Set me straight on annuities and why are they so bad

tim0476

Dryer sheet wannabe
Joined
Apr 26, 2024
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Virginia
Note: If you don't read the entire post, take a look at the attached spreadsheet that illustrates two scenarios. 1) $750K initial investment (now) in a fixed index annuity with an income rider providing a guaranteed minimum payment of $84369 starting in 7 years. 2) Investment of $750K now earning 5% interest annually and withdraws of $84369 starting in 7 years. Notice how #2 runs out by the time I am 83 (7 yrs shy of end of plan). I need to earn >6% in the #2 scenario to make it to the end. This is just an illustration using 25% of the portfolio for the annuity. Now read on for more detail. Appreciate any comments.

Most of us are not fortunate enough nowadays for have a pension, and social security will not cover all of our expenses. Creating more guaranteed income (which a fixed index annuity can do with an income rider), is a way to eliminate some risk and deal with sequence of returns and bad timing. Annuities are not investments really, they are insurance policies.

I am not in any way a financial advisor. Just a dude with decent retirement savings trying to figure out how to make things work in retirement. You can talk all you want about bucket strategies, investing on your own, getting more return, but when you need to rely on that nest egg to fill a gap between Social Security and expenses, you are taking a lot of risk and may be in for some sleepless nights.

I created a simple spreadsheet for myself to cover 30 yrs in retirement for me and my spouse. Typical columns like inflation adjusted expenses (3%), medical expenses, social security at 70, savings balance, savings withdraws, taxes etc. I ran two scenarios, one with 25% of my starting portfolio used to purchase a fixed index annuity w/ income rider, and one with no annuity. The "no annuity" scenario only started to look more advantageous when I assumed an annual rate of return of 8% or higher on investment savings. Anything less than 8%, the with annuity scenario always looked better in terms of more assets at the end of plan and a lower withdraw rate from savings each year. By the way, I assumed the minimum payment withdraw from the income rider in the scenario. So, if any average investor foolishly assumes they can get 8% or higher without taking a lot of risk, and not hit bad timing and sequence of returns problems, then have at it.

That all said, I personally don't think it is ever a good idea to put all of your savings into an annuity. But, unless you are very wealthy, a portion may make sense. Shoot this down if you want to, but my spreadsheet is just simple math, it does not lie.
 

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"fixed index annuity" What is this? Fixed or indexed?
 
Details! It would help if OP names the specific annuity product used to model the spreadsheet. Didn’t look at the charts but does it specify single life or survivor benefit and how much ? Even members that hate annuities generally acknowledge they can be useful for a fraction of the nestegg to generate safe income.
 
What I learned about annuities:
1. There are two types of annuities that are generally considered a good deal. The salesman gets a 1% or 2% commission once: MYGA and SPIA.
2. Rule of thumb is to invest no more than 25% of your assets in an annuity.
3. Every rider you add an annuity costs more money and makes the deal less attractive.
4. Company Annuity ratings matter a lot. The annuities are guaranteed by your state insurance commission are they range from 100K to 250K if your annuity company goes bankrupt.
5. States allow the company a long time to make good on the annuity if the company fails - sometimes up to 5 years. Compare this time frame to a failed bank or credit union, where your money is refunded in a few days.
6. Surrender charges start at about 7% and typically go for 5 years, if you want to back out of the annuity contract.
7. Annuity contracts can be complicated.
 
There is a type of annuity called Fixed Index Annuity. The specific FIA I am F&G Safe Income Advantage or NationWide New Heights. It does not really matter who the insurer is or even the specific product because all the FIAs work basically the same way. I have illustrated what the product does. It is joint life for me and my spouse.
 
Note: If you don't read the entire post, take a look at the attached spreadsheet that illustrates two scenarios. 1) $750K initial investment (now) in a fixed index annuity with an income rider providing a guaranteed minimum payment of $84369 starting in 7 years. 2) Investment of $750K now earning 5% interest annually and withdraws of $84369 starting in 7 years. Notice how #2 runs out by the time I am 83 (7 yrs shy of end of plan). I need to earn >6% in the #2 scenario to make it to the end. This is just an illustration using 25% of the portfolio for the annuity. Now read on for more detail. Appreciate any comments.

Most of us are not fortunate enough nowadays for have a pension, and social security will not cover all of our expenses. Creating more guaranteed income (which a fixed index annuity can do with an income rider), is a way to eliminate some risk and deal with sequence of returns and bad timing. Annuities are not investments really, they are insurance policies.

I am not in any way a financial advisor. Just a dude with decent retirement savings trying to figure out how to make things work in retirement. You can talk all you want about bucket strategies, investing on your own, getting more return, but when you need to rely on that nest egg to fill a gap between Social Security and expenses, you are taking a lot of risk and may be in for some sleepless nights.

I created a simple spreadsheet for myself to cover 30 yrs in retirement for me and my spouse. Typical columns like inflation adjusted expenses (3%), medical expenses, social security at 70, savings balance, savings withdraws, taxes etc. I ran two scenarios, one with 25% of my starting portfolio used to purchase a fixed index annuity w/ income rider, and one with no annuity. The "no annuity" scenario only started to look more advantageous when I assumed an annual rate of return of 8% or higher on investment savings. Anything less than 8%, the with annuity scenario always looked better in terms of more assets at the end of plan and a lower withdraw rate from savings each year. By the way, I assumed the minimum payment withdraw from the income rider in the scenario. So, if any average investor foolishly assumes they can get 8% or higher without taking a lot of risk, and not hit bad timing and sequence of returns problems, then have at it.

That all said, I personally don't think it is ever a good idea to put all of your savings into an annuity. But, unless you are very wealthy, a portion may make sense. Shoot this down if you want to, but my spreadsheet is just simple math, it does not lie.
A needlessly confrontational tone straight out of the box, don't you think? We're all friends here.
 
There's an existing thread for MYGA annuities here:


I just posted about an Oceanview MYGA 6 year 5.85% annuity I'm currently trying to get, if anyone has any feedback on that or my concerns.
 
I disagree that the insurer behind the product does not matter but I would trust the two companies OP mentioned. Checkout the scam suffered by folks that bought annuities from Colorado Bankers Life. There are some onerous loopholes that attract fraudsters to insurance products. Commissioned sales folks push products on folks that do not understand what they are buying. Heck, some of these are so complicated I doubt that any one individual lawyer at the issuing company knows them inside and out. My credit union FA pitched one to me that had an option to choose a proprietary index that was subject to change. No thanks. I do have a few MYGAs from a tiny insurer that is A rated and I would be OK going down to a B rated insurer
 
Is the guaranteed minimum payment of $84k based on hypothetical market returns (i.e. age factors are guaranteed but the investment base is not)? I ran your numbers thru immediateannuities.com and was quoted a payment of $67k per year. I find it hard to believe a high commission annuity product could truly guarantee a higher payment.
 
Oh for sure, the insurer does matter. Did not mean to imply otherwise. The quote of $84K was from two ilustrations both with joint survivorship. One for my wife ($500K who is 61 now) and one for me ($250K age 58). We would start payments in 8 years. The $84K is the combined number from the two, and it is the absolute minimum I would receive no matter what. They were provided to me by a financial advisor. This is for the F&G product. How did you come up with $67K?
 
No way these returns are guaranteed. Typical indexed annuities give you some weird combination of some market index minus dividends, capped at a low gain in any given year. But markets tend to be very jumpy, with large moves in a couple of years and down or no gain in others, so you never get those juicy returns you thought you were promised. Worse, typically the insurance company can change formulas at their pleasure after you make the deal.

This is just another near scam played on the unwary, a high commission piece of crud that will please the salesperson and disappoint you. If you need an SPIA or MYGA, try stantheannuityman.com or immediateannuities.com.

Note that even mild inflation over long periods of time kills the value of annuities and nominal bonds. The very best annuity is your social security since it is inflation adjusted, so don't even think of buying a private annuity until you've maximized that, try opensocialsecurity.com and scroll to the bottom and click on various combination of claim dates to see the impacts.

Although they only go out for 30 years, you can get inflation protection by buying a ladder of TIPS, see tipsladder.com. They currently yield over 2% above inflation.
 
Are annuity distributions taxed as ordinary income?
Yes, but the interest isn't taxed until you draw. If it's a non-systematic withdrawal, then it's interest first, then principal. That's the main attraction for me. I'm trying to lower my income for several years while interest rates are high. Mine is non-qualified.
 
Maybe it’s just me but WOW, you really obscured how you got $84k/yr on $750k initially. Not saying it was intentional. It does make sense to do it the way you did but it’s a case of everybody’s situation is unique.
The quote of $84K was from two ilustrations both with joint survivorship. One for my wife ($500K who is 61 now) and one for me ($250K age 58). We would start payments in 8 years. The $84K is the combined number from the two, and it is the absolute minimum I would receive no matter what. They were provided to me by a financial advisor. This is for the F&G product. How did you come up with $67K?
 
Oh for sure, the insurer does matter. Did not mean to imply otherwise. The quote of $84K was from two ilustrations both with joint survivorship. One for my wife ($500K who is 61 now) and one for me ($250K age 58). We would start payments in 8 years. The $84K is the combined number from the two, and it is the absolute minimum I would receive no matter what. They were provided to me by a financial advisor. This is for the F&G product. How did you come up with $67K?
I plugged in the following in in immediateannuities.com: amount to invest 750k, start in 7 years for a 59 year-old male and a 62 year-old female for a joint-life annuity.

I suspect your financial advisor works for the insurance company or sells insurance and is well trained in the art of confusion. I very much doubt the number is the "absolute minimum" but the FA gave you the impression it is. What isn't in doubt is the FA is dreaming of a Hawaiian vacation every year for the next seven years but don't worry you don't pay their commission the insurance company does.
 
Man, you guys are confusing the heck out of me. I have the quotes, and I will not sign anything without having a lawyer or someone look at this. The person who said "No way these returns are guaranteed", are you sure you know what you are talking about? I see it in the contract and it is part of the income rider. Do you know what that is? The person who made that statement, do you know what an income rider is? And yes, I do know this is level income of the years. But again, I say what I said at the beginning, look at the spreadsheet with the math. Math does not lie. Keep in mind annuities are paying more now due to higher interest rates.

That said, this is the conversation I was looking for. So, thank you. If my FA is trying to rip me off, then that is criminal because the contract says $84K is the minimum I can get.

So, you guys are telling me that a company like F&G, highly rated, is lying to me on the contract. Forget the FA, I have the quote from F&G.
 
So, if we assume the $84K annually is correct and not a scam, as some of you say, can we discuss the simple math associated with that and go back to the fact that I need to make >6% each year on the $750K in order to make the non-annuity scenario more advantageous. 6% is pretty high I think to bank on.

Noone seems to be addressing this simple comment. I will reiterate that I am no way a financial expert, which is the reason I came here in the first place. You guys are helping me and making me think. We all need to help each other, right?
 
There is a type of annuity called Fixed Index Annuity. The specific FIA I am F&G Safe Income Advantage or NationWide New Heights. It does not really matter who the insurer is or even the specific product because all the FIAs work basically the same way. I have illustrated what the product does. It is joint life for me and my spouse.
Yes, these used to be called equity indexed annuities until the SEC threatened to regulate them as an investment product and then to avoid SEC oversight the product morphed into "fixed index" annuities. Typically, the minimum guaranteed values start off at 90% of premium and grow at 3%. The account value grows based on an index like the S&P 500 index subject to a participation rate and annual cap

You are probably looking at an illustration and the illustrated values are not guaranteed. What you want to look at are the guaranteed values and then something in between the guaranteed values and the illustrated values.
 
Man, you guys are confusing the heck out of me. I have the quotes, and I will not sign anything without having a lawyer or someone look at this. The person who said "No way these returns are guaranteed", are you sure you know what you are talking about? I see it in the contract and it is part of the income rider. Do you know what that is? The person who made that statement, do you know what an income rider is? And yes, I do know this is level income of the years. But again, I say what I said at the beginning, look at the spreadsheet with the math. Math does not lie. Keep in mind annuities are paying more now due to higher interest rates.

That said, this is the conversation I was looking for. So, thank you. If my FA is trying to rip me off, then that is criminal because the contract says $84K is the minimum I can get.

So, you guys are telling me that a company like F&G, highly rated, is lying to me on the contract. Forget the FA, I have the quote from F&G.

The "quotes" are not guaranteed values... they are illustrations... aka projections. There is usually some cautionary language on the table of numbers saying that they are not guaranteed.

Illustrated values: https://www.annuityfyi.com/wp-conte...ne-Accumulator-10-Sample-Illustrations_08.png $761,044 value at age 75

Note:
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Guaranteed values: https://www.annuityfyi.com/wp-conte...ne-Accumulator-10-Sample-Illustrations_06.png $105,000 value at age 75


Or alternatively remember the old quote, if it sounds too good to be true then it is. If you plot out the cash flows that you have quoted of $750,000 at 58 and $84,369 annually beginning at age 65 and you live to be 83 it is a 8%+ return... do you really think that the insurer can provide you an 8%+ return and still cover all of its expenses, overhead, taxes and profit?
 
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So, if we assume the $84K annually is correct and not a scam, as some of you say, can we discuss the simple math associated with that and go back to the fact that I need to make >6% each year on the $750K in order to make the non-annuity scenario more advantageous. 6% is pretty high I think to bank on.

Noone seems to be addressing this simple comment. I will reiterate that I am no way a financial expert, which is the reason I came here in the first place. You guys are helping me and making me think. We all need to help each other, right?

I'm not an expert, and I'm not knowledgeable on annuities.

The question I would ask if I were in your shoes, is how do you think the company offering the annuity can manage to do it if you can't yourself? How do they guarantee to pay you an income stream that provides better than a 6% rate of return on your capital with little to no risk if you, investing on your own, see considerable risk in trying to do so?

I wouldn't give anyone $750K without an answer to that which made sense to me. Maybe it's some sort of mortality pooling, or maybe they have access to some investment that I don't. Maybe there are some legislative or tax advantages to annuity companies that I can't get as an individual investor.

But they have to do that somehow, and have enough to pay for their advertising, management, buildings, employees, etc.

Before I handed over $750K, I'd be *veeery* sure to understand that answer. And I'd push myself to understand it fully to the extent that I got an understanding of the math of it, and not just get a hand-wavy answer that didn't stand up to scrutiny.

Personally I don't believe the "access to investments" argument - I think the companies invest in real estate, bonds, and other similar items. There might be some tax advantages, and maybe some mortality pooling, but to me those don't outweigh the costs of the business and the cost to eliminate the risk premium.

Thus, I don't buy them, because I don't understand them.

But if you are headed down that road, I think it would be good for you to be able to understand them.

If you're coming here looking for affirmation of your inclination (which is what it reads like to me), that indicates to me that you don't have that understanding yet. I doubt you'll get it here, and I'm not sure you'll get it from the FA or the annuity company.

ETA: Oh look, I crossposted with @pb4uski, who said, more articulately and with better authority than me, approximately the same thing! I feel good about myself!

ETA2: Also, I would believe @pb4uski's explanation that the values are not guaranteed. That maths out to my brain. On the old whole life policies my Dad bought, the guaranteed vs. projected numbers were way different, the life insurance guy always sold on the projected numbers, and the actual policy performance over the past few decades has been maybe a tad better than the guaranteed numbers as best I can tell. Sounds like this is a similar deal.

TANSTAAFL, as Senator Symms used to say (and others before him).
 
OP, from experience with a fixed indexed annuity called retirement gold from American Equity Ins. from
2013 to 2023 there was a 2.67% return over the 10 years. The income rider showed a much larger value
that was not real money as the only way to get it was withdrawals over a long period. The annuitized amount
of the actual value at Immediate annuities.com was about the same as the income rider amount that had
a separate 1% expense ratio. There is no way this product is a good investment or insurance policy in my view. There is no free lunch and fixed indexed annuities are another good example of this. With a 3 million portfolio you should be able to withdraw 120,000 per year for 30 years and still have the original 3 million in 60% of the cases. A deferred income annuity would work better for your insecurity and the FA would not make the 50,000 to 60,000 he will make selling you the fixed indexed annuity. It's hard to be completely honest when your payday is that significant. The contract can be changed at anniversary dates by the insurance company and the adjustments are usually not to your benefit.

VW
 
many of commented on details.

Insurance is for transfer of risk. You’re paying a premium, fees, etc to transfer that risk. Those risks are not always clear along with higher fees. Typically, an informed DIY investor can get better results with less fees.

The question is are they actually transferring risk - IOW - are they providing a cushion against the risk of market downturn. That’s inherently a very detailed discussion. Normally, you lose a lot of the market upside, and have a relatively small cushion on the downside.

That insurance company is using your money to pay itself and sales people commissions, fees, etc - from your funds.

Perhaps, in some scenarios, there are situations for a portion of investment in annuities. But, usually, one can get better results with less fees.
 
tim0476, simple math sounds very alluring. But it doesn't have to paint a complete picture.

So your annuity is one of many solutions people here consider.
 
Dunno why but I get ~67k on immediateannuities.com also. Not saying its a scam, don’t think anyone is lying but there is a disconnect somewhere. OP could try some of these calculators himself and see if the quotes are consistent or ask FA if not.
 
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