestment is not a concern, but I will keep that in mind if I'm eyeballing any longer firm issues.
 
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