Wooden Knife Handles

[ERD50]

Depends how far you want to go. Looking at the wood, it seems to be a fairly open grain wood - I might remove the rivets and replace with a very dense wood - like cocobolo, corteza amarilla, ron ron, etc. ...

Probably overboard though. lol

I just might take this path. I think I probably have enough scraps of cocobolo to do a few knives, if not buying small amounts like that is no big deal. That could be a fun and manageable project for me.

Cocobolo is so oily it is difficult to glue. As you get down to fine sandpaper, and polishing it with cloth, the oils come up and it just seems to provide its own finish. Beautiful too. Yep, this could be fun - man, with cocobolo handles, those knives would look sharp (hah!).

Later, I might google this subject, and maybe write to the Chicago Cutlery people about their wood handles.

-ERD50

 

[MRG]

Later, I might google this subject, and maybe write to the Chicago Cutlery people about their wood handles.

-ERD50

I've had 2 different sets from Chicago Cutlery, wood handle knives. One American Black Walnut, one set in Cherry. On the cherry there is a number (103) that indicates the knife followed by a 'C' for cherry? Not sure how/if the walnut was marked.

We took better care of the walnut, the cherry is in desperate need of oil.
MRG

 

[Milton]

So I think the Chicago Cutlery knives use wood that doesn't do well.

I'm not surprised (current production is made in China).

If your budget can bear it, you might think about buying the "Forged Xtra" line from Grohmann Knives:

These eye-catching handles are made from layers of natural hardwoods impregnated with resin. The beauty of wood, a high gloss finish that does not require any future liquid finishes, not affected by extreme temperatures & resistant to the corrosive affects of salt water are just some of the reasons to choose Xtra Water-Resistant Resinwood.

 

[Ed_The_Gypsy]

I do not wash knives of any kind in the dish washer. Bad for the blades, but hell on wood handles as well.

Recommend not using vegetable oil to season wood in contact with food (cutting boards, spoons, bowls, etc.). It can become rancid.

If adding sand to a coating, make it as fine as dust if you can.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

 

[TromboneAl]

The polyurethane came off quickly with my orbital sander + some fine steel wool.

Put on 100% tung oil. That stuff is nice, they look good:

I did the steak knives too.

I bought some beeswax also, but maybe I'll try just the tung first?

 

[TromboneAl]

And speaking of knives, Lena's dad made knives/handles/sheaths as a hobby, using woods from around the world and also reindeer horn:

 

[poorcarver]

heat mineral oil in a double boiler then add flaked or chunk beeswax. I do about 50/50 by weight. When the wax is dissolved in the oil scoop it up into a jar. Then apply this to any wooden utility vessel, handle or cutting board. Re-apply as needed when the wood gets to looking dry.

 

[ERD50]

I've had 2 different sets from Chicago Cutlery, wood handle knives. One American Black Walnut, one set in Cherry. On the cherry there is a number (103) that indicates the knife followed by a 'C' for cherry? Not sure how/if the walnut was marked.

We took better care of the walnut, the cherry is in desperate need of oil.
MRG

The ones I can read have a # and the letter "S", like the one T-Al just posted, and the wood looks similar.

-ERD50

 

[JakeBrake]

DW uses the dish washer test on all knives. I think the term is "autoclavable". If a knife can't stand the dish washer , handle or blade, it soon goes in the garbage.

I use boiled linseed oil on my wooden handled tools.

During my illustrious military career, we were required to use raw linseed oil on our M1 Garand and M14 stocks. Raw linseed oil is much harder to use than boiled linseed oil.

 

[crtreedude]

My wife I think would threaten to use a knife on me if I put one with a wooden handle in the dishwasher. lol

 

[haha]

Thanks to those who commented on my salad bowl.

I'll sand it as suggested, and probably oil with salad bowl oil. I kind of wonder though if coconut oil might be better and cheaper.

Ha

 

[MRG]

The ones I can read have a # and the letter "S", like the one T-Al just posted, and the wood looks similar.

-ERD50

I found our old set of Chicago Cutlery knives (1988 vintage). They have the same markings as yours, number followed by 'S'. I don't have the walnut steak knives to compare our 1994 cherry steak knives with. There is a difference in quality of the blades between 1988 and 1994 sets.

Our 1988 vintage is American Black Walnut, that appears to be the same as the OP's.

I think everyone agrees on the treatment of wooden knife handles. They don't go in the dishwasher (for the blades to stay in top condition and the wood to stay properly dry) and need periodic oilings.

I used to work in a walnut sawmill, funny thing green walnut lumber is typically 'steamed' for a couple of days after its sawed, but before air drying and kiln drying. The steaming spreads the dark heartwood color to the white sapwood. Without steaming there are limits(surface area or square inches) to how much white sapwood a particular grade of walnut lumber can have. But after wood is dried, moisture is an enemy. Though drying and periodic oil treatment are required.
MRG

 

[splitwdw]

.......I kind of wonder though if coconut oil might be better and cheaper.
Ha

Ha, Coconut oil can go rancid over time so you wouldn't want that in your salad bowl.

 

[haha]

Ha, Coconut oil can go rancid over time so you wouldn't want that in your salad bowl.

Thanks for the correction. I had thought maybe it was so stable that it would not go rancid.

Ha