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Old 04-03-2013, 03:13 PM   #21
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I think the short answer to the internet question is: yes. Prices seem to revert to the mean because of the internet. If a dealer puts up a car that has a huge sandbag markup it won't even get looked at online, since I'd guess most searchers sort by price ascending, or by mileage/price ascending. Either that, or the dealer has to list substantially different prices online versus on lot, and that carries plenty of other issues. The more popular and common the car, the more this applies.

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What happened to dealers marking up prices like crazy just to bait suckers. In the Internet age has the car dealership world changed?
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Old 04-03-2013, 03:29 PM   #22
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How do I decide if we should get a 2-3 year old car or a 8 year old+ car? It seems like the 8 year old will be a maintenance nightmare, or it could be worry free for 120k miles
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Old 04-03-2013, 03:36 PM   #23
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How do I decide if we should get a 2-3 year old car or a 8 year old+ car? It seems like the 8 year old will be a maintenance nightmare, or it could be worry free for 120k miles
I could take the time to explain why, but I'll just say buying an 8 year old car is probably a bad idea unless you're very savvy about maintaining cars, don't mind getting a new 8 year old car more often, and consider yourself lucky. New or 2-3 year old cars are likely much better bets for most people. Not sure how 8 year old cars got into the discussion, but no matter...
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Old 04-03-2013, 03:53 PM   #24
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If looking for new car might consider the dogs of the delaerships.

Among them are the Nissan Quest, Toyota Prius.

5 dogs of the car dealership - Slide Show - MarketWatch
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:00 PM   #25
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Just purchased a 2013 Honda Accord. Honda is having an incentive type deal the month of April (low % financing). Check out the Accords...there are several price points for the Accord model. I'm happy with mine so far. Has back up camera and other nice features. You might be better off getting a new car this time.
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:03 PM   #26
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How do I decide if we should get a 2-3 year old car or a 8 year old+ car? It seems like the 8 year old will be a maintenance nightmare, or it could be worry free for 120k miles
The age is not as important as the mileage as far as mechanicals are concerned. The biggest depreciation usually takes place in the first four years or so and then levels off.
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:03 PM   #27
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The cars that are the most reliable (Hondas, Toyotas, and most Subarus) don't depreciate very much. That means that buying a 2-3 year old one won't save you much money. If you get a car that tends to depreciate at a higher rate (Cadillac, most Chevy models, etc), then getting one a few years old might still let you get a deal. But you may pay later in higher maintenance.
If this is a car you plan to keep for a long time (8-10 years), at least give some thought to buying a new, reliable brand and make do without all the bells and whistles. A Honda CR-V is considered by some an SUV, but its a small one--it weighs within 150 lbs of the TDI you are looking at. You can get a brand new one for about what this dealer is asking for the several year old TDI. No funky maintenance problems, etc. And made int he US, not Mexico, if that's important.
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:30 PM   #28
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VW Golf

John, Its the TDI that is kicking you - I just bought a 2013 VW Golf hatchback, 4 dr auto, gas at $19,500, two, three years free maintenance. Bought it because I could fit my bike in the back and it would hold the two kiddos, and stroller. I'd also seriously consider a Mazda 3 or a Toyota Matrix, both in the same price range. I am a loyal Toyota fan, but I love the way the Golf drives.
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Old 04-03-2013, 09:18 PM   #29
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How do I decide if we should get a 2-3 year old car or a 8 year old+ car? It seems like the 8 year old will be a maintenance nightmare, or it could be worry free for 120k miles
When I buy used vehicles, I try to find vehicles that still have a little bit of bumper-to-bumper warranty left and a powertrain warranty that extends at least a couple years after the bumper-to-bumper warranty. That way if I have a problem during the remaining bumper-to-bumper period I am covered and I am also protected from any expensive power train problems.
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Old 04-03-2013, 09:27 PM   #30
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Have you researched prices on an online used car sales site?

I would check out price range for same production year and mileage, then make an offer at the lower end. Throw in a few hundred more if dealer is still offering remainder of new car warranty and other perks
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Old 04-05-2013, 12:02 PM   #31
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Be absolutely certain to negotiate net price.

By that I mean net of any additional charges such as administration fees, dealer prep, security package....whatever.

Last time I negotiated for a new car, 17 years ago, we did the deal like that and then the dealer tried to sneak in another 700 dollars for PDI. I walked. A day later we did the deal at the price negotiated. Nor were they very happy when I said no to the $1000. extended warranty.

DW's car was purchased used from a dealer a few years ago. It took us 3 months to find the 'right' car. We agreed to a price. Then they added a $250. administration fee. I felt ripped off. We needed the car. We will never deal with that dealership again-for either a new or a used vehicle.

You have two big sticks. You have the money. You have the ability to walk away.

Understand the market but do not be afraid to use these attribrutes to your advantage. But never forget...the dealer does have to make a profit otherwise they won't be in business in a few months to honor your warranty.
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Old 04-05-2013, 12:16 PM   #32
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Great advice and comments. Thanks!

Car buying is very tough. My 2010 Jetta TDI has a kbb value of 16k.

I'd love to be a one car family pushing for ER, but I travel a lot for work (they give me $500/mo for my car after taxes). I need the car to drive somewhere for days on end - and that leaves the wife With no car. My car is paid off.

If my Jetta could fit the jogger in the trunk I'd let her have that and I'd get a tiny car with good mpg. I'm looking at these Honda Fits- but not sure if the trunk space is enough and they still run 19k new.

Should I follow MMM and get a 2004 forester? I'm lost.
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Old 04-05-2013, 01:17 PM   #33
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I don't know much about strollers... but maybe you're looking at buying the wrong thing. That is find a new stroller instead of a car.

I found this ( google of course ). It folds up and fits in a compact trunk. Got to be cheaper than a car.

Does anyone have pic of the Baby Jogger City Mini - Car Seat.Org - Carseat, Automobile & Child Passenger Safety Community Forums
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