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Old 12-08-2011, 10:20 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by HFWR View Post
Or how about a hack that's the best of both worlds?

Get a grommet to fit, then snip it on one side. Slip it around the pipe, and snap it into place in the opening. Pookie with silicone.

No need to take the whole thing apart. Unless, of course, your friends have a propensity to inspect your basement plumbing for aesthetics...
Unless I misunderstood, I think the travelover's post described something like that. No need to take it apart, the split sleeve would fit over and fill most/all of the gap.

-ERD50
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Old 12-08-2011, 10:38 AM   #22
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Unless I misunderstood, I think the travelover's post described something like that. No need to take it apart, the split sleeve would fit over and fill most/all of the gap.

-ERD50
True, except grommet <> split sleeve...
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Old 12-08-2011, 11:19 AM   #23
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If split sleeve or grommet can be found cheaply and easily, then it is a better choice than caulk alone. But I doubt it will make that much difference for a 1/16 1/8 gap comparing with caulk only solution. Ejector pit pump will go sooner or later, and probably it's best time to redo everything when the new pump is put in. Personally, I probably would give the GE brand 100% silicone clear type caulk a shot at first. It's very versatile and it hurts nothing to have one tube at home anyway. It can also be used as your tent seam sealer after getting mixed with mineral spirits.
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Old 12-08-2011, 07:01 PM   #24
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When the lid is sealed and the pump cycles on it draws in some air - I would be concerned that it might suck in the plumbers putty. The silicone option sounds safer. Once it sets it would need to be broken, and that might be a PITA, but that should be years from now. The lid only should be removed if the pump fails, and then breaking the seal and damaging the lid of the pipe would not be an issue.

Ronstar, I cannot find the gasket anywhere. Even if I could, to install I would need to remove the lid, disconnect the pipe, run the gasket over the pipe, reconnect it, then rebolt the lid. This is beyond my limited reach into home plumbing. Just because silicone isn't used doesn't mean it won't work.
If yours is like mine, the discharge pipe vibrates a little when the pump is on. I don't think silicone would work on mine due to the vibration. My comments on silicone and putty not working are based on the vibration. And I wouldn't think of trying anything different than the gasket due to possible sewer gas escape. I checked all over online and I can't find the gaskets sold separately either.
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Old 12-08-2011, 07:42 PM   #25
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Maybe what Michael has been looking for is something like this: polyethylene waste holding tank fittings, Ameri-Kart 3" Rubber Inlet Grommet - Holding Tank Fittings - Black Water Tanks - Plumbing. Apparently, its installation does require the removal of the existing tank lid. If so, it's a good idea to apply some Vaseline to the inside of the grommet, and the gasket (if any) between holding tank body and tank lid before the final assembly.
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Old 12-09-2011, 05:05 AM   #26
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That's it ratto. Your link is for a 3" pipe. But I believe most sewage ejector discharge and vent pipes are 2". So Michael will most likely need one (or two) of those for 2" pipe.

When I plumbed my house, I installed the below floor plumbing and pit, then the pump and outlet piping, slid the lid on, and then glued sections of discharge/vent pipe as I went up. Our pump went out when I was out of town, and DW called a plumber. He cut both the discharge and vent pipe, took off the lid, installed the new pump, put the lid back on, and then reconnected the discharge piping with a threaded union and valve, and the vent pipe with a rubber sleeve. This will make for easy fixes in the future.

Michael's can be fixed in a similar manner - just cut the pipes if they are hard piped (or disconnect at unions), take off the lid, unscrew pipe from pump and slide the pipes off the lid, install the new gaskets, screw discharge pipe back on pump, reinstall the piping through the gaskets, bolt down the lid, and reconnect piping to house piping.

The toughest part of all of this may be finding the gaskets. Here's a photo of my setup.

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Old 12-11-2011, 12:23 PM   #27
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I'm really glad we don't have a basement.
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Old 12-11-2011, 01:32 PM   #28
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I'd buy a Fernco type coupler, split it and attach it to the pipe with a hose clamp. A little sealer on the bottom edge and split would seal it nicely.
This is what I did. Almost, but not quite, a perfect fit - there was still a tiny bit of space, so I used silicone to seal it. Not sure about the seal because I didn't have room to maneuver, hopefully this will keep things where they belong until the next pump change.

Thanks to all for the helpful hints, tip of the hat to travelover
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Old 12-11-2011, 01:43 PM   #29
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I'm really glad we don't have a basement.
Last year the main sump pump and the backup battery pump both failed. That's when I found out that the ejector pit wouldn't take the runoff in the furnace room until the water went above the lid (1/2 inch), that our furnace room in not flat and the high point is the ejector pit.
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