Photographer's Corner - equipment

[photoguy]

I may not be the best person to ask about adapted performance as I've only had the sony for a few days. Plus my AF needs are relatively modest and I got by using the center point on a 5d2 for many years.

So far my canon lenses seem fully functional with AF and IS. I'm just starting to pour over my pictures and haven't noticed a greater incidence of rejects due to focusing errors or bad IS. AF speed seems comparable.

One thing I've found is that using manual focus (i.e. my TS lenses) is way easier / more convenient on the sony. Focus peaking makes it easy to use hyperfocal distances and the EVF has magnification (I could never focus using the optical viewfinder on my canon). For me, this would make MF lenses practical even for general handheld shooting.

My adapter has been relatively problem free (only once or twice I had to remount a lens) but others have reported more problems. This should be treated like using a beta product and any lens should be very well tested before a critical shoot.

So far I'm happy enough with the sony that I plan to sell all my canon lenses (except the TS) and use native to cover perhaps 16mm-200mm (not because the adapted performance is bad, but because I don't like fiddling with an adapter).

 

[UpAnchor]

I am a complete armature!

That's a shocking revelation.

But you can't say his comment has no bearing...

 

[explanade]

I may not be the best person to ask about adapted performance as I've only had the sony for a few days. Plus my AF needs are relatively modest and I got by using the center point on a 5d2 for many years.

So far my canon lenses seem fully functional with AF and IS. I'm just starting to pour over my pictures and haven't noticed a greater incidence of rejects due to focusing errors or bad IS. AF speed seems comparable.

One thing I've found is that using manual focus (i.e. my TS lenses) is way easier / more convenient on the sony. Focus peaking makes it easy to use hyperfocal distances and the EVF has magnification (I could never focus using the optical viewfinder on my canon). For me, this would make MF lenses practical even for general handheld shooting.

My adapter has been relatively problem free (only once or twice I had to remount a lens) but others have reported more problems. This should be treated like using a beta product and any lens should be very well tested before a critical shoot.

So far I'm happy enough with the sony that I plan to sell all my canon lenses (except the TS) and use native to cover perhaps 16mm-200mm (not because the adapted performance is bad, but because I don't like fiddling with an adapter).

How balanced is it with the Canon full frame lens on that small mirror less body?

Do the lens spfeel way heavier and larger than they would on the Canon body?

 

[Chuckanut]

I would love a camera with fast accurate autofocus, aperture, shutter, and manual modes ONLY, don't use most of the fancy features. Oh yeah and gimme a mirror image so I can use it with my left hand
Meanwhile I'm enjoying my OMD-EM1.

It is a great system. I have an older OMD EM5 and it is so nice to be able to carry fast, small light lenses and not have to lug around my old DSLR system. Great enlargements also. 4/3 is plenty good.

 

[photoguy]

How balanced is it with the Canon full frame lens on that small mirror less body?

It's not that great if you are handholding but still manageable. The body itself is small enough that I can only wrap three fingers around the grip and my pinky is left hanging. However adding an l-bracket extends the vertical height just enough for my pinky and improves the grip substantially.

Do the lens spfeel way heavier and larger than they would on the Canon body?

Not really. But it does look very lopsided.

The one surprising feature about the camera is the eye detection autofocus. When I first heard about it, I thought it was a great idea but was somewhat skeptical if it would work well. After shooting pics of my niece/nephew I'm now convinced that it is a killer feature and I've been able to make images that I would have no hope on a DSLR. E.g. my niece is coming out of a slide tube at the play ground and I nail focus on her eyeball with the lens wide open (55mm prime at f/2). Even on static subjects DOF is so slim that focus/recompose often does not work.

 

[Meadbh]

This article is useful for LBYMs who only want to buy what they will use.

No, you don't need a DSLR camera for Christmas

https://fstoppers.com/favorites/no-you-dont-need-dslr-camera-christmas-100470

 

[DrRoy]

What equipment do you carry?

I am a pretty serious (amateur) landscape photographer and my stuff has evolved over the years. I run into plenty of other people with DSLRs in places like the national parks but have not so far found anyone with the arrangement that I have, and wanted to see if anyone else has a similar plan.

Decades ago I had a Konica TC film camera with a 28-85 zoom, a 200 mm, and a 2X teleconverter, so I could go from 28 mm to 400 mm by swapping the lens kit around. That covered a good range but took time between set-ups, sometimes cost getting shot, and allowed dirt to get into the camera.

When I went serious digital in 2008, I got a Canon 50D with a Tamron 18-270 VC zoom. With an APS-C sensor this is equal to 28-430 mm and covers the wide focal range with one lens, so no issues with time or dirt during lens changing. I know that the optical quality is not the best with superzooms but was not trying to print billboards and was happy with the results.

The next step was to use a tripod to allow for lower ISO, smaller aperture for depth of field, and/or slow speeds for motion blur. This created a new time related issue in that the settings I liked for maximum sharpness on the tripod were different than those for hand held shots - VC on or off, mirror lockup, shutter delay, manual or auto focus, and ISO. It was a bit of a pain to have to change all those settings. I also found that even with the lens full wide, I was often merging multiple shots in a panorama to create the image I wanted in Photoshop, and this was sometimes very time consuming to get it the way I wanted and occasionally the program could not get the pano to work.

My solution was to add a Canon 6D (full frame sensor) with the even wider Canon 16-35 mm LII lens. This goes about 50% wider than the other setup. Also, I keep the 6D always set up for the tripod, and the other camera always set up for hand held shooting. The downside is that I have to carry two cameras, but I am always ready for any situation. Also, since my shots are split between two cameras, the batteries and memory cards last longer.

Is anyone else doing this, or am I alone? What do you think of my plan?

 

[stepford]

Is anyone else doing this, or am I alone? What do you think of my plan?

I've played a variation of this game, using a full frame body with a 16-35 for landscape shooting and a crop body with one or another telephoto for wildlife. This works well enough when I'm vehicle based, but I'm finding that hiking with this much gear is becoming increasingly intolerable as I get older.

I know a number of photographers who leave their cameras attached to tripods when out shooting, but usually this is for avoiding startling one's quarry when birding. For landscape I don't mind fiddling with tripod attachment each time. For that sort of shooting I actually prefer a setup that will make me slow down and think about composition rather than go willy nilly clickety click and select the best shot in post as I would for wildlife.

 

[Ronstar]

Great shot, Dr. Roy! I like your plan. I have something similar. I have a Nikon 5200 crop sensor that I normally use with 10-24 or 35 prime. Also have a Nikon 610 full frame that I use 24-85 or 70 -300 or very seldom 150-600. I like the flexibility that having 2 cameras provides. Like you, I don't like to change lenses, settings.

 

[ItDontMeanAThing]

This created a new time related issue in that the settings I liked for maximum sharpness on the tripod were different than those for hand held shots - VC on or off, mirror lockup, shutter delay, manual or auto focus, and ISO. It was a bit of a pain to have to change all those settings.

Have you tried registering those preferences as a User Setting? I'm not a 6D owner, but I use my camera's user settings and this page says it's possible with the 6D: How to Register Canon EOS 6D User Settings - For Dummies

 

[photoguy]

The next step was to use a tripod to allow for lower ISO, smaller aperture for depth of field, and/or slow speeds for motion blur. This created a new time related issue in that the settings I liked for maximum sharpness on the tripod were different than those for hand held shots - VC on or off, mirror lockup, shutter delay, manual or auto focus, and ISO. It was a bit of a pain to have to change all those settings.

Have you looked into custom shooting modes? I think the Canon 6D has this functionality and should allow you to switch quickly between landscape / action settings.

I also found that even with the lens full wide, I was often merging multiple shots in a panorama to create the image I wanted in Photoshop, and this was sometimes very time consuming to get it the way I wanted and occasionally the program could not get the pano to work.

Are you stitching to get a panoramic aspect ratio? or to get more megapixels?

I like to make panos and my suggestions here would be (1) explore programs other than photoshop which are often better at stitching. Options to look at include Autopano Pro and PT GUI. (2) work on your pano technique, whether you are shooting handheld or on tripod. Understand when your software is likely to have issues stitching and compensate. (3) Use a panorama head to eliminate parallax errors. With a good head, even relatively poor stitching programs will do well. Using a pano head is essential when you have close objects in the composition.

My solution was to add a Canon 6D (full frame sensor) with the even wider Canon 16-35 mm LII lens. This goes about 50% wider than the other setup. Also, I keep the 6D always set up for the tripod, and the other camera always set up for hand held shooting. The downside is that I have to carry two cameras, but I am always ready for any situation. Also, since my shots are split between two cameras, the batteries and memory cards last longer.

I think many photographers take two bodies into the field to have a backup and to avoid changing lenses. Personally I've never carried two DSLRs at once due to the weight penalty and I'm fine with a single camera. But I only shoot wildlife opportunistically.

I've since changed to a mirrorless system and I'll probably add/carry an extra APS-C body.

Is anyone else doing this, or am I alone? What do you think of my plan?

Seems like a fine plan.

 

[DrRoy]

I still do the slowing down thing with the tripod - composing, zooming, manual focus, aperture, adjust the polarizer. BYW, I just replaced the Canon 50D with a Nikon D7200/Nikkor 18-200 VRII. I found that the 50D gave me some dynamic range issues and the glass should be a little better. It's also nice to have new stuff, and I like how I don't need to troll as many menus to make adjustments vs. the 50D.

 

[ggbutcher]

My current setup is a Nikon D7000 with the 18-200 zoom I used to use on my D50. My for-fun shooting is (are?) trains, a rather dusty environment so I strive to avoid lens-switching. I bought the D7000 on closeout with the main goal being to get 2 stops of dynamic range over the D50, and it's done that well. However, my 18-200 now shows some of its superzoom warts, so I may move to the 18-140 and put the 18-200 back on the D50 for my wife. You might spend some time exploring the correction options for that lens, in-camera and in post-process; on the D7200 I'd imagine the lack of sharpness to be more noticeable. On the D50 shooting to JPEG, I'd just crank the in-camera sharpening to max, and that made a huge difference on that camera-lens combination. I'm still messing with that in the D7000, but I'm also moving to more RAW workflow, so the selection of correction tools is larger.

This might be thinking I developed in the olden days of film, but I find myself using particular focal lengths more for the perspective than 'reach'. If I want a compressed perspective, I rack the zoom in and crop with my feet; if I want distorted perspective I do the same thing at the other end of the lens' focal range. It'd be nice to have 16mm sometime, but not enough to go shopping, and my limited experimentation (at Wal-mart, handling the leashed cameras) leads me to think 140 vs 200 is not a big deal for my purposes.

If I shot landscapes, I'd probably get a fixed 16mm (oh, and start dreaming of full-frame, again...); if I shot wildlife or sports, I'd be looking at a really long tele-zoom. In any of these, I'd still be giving heavy consideration to not having to switch lenses in the field.

 

[Sunset]

Very nice photo.

I appreciate the time and effort you take doing these.

I used to carry around a camera bag in the film days that weighed 20-25 lbs.
It became such a bother that I stopped bringing it and missed lots of photo ops.

So I joined the dark side, and now carry around a "pocket" digital camera nearly everywhere rather than have a great setup sitting back at home.

 

[folivier]

Tripods are very handy. Just remember you can only have 2 of the following 3 choices: lightweight, steady, cheap.
After trying to beat the above I bought a Gitzo 1542T carbon fiber and absolutely love it!

 

[explanade]

Supposedly Magic Lantern firmware for Canon DSLRs allow programmability.

With declining DSLR sales, you'd think Canon and Nikon would try to improve the usability of the cameras, like have an API so phone apps. can save macros and you can make wholesale changes with a couple of taps.

 

[Walt34]

So I joined the dark side, and now carry around a "pocket" digital camera nearly everywhere rather than have a great setup sitting back at home.

It is written that "The best camera is the one you have with you".

Since I only have the one DSLR (Nikon D7000) that's the one I use. But the backpack bag is stuffed and getting to be a pain to lug around so I'm thinking of taking out the least-used lenses and leaving those at home. Of course that's when I'll need them.

 

[folivier]

I hate it when a new firmware update loses all of your custom settings....

 

[DrRoy]

Have you tried registering those preferences as a User Setting?

Most of the changes I make from tripod to hand are not saved in a user setting so it is not a lot of help.

Are you stitching to get a panoramic aspect ratio? or to get more megapixels?

I stitch for the content of the scene that I want to have in the image.

However, my 18-200 now shows some of its superzoom warts, so I may move to the 18-140 and put the 18-200 back on the D50 for my wife. You might spend some time exploring the correction options for that lens, in-camera and in post-process; on the D7200 I'd imagine the lack of sharpness to be more noticeable.

I (and lately my wife also) shoot everything raw and I can tweak the issues in Photoshop as needed.

Use a panorama head to eliminate parallax errors. With a good head, even relatively poor stitching programs will do well. Using a pano head is essential when you have close objects in the composition.

That is an area where I have decided to opt for simplicity and lighter weight. It is not a common problem, and I just make do with what I am willing to carry.

 

[folivier]

DrRoy, isn't it fun creeping out as far as you can to take that pic of Horseshoe Bend?
Lots of neat photo ops around Page.

 

[Ronstar]

Great pano, Dr. Roy. That's not an easy perch to take photos from. But it is fun, though.

 

[frayne]

I think I saw that same pano in a Lightroom lesson at one time.

 

[Chuckanut]

Notice to eye-fi card users: it looks like support for many of them will be ending soon:

Eye-Fi Deprecation Coming Soon | DSLRBodies | Thom Hogan

Eye-Fi cards are about to make a transition that you need to be aware of (most recent Nikon DSLRs support Eye-Fi cards directly). Short version: if your Eye-Fi card isn’t a Mobi or Mobi Pro one, support for it will end “no later than September 16, 2016” according to Eye-Fi.

 

[explanade]

A lot of DSLRs have Wifi now. I have it on my D750 but have never turned it on.

Downloaded their app. but never really opened it either.

Guess if I used a tripod more ...

 

[Georgialivin]

I just downloaded the app and started using wifi a month or so ago on my 6D. It's pretty cool to be able to take a photo right off the camera and send it or share it to social media. Or to look at your photos on a larger screen. I don't love the remote shooting, it seems tough to get it to focus.


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