Tricks for Unscrewing Rusty Screws?

This thread is ridiculous because the screws will just come right out because they are screwed into wood which doesn't rust. The fiberglass ain't holding them in because it doesn't rust either. Any old screwdriver will get the screws out. if the heads happen to break off then once the panel is removed vice grips can probably be used to unscrew the shaft.
 
This thread is ridiculous because the screws will just come right out because they are screwed into wood which doesn't rust. The fiberglass ain't holding them in because it doesn't rust either. Any old screwdriver will get the screws out. if the heads happen to break off then once the panel is removed vice grips can probably be used to unscrew the shaft.


Perhaps we should have a poll on "how many early-retirement.org members does it take to remove a stuck screw".

Anyway, just to add to the confusion my suggestion is Vampliers. The link is to the search on Amazon because there are many different types. You can get the whole collection for only $128!:LOL:

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=vamplier...7&sprefix=vamplier,aps,522&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_3_8
 
I like the Vampliers! They even have a locking pair. I'm going to put a camelcamelcamel watch on them and get me a pair. Maybe a prime day deal.
 
First try with the impact screwdriver didn't work. I'll play with it some more.

I'll use this next, thanks for the idea.

TheTool_1000.jpg
 
I like the Vampliers! They even have a locking pair. I'm going to put a camelcamelcamel watch on them and get me a pair. Maybe a prime day deal.

But what about when your issue involves garlic or crucifixes? The vampliers will be useless. :D
 
First try with the impact screwdriver didn't work. I'll play with it some more.

I'll use this next, thanks for the idea.
Those impact type screwdrivers don't work too well on something that is flexible, like a wood structure. Back in the day, they were invaluable in working on motorcycles.
 
This thread is ridiculous because the screws will just come right out because they are screwed into wood which doesn't rust. The fiberglass ain't holding them in because it doesn't rust either. Any old screwdriver will get the screws out. if the heads happen to break off then once the panel is removed vice grips can probably be used to unscrew the shaft.

usually it is the screw-head that is the problem , some become very brittle but don't always fail so completely the fibre-glass is simple to remove

once the fibre-glass is removed vice-grips ( locking pliers ) will work nicely

arguably drilling a hole BIGGER than the screws ( into the fibre-glass ) using a hole-saw , would work also but might reduce the ability of the fibre-glass to be reused ,

as i understand it reusing the fibre-glass is an important goal
 
Not to thread highjack, but has anyone figured out how to unscrew a pregnant woman?
Asking for a friend.....
 
arguably drilling a hole BIGGER than the screws ( into the fibre-glass ) using a hole-saw , would work also but might reduce the ability of the fibre-glass to be reused ,

as i understand it reusing the fibre-glass is an important goal

That's why God gave us washers.
 
yes but the sheeting pictured is corrugated ( rippled ) meaning there is a practical limit to the washer size especially if weather resistance is a priority

if used in a green-house/hot-house a little leakage might even be a bonus

( some of those neoprene washers don't last that long , compared to the sheeting )

and of course those lead-headed nails of old are very much out of fashion ( at least in Australia )
 
I'm with the earlier posts to push the panel down a bit, grab the head of the screw with a vice grips (tightly - the screw should crunch some, making it kind of square-ish, so it won't slip when turned), and unscrew it, or maybe just break it off, whichever is easiest.

I really think that will be far easier, and probably less damage to the panel than a saw or drill. Try using a flat nail-pulling bar to flatten the panel down, or maybe a small metal sheet with a hole drilled into it a bit larger than the screw head? Put some weight on that to provide a little space for the vice-grips to grab.

edit/add: I went back and looked at the first pics - OK, if you can get between the "wiggle board" and the 2x4 (away from the panel) with a reciprocating saw, that should work too. But I'd use a sawz-all style, those little reciprocating saws are for more light duty work, I think. I have that same "plunge style" saws, I haven't used it much, it is good for some things, but I don't think it is a match for a sawz-all style for rough work like this.

-ERD50
 
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Why? The screws are into wood, I don't think the problem is them being stuck in the wood, the problem is the heads are so rusted that a screwdriver doesn't hold in what is remains.

-ERD50

oops - was I supposed to read the entire first post?

:LOL:
 
With a Sawzall, I would be concerned about damaging the fiberglass as one would need a long blade. Keeping control of the tip oscillating back and forth is not easy IMO.

I'm with the one poster who questioned whether to re-cycle the panels at all.
 
There's an old trick of using a powdered abrasive like valve-lapping compound on the tip of the screwdriver to enhance its grip in the screw. You might try an abrasive cleanser as a substitute -- it might work in a pinch.

Irwin-Hanson makes a kit of female reverse-fluted screw extractors that I've found very effective in removing rounded screws, broken bolts and studs. Here's a link to a merchant. https://www.mrosupply.com/tools/power-tools/power-tool-accessories/drill-bits/screw-extractors/2089792_394100_irwin-tools/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA&gclid=Cj0KCQjwyLDpBRCxARIsAEENsrLZnjYkZQbIkVqe-PTPqTJ2KkQ7Jfi-HLbekmAEBxFO-bymw1Gh9G4aAuvyEALw_wcB
 
The best thing I have used for anything rusty is PB Blaster. A good spray and wait 5-10 minutes. However that roofing is too far gone for that to work. Locate a drill bit called Easy-out. It is inexpensive. Every mechanic has one because it is so useful and it works. It will get the screws out without you cutting and breathing fiberglass dust.


Cheers!
 
oops - was I supposed to read the entire first post?

:LOL:

Heavens no! Just look at the pictures! :)



The best thing I have used for anything rusty is PB Blaster. A good spray and wait 5-10 minutes. However that roofing is too far gone for that to work. Locate a drill bit called Easy-out. It is inexpensive. Every mechanic has one because it is so useful and it works. It will get the screws out without you cutting and breathing fiberglass dust.


Cheers!

Hey, you too! ;)

Look at the pictures. Are you seriously going to center punch a small diameter, rusty old screw, drill what would need to be a small diameter hole in that screw (which is probably a pretty hard/brittle metal), and apply a small diameter Easy-Out to each one?

This calls for brute force methods, not precision surgery.

-ERD50
 
Look at the pictures. Are you seriously going to center punch a small diameter, rusty old screw, drill what would need to be a small diameter hole in that screw (which is probably a pretty hard/brittle metal), and apply a small diameter Easy-Out to each one?

This calls for brute force methods, not precision surgery.

-ERD50
If the screws are that hard/brittle then brute force would work well. The easiest would be to just hit each screw head with a hammer and if it is brittle then it would just break the head and you could lift the fiberglass panel off.


Cheers!
 
OP might want to try left handed drill bits. If you can drill the head off, then great. More likely you might just take a bite into the screw and unscrew it. Not sure where you could find one at your local box store. It looks like Harbor Freight has a set. I'd even try giving the screw a good rap with a center punch to help break the bonds between the rusty screw and the wood.

Disclaimer: I've never used this method myself. Based on my poor experiences, Easy-Outs are more appropriately named Easy-Breaks.
 
Rip them out and toss them, not worth trying to save. And I save everything I can.
 
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