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Old 02-05-2016, 09:02 AM   #21
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I have enough IKEA halogen track lights in my current kitchen to do surgery. But they're expensive to run and expensive to replace bulbs.

I'm in the process of getting our new house ready to move into. I'm adding 6 LED fixtures under my kitchen cabinets and stovetop. I'm also going to add 5 5" canned lights with 100 watt equivalent LED downiights. The 2700 color is all I'm finding with the 100's--as most LED's are 65 watt equivalents.

When you're used to having so much light, it's just difficult to live "in the dark." And LED's last so much longer and use such little power.
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Old 02-05-2016, 12:11 PM   #22
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I have a row of Crees with the integral trim near a Philips bulb in an eyeball trim and although they are all "soft white", to me the Philips bulb appears a tiny bit yellower. However, it is in the eyeball trim and placed at a different angle. I didn't notice the difference prior to this thread!
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Old 02-06-2016, 07:27 AM   #23
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Bamaman, check out www.earthled.com
They have some 100 watt equivalent leds in cooler temperatures.
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Old 02-06-2016, 08:32 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Lsbcal View Post
I recently bought some LED flood bulbs to replace the incandescent flood bulbs in the kitchen (older canned light fixtures). These have a color temperature of 2700. But they appear "cooler" (more towards blue) then the incandescents. DW and I wanted more warmth. So I wound up mixing the LED and incandescent floods. Not as perfect a solution as I would like, one bank of 4 went from 260 watts down to 150 watts now.

Apparently the "warmist" (orange like) is color temperature 2700. 2700 appears to be the lower limit for LED's right now. Higher numbers get you "cooler" (more towards blue). This link explains things: Color Temperature

Are there any other tricks to get to all LED's and keep more of that orange/yellow incandescent light?
FWIW, the lower the number, the lower the temperature the light represents; e.g., 2700 Kelvin is cooler than 3000 Kelvin. However, the lower the temperature, the "warmer", more yellow the light feels to the viewer. Net, what's warmer depends on whether you mean the color or the temperature.
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Old 02-06-2016, 08:36 AM   #25
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We replaced all except the fluorescent tube lights with leds. In the bathroom and kitchen we have 5000K mainly for the better contrast. The overhead par30 can lights we used 4000K. We like the effect, I don't like the "yellow" light of incandescents. But each person is different. Choose what you prefer.
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Old 02-06-2016, 06:14 PM   #26
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Well, decided to take back the 40W equivalent as they do not dim on any of my circuits.... I will leave the two of the four I put in the breakfast light as that is not bad and we hardly dim those at all....


Now have to make sure anything bought going forward can dim!!!
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Old 02-06-2016, 09:47 PM   #27
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Well, decided to take back the 40W equivalent as they do not dim on any of my circuits.... I will leave the two of the four I put in the breakfast light as that is not bad and we hardly dim those at all....


Now have to make sure anything bought going forward can dim!!!
And the dimmers must be rated for LED/CFL as well. I wouldn't count on "we don't use the dimming, we set it on high" - they might use a physical switch to bypass the dimming circuit on FULL ON, but I'm not sure, and some one might unintentionally turn them down. They likely just set the semiconductor to FULL ON, and if it isn't rated to handle the reactive load that an LED/CFL present, it could be bad for the dimmer and/or the LED/CFL.

And beyond that, my experience is that the interaction between a CFL/LED rated dimmer, and a dimmable LED is still fuzzy. As I described earlier, my rated dimmer/LED combo fluctuated in brightness randomly - just moved up and down, rather than hold a steady level (not a repetitive 'flicker'). I had to add a filament bulb to that group, and that seemed to damp out the reactance enough for everything to work. But then you can run into the filament and LED not dimming evenly together, but that seems OK to me.

-ERD50
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Old 02-07-2016, 12:33 AM   #28
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And the dimmers must be rated for LED/CFL as well. I wouldn't count on "we don't use the dimming, we set it on high" - they might use a physical switch to bypass the dimming circuit on FULL ON, but I'm not sure, and some one might unintentionally turn them down. They likely just set the semiconductor to FULL ON, and if it isn't rated to handle the reactive load that an LED/CFL present, it could be bad for the dimmer and/or the LED/CFL.

And beyond that, my experience is that the interaction between a CFL/LED rated dimmer, and a dimmable LED is still fuzzy. As I described earlier, my rated dimmer/LED combo fluctuated in brightness randomly - just moved up and down, rather than hold a steady level (not a repetitive 'flicker'). I had to add a filament bulb to that group, and that seemed to damp out the reactance enough for everything to work. But then you can run into the filament and LED not dimming evenly together, but that seems OK to me.

-ERD50

I am sure there are considerations to look at.... but I put in 4 BR40s in the kitchen at 9w each and the dimmer switch that was there works just fine... no noise, and it does not flicker or move around or anything.... just dims the LED lights.... looked them up and they say they are dimmable on the package...

I had not looked at regular bulbs to see if they have some listed as dimmable or not.... the cost factor is a multiple of these that they had on sale....
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