Tricks for Unscrewing Rusty Screws?

calmloki said:
Those fiberglass corrugated sheets don't look like savers to me - especially after you have them off and with screw holes and cracks. Your recip saw and a nasty demo blade and cutting through the wiggle board joint sounds like the best plan. Waste no time on it. The wood from the framing is what looks like keeper stuff to me.
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bushpilot said:
Rip them out and toss them, not worth trying to save. And I save everything I can.
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What they said.
 
This project is long finished and done with, right?
 
LOL! said:
This project is long finished and done with, right?
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I am really curious what worked and what didn't. Hoping for an update soon.

I think the forum members here have probably put more combined time into this project than T-Al will in tearing those sheds down! :)

But that's OK, I learned something along the way. Might pick up some of those left hand drill bits.

-ERD50
 
Amazing. Such "overkill" ideas. it's only screws in fiberglass panels, which are junk.
1. Use drill with "new" drill bit. (if fails) then.
2. Lock grip pliers

My concern, would be to try and save the "wave" trim under the fiberglass, if you are going to replace the fiberglass panels.

However, new material panels, polycarbonate and vinyl, have different "waves".
 
I'm assuming you can't get the Phillips head screwdriver into the screw channels. Therefore, I would use my Dewalt Multitool and cut off the heads. Trying not to cut the panels. Remove the panels and either remove the screws with pliers or cut the remaining screw all the way down to the wood.
 
PJHawk said:
I'm assuming you can't get the Phillips head screwdriver into the screw channels. Therefore, I would use my Dewalt Multitool and cut off the heads. Trying not to cut the panels. Remove the panels and either remove the screws with pliers or cut the remaining screw all the way down to the wood.
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If you plan on re-using the "waves", leaving the cut screws in, will get in the way of attaching new panels. :)
 
A small nuclear detonation...just a small one. Centered around each screw. I think that should take care of it. We don't have the technology yet to concentrate the blast, but it should be here in a few years. Just post a question like this and you'll get all the good ideas. The screws would become nuclear waste, but that's someone else's problem. You must weigh the pros and cons.
 
sengsational said:
A small nuclear detonation...just a small one. Centered around each screw. I think that should take care of it. We don't have the technology yet to concentrate the blast, but it should be here in a few years. Just post a question like this and you'll get all the good ideas. The screws would become nuclear waste, but that's someone else's problem. You must weigh the pros and cons.
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That idea does have some merit, but as you say, the OP may not want to wait years for the technology to become available. There could be permitting issues as well.

May I suggest that he have a carbide cutting bit custom ground to a profile that would allow him to cut away into the top of the head of the screw, exposing clean metal. Then weld new hex nuts onto each screw, welding through the hole in the nut. The hex heads would make it easy to remove each screw. Job is done!

I suggest we keep coming up with increasingly difficult and complex methods, until T-Al reports back on what actually worked. Heck, we aren't even up to 100 posts yet. :)

-ERD50
 
I've had some luck with removing damaged screws by chucking a drill bit directly onto the head of the screw then reversing it out. Sometimes it works.
 
kcowan said:
Does anyone else use brass screws for outdoor work?
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I've got a whole box of them that I inherited from my late FIL, but I use stainless steel fasteners now.
 
Fire. The fiberglass should go quickly, then T-Al can easily grab the newly exposed screw heads with vice grips and turn them out. No, wait.. He wanted to save the panels. So that's backwards and the removal process needs to be reversed. Freeze the shed, then use expando-pliers to turn the screws in. More tools to buy:
 
calmloki said:
Fire. The fiberglass should go quickly, then T-Al can easily grab the newly exposed screw heads with vice grips and turn them out. No, wait.. He wanted to save the panels. So that's backwards and the removal process needs to be reversed. Freeze the shed, then use expando-pliers to turn the screws in. More tools to buy:
Click to expand...

i was assuming the sheeting was old and had reduced flexibilty ( and the wiggle board underneath would reduce sheet movement where the movement would been most needed )

... i wonder how T-Al is going with the removal project
 
I'd just bust it up with a sledge and toss it inna trash.
 
kcowan said:
Does anyone else use brass screws for outdoor work?
Click to expand...

If I cared about the outdoor use, I would use stainless. I’d use brass indoors for appearance.
 
Jerry1 said:
If I cared about the outdoor use, I would use stainless. I’d use brass indoors for appearance.
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Agreed. Brass will tarnish in various ways, may leave stains. Stainless stays clean and bright.

T-AL, an update, please!

-ERD50
 
For attaching patio panels, we use 1 1/2 in, lag bolt with washer. This eliminates the problem people are having removing rusted out screws.
 
I cleaned the sheds up, and I've placed this Craigslist ad:

https://humboldt.craigslist.org/zip/d/trinidad-two-free-woodsheds-disassembly/6944479171.html [I deleted the post since someone is coming tomorrow.]

01616_lVw7kLMnTBT_1200x900.jpg


I wonder if I'll get any takers.
 
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Keep track of how many calls you get asking if you will deliver?


And of course- "I can send you a check with some extra money, just give the extra to the truck driver so he has gas money. I am buying this as a gift for my father, but I can't talk right now because I am on a submarine!"
 
Got a bite already!

Talked to the guy—he's coming tomorrow!
 
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All gone.

WAmktfk.png


The guy spent a few hours. He's going to use half for a woodshed, and half for a rabbit hutch.

He used his Sawzall to cut between the wiggle board and the support.
 
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