Trusting Your Auto Mechanic

Today the mechanic told me that the shocks and struts are rusted (and "look crappy") on our 1999 Toyota Tacoma (140K miles), and it would be $700 to replace them.

If they (shocks/struts) have never been replaced before, then it's time.

Are they all shocks? If so, the price is high.

If all are struts (which I doubt on a truck) then it's quite reasonable.
 
From my Internets research, the shocks are cheap and easy to replace (rear), the struts (which are combined shocks, springs, etc.) are difficult.

I considered doing the shocks, but figured that if it was that cheap and easy, I wouldn't save that much money. I recently saved about $85 flushing the coolant in the echo, but it was only marginally worth it ($34 for coolant versus $110 for the shop to do it), since there was the danger I'd screw something up.
 
From my Internets research, the shocks are cheap and easy to replace (rear), the struts (which are combined shocks, springs, etc.) are difficult.

I considered doing the shocks, but figured that if it was that cheap and easy, I wouldn't save that much money.

Good decision. And yeah, the rear shocks may be easy to replace if the bolts aren't heavily rusted. Since that's not likely the case, wanna bet you'd bust some knuckles and say a lot of ugly words getting the old ones off? :cool:
 
From my Internets research, the shocks are cheap and easy to replace (rear), the struts (which are combined shocks, springs, etc.) are difficult.

I considered doing the shocks, but figured that if it was that cheap and easy, I wouldn't save that much money. I recently saved about $85 flushing the coolant in the echo, but it was only marginally worth it ($34 for coolant versus $110 for the shop to do it), since there was the danger I'd screw something up.

Everything is relative Al. At one time I would not even think about changing shocks, let alone the struts. But I got brave and gave the struts a try. The first one was horrible (a lot of not so nice words and a few bruises), the second one was easier, the third and fourth were simple going through the motion.

What kind of coolant do you use? $34:confused:

Forgot to add: You may have to do a realignment after changing the front struts.
 
Actually, I am not that bad. I need new shocks now, but the job is huge. 10+ hours for the rear alone. On my car, you need to take the entire rear seat and rear shelf out. May do it myself, but maybe next year. Just dropped $700 on a set of tires.

If you decide to do the work Al, get a few quotes. After 100K I would be willing to bet they need to be replaced. Sometimes Sears has a special, buy 2 and get 2 free, with installation not too expensive.
 
That's one way to keep those mechanics in line !

I remember reading about some Texas oil millionaires from the 1950's that used to buy a new Cadillac whenever they ran out of gas.


That has to be a tall tale.... heck, driving around in Texas that could be a single day...
 
I just buy new cars when the tires need replacing. I never kept one long enough to replace the shocks.


WOW.... I have done it when I replace tires twice max so far... For a sports car that can be at 90K...
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterBlaster
That's one way to keep those mechanics in line !

I remember reading about some Texas oil millionaires from the 1950's that used to buy a new Cadillac whenever they ran out of gas.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas Proud

That has to be a tall tale.... heck, driving around in Texas that could be a single day...

I do remember reading about that. The 1950's was about some people in Texas getting very very rich in a short time and taking the stage from the east-coast old-money. That was the nadir of Texas folklore.

But after searching I can't find a decent link to those stories.

Nonetheless, using the BimmerBill method of avoiding mechanics, I thought he could up-it a notch.... Texas Style
 
I fired them in part because they recommended I replaced a cracked manifold, and when I saw the old part, it just looked scratched.

Heck, T-Al, if they were really dishonest they would have been sure to show you a cracked manifold. One way or the other... :cool:

It's tough to judge, I'll try that Car Talk site. I kinda 'trust' the shop I've been using, they don't seem to push unneeded stuff. When one estimate seemed really high, I did a search and yep - bunch of odd stuff made it expensive and very difficult for a DIY'er.

One other source for Illinois and maybe some other states - the Illinois EPA publishes records for shops that submit cars for emission repairs (after you fail the test). They have quantity for the quarter, and a % PASS after the repair. Of course, that might push the shop to do more then the necessary repairs just to assure a PASS. My guy had me come in a day after after driving a bit, and they re-ran the diagnostic before he'd give me the paperwork, but that's OK - his shop is closer than the testing station.

-ERD50
 
Buyer Beware

This whole thread just reminds me once again that "knowledge is power" here. If you really don't know about cars or investments or whatever, you are likely to pay too much and pay for things that give you little value back.

The car as well as the "financial advisor" rip-off scheme is oft-practiced and ever present. Buyer Beware.
 
I know zip about cars. I usually spend a lot of time deciding on who will repair my cars as I am at their mercy. He knows it and I know it.

I always search out a small family run operation and get to know the wife and kids too. It's hard for them to screw a family friend. It's his job to also make me smarter with each visit to the shop. ( I always learn something about how a car works)

I liken this to folks who put their full faith in a financial advisor to not screw them. Being a DYI investment guy for many years I can easily see the comparison.

Get new shocks/struts. They are "crappy", an auto mechanic term I have heard before.
 
If he didn't test drive it or at least do a "bounce test" and if he didn't see a bent rod or leaking fluid, then I don't see how he could recommend replacements.

If they are still providing good handling and damping, I don't think I'd replace them. Has this mechanic been a straight-shooter in your previous dealings?
I'm embarrased to say that my wifes 19 year old car still has the original struts and shocks and the car has approximatly 140k miles on her. They don't leak oil and the bounce test still passes. Mind you I don't deny that they don't perform as well as they did when new. Will I change them, she hasn't complained about them and since she loves her Acura I told her (how about we replace the car when she's 20). Since everything still works and the car has been amazingly reliable she's onboard with that.

From my Internets research, the shocks are cheap and easy to replace (rear), the struts (which are combined shocks, springs, etc.) are difficult.
Last time I helped a friend replace front struts he had the proper spring compressor tool and since it's under a lot of tension, it was still somewhat dangerous. If however the whole strut including spring is being replaced as a whole then it's just a matter of re & re and as mentioned as long as the bolts aren't seized/rusted it's not a difficult job to do.

I guess it does boil down to trust and maybe yours were leaking and didn't pass the so called bounce test, if you trust him/her then that's half the battle.

People constantly ask me to recomend a good mechanic that they can trust and so far I haven't found on, good to know you have since I'm sure there are many out there.
 
Today the mechanic told me that the shocks and struts are rusted (and "look crappy") on our 1999 Toyota Tacoma (140K miles), and it would be $700 to replace them.

I gave him the go ahead after a little Internet research, but I'm wondering what the best way to handle these decisions is. I trust that he's honest, but there's no way to know whether he's being overcautious.

I think I'll ask to see the removed parts to get a feeling for next time.

How do you handle it?

I do everything that mechanics tell me to do with my vehicles (safety first, and all that). Driving Toyotas, I rarely have any reason to see a mechanic anyway, so this hasn't cost me much at all. In your shoes, I would go ahead and get it done. You can always change mechanics next time.
 
The tough part is if you think your mechanic is trying to churn business and you go somewhere else and ask them to check the struts and another mechanic says your car is fine, then you still don't know if the second mechanic is telling you the truth or is telling you what you wish to hear. Then you've spend the time researching the new mechanic. Yes, you can examine the parts and see learn to see if the original mechanic is leveling with you or not. But having the knowledge, isnt' that why you hire the mechanic in the first place?

While I was w*rking, I used to go to this place for years, but decided to "fire" them and now go to another place. Nearly every time, I brought my car in for an oil change, they say "so and so" also needs done. I never knew if they were churning service or not. The kicker though was once I brought my car in for an oil change, when I picked it up they said, "you should get your A/C worked on soon..." so the next time I bring it in I say, "do the A/C work", they look at it and say "the A/C looks fine, no prob" charged me for the inspection. Then eventually the next time I bring the oil change in, they do say the A/C needs work. I was going, "what the heck, why didn't they fix it when I told them to do it after they recommended the work?"

It was almost like one mechanic wasn't talking to another. That's why I keep good logs of services and they when I repair is warranted, I look at "is that reasonable for the time/miles driven?"--helps to take some of the guesswork of "Is the mechanic honest?" out of the equation.
 
What do you think?

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No, no difference. But they didn't say the shocks/struts weren't working.

My impression is that the shocks were fine and would have lasted another 5-10 years. The struts were maybe OK.
 
Those photos are a joke, right? You found them while scuba diving? If those are indeed your old shocks I would not have driven another 10 miles on them.

Ha
 
Those photos are a joke, right? You found them while scuba diving?

Ha


Not only that... but the bed they are on is also rusted out like crazy... maybe the struts were good until put on that bed :ROFLMAO:
 
With all the salt they put on the roads here in Wisconsin, every piece of metal rusts within about 3 years. That does NOT mean it needs to be replaced just because it "looks crappy". I've owned 5 vehicles, 2 with well over 100,000 miles, and have never replaced shocks or struts. My brothers mechanic said his car needed new rear shocks at 140,000 miles. Due to financial reasons, he didn't have it done. 3 years later the car is still fine.
 
I think the mechanic was being honest that the parts were rusted and "looked like crap". But I suspect those would go another 4-5 years.

I pumped gas in the late 60's and the "fillin station" mechanics seemed honest but always tended to err on the "replace em" side. Of course, all their cars were older but kept immaculate and everything underneath the hood was shiny-shiny love.
 
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