Build quotes for new 2 car garage

[doneat54]

FINALLY. The garage doors arrived and were installed today. I am beyond thrilled that they were available in that color and trim..... I made the doors on the barn myself before even starting this garage. How cool is that? We upgraded to a better quality door beyond what the project allowance was. Was $6600 for both doors installed I think, includes torsion spring openers with WiFi controlled lifters. I can use an app on my phone to open them.

Only the interior door between the garage and the shop needs to be installed now, and the project will be done with regards to the contractor's spec. I find it amazing that they have only asked for and collected about 1/3 of the cost so far.

Few weeks ago I had the guy who did the site work come in and put in a 3/4 minus gravel driveway. He scraped it out, and brought in two 20 ton dumptruck loads of gravel. It is graded so it can be top layered with asphalt should I decide to go that route. Still uncertain of the long term plan for this property, but for the next 2-5 years it will do. Primary home will be listed in the spring and DW retires May 6!

 

[Ronstar]

^^Very nice!

 

[NewEnglander]

+1 on a ceiling mounted electric heater.

I built my 2.5 bay exterior garage about 25 years ago. At that time I installed a 60,000 BTU propane direct vent furnace. It was fine but it did require yearly maintenance , I had to replace the pilot assembly and thermocouples numerous times. After 25 years the unit was getting rusted so I bought a Comfort Zone 5000W electric heater from Amazon. It looks similar to the mentioned Fahrenheat FUH54. I had a subpanel in the garage so it was easy to add the 240V 30amp breaker. Extremely easy install, the build quality is fine and the price is excellent. It does a fine job heating my 24 X26 insulated garage even when its below freezing outside. I wish I had just done this 25 years ago. I would have saved myself considerable hassle with the propane heater. Plus I gained the wall & floor space where the propane heat was installed!

 

[doneat54]

A little update. The primary home in MA is now under contract for a June close, so steps to move permanently to the lake house now well under way. Today the 1957 VW Beetle made its final, permanent trip to the new garage, the Benz is already here (hiding behind sheets of plywood in the pic). The '56 VW truck is not presently running and will be trailered here in the coming weeks.

Back workshop (a separately heatable space) is in move in condition with workbenches built, shelves and LED lighting up. Plan is to finish the insulation and walls in the main garage this year. Strong sale of the MA home has allowed us to appropriate some good funds to finishing this garage and paving a driveway to it. Building a modest lake facing deck off the back is on the spreadsheet too.

 

[street]

Very nice!

 

[Ronstar]

Very nice!

+1. Enjoy!

 

[pacergal]

Looks great.

 

[doneat54]

Figured I'd post an update. DW retired last summer and we sold the primary home in MA last year also. Now fully retired, full time at the lake. New shop is now fully functional. Rear shop with heat and AC. In modest cool weather I can heat the whole garage but until I insulate and drywall it, lots of heat is lost (furnace is only 44k BTU).

Tried snowbirding this past winter and it kind of worked for a while, but I got stir crazy not being able to "do stuff" and ran back home early Feb. Found that with nothing to really do outside, I could get REALLY productive with my hobby/business in the vintage car hobby, using just the back shop. Re-thinking what to do this coming winter.

Had a back door put in the back shop facing the lake thinking that maybe one day a deck or patio out there. Nice view of the lake anyway from the windows.

 

[MarieIG]

Yes, I can see the lake through the window and door. It sure looks good!

 

[MC Rider]

Looks good DoneAT54!


I did not see this thread before. We are awaiting permits to do a steel pre fab garage which will be a good deal less dinero than stick built for 20 x 25. Still not remotely cheap and for sure BTD for us. C'mon County Bldg Dept, approve our permits!

 

[MC Rider]

This thread is pretty old, but 3 days ago they finally put up our steel garage. I plan to do insulation and some kind of interior finish myself. Not planning to heat or cool it.

I am thinking foamboard insulation. Anyone have ideas on what sort of R value would be sufficient? This stuff can be expensive! and then I need drywall. Or something.

Anyway I think it looks good but still needs a vehicle door and electric.

 

[wmc1000]

Looks good! What I used is 3" EPS board and 1/2" drywall. Had 1/2" EPS between metal and frame as a thermal break also because I do heat and cool my building.

 

[MC Rider]

Looks good! What I used is 3" EPS board and 1/2" drywall. Had 1/2" EPS between metal and frame as a thermal break also because I do heat and cool my building.

Interesting thought. If I just put foam panels between the studs, there will be a bunch of thermal bridges. But your idea covers that.



It's a big DIY job but I have time to figure out what I want to do, and I can eat the elephant one bite at a time.

 

[pb4uski]

I used Rockwool to insulate my garage. Actually, sprayfoam for roof and gable ends of the loft and Rockwool for the ground floor. Then vapor barrier and then OSB. I like the OSB because if I want to hang something on the wall it is easy and I don't have to find a stud.

If thermal bridging is a concern you could Rockwool the cavities, then foamboard and then OSB.

 

[MC Rider]

I used Rockwool to insulate my garage. Actually, sprayfoam for roof and gable ends of the loft and Rockwool for the ground floor. Then vapor barrier and then OSB. I like the OSB because if I want to hang something on the wall it is easy and I don't have to find a stud.

If thermal bridging is a concern you could Rockwool the cavities, then foamboard and then OSB.

So many options.


That is an advantage to OSB. Thinking about ship lap boards, they would be easier to handle for little old me. Should look good too.

 

[doneat54]

x2 on the OSB (or just a BX plywood). Roll it with whatever paint you can get for cheap. Drywall screw it to the studs and unlike drywall, if you have to get back into the wall to add wiring, air lines, whatever, you can just take the panels off.


I still haven't insulated and drywalled the main garage. I am trying to find someone reasonable to do it, with MY materials, MY drywall lift, and they all want $200-$250 and hour to work. I have done it myself in my last shop, and could do it myself again, but at this point in my life, I'd rather just pay someone a reasonable rate to do it.


Nice job on the steel building MC Rider.

 

[street]

Not much help in what to use but that is one nice garage. Wow!!! Nice!!

 

[pb4uski]

x2 on the OSB (or just a BX plywood). Roll it with whatever paint you can get for cheap. Drywall screw it to the studs and unlike drywall, if you have to get back into the wall to add wiring, air lines, whatever, you can just take the panels off. ...

Yes! After I had done the walls, DW deciided that she wanted a spigot outside. It was a rather simple matter to unfasten the OSB and take it off, put in the pex for the spigot and then put the OSB back the way it was. Easy peasy.

 

[MC Rider]

Drywall. 2 strikes!


Thanks for the input.

 

[LateToFIRE]

So, what was your all-in $$$ total?

 

[street]

If it were me and you are not heating/cooling it. I would leave as is no R factor would be necessary. If wanting to hang on walls I would use your support beams and fasten wood horizontal across them for supporting hanging purposes. Just me though. Save some $ too.

 

[finnski1]

If it were me and you are not heating/cooling it. I would leave as is no R factor would be necessary. If wanting to hang on walls I would use your support beams and fasten wood horizontal across them for supporting hanging purposes. Just me though. Save some $ too.

+1

 

[wmc1000]

Interesting thought. If I just put foam panels between the studs, there will be a bunch of thermal bridges. But your idea covers that.



It's a big DIY job but I have time to figure out what I want to do, and I can eat the elephant one bite at a time.

Since I had a post frame as opposed to metal frame construction, I left a 1.5" dead air space between the outer 1/2" EPS thermal break and the interior 3" EPS between the posts. After I did the drywall, it leaves a 1.5" difference between the drywall and post fronts so I can attach a regular 2x4 with 6" screws to the underlying girts in the wall and it gives me a flat mounting area across the face of the wall. See pic, sorry it is a bit messy right now!

 

[pb4uski]

If it were me and you are not heating/cooling it. I would leave as is no R factor would be necessary. If wanting to hang on walls I would use your support beams and fasten wood horizontal across them for supporting hanging purposes. Just me though. Save some $ too.

Good point. +1 if he isn't heating it.

Since he talked about insulating it I assumed that he was heating it... my garage is heated though since we now snowbird the heater isn't used anymore.

 

[38Chevy454]

Insulation helps both hot and cold, even if no heat or cooling system. It also has a significant moderating effect on inside temps. If you live in an area where you have much humidity, the building will sweat on inside on those cool spring mornings, the walls and also anything inside the garage that is cooler than the dewpoint. Insulation will help that sweating a lot, but leaving an air gap from the outer metal is smart. Agree completely with using OSB or similar instead of drywall. OSB is nice because you can access behind if needed, and you can mount things directly to it. Drywall need to be careful mounting things. Plus in a garage, bump the drywall and it seems to dent or make a hole; OSB is much better resistance. Paint first coat with oil base Kilz or similar, it will soak it up but keep from layers lifting on the surface. Can topcoat with whatever you want, look at the store for mistint paint for cheap.

Spray foam is easy and very effective R-value, but costly. Rigid foam has good R-value and is something you can DIY. Since you don't have conventional 16 inch or 24 inch spacing on walls, using traditional fiberglass or rockwool is going to be more work. I would go with the rigid foam panels covered with OSB if DIY.