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Old 11-13-2007, 10:19 AM   #21
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Off topic... UncleHoney, is that a Victrola in one of your pictures? It looks like the one that I sold at my auction. I also had an Edison, but the Victrola belonged to my Uncle for many years and I bought it from him. Now, it looks like you have it.
Sure is. I got this one from a cousin in 1975, her father bought it new in 1916 for $100. I have all the paperwork and the original bill of sale. It's still in almost perfect condition.

My cousins father was born in Italy and came here about 1895. He loved Italian opera and I have dozens of 78's with most of them as part of the collection.
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Old 11-13-2007, 10:28 AM   #22
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UncleHoney, does yours have a certain smell to it? It's not a bad smell but mine had some sort of smell with it after you opened the lid. It probably was an oil or something. I always associated that smell with my memories of my Uncle. Mine was almost in perfect condition also. I think it was mahogony as I believe your table was that you made. Everything will look very nice in your "new" basement.
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Old 11-13-2007, 10:33 AM   #23
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Don't forget to put in plenty of ceiling lights!
I'm thinking of "can lights" that I can control with dimmer switches. Also,I have some of these can lights in the other side of the basement, where we have built in wood storage shelves. I put CFB's in them, and they work well. I have heard you can get CFB's that are dimmable, sounds like a plan.

What about putting tile in there? I can put some nice area rugs in the traffic areas, and the tile should clean up well. I talked to one guy who will put radiant heat under the tile for cheap..............
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Old 11-13-2007, 10:35 AM   #24
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Consider factoring in the cost/hassle of the permit/inspections required. Not sure about the entire country but some places will, if they find out you did it without a permit, require that the "improvements" be removed. The government is interested in your expertise at least to the point it increases the value, and hence the real estate tax assessment, of your home.
Permits are $150, and I can get one very easily.
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Old 11-13-2007, 10:38 AM   #25
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UncleHoney, does yours have a certain smell to it? It's not a bad smell but mine had some sort of smell with it after you opened the lid. It probably was an oil or something. I always associated that smell with my memories of my Uncle. Mine was almost in perfect condition also. I think it was mahogony as I believe your table was that you made. Everything will look very nice in your "new" basement.
Mine does have a odor too and I think it must be coming from the oil and grease of the spring drive mechanism. Old wood and finishes tend to give off odors too so that may be part of it. Yes mine is mahogany and the table finish came out fairly close to it.
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Old 11-13-2007, 11:43 AM   #26
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I will try to post
before pics in the next couple days. There's a lot of furniture and "stuff" to be dealt with, but it will be that much more "dramatic" in the
after" photos.........

Looks like a go. I have a little extra money tucked away I am using on this......I hope I can do it for $5,000, because that's what I budgeted........
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Old 11-13-2007, 11:45 AM   #27
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I put CFB's in them
Let my people go!!!

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I have heard you can get CFB's that are dimmable
nm.
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Old 11-13-2007, 12:03 PM   #28
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Samclem, your link didn't work for me. That site could be very useful for many. Please try again.
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Old 11-13-2007, 12:06 PM   #29
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I took off the / before the http and the link works.
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Old 11-13-2007, 01:14 PM   #30
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samclem,

Good information! I'm betting that the original owners/builders of my house did not follow the recommendations on the link. I might be able to get the backhoe and redo it on the outside block wall, but it's probably too much effort even for someone retiring soon. But the inside method you describe is doable. Thanks.
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Old 11-13-2007, 01:40 PM   #31
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Did I mention ALL the block walls have been Dry-Locked in the past two years, with TWO coats over the entire surface, except for the floor? I do have a couple cracks in the floor, but not water yet. I am thinking ceramic tile for the floor, maybe with radiant heat under it for the cold?

Or I could always do vinyl or Perego.........
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Old 11-13-2007, 01:53 PM   #32
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Keeping a basement dry is a real science and worth the effort if you want to use a basement as habitable space. Mold is a BAD thing and if it gets a hold in your basement the rest of the house is compromised.
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Old 11-13-2007, 02:47 PM   #33
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Keeping a basement dry is a real science and worth the effort if you want to use a basement as habitable space. Mold is a BAD thing and if it gets a hold in your basement the rest of the house is compromised.
Agreed: I have a failry good size dehumidifier that runs year round, an air cleaner for dust, pollens, etc, have Dry-Locked the walls, and wrapped the water pipes and things coming into the house to protect against insulation.

The sump pump has a battery backup and I think I will go with tile instead of carpet. If I DO get water, the tile will be easy to clean up.
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Old 11-13-2007, 10:02 PM   #34
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FD,
The "can" lights will work, and a lot of people like the look. "Trougher" tube-type flourescents put out the mot light per dollar spent on fixtures and they also put out the most light per watt of any bulb (including CFL). But, many folks just don't like 'em.
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Old 11-14-2007, 07:36 AM   #35
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okay...heres my .02...i just did this 3 yrs ago. my area is 270 sf, and was finished for about $1500, with all of my labor. i used polystyrene insulation glued to the walls, then build walls with 2x4's, leaving a 2" gap between them and the insulation. this air gap adds to the r-value, and also allows for airflow to prevent mold. i set up 2 small 100 cfm fans behind there (still accessible) that run off and on all the time, circulating the air. i think you can bypass the vapor barrier in the above example. get the thickest poly you can afford, insulation will pay for itself over and over...

by using real 2x4's you also save a few $$ on electrical fixtures, as you must use the shallow, more expensive ones if you use furring strips. try metal 2x4's.....crooked lumber is very frustrating....and if you goto home depot, very little will be perfect unless you use the exxxxpensive stuff. use treated on the bottom sill plate, as code describes, if u stick with wood

be careful with the electic if you arent experienced...but anyone with some common sense and experience CAN do it...i did....i even got a permit to do my own electric from the city .,...just read a few books, took the test, and voila!!

egress can be beneficial if you want this area to be considered actual square footage living area. Typically, it can be considered a bedroom with the window, egress, a closet, and at least 100sf. This could add value to the home if done right, so dont toss the idea of an egress out the window...npi

for flooring, i agree with carpet being a tough one. i did 1/2 carpet, 1/2 pergo (CHEAP pergo that costs me 1.25/sf including everything...check lowes). this lowered the cost, and the future cost of pulling up wet carpet. i used the pergo in the area closest to the h20 tank, sub pump, and washer...so IF they flood, im not in such bad shape. i paid for someone to lay the carpet approx 145sf-its included in my total price. when 'boxing' in the area with my washtub, h20, sub pump, washer etc, i actually caulked/glued the 2x4's to the ground, and stacked em 2 high to help contain the water if it does happen


use greenboard instead of drywall, as previously explained


ive never done a drop ceiling, but with SOME skill, i'd advise a real ceiling with 2x4's and drywall...it gives it a MUCH classier, welldone look imho...but it is a bit harder to do

i always loved the recessed can lighting on a dimmer in a basement, but again jmho



good luck! i say you will
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Old 11-14-2007, 07:55 AM   #36
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i almost forgot. cermaic tile can be had for $.69/sf in 12" squares, and even less in 18" (depot,lowes...less if on sale!!). Do yourself a favor and investigate that route. the radiant heat installation is nothing...do a google search....nevertheless you can't beat some nice neutral ceramic tile coupled with grout for WELL under $1/sf!!!! The radiant heat will make that aspect of the job cheaper...you might only need to tap into the main one or 2 times for a little forced heat/AC....

i wish i had considered this when doing mine, but it just didnt cross my mind
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Old 11-14-2007, 07:59 AM   #37
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oops, one more thing.

dont put too much merit into drylock and similar products. the only sure-fire way to stop the water before it comes....and it WILL come (the question is when?5 yrs? 50 yrs?)....would be an interior waterproofing system tied into the pump. this IS a diy job wiht some research, and imho IS DEFINATELY worth the $$ it'll cost. you essentially ensure yourself a dry finishedbasement FOREVER. its basically jackhammering up the perimiter of the room, laying gravel and perfrated pipe as in a french drain, sloping toward the sub pump - tied in of course. then a little lip on the floor/wall union to steer the water down, re-cement, and youre done.
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Old 11-14-2007, 09:27 AM   #38
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Thanks for all the replies, I went to a rec room remodeling workshop last night and learned a lot. I guy running it has his own remodeling business and was helpful. Based on his info, I learned the following:

1)In my village, I HAVE to hire an electrician to do the wiring, there is no way around it. The building inspectors have cracked down on the electrician pulling the permit but the homeowner doing the work. It will be extra cost I wasn't counting on.

2)The framing and insulating won't be that hard, I have plenty of help for that. However, I have a guy I know who will frame it for cheap,so I may do that to save time.

3)I have done plenty of drywall over the years, so I think that will be the easy part.

4)I am doing a drop ceiling because my house has a lot of stuff stacked up in the joices and I need access in multiple areas, and I don't feel like drywalling it all and then carving it up with a Rotozip like some big jack-o-lantern........

5)After talking to the remodeling guy, I am going to do carpet, with a nice pad under. I have a couple cracks in the floor I need to epoxy up before I get too far.

6)No plans for a bedroom or bathroom down there, I already have 2 and a half baths, and that's plenty. The space I will finish off is 22 X 22. Got a quote on an egress window...........yikes!! Not sure about what to do there.........

7)The "other half" of the basement will stay the way it is. We have built in shelves on that side with can lights. Over the top of that area of the basement is a sunken family room, so the head space s limited. It's where the hot water heater, softener, and reverse osmosis filter exist, so I'll leave it status quo. I amy end up sealing it with paint or tiliing it if I get bored.

8)I told DW I think I can get it down for under $5000. We'll see..........

9)As far as water goes, the ONLY water I had in my basement ever came in from one of the basement windows, after we had 7 inches of rain in 8 hours. What I learned that day was I was missing a window well by that window, and after the ground got saturated, the water had to go somewhere, so it went down. After I dug a new window well and put in 260 pounds of various types of rock, along with sections of PVC pipe pitched into the ground at the bottom of the window well dug out area, no problems. Plus, I live on the top of a hill, so the water tends to flow away from me.........
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Old 11-14-2007, 09:40 AM   #39
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I know we keep harping on the dampness and mold issue, but from what I have read (similar to SamClem's article he linked) even if you have a "dry" basement with no leaks you still might have condensation problems, especially in the northern part of the country. That is why I suggested laying a piece of plastic sheeting on the floor for a couple of days and seeing if dampness collects on the plastic.
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Old 11-14-2007, 09:42 AM   #40
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I know we keep harping on the dampness and mold issue, but from what I have read (similar to SamClem's article he linked) even if you have a "dry" basement with no leaks you still might have condensation problems, especially in the northern part of the country. That is why I suggested laying a piece of plastic sheeting on the floor for a couple of days and seeing if dampness collects on the plastic.
Already doing the "test" as we speak.........plastic dropcloth will be on the floor for a week........checking it every day..........
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