When to Get an A/C Recharge for Car?

[easysurfer]

My cars seems to need an A/C recharge about every 3 years.

I'm going to be driving out of state in a few months. I looked at my auto repair log (yeah, I keep a spreadsheet) and see the last recharge was about 3 years ago and again about 3 years earlier.

I went out shopping today in over 90 degree heat. Had the A/C on, cranked it up all the way. Cold air does blow out at all levels (thought at first setting could be cooler).

Debating now, should I bring in and most likely get a re-charge? Since close to that time anyhow.

Or should I roll the dice and hope the A/C doesn't go out during the trip and I don't end up sweating it out on the freeway?

 

[ExFlyBoy5]

Murphy's Law would apply IMHO. I would get it checked now as opposed to waiting.

Seems odd that you are having to have it recharged so often. In thinking back to past cars and how long we have owned them (10 years, 6 years, 9 years being longest) we have NEVER had to have the systems recharged.

 

[HawkeyeNFO]

Sounds like you're leaking somewhere faster than normal. My 2003 chevy didn't need a "recharge" until last year.

It's super easy to do this work yourself. It's about $30 a can at Home Depot (yes, Home Depot), or any auto parts store. Just buy a can and take it with you on the trip.

With about 5 minutes of work, your a/c should be nice and cold:
1- buy a can with the connection hose, like this: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...4/7010015-P?searchTerm=a/c r-134a refrigerant
2- open the hood
3- follow directions on the can
4- when it's nice and cold, disconnect the hose and can
5- close hood
6- drive and chill

 

[DaveInMi]

I worked for a couple of auto companies in the area of HVAC.
Here are some tips on whether A/C is working or not.
If, in fresh air mode, you get fog (water vapor) coming out of vents continuously, you likely have a leak.
If you crank up blower to high, fresh air mode, vent mode, A/C on, vehicle idling, check for differences between vent air temperatures. If significant temp differences, then you may be low on refrigerant.
If you think you have a leak, but don't know where, at night, pop the hood and shine a black light around all the hoses and connections. If fluorescent colors show up (refrigerant oil is fluorescent), that is the likely leak point.
Notes 1. Lawfully, the refrigerant should be recovered by a special machine before the repair is made.
2. Adding too much refrigerant (no easy way to determine volume of refrigerant in system), can make A/C run poorly, effect fuel economy, and damage the compressor. If adding refrigerant from a can, add it in small increments and check performance.

 

[Car-Guy]

Sounds like a really slow leak but in any case, I think you really have answered your own question. You know you need to recharge the AC every three years by your own experience and records. It's not cooling well now. That three years is up now. You are going on a trip in a few months (and it's probably going to be even hotter)... Answer: get it charged and/or fixed now.

 

[easysurfer]

Sounds like a really slow leak but in any case, I think you answered your own question. You know you need to recharge the AC every three years by your own records. It's not cooling well now. That three years is up now. You are going on a trip in a few months (and it's probably going to be even hotter)... Answer: get it charged and/or fixed.

I hate typos. My fingers have a mind of their own. I'm actually going out of state in a few weeks, not months.

I'm going to get the AC recharged before going. Better safe than sorry as I keep on thinking don't want to be stuck in a traffic jam cooking in my car with low AC.

 

[Car-Guy]

I hate typos. My fingers have a mind of their own. I'm actually going out of state in a few weeks, not months.

I'm going to get the AC recharged before going. Better safe than sorry as I keep on thinking don't want to be stuck in a traffic jam cooking in my car with low AC.

Sounds right to me.. Not much fun driving around in a hot (temps) car.

 

[travelover]

I worked for a couple of auto companies in the area of HVAC.
Here are some tips on whether A/C is working or not.
If, in fresh air mode, you get fog (water vapor) coming out of vents continuously, you likely have a leak.
If you crank up blower to high, fresh air mode, vent mode, A/C on, vehicle idling, check for differences between vent air temperatures. If significant temp differences, then you may be low on refrigerant.
If you think you have a leak, but don't know where, at night, pop the hood and shine a black light around all the hoses and connections. If fluorescent colors show up (refrigerant oil is fluorescent), that is the likely leak point.
Notes 1. Lawfully, the refrigerant should be recovered by a special machine before the repair is made.
2. Adding too much refrigerant (no easy way to determine volume of refrigerant in system), can make A/C run poorly, effect fuel economy, and damage the compressor. If adding refrigerant from a can, add it in small increments and check performance.

My hero, , Scotty Kilmer says to never use the refrigerant from cans with a leak stop additive. Any validity to that?

 

[EastWest Gal]

DH's van (2006 Dodge Caravan) is needing a recharge every two years. We know there is a leak. Thanks for the tip about the black light, and finding leaks. We may be replacing the vehicle in the next couple of years anyway.

I'm curious about the leak stop additive issue. Please share what you have learned.

 

[RobbieB]

Let's see...fix the AC before the summer heat trip or not?

Fix it, don't cook yourself!

 

[DaveInMi]

My hero, , Scotty Kilmer says to never use the refrigerant from cans with a leak stop additive. Any validity to that?

Would only use OEM parts. The leak stop additive could gum up the compressor control valve (variable displacement compressor) if equipped. They usually fail from some contamination in the max compressor flow position and the evaporator will turn into a block of ice.

There is OEM approved refrigerant dye if you need extra help locating the leak.

 

[Walt34]

OP has a leak somewhere although since it takes three years for the effects to show up it may be near impossible to find. I've never had to recharge a car A/C system.

One of the things I like a lot about my 2003 GMC pickup truck is that the A/C is terrific, due in large part I'm sure because that big front end allows room for a gigunda condenser. The A/C in the Honda Accord doesn't work nearly as well, again I'm sure because the condenser is smaller and the passenger cabin volume is larger. The result is that on the hottest of summer days we'll take the truck if we have to go somewhere.

 

[NW-Bound]

Some of my cars had an AC that leaked like a sieve. Some, no problem for years.

I envy those who have never had a problem with refrigerant loss, ever. I did not even know that it was possible.

 

[HF63]

Before you add any refrigerant, check the condition of your cabin filter first.


Buy a small thermometer and drive the car w/ the AC on for few errands and notice what the temperature is. A good working AC will be about 40 degrees.


If low attach the refrigerant hose add in small increments and notice the temperature drop in the thermometer. Only add enough to get you to 40-44 degrees, overcharge will not cool too.

 

[folivier]

It's a bit more complicated than that. You are looking for a diffference in the ambient temperature and the temp coming out of your cooling vent while the AC is on max cooling with engine running. You also need to take the ambient temp. into account when refilling. The gauge on the refill cans has a moveable dial to set the ambient temp. Not difficult to do, just need to do it correctly. It should all be in the directions. Typically you should get a 30-40 degree difference.

Before you add any refrigerant, check the condition of your cabin filter first.


Buy a small thermometer and drive the car w/ the AC on for few errands and notice what the temperature is. A good working AC will be about 40 degrees.


If low attach the refrigerant hose add in small increments and notice the temperature drop in the thermometer. Only add enough to get you to 40-44 degrees, overcharge will not cool too.

 

[aaronc879]

Every 3 years? I can't imagine why that would be neccessary. My Forester was bought new in 2004 and still blows colder AC than in any other car I have been in with no recharge the whole 17 years. My 2012 Nissan was a Texas car and it is a little light on the AC coldness so maybe a recharge would make sense now after 9 years but every 3.......? That said, if the cost is pocket change to you then do it to stay comfy on your drive.

 

[Jerry1]

When you get back from your trip, I would get the leak fixed. Nothing should be leaking from a vehicle. Every three years is a leak. There are no gremlins eating the refrigerant.

 

[Aerides]

I have never even heard of doing an AC recharge for a car, and I live in Florida and keep cars for 10 years.

 

[ncbill]

My SUV is up to twice a year now...known issue with the evaporator...fixing would require complete disassembly/reassembly of the dashboard, so it's cheaper to recharge.

 

[travelover]

I have never even heard of doing an AC recharge for a car, and I live in Florida and keep cars for 10 years.

I think Florida is exempt from AC refrigerant leaks. Might be a state law.

 

[Koolau]

I had to do a recharge and did figure out how to do it - with help. Forget the cost but the $30 someone suggested sounds about right. IIRC, the can comes with a gauge that tells when you've added "enough." There was a lot left in the can, so it should be good for maybe 2 or 3 more recharges. Also, IIRC MY car has two nipples and you need to know which one to use. I think I went to AutoZone and they told me which one when I bought the can. YMMV

 

[pjigar]

2. Adding too much refrigerant (no easy way to determine volume of refrigerant in system), can make A/C run poorly, effect fuel economy, and damage the compressor. If adding refrigerant from a can, add it in small increments and check performance.

I have over charged AC from those cans! Don't get greedy is you use the can.

 

[CRLLS]

The last time I had car A/C problems, I got the full setup, a manifold gauge set, vacuum pump etc. The actual cans of R-134 (12 oz) are relatively cheap at <$7 each. I had a leaky Schrader valve that could not be replaced. I had to change the A/C line. Still, all in, I paid less than I would have to have it refilled at a shop. I loaned the manifold set to a friend once. Now the tools just sit in my tool cabinet collecting dust, waiting for my ongoing car build to need it. If you are a DIY mechanic, I recommend getting the right tools. A/C systems rarely need refilling/repair, but when they do, it is good to have the right tools.

 

[stephenson]

Can a DIY replace lines, valves etc without releasing chemicals into the environment without a professional refrigerant recovery system? May vary by state?

If refrigerant is gone after three years, it is leaking out - through seals - shaft or outer, through threaded fittings, etc - there is no magic. Further, it sounds like no one has fixed the issue, simply added more refrigerant, that leaks out. Maybe cheaper to refill, but this process is one of those that caused significant ozone layer damage. It used to be done by the millions of systems with R12, and while newer refrigerants are safer, they are still damaging.

 

[Sunset]

I've never had my A/C leak , as far as I can tell.
Our 23 yr old camry, is an icebox for it's ability to freeze us, best one I've ever experienced.

I do appreciate all the info on A/C refilling, as nobody knows what the future holds.