Your recent repair? 2013 - 2020
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Htown Harry
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What, no flames?
Shark teeth AND flames AND faux fender vents is the way to go on a Subaru.
papadad111
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Your recent repair?
Ha ha. We are discussing the faux hood scoop option now.
Per the instructions, which are in Chinese, this should add 800-1000 more unicorns under the bonnet. ...it depending if we cut a hole in the hood lid or keep the hood stock.
Being he is a teen driver, I'm nervous of handing him all that extra power.
Shark teeth AND flames AND faux fender vents is the way to go on a Subaru.
Ha ha. We are discussing the faux hood scoop option now.
Per the instructions, which are in Chinese, this should add 800-1000 more unicorns under the bonnet. ...it depending if we cut a hole in the hood lid or keep the hood stock.
Being he is a teen driver, I'm nervous of handing him all that extra power.
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Htown Harry
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At that price, I recommend the triple.
Also, don't underestimate the nearly unlimited horsepower potential in a good collection of aftermarket part stickers.
NW-Bound
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The above adornments work much better when accompanied by an actual modification to the exhaust system: removal of the stock muffer and replacing it with a bullet type that provides a 10-to-20 dB enhancement. Big and fat tires are the next item, if the budget allows. Be sure to put larger tires in the rear to enhance the stance of the car in addition to traction when under heavy acceleration from the stop lights.
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aja8888
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Once all the external performance enhancing features are installed, it's time for a boost in HP and fuel economy with one of these:
Htown Harry
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Subaru curb feelers are a nice add-on to any wagon. Ultra-stylish without going over the top. Bonus: they protect both the new custom paint job and the high-HP wheel set.
Htown Harry
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Papadad, I just realized the curb feeler pictures above also illustrate an important point often overlooked by the teen automobile enthusiast.
When posting a picture of your tricked-out ride as your Facebook profile pic, the babes are most likely to be impressed when you choose an expensive or eye-catching background. Good: airplanes, nice architecture, rainbows lined right up with The Pot of Gold. Bad: a parking lot with dilapidated commercial vehicles and bare trees.
When posting a picture of your tricked-out ride as your Facebook profile pic, the babes are most likely to be impressed when you choose an expensive or eye-catching background. Good: airplanes, nice architecture, rainbows lined right up with The Pot of Gold. Bad: a parking lot with dilapidated commercial vehicles and bare trees.
NW-Bound
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What? No magnet clamped around the fuel line to "polarize" the gasoline molecules for more complete combustion?
ls99
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Still need a stainless steel fart muffler for the complete package.
Rick_Head
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The plastic bottom transmission cover on my snowblower disintegrated so I made a new one out of sheet steel from a discarded LPG grille.
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Sunset
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I noticed the water heater pressure valve was leaking water.
First thought was since the tank is 15 yrs old, that it might be time for a replacement.
Naturally I searched and found these valves often go and are an easy fix.
So I followed the instructions, turned off the flame, ran hot water into the sink so the heater would be cooler and flushed the valve and it stopped leaking
Then I thought why not drain out some since its been yrs since doing that from the drain tap.
So I did and lots of stuff came out, but each time I tried to close the tap it would still dribble.
Finally I thought to turn off the input water so there is no churning of debris going on, then drained again and this time it ran clear and closed easily.
First thought was since the tank is 15 yrs old, that it might be time for a replacement.
Naturally I searched and found these valves often go and are an easy fix.
So I followed the instructions, turned off the flame, ran hot water into the sink so the heater would be cooler and flushed the valve and it stopped leaking
Then I thought why not drain out some since its been yrs since doing that from the drain tap.
So I did and lots of stuff came out, but each time I tried to close the tap it would still dribble.
Finally I thought to turn off the input water so there is no churning of debris going on, then drained again and this time it ran clear and closed easily.
zinger1457
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Replaced my gas water heater earlier this year, the thermocouple needed replacement and it was 18 years old so decided it was time. I found that there is a lot of junk that collects at the bottom of the heater that doesn't come out during the routine draining. Have to tip the water heater almost over on it's side to get all the junk out.
John Galt III
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Verrrry nice. Did you only have to replace the triangular piece?
aja8888
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Replaced DD's A/C - heater fan motor today in her 2001 ford Explorer.
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Well, that was the only new "wood". I edge-glued the PVC 1x6 to get an 11 inch width. Same glue as PVC pipe (really more of a weld than a glue). Anyway, some of the rake board was rotted to, so I plunge cut and carved away the rot on that board with an oscillating multi-tool, then filled it with Bondo.
As a tip for fixing wood rot, get a metal cutting blade for your oscillating saw since you're going to hit nails and fasteners.
Sitting on the toilet felt a drop of water on my back! After some snooping and research, there was condensate dripping once in a very long time from the vent fan overhead. Yeah, in the attic amongst the trusses with the 1-1/2 ft of insulation I added went the cheapo spiral wound plastic flex pipe, uninsulated once it came out of the fluff. How the builder had "attached" it to the roof vent waaaaaay up at the top was funny if not maddening. Anyway, spent several hours scabbing 2x4's across trusses, then made my way out to both bath vent fans and replaced with insulated flex pipe. A long time ago I put my feet through the ceiling of another house and the stress of climbing around knowing that potential at 64 made it stressful project. FYI I'm told that uninsulated flex pipe for this purpose doesn't meet code anymore. Also, removed, the mold and crud the condensate had spawned was nasty.
JoeWras
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Nice repair. I swore it was my house, except mine looks like the first picture. I may use your trick.
I realized why I thought you took a picture of my house. I think we both live in the same general area.
38Chevy454
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Put a new Power Steering pump in my 88 F-250 Diesel 4x4 pickup today. Had the day off work, and supposed to turn much colder in next week, although I did the work in the garage. Old P/S pump was making some loud groaning noises.
Had just put a new water pump in it about 2 months ago, guess this fall is the time to spend some repair time and money on the truck. I really have not done anything on it last couple years, so no real complaints. Nice thing is not my daily driver, so order the parts on Rockauto and then do the repair when I have the time convenient to me.
Had just put a new water pump in it about 2 months ago, guess this fall is the time to spend some repair time and money on the truck. I really have not done anything on it last couple years, so no real complaints. Nice thing is not my daily driver, so order the parts on Rockauto and then do the repair when I have the time convenient to me.
jazz4cash
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Home Warranty Update
So we're going into year 3 of our home warranty contract and so far I continue to be impressed. I spied a drop of water on the garbage disposal and the area under the unit was damp but not wet. I confirmed the leak was from the middle section of the disposal and not the pipes. According to youtube, a leak in this area means the disposal should be replaced. I've replaced this unit before and I was thinking the cost was around $60 bucks, but the best price I could find was around $90, so I called the home warranty company and they gave me the name of a local plumber. I was concerned they might attempt a repair or use a cheapo replacement. The plumber came out promptly and replaced the unit. He had the same model disposal on his truck (InSinkerator 3/4 hp) and my co-pay was $60 (plus $54/mo for the policy). Now I need to repair the sink cabinet bottom so if I do have any leaks in the future, the wood will not get damaged.
After the holiday, I need to file another claim for the icemaker. I think the water inlet solenoid is shot.
So we're going into year 3 of our home warranty contract and so far I continue to be impressed. I spied a drop of water on the garbage disposal and the area under the unit was damp but not wet. I confirmed the leak was from the middle section of the disposal and not the pipes. According to youtube, a leak in this area means the disposal should be replaced. I've replaced this unit before and I was thinking the cost was around $60 bucks, but the best price I could find was around $90, so I called the home warranty company and they gave me the name of a local plumber. I was concerned they might attempt a repair or use a cheapo replacement. The plumber came out promptly and replaced the unit. He had the same model disposal on his truck (InSinkerator 3/4 hp) and my co-pay was $60 (plus $54/mo for the policy). Now I need to repair the sink cabinet bottom so if I do have any leaks in the future, the wood will not get damaged.
After the holiday, I need to file another claim for the icemaker. I think the water inlet solenoid is shot.
jazz4cash
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Shower Control Valve Stuck
The house is 16 yrs old and the Delta shower control valve is leaking from the shower head when the valve is off. Delta has lifetime warranty on their hardware and they sent me a new cartridge which is a $40 part. I have the handle off , but I can't get the bonnet nut off of the valve. I have a pipe wrench and a pair of channel lock pliers for backup. It looks like I could twist the copper piles off before the nut will budge. I am trying to saturate the threads with WD40 and Rusteater but this is tough due to the orientation. I had a similar problem replacing the valves for the bathroom sink faucet but I finally got them free. Delta says to use white vinegar. I am considering filing a claim with the home warranty company which would cost me $60 bucks.
The house is 16 yrs old and the Delta shower control valve is leaking from the shower head when the valve is off. Delta has lifetime warranty on their hardware and they sent me a new cartridge which is a $40 part. I have the handle off , but I can't get the bonnet nut off of the valve. I have a pipe wrench and a pair of channel lock pliers for backup. It looks like I could twist the copper piles off before the nut will budge. I am trying to saturate the threads with WD40 and Rusteater but this is tough due to the orientation. I had a similar problem replacing the valves for the bathroom sink faucet but I finally got them free. Delta says to use white vinegar. I am considering filing a claim with the home warranty company which would cost me $60 bucks.
John Galt III
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I've had good results with Liquid Wrench, but not WD40. Had some success with white vinegar too. I think soaking overnight in Liq Wrench, getting it to budge, then soaking some more, repeat. And hopefully you won't have to soak the woodwork also, due to awkward orientation.
jazz4cash
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I've had good results with Liquid Wrench, but not WD40. Had some success with white vinegar too. I think soaking overnight in Liq Wrench, getting it to budge, then soaking some more, repeat. And hopefully you won't have to soak the woodwork also, due to awkward orientation.
Sprayed the nut real good and then made a "bowl" by tieing plastic bags around the valve. Filled the "bowl" with white vinegar and let it soak an hour or so. Came off fairly easily after that!
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