What do you think?

Goodprovider

Dryer sheet wannabe
Joined
Feb 9, 2020
Messages
14
Okay, this is now my current situation:

- Almost 50 years old
- Divorced
- 2 kids who will be college age in 1.5 - I pay for half
- Paid-off house worth about 900k
- About 1.1M in 401k / profit sharing
- Another 1.7M in liquid assets (555k in savings remainder in equities)
- No debt; net worth is about 3.7 million
- Expenses are about 60k per year
- Only certain retirement income would be social security and dividends, though am also in line for inheritances

The timing really feels right for me to call this my last year and retire at 50. Only things that give me pause are health insurance and that I'm single.

Thanks in advance for any feedback. This board and its members are a tremendous resource.
 
Do you have a separate account for college costs?

At quick glance, it looks doable.
Check out ACA website for insurance plans, unless you can get subsidized from your work.

Answering these questions in the ER FAQs will give you a good idea:
Early Retirement & Financial Independence Community > Community Forums > Early Retirement FAQs
Some Important Questions to Answer Before Asking - Can I Retire?

MOD EDIT: Here's the link https://www.early-retirement.org/fo...-answer-before-asking-can-i-retire-69999.html
 
Last edited by a moderator:
For one thing, it's usually not a good idea to count on possible inheritances.

Seems like you're in a pretty good position even after a divorce. Did you try punching your numbers into FIRE Calc? The link is at the lower-right side of the screen.
 
Financially you are all set. Even setting aside say $200K for college you have less than a 2.5% withdrawal rate. That is generally considered a perpetual withdrawal rate where you are very unlikely to even dent your principal.

Does your expense estimate include health insurance (ACA), taxes and allowances for lumpy expenses like home repairs, new cars, etc.?
 
I strongly suggest you and your ex put some limits on the potential college expenses. Let the kids know well in advance what you will and won’t pay for.
 
Thanks all for the reassurance and encouragement.

This is all post divorce, and the 50k annual projection is based on recent history of my spending. Pretty reliable. Plus I plan to downsize my house hopefully reducing property taxes and other expenses.

So I suppose my next step would be to hire a financial advisor, correct? I confess to being somewhat ignorant in this area. How does that work. Would I just turn over all liquid assets to the advisor, and then they essentially handle all of the investing and cut me a check back each month? And I also let them handle my 401k? But then I assume no money will be coming back my way on that until after I turn 59 to avoid penalties.
 
Personally, I believe a financial advisor is a waste of money when you can learn an do it yourself. A key to retirement success is keeping your expenses low.
Many people here invest in ETFs or mutual funds with very low expenses. Index ETFs like VOO for the S&P500, SCHD for dividends are good starters. Buying treasuries through a brokerage such as Schwab or Fidelity is easy, and videos on YouTube are available to learn how.
Keep it simple.
 
I decided when I was in my twenties that I could figure out this financial stuff, so I did. I had no family background in finance (my parents never had more than a checking account) nor did I have any education about it. But I read a lot and gradually developed my knowledge base. I invested virtually all my money in mutual funds and let them ride. My few forays into individual stocks convinced me that it was a game for other people, not me. I am now down to one high dividend paying stock. I've never owned any individual corporate bonds. I've also never used margin, sold short, or traded options or futures.

After many years of simply working hard to maximize my income, spending cautiously, saving assiduously, and investing in decent and inexpensive mutual funds, I was able to retire at 60. So far, it has been a rousing success.

So I would say that you do not need a professional advisor. In the age of the internet, it is easier than ever to learn what you need to know, which is really not a lot.
 
... I confess to being somewhat ignorant in this area. How does that work. ...

..., I believe a financial advisor is a waste of money when you can learn an do it yourself. ...

A frequent comment here is that by the time you have learned enough to select an FA you know enough that you don't need one. Read and learn:

"If You Can" by William Bernstein https://www.etf.com/docs/IfYouCan.pdf (free 16 page download)

"The Coffee House Investor" by Bill Schultheis https://www.amazon.com/Coffeehouse-Investor-Wealth-Ignore-Street/dp/159184584X (This is Bill's first book; read it before reading his second one.)

"The Bogleheads Guide to Investing" by Taylor Larimore et al https://www.amazon.com/Bogleheads-Guide-Investing-Taylor-Larimore/dp/0470067365

"The Simple Path to Wealth" by JL Collins: https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Path-Wealth-financial-independence/dp/1533667926

"Winning the Loser's Game" by Charles Ellis https://www.amazon.com/Winning-Losers-Game-Strategies-Successful-dp-1264258461/dp/1264258461 (latest edition, May 2021)​

People here often recomment bogleheads.org. IMO it's a good site but so large as to be overwhelming. I don't spend time there. You might want to try it, though: https://www.bogleheads.org/wiki/Getting_started
 
Thanks all for the reassurance and encouragement.

...
So I suppose my next step would be to hire a financial advisor, correct? I confess to being somewhat ignorant in this area. How does that work. Would I just turn over all liquid assets to the advisor, and then they essentially handle all of the investing and cut me a check back each month? And I also let them handle my 401k? But then I assume no money will be coming back my way on that until after I turn 59 to avoid penalties.

There are some one-time-fee planners that can help you, but almost all "advisors" are just sales leeches, what they are selling is that you pay them around 1% of your assets every year (AUM advisors), so they can make a complex mess out of your portfolio, put you in things with even more costs that they also get a piece of.

Meanwhile they have no more idea about the future than you do. They are just taught to project confidence and show you backtests as "evidence" that their scheme will work in the future. They all have a spiel promising you better than market returns, plus lower than market risks - which is all nonsense, no such thing exists. Remember, you will only be able to draw about 4% of your initial (inflation adjusted) value of the portfolio each year, hiring an "advisor" that takes 1%, means you have to live on 3%. I had one for a few years, he drove a Maserati, I drove a 15 year old Camry.

I suggest you go to bogleheads.org (named for the late CEO of Vanguard Jack Bogle) and read the wiki entry under "getting started". You will find that it is absurdly easy to set up a portfolio that has a high chance of beating anything an advisor does, because doing it yourself cuts out nearly all costs.

The basics are that you are not going to stock pick or guess at hot sectors or market time. Instead, you are going to buy everything, the seemingly great and seemingly terrible, in a Total Market fund, like Vanguard Total Market ETF (VTI, expense ratio 0.03%). You can buy that from your favorite brokerage, generally without fees. You can add a Total International (I use Vanguard's VXUS, expense ratio 0.07) or Developed Markets fund to get exposure to companies around the world.

Your fixed income portion will have no shortage of opinions. Many of the offerings were only invented fairly recently, so there's no robust theory of what to do. The things that seem right:
- Market timing bonds or selecting what to buy is just as hard as stocks, since real people looking for bargains are pricing both.
- In bonds issued by companies, the Pros really do know more than you do about credit risk, call risk, etc., so those should only be held in a fund.
-Keep your costs low, (as Jack bogle said, "you only get to keep what you don't pay for")
-Match the duration of the investment to your need for the money
-Use some inflation protection

Here, with kids' college expenses coming up, I would start with a larger slice of fixed income as a set-aside for that in short term investments and then spend that down while they are in school. So let's say you have an average risk tolerance, so maybe you want to be a 60%stock/40% bond investor. I would start at maybe 55/45 and use the extra bonds while the kids are in school, so that when they are done, you are at your target allocation. Since these expenses are nearly upon you use things like CDs, short term bond funds, short term Treasuries, short term TIPS.

The remainder of you bonds may not have a specific identified time it will be needed. Some should be inflation protected, using TIPS or TIPS funds, the rest can be Treasuries, a Treasury fund or an Intermediate bond fund. There is a school of thought that a portion should be long term bonds, but after the recent bout of inflation which reminded us of the deadliness of inflation to nominal bonds, buying anything long term other than TIPS seems like a bad idea.

For my own portfolio, I don't want to fool with individual Treasuries or TIPs or try to duration match to our life expectancy, so I have used Vanguard Total Bond (BND). I would also agree with something like VAIPX (intermediate TIPS).
 
Okay, this is now my current situation:
....
- Paid-off house worth about 900k
- About 1.1M in 401k / profit sharing
- Another 1.7M in liquid assets (555k in savings remainder in equities)
- No debt; net worth is about 3.7 million
- Expenses are about 60k per year
....

Please post the percentage of the 1.1M in 401K is invested in (bonds, money market, stocks),
and the 1.7M liquid assets ( how much in IRA, Roth, taxable brokerage, checking/savings accnt).

This directly affects your ability to retire so early.
 
More great feedback folks. Thanks again. You've convinced me to forego a Financial Advisor and study the Bogleheads site.

The entire 1.7M in liguid assets is post-tax. 1.1M is mostly invested in short-term CDs and money market. the remaining 600k is in stocks and mutual funds. I'm not sure on the distribution of the 1.1M in managed 401k / profit sharing funds.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom