Zion-Bryce-Page-Grand Canyon trip report

Palmtree

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We just flew back yesterday from a 10 day trip to see the Grand Canyon and some of the National Parks out west. Our flight there was from Atlanta to Las Vegas.

Originally we were going to stay at the Bellagio, see the Cirque du Soleil show and spend a few days on the strip. With the increase of Covid cases and the lack of shows open on the days we were there, we changed our flight to later in the week, cancelled the hotel and got a full refund on the $200 each Cirque tickets. (Thank you Bellagio!)

So we flew in, picked up the rental car at the airport and headed out. Zion Park was our first experience to the parks out west. Impressive. Temp was 106 in the afternoon so we planned early morning hikes. We stayed in the park itself, in one of the cabins. Morning #1 we were up at 4:45am to be out the door at 5:45. We walked to the shuttle stop in the dark with flashlights & caught the 6:00am shuttle to the head of the trail to the Narrows. We were the first ones on the trail! Hiked one mile in the dark with headlamps until it was light enough to see. Then (with rented water boots and hiking staff) we spent 6 hours hiking the Narrows up and back. Being some of the first ones in the morning, it felt like we had the entire river to ourselves. Well, at least for the first hour or two.

The next morning was almost the same. Up at 4:45am to be out the door at 5:45. Started hiking up the Angels Landing trail in the dark with headlamps. Hiked one mile in the dark with headlamps until it was light enough to see. Once again, we were the first people on the trailhead. About the time we got to the "Walters Wiggles" switchbacks, we started getting passed by younger college-aged kids that were in much better shape and used to the higher attitudes. It's 1,500 from the bottom to the 5,800 feet summit so we were moving slow.

The final 1/2 mile to the summit of Angels Landing is the hardest and scariest. Hundreds of people do it a day, but you have to take it seriously. Since 2000, 13 people have died on the hike, including two in March. The wife took one look at it and said ($#@l no!) She decided to wait at Scouts Landing while I made for the summit. It was a scary 1/2 mile of hanging onto chains and watching every foot placement. (Do a search on YouTube for Angels Landing if you want to see what it's like.) I passed a couple of people who started up, but got part way and just got too scared to go on. Once at the top, I took a couple of pics and watched the sunrise for a few minutes, then headed back down before the narrow summit trail up got too crowded. Met up with a well rested wife and hiked back down

That afternoon we drove down to Springdale and rented e-bikes. Where have these been in our lives! Did 18 miles in the park without breaking a sweat. I would love to buy us a couple, but I don't know where I would store them.

The next morning we drove to Bryce Canyon for two nights. In the morning we watched the sunrise at Sunset point then hiked the Queens Garden Trail.


The next day we drove to Page, Arizona, stopping in the Paria area, where we hiked Wire Pass to Buckskin Gulch and into the string of slot canyons they have there. It was about 105 degrees and not a cloud around, so it made for a hot and dusty hike down the dry creek beds.

The next morning we visited Horseshoe Bend and then did the lower Antelope Canyon tour. I chose the 12:00 time slot so the sun was overhead and the light on the canyon walls was very good. Due to Covid hitting the Indian Reservation hard, they cut way back on the number of people allowed on the tours, even spacing them 15 minutes apart. That allowed us a little more time photographing than expected. They no longer allow tripods but by bracing against the walls, it was possible to get clear shots.

Later that afternoon we drove to the south rim of the Grand Canyon. We spent 3 night in a cabin on the rim at Bright Angel lodge. The first morning we were up at dawn to catch the sunrise and then we hiked a part of Bright Angel trail. Our last day we were up early to catch the 6:00am shuttle to take us to the trailhead. We hiked South Kaibab past Ooh Ahh point down to Cedar Ridge and back. After a late lunch and a short rest we walked the rim trail then finished the day sharing a bottle of wine at the rim while watching the sunset.

Finally got to sleep in late the next morning. (to 8:30am!) Packed up and drove 4.5 hours back to the Vegas airport to fly home. Total miles on the rental car was almost 1000 miles.
 
We just flew back yesterday from a 10 day trip to see the Grand Canyon and some of the National Parks out west. Our flight there was from Atlanta to Las Vegas.

Originally we were going to stay at the Bellagio, see the Cirque du Soleil show and spend a few days on the strip. With the increase of Covid cases and the lack of shows open on the days we were there, we changed our flight to later in the week, cancelled the hotel and got a full refund on the $200 each Cirque tickets. (Thank you Bellagio!)

So we flew in, picked up the rental car at the airport and headed out. Zion Park was our first experience to the parks out west. Impressive. Temp was 106 in the afternoon so we planned early morning hikes. We stayed in the park itself, in one of the cabins. Morning #1 we were up at 4:45am to be out the door at 5:45. We walked to the shuttle stop in the dark with flashlights & caught the 6:00am shuttle to the head of the trail to the Narrows. We were the first ones on the trail! Hiked one mile in the dark with headlamps until it was light enough to see. Then (with rented water boots and hiking staff) we spent 6 hours hiking the Narrows up and back. Being some of the first ones in the morning, it felt like we had the entire river to ourselves. Well, at least for the first hour or two.

The next morning was almost the same. Up at 4:45am to be out the door at 5:45. Started hiking up the Angels Landing trail in the dark with headlamps. Hiked one mile in the dark with headlamps until it was light enough to see. Once again, we were the first people on the trailhead. About the time we got to the "Walters Wiggles" switchbacks, we started getting passed by younger college-aged kids that were in much better shape and used to the higher attitudes. It's 1,500 from the bottom to the 5,800 feet summit so we were moving slow.

The final 1/2 mile to the summit of Angels Landing is the hardest and scariest. Hundreds of people do it a day, but you have to take it seriously. Since 2000, 13 people have died on the hike, including two in March. The wife took one look at it and said ($#@l no!) She decided to wait at Scouts Landing while I made for the summit. It was a scary 1/2 mile of hanging onto chains and watching every foot placement. (Do a search on YouTube for Angels Landing if you want to see what it's like.) I passed a couple of people who started up, but got part way and just got too scared to go on. Once at the top, I took a couple of pics and watched the sunrise for a few minutes, then headed back down before the narrow summit trail up got too crowded. Met up with a well rested wife and hiked back down

That afternoon we drove down to Springdale and rented e-bikes. Where have these been in our lives! Did 18 miles in the park without breaking a sweat. I would love to buy us a couple, but I don't know where I would store them.

The next morning we drove to Bryce Canyon for two nights. In the morning we watched the sunrise at Sunset point then hiked the Queens Garden Trail.


The next day we drove to Page, Arizona, stopping in the Paria area, where we hiked Wire Pass to Buckskin Gulch and into the string of slot canyons they have there. It was about 105 degrees and not a cloud around, so it made for a hot and dusty hike down the dry creek beds.

The next morning we visited Horseshoe Bend and then did the lower Antelope Canyon tour. I chose the 12:00 time slot so the sun was overhead and the light on the canyon walls was very good. Due to Covid hitting the Indian Reservation hard, they cut way back on the number of people allowed on the tours, even spacing them 15 minutes apart. That allowed us a little more time photographing than expected. They no longer allow tripods but by bracing against the walls, it was possible to get clear shots.

Later that afternoon we drove to the south rim of the Grand Canyon. We spent 3 night in a cabin on the rim at Bright Angel lodge. The first morning we were up at dawn to catch the sunrise and then we hiked a part of Bright Angel trail. Our last day we were up early to catch the 6:00am shuttle to take us to the trailhead. We hiked South Kaibab past Ooh Ahh point down to Cedar Ridge and back. After a late lunch and a short rest we walked the rim trail then finished the day sharing a bottle of wine at the rim while watching the sunset.

Finally got to sleep in late the next morning. (to 8:30am!) Packed up and drove 4.5 hours back to the Vegas airport to fly home. Total miles on the rental car was almost 1000 miles.

It sounds like a great trip. I’ve been to all those parks at least once, but I’m not a serious hiker. I’m always impressed with people doing the full Angels Landing trail. We didn’t even consider doing it. But it was fun to barely be able to see people up ther doing it. Congrats.
 
Great trip. We got up early too to do Angel's Landing. It's the only way to beat the crowds, and you do not want crowds, going up or down, when you get to the last section. It's scary enough!
 
Sounds like a good trip.


Once I hiked down to Phantom Ranch in the Grand Canyon, then back up again the next day. It was tough but I was < 30 yo. Would not try it today.
 
Angels Landing & Narrows are both excellent hikes. I’m sure you enjoyed them and it was nice to beat the crowds. Being in the Narrows alone would certainly be a special feeling.

Lots of incredible hikes in almost all of our NP’s. I’ve done many of them and aspire to do them all if there’s even such a possibility. Not that I’m greedy lol
 
That was the exact itinerary we took in June--but in reverse order.

My wife is having some mobility issues, and we couldn't do any hiking with her on her electric scooter. The 10 & 1e year old grandkids couldn't get over the vistas.

They're a beautiful part of the U.S., and a 1000 mile circle out of Las Vegas to see.

I understand that Lake Powell in Page, AZ is now about empty, and they've had to pull the hundreds of houseboats out of the lake to keep'em off the lake bottom.
 
Nice description!

Many years ago, I went with my DW and her brother with the intention of climbing to Angel's Landing. My wife bowed out around Walter's Wiggles, and my BIL and I made it to Scout's Lookout. Thereupon he announces that there is no way he is willing to go up to Angel's Landing. WHAT?!?! Sheesh. So we headed back down, picked up DW, and went back to the hotel. Downer.

So years later, my DW and I went back to Zion, but she had to leave for a business conference after a few days. On the first day that she was gone, I got up at oh-dark-thirty, and climbed to Angel's Landing, having the trail all to myself, and arriving at the top around 8 am. Well, turns out that there were about 4 college-age kids that were already there, but that is okay.

Came back down from the spire, but then headed into the backcountry on the West Rim Trail for a nice long hike. (Total hike for the day was 19 miles.) On the way back, I had to pass by the trailhead up to Angel's Landing again, and said "What the hell?!" So I climbed back up to the summit right around sunset, then made my way back down to the valley floor in the twilight. Great experience.
 
The OP made a great trip. We are afraid of height, so did not do the Angel Trail, but enjoyed the Narrows in Zion, and many trails in Bryce.

Sounds like a good trip.

Once I hiked down to Phantom Ranch in the Grand Canyon, then back up again the next day. It was tough but I was < 30 yo. Would not try it today.

I have not made any serious hike in Grand Canyon, but my brother and sister-in-law have done several. They belong to a group who has done a few trips each year.

My SIL has gone from the South Rim down to Phantom Ranch, then back in the same day.

Some tougher guys in her group have done Rim-to-Rim, meaning going from the South Rim to the North Rim non-stop. This takes a very long day, because the bottom-to-North-Rim part is tougher.

And if that is not scary enough, SIL told me a couple of guys did Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim. What the heck! I forgot how long they rested at the North Rim before going back. Did they walk in the dark, or wait at the North Rim for daylight?

PS. My SIL is a young gal. She's 45. The other guys in her group were late 50s, early 60s.

I will ask SIL how long the other guys waited at the North Rim before retracing back to the South Rim.
 
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We are not hikers but several years ago, we went all the way up to where the water started at the Narrows, I think it is called the Virgin River. We didn't want to get wet.
 
We are not hikers but several years ago, we went all the way up to where the water started at the Narrows, I think it is called the Virgin River. We didn't want to get wet.

I don't remember when we were there, but the water was running and there was no way a hiker could not get wet. It's only a question of how deep you want to wade.

We went as far as the water going up past our knees, then waded back. It's not just wet, but the water was a bit chilly too.
 
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It sounds like a great trip. I’ve been to all those parks at least once, but I’m not a serious hiker. I’m always impressed with people doing the full Angels Landing trail. We didn’t even consider doing it. But it was fun to barely be able to see people up ther doing it. Congrats.

I'm like you.....hiking Angels Landing was not even considered. It was amazing seeing so many do it tho.

That is a great trip. I hope to go back next year as I only saw Zion, Moab, Sedona and the Grand Canyon when out that way a few years ago. Also explored areas of Colorado on the same trip. So lots more to see. I keep saying I want to take a month long trip.....maybe next Spring.
 
Rim-River-Rim

Great report. Was reminded of my rim to river to rim hike with three buddies back a few years ago. We went down the Kaibab Trail and returned on Bright Angel.

It is a little jarring when you have gone 13-14 miles and then you see women in flip flops or high heels venturing down Bright Angel to Cottonwood (I guess that is about mile).

There was snow on the ground at the top when we started and 95 degrees at bottom.

Of course there are reports each year of catastrophic and often fatal falls in the canyon.
 
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My trip to Zion was illuminating for many reasons. One was the number of international travelers I ran into their. I literally met people from over a dozen countries and I wasn't trying hard to meet them.

Many were on tours that stopped for a day in Lost Wages, NV. Zion is a somewhat long but doable day trip from LV, especially if one is on a bus where somebody else drives. Others were students who are studying in the USA. I ran into one tour group from Poland. I even met some Canadians.

Fortunately, I was there early in the year before the driving restrictions were in place.
 
A great trip and good for you on missing the crowds.


For anyone else planning a Utah trip a good alternative depending on what you want to see is....Zion, North Rim of the grand canyon, (way less crowded and IMO better) BC,...then Utah 12 up to Moab it just depends on what you want to see.



You get a tremendous bang for your buck on this route. If you had time you could do Capitol Reef which gets almost no love.
 
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Sounds great. I've been everywhere you mentioned. Very smart to get out early.
 

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Did you travel down Cottonwood Canyon Road? It is an unimproved road from Byrce Canyon NP south toward Kodachrome State Park the further south thru the Escalante Staircase to the Highway 89 north of the Grand Canyon. Spectacular road to drive on if in someone else's car! We drove it west of Page to Bryce to save some time to get to Bryce in a dark maroon Plymouth Concourse, and boy the washboard road slowed us down, but the ride was spectacular! Would love to go back with an SUV!
 
That afternoon we drove down to Springdale and rented e-bikes. Where have these been in our lives! Did 18 miles in the park without breaking a sweat.

Worth noting that the Hurricane, NV area, just SW of Zion is mountain bike heaven. Tons of great intermediate through advanced trails. Last time we were there I did the Hurricane Rim trail loop on my bike while DW waded her way up the Narrows in Zion, and a splendid time was had by all.
 
Worth noting that the Hurricane, NV area, just SW of Zion is mountain bike heaven. Tons of great intermediate through advanced trails. Last time we were there I did the Hurricane Rim trail loop on my bike while DW waded her way up the Narrows in Zion, and a splendid time was had by all.

Hurricane is in Utah and yes the trails are plentiful.
 
then Utah 12 up to Moab it just depends on what you want to see.


You get a tremendous bang for your buck on this route. If you had time you could do Capitol Reef which gets almost no love.

Agreed! Utah 12 is almost worth a drive if you didn't go to other, wonderful sites.
 
Agreed! Utah 12 is almost worth a drive if you didn't go to other, wonderful sites.


No almost about it....:) so much to see and jaw drop over..
 
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Eeek. Another sign of my cognitive decline. Lucky I can still ride a bike.


No big deal it's just across the NV/UT border. The only reason I mentioned it was to keep some soul from trying to google Hurricane NV.



Anybody interested in the town should watch Matt's Off Road Recovery on You tube....Zion, Sand hollow, Hurricane Cliffs, Virgin River you'll see it all. Bonus points if you like seeing wrecked Razors...
 
Trying to save face, here is a photo from my last bike trip to Hurricane in 2018 (when I was in a lot better shape). Photo taken on the Hurricane Rim Trail maybe 12 miles from Zion. Beautiful terrain and well worth the visit (though I prefer the April/May and October/November seasons to avoid the summer heat).


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