Your recent repair? 2013 - 2020

[Ronstar]

Your recent repair?

It's non-stop maintenance/repair here for the next month.

Just finished a 130' drainage tile for downspout and front yard drainage.
Just finished some regrading and reseeding.
Repaired a sprinkling system circuit to water the reseeded area.
Sawed down 2 trees
Tearing out old detached garage service door and replacing with a new one.
Installed a rain diverter on the garage roof to divert rainfall from falling from roof in front of service door.
Installing a reverse osmosis filter / re plumb kitchen sink cold water to softened water
Pressure wash paver walkways and fill joints with polymeric sand
Stain house overhang/caulk gaps.
Reset/patch exposed roofing nails in shingles.

Then I'll be ready for winter.



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[Al in Ohio]

My Outdoor air condensing unit quit working. I noticed the inside air had been running for hours, but the house was getting warmer. Felt the air temp and it was blowing warm air. Did some troubleshooting and got the outdoor fan to start by spinning it. This got me to thinking it was the starter capacitor. Then the scroll compressor wouldn't start either. A little google searching had me diagnose the problem for my model being the dual start capacitor that starts both fan and compressor. It's about the only part located inside the unit panel other than a relay. Called an HVAC contractor and they wanted $400 to come out on the weekend to replace it. I called my local Trane parts dealer and got a new one for $26. Took 15 minutes to replace. Unit runs fine and house is cold again.


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[Walt34]

Called an HVAC contractor and they wanted $400 to come out on the weekend to replace it. I called my local Trane parts dealer and got a new one for $26. Took 15 minutes to replace. Unit runs fine and house is cold again.

Wow, I'd blacklist that contractor! And if you have a Facebook, Twitter, etc. account I'd make sure to put up posts about that too.

Unless you're a several-hour drive out in the wilderness that's almost criminal overcharging.

 

[grasshopper]

New roof, Mueller Metal, put over 18 YO asphalt. 12 new double pane windows in our Arizona room. Ms G asked if we are still going to Galapagos/Machu Picchu, Hell yes says I.

 

[Revlefty]

Changed the garbage disposal. $300 -$400 job if done by a professional. The identical replacement unit was $80 at local hardware store. Took me about 45 minutes to do.

Me, too. Mine cost $89.00. That was a week ago and my wife told me this morning that it had clogged up already. My handy plunger did the trick.


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[Al in Ohio]

Wow, I'd blacklist that contractor! And if you have a Facebook, Twitter, etc. account I'd make sure to put up posts about that too.

Unless you're a several-hour drive out in the wilderness that's almost criminal overcharging.

$100 for the same part I bought for $26 (markup) plus $200 labor and $100 service call fee to get there. Pretty typical nowadays actually.


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[ejman]

Me, too. Mine cost $89.00. That was a week ago and my wife told me this morning that it had clogged up already. My handy plunger did the trick.


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I noticed when I replaced mine that the outlet pipe from the disposal and the trap it feeds into were quite clogged up with a grease like deposit. Used the opportunity to clean them out completely.

 

[samclem]

I noticed when I replaced mine that the outlet pipe from the disposal and the trap it feeds into were quite clogged up with a grease like deposit. Used the opportunity to clean them out completely.

Maybe that's what the plumber charges $300 to do.
I recall cleaning out floor drains when I worked in fast food. Nasty work, that is.
We rarely use our garbage disposal, most solid stuff goes right into the trash can. I think this significantly reduces the chances for drain problems and it's just as fast/convenient. I don't count the garbage disposal among the major advances in home technology.

 

[38Chevy454]

Not a repair, per se, but did the winterizing of my swamp cooler and switching over to heating mode. Being in dry climate, I do not have an air conditioner, just the evaporative (aka swamp) cooler which works good for relatively low cost to operate.

Next repair is replace the water pump in my 88 Ford truck, it started leaking and have the parts on order, so that will take up some of next weekend.

 

[ejman]

Maybe that's what the plumber charges $300 to do.
I recall cleaning out floor drains when I worked in fast food. Nasty work, that is.
We rarely use our garbage disposal, most solid stuff goes right into the trash can. I think this significantly reduces the chances for drain problems and it's just as fast/convenient. I don't count the garbage disposal among the major advances in home technology.

True enough - particularly in our case since we live in a rural area and have a septic system. Our old garbage disposal just died, wouldn't turn at all and then of course, things just backup in there so had no choice but to change it but I agree, a garbage disposal is not much of a particularly useful appliance. I'm not sure a dishwasher is either.

 

[ls99]

Replaced master cylinder and rear wheel cylinders on my 68 GTO. The master was leaking, and the wheel cylinders were not in spite of being very old same as master cyl. Since the system needs bleeding due to master cyl, I just replaced the wheel cylinders as well.

May have had to anyway. I usually find that bleeder screws are rusted in place. Sometimes a blow torch will loosen them, sometimes it won't. But I guess you knew that already

 

[travelover]

Spent the last couple of days installing a new radio with a display screen and backup camera in my SUV. The old radio worked fine, but I thought it would be nice to have a back up camera and to be able to play my iPod through the radio.

The worst part was stringing the power and video cables from the camera up through the lift gate hinge point and up to the front. The second worse part was mounting the radio itself. After market radios seem to be standardized, but manufacturers' radios are not, so there is a market for all kinds of crazy adapters to make them fit. I had to enlarge the hole in my dash, then found that the "adapter" was designed to click into place exactly once. Any subsequent removal required "removal of the instrument panel". I wasn't feeling that lucky, so I ended up bending up some aluminum to make my own adapter, which is removable.

My only disappointment is that the device has to boot up every time the engine is started, so it takes a while before the reverse camera is ready to use.

I also use a camera on the back of my travel trailer and will wire it so I can observe that camera as I drive.

 

[NW-Bound]

... We rarely use our garbage disposal, most solid stuff goes right into the trash can. I think this significantly reduces the chances for drain problems and it's just as fast/convenient. I don't count the garbage disposal among the major advances in home technology.

+1

After replacing the garbage disposal for the umpteenth time, I took it out and we did not miss it. We also rarely use our dishwasher. Washing dishes by hand does not take much longer than having to rinse the plates, then load and unload the machine. Washing clothes by hand, now that's a chore!

 

[NW-Bound]

The expensive Pfister kitchen faucet I installed less than 2 years ago leaked at the handle. I was cursing at the thought of having to crawl under the counter, besides having to spend another $200 for a replacement, when the thought of repairing it crossed my mind.

At the Web site of Pfister, I learned that the faucet got a lifetime warranty. Nice. So, I submitted a claim, and they sent me a replacement valve cartridge. I had not done this before, so fumbled for a bit before I figured out how to remove the decorative ring around the big nut holding in the cartridge. It got frozen due to the calcium deposit from the leak, and now got ugly scars from my plier. Now, I will have to see if I can get a replacement part from them...

A follow-up on the Pfister faucet.

I updated the claim on the leaky cartridge with a request for the decorative ring that got badly nicked on removal. On close examination, it proved to be a plastic part that was metallized. I sent a photo of it to be sure they would send me the right replacement. Yep, I got it in the mail a few days later.

Before reinstalling it, I smeared gobs of petroleum jelly onto the threads to make sure it will come off easily next time.

But now, another Pfister faucet in my bath vanity leaks!

 

[NW-Bound]

A week ago, my fridge ran out of ice. And the fridge panel flashed a code about the ice maker malfunction. Sigh...

OK, so this big 30 cu.ft. fridge is more than 12 years old. Maybe time to get a new one? Nah, just a new ice maker. GE wants $100, while on eBay I can get one for $50.

But, but, but before it stopped making ice, the ice maker had been turning out bitty ice pieces that looked more like slivers than crescents. Maybe it was just starved of water. Hmm... Could it be?

I have not replaced the fridge built-in water filter. Not once in its 12-year life. Heck, I have always had an RO filter, so what's there for another filter to do? But what if the filter gets finally all clogged up?

The fridge water dispenser failed a few years ago, and I have not bothered to fix it, else I would know if the water flow got stopped. Ah, it's no harm to replace the filter anyway, whether it's bad or not.

A replacement filter arrived after I spent $25 on eBay (shipping included). And now my ice bucket is full! So, that was the problem.

Life is good again once I have ice, despite the 95F temperature outside this late in the summer.

 

[samclem]

I have not replaced the fridge built-in water filter. Not once in its 12-year life. Heck, I have always had an RO filter, so what's there for another filter to do? But what if the filter gets finally all clogged up?

Good job. Since you really don't need the filter, you could try to just connect the "in" and "out" lines where the filter connects in the 'fridge (or make a bypass using an existing filter casing from which you've removed all the filter element stuff). This will not only prevent this from happening again but might also save your icemaker: The solenoid on the icemaker valve has to stay energized until the tray is full of water. It can burn out well before it should if it must stay energized for a long time because the flow rate to the icemaker is reduced (low water pressure/kinked line/blocked filter, etc)

 

[aja8888]

Daughter's Amana clothes dryer quit heating. Replaced the High-Low temp control above the heating element, the blown thermal fuse and all is good. Spent all of $24. Job took all of 30 minutes.

Replaced the air and cabin filters in the 2013 Hyundai Santa Fe (DW's car). Also changed oil and filter, added washer fluid, added air to tires. All this at 36K miles. Tire rotation is due at 40K, at which time I will look at the brake pads.

 

[Ronstar]

Clothes dryer problem here also. DW noticed a squealing sound coming from the dryer. I found a 3" wood screw wedged between the drum and dryer frame. got the screw out and everything runs fine. Then for fun I fired up the leaf blower and blew out the dryer vent duct.

 

[Texas Proud]

A week ago, my fridge ran out of ice. And the fridge panel flashed a code about the ice maker malfunction. Sigh...

OK, so this big 30 cu.ft. fridge is more than 12 years old. Maybe time to get a new one? Nah, just a new ice maker. GE wants $100, while on eBay I can get one for $50.

But, but, but before it stopped making ice, the ice maker had been turning out bitty ice pieces that looked more like slivers than crescents. Maybe it was just starved of water. Hmm... Could it be?

I have not replaced the fridge built-in water filter. Not once in its 12-year life. Heck, I have always had an RO filter, so what's there for another filter to do? But what if the filter gets finally all clogged up?

The fridge water dispenser failed a few years ago, and I have not bothered to fix it, else I would know if the water flow got stopped. Ah, it's no harm to replace the filter anyway, whether it's bad or not.

A replacement filter arrived after I spent $25 on eBay (shipping included). And now my ice bucket is full! So, that was the problem.

Life is good again once I have ice, despite the 95F temperature outside this late in the summer.

Before going with Samclem's suggestion... I would just suggest taking out the filter and see if it works.... it does for my fridge.... not filter needed at all....

 

[NW-Bound]

Rerouting the plumbing to bypass the filter or punching through its internal layers is not at all easy, considering the filter design and its location at the upper corner of a 32" deep fridge . Here's a Web photo of it.

And I did not try to open the water when the filter was out, thinking I would flood the fridge interior. Apparently, TexasProud's fridge has an automatic bypass valve, but I do not know if mine has that or not.

This filter is claimed to do all kinds of "good stuff", like catching cysts, heavy metals, etc... As it still gets clogged up being downstream from my RO filter, though it took 12 years, it is doing something.

Anyway, I am cheap so bought an aftermarket filter, but a genuine GE filter would set me back $50. They recommend replacing it every 6 months. So, if I followed that, at a 4% WR I would need to set aside $2500 in my stash just to feed filters to this fridge.

No way! But once every 12 years, I can afford it.

 

[samclem]

But once every 12 years, I can afford it.

Sounds like you've got things fixed. I've got a GE fridge and have something like this in place of the filter. It's just a bypass cap and it works great, frees up more room in the fridge, and allows use of a "stock" filter outside the fridge that is a lot cheaper to replace (like you,I have an RO system with prefilters that trap cysts, etc). Anyway, something to think about. I've heard it's not a good idea to leave a carbon filter in place for longer than 6 months to a year (even in a refrigerator) as they can become hosts to bacteria.

 

[Texas Proud]

Rerouting the plumbing to bypass the filter or punching through its internal layers is not at all easy, considering the filter design and its location at the upper corner of a 32" deep fridge . Here's a Web photo of it.

And I did not try to open the water when the filter was out, thinking I would flood the fridge interior. Apparently, TexasProud's fridge has an automatic bypass valve, but I do not know if mine has that or not.

This filter is claimed to do all kinds of "good stuff", like catching cysts, heavy metals, etc... As it still gets clogged up being downstream from my RO filter, though it took 12 years, it is doing something.

Anyway, I am cheap so bought an aftermarket filter, but a genuine GE filter would set me back $50. They recommend replacing it every 6 months. So, if I followed that, at a 4% WR I would need to set aside $2500 in my stash just to feed filters to this fridge.

No way! But once every 12 years, I can afford it.

Yes, there is a bypass.... mine is at the bottom of the fridge and you can pull it out without turning off the water...

I will admit that I did not wait 12 years, but only 5.... then small black pieces started showing up in the water and ice...


Funny thing is that we have a RO system at the sink that is MUCH better at filtering water.... but DW and the kids thinks the fridge filter is 'better'.... I just shake my head....

 

[twolfy]

Wow some really involved repairs going on here by many of you. Kudos for investigating and tackling those fixes. Just a small one here today. Replaced bathroom exhaust fan motor.


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[NW-Bound]

Thanks to Samclem and TexasProud for mentioning the possibility of bypassing the fridge water filter.

I looked and indeed could have gotten a cap to install in lieu of the filter. Price from eBay: $10, and it's made by GE!

I need to look into mentioned bacteria problem with an old filter. If bacteria is going to grow, why does it need 6 months? It could develop in a much quicker time than that.

 

[John Galt III]

Maintenance on the gf's Hyundai Elantra. I changed the oil and filter. All was well until I noticed a slow oil drip the next day. Got under it with flashlight. The leak is coming from the drain plug (bolt). Absolutely dry above the plug, and even above the pan. Dry under the new filter. But a nice fat drop hanging off the plug. It has a crush washer. I reused the existing crush washer. Hmmm. Maybe the crush washer has to be brand new each oil change? Most cars I change oil on don't even have crush washers, but if they do, I just reuse them, and they don't start leaking. Hmmm...