Adventures in building a forever home (Move in date 12/2024)

[Ronstar]

This is what we are putting in the elevator shaft. It is indeed affordable.
https://affordablelifts.com/#Customization

Thanks - that's exactly what I need! Good that you are setting up your home for this during construction.

I have to knock out some drywall/ cut ceiling joists/ create an opening in the garage ceiling next to the wall. My current attic scuttle is too far from a wall to work.

 

[Sniggle]

Another day, another inch closer to the start line. I need to build a pole barn on the site also, with 2 stalls, tack room, hay and tractor storage. I solicited some bids last week, and they are trickling in. I called the building office to find out what I needed to get a permit to build it, and it turns out to be the same form for a house, although 90% of the form does not apply.

Then they told me I need the health department to sign off first, even though it will not be plumbed. Luckily, they still are working my permit for the house septic, so I can just add that building to the plat/application, and get the needed approval. They also said that typically they do not allow the building of an accessory structure before the home is finished....so zoning will need to sign off. It is never easy.

Pole barn is 28 x 54, a couple stalls. It looks like it will come in around $60K, including concrete in some areas of the barn (sent to 3 builders, got 1.5 bids back so far). I will need to spend another $3-4K to build the pad for the barn.

Attached is my 'drawing'...not to scale

 

[skyking1]

My shop is hopefully the 2024 project at our place. Looks good!

 

[Sniggle]

Here is the quote I am probably going with for the barn. A few things may change, but not materially.

These guys are quoting with 26 gauge steel, vs the other that is quoting 29 gauge steel. This does not include the concrete, which I can do later (maybe to coincide with the patio pour at the house) ($3000 maybe,WAG) and the site prep (leveling, 3-4 inches of fine gravel, maybe $2500). I will do simple electrical. I will probably get the under-roof insulation, and the ceiling in the barn area (wife want), so it will be a little over $50K.

Interesting to note, I inquired about 18 months back and the prices were much higher.

 

[Fermion]

That is a reasonable cost for that size barn. 12 to 18 months back the materials had spiked 400% (plywood was selling for $50 for 5/8" thick) and they have crashed back down some.

 

[wmc1000]

But we are making our home more senior friendly. Making the landscape natural. Grab bars in bathrooms, etc.

I'm looking at making an elevator to move things to/from the attic. Probably going to re-remodel the master bath to get rid of the tub and put in a bigger walk in shower.

This is what we did when we bought our existing house. Removed original jetted tub and separate shower which was behind the tub wall requiring you to enter the toilet area to access. Insulated common wall with Master BR for noise reduction and add blocking for future grab bar(s), (pictures taken so I know measurements!). Designed new shower large enough so that no door was needed. Couldn't make it a no lip because of existing floors but, if needed, can make a small ramp to get over 2.5" shower lip on outside on shower and it is a 1" lip on inside of shower.

 

[wmc1000]

Here is the quote I am probably going with for the barn. A few things may change, but not materially.

These guys are quoting with 26 gauge steel, vs the other that is quoting 29 gauge steel. This does not include the concrete, which I can do later (maybe to coincide with the patio pour at the house) ($3000 maybe,WAG) and the site prep (leveling, 3-4 inches of fine gravel, maybe $2500). I will do simple electrical. I will probably get the under-roof insulation, and the ceiling in the barn area (wife want), so it will be a little over $50K.

Interesting to note, I inquired about 18 months back and the prices were much higher.

Looks good! One thing to consider if you believe it will ever be hated and/or cooled. We did a 32x56 pole building in 2021 and I had them put a 1/2" EPS insulation on the outside under the metal as a thermal break. I left the 1.5" gap between the inside and outside as a dead air space when I insulated the inside using 3" EPS board. Also, since you are having the ceiling put in, as I did go ahead and have them blow in insulation up there. I had 15" cellulose done on ours.

More money up front, but you won't be sorry if you are working in there when temperatures are too hot or too cold!

 

[old medic]

and add blocking for future grab bar(s), (pictures taken so I know measurements!).

I will highly recommend that you do this. I put them all around the shower and both sides of the toilet.

 

[Sniggle]

This is what we did when we bought our existing house. Removed original jetted tub and separate shower which was behind the tub wall requiring you to enter the toilet area to access. Insulated common wall with Master BR for noise reduction and add blocking for future grab bar(s), (pictures taken so I know measurements!). Designed new shower large enough so that no door was needed. Couldn't make it a no lip because of existing floors but, if needed, can make a small ramp to get over 2.5" shower lip on outside on shower and it is a 1" lip on inside of shower.

I am happy we are able to do the no lip shower....as it can accommodate us when we are old and any friends/relatives that would need that kind of shower access. Adding structure for future grab bars makes good sense...I will add that in.

 

[folivier]

Our condo we moved into in June (actually I have only spent 1 week in it) has a shower and a separate jetted tub. We're thinking of removing the tub and shower and building a slightly larger tile shower with bench & grab bars then add cabinets rather than another tub. I like the idea of a no or shallow lip but won't know if that is possible until we remove the tub and shower. Hopefully the floor is recessed but maybe not since it's a cement slab. Other than that the condo is pretty accessible. The doors are IIRC 32" so not as large as I'd like but ok. All doors open fully so that helps. Our 100 unit gated complex are all single stories. Watching real estate in our area we're lucky to have found it.

 

[Ronstar]

This is what we did when we bought our existing house. Removed original jetted tub and separate shower which was behind the tub wall requiring you to enter the toilet area to access. Insulated common wall with Master BR for noise reduction and add blocking for future grab bar(s), (pictures taken so I know measurements!). Designed new shower large enough so that no door was needed. Couldn't make it a no lip because of existing floors but, if needed, can make a small ramp to get over 2.5" shower lip on outside on shower and it is a 1" lip on inside of shower.

Very nice!! That's exactly what I want to do. Huge walk in shower. But I have a window that I need to deal with. I suppose I could keep the window in the shower. It would be far enough from the faucet so that it wouldn't get wet.

 

[wmc1000]

Very nice!! That's exactly what I want to do. Huge walk in shower. But I have a window that I need to deal with. I suppose I could keep the window in the shower. It would be far enough from the faucet so that it wouldn't get wet.

Here is our approximate final layout post install.

The window won't cause a problem if it is vinyl or Fibrex type frame. if wood casing it needs to be sealed well to deal with moisture from humidity of the shower area.

 

[OldShooter]

A few things learned from building our new house/master bath:

1.) The plumber set the shower head outlet very high -- much higher than we were used to. He said that is the new style because people like these very large "rainfall" type shower heads and they are taller. The result was we had to chase around to find an extension to get the shower head low enough that DW can reach it. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BLC7DNH3 and https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09LXW7FQ2 ) What I should have done is to specify the height of the shower head opening instead of leaving it to him.

2.) We installed both a conventional shower and a hand-held "telephone" shower, each on its own single-lever valve. (https://www.build.com/moen-ut3291/s1740467) A hand-held is very handy for someone sitting on a shower stool or bench. Hand held showers slide up and down on a vertical bar and there are models where that bar is ADA compliant. (https://www.build.com/delta-51900/s1199654) I don't think it's likely that we will need the services of a grab bar in that location but if someone slips and grabs I don't want the bar to come out of the wall either.

3.) I have bought several grab bars from https://www.grabbarspecialists.com/ . They have a bar finish than is neither smooth nor knurled, a somewhat rough finish I don't like. Their "Shur-Grip" has a sort of pebbled look that is much grippier than it looks. They have lots of designs and finishes. Their 32" bars anchor nicely to studs 16" OC, eliminating the need for preplanning blocking locations.

 

[Fermion]

Being 6'7" I HATE low shower heads. I would have kissed your plumber.

 

[OldShooter]

Being 6'7" I HATE low shower heads. I would have kissed your plumber.

My point was that I learned that I had to take charge of that decision, not to delegate it. Obviously if you build, you should too.

Another one I learned is that I should have specified the height of the pendant lights on either side of the bathroom mirror. The electrician hung them much too high.

 

[pb4uski]

Very nice!! That's exactly what I want to do. Huge walk in shower. But I have a window that I need to deal with. I suppose I could keep the window in the shower. It would be far enough from the faucet so that it wouldn't get wet.

The shower in the guest bath of our condo is along the exterior wall and has a frosted window. Works fine.

 

[ERD50]

... and add blocking for future grab bar(s), (pictures taken so I know measurements!). ...

Why not just put the grab bars in now?

I've had back problems in the past (no episodes for 3~4 years now, knock on wood), and grab bars really helped me to feel secure in the shower. Same if you end up with knee/leg injury or problems.

An injury or other problem can happen at any time, why wait until you 'need' them?

-ERD50

 

[OldShooter]

Why not just put the grab bars in now? ...

I had the same thought when I saw that post.

 

[Sniggle]

I had the same thought when I saw that post.

Point taken. I guess I still am struggling to accept that I am getting old, and will one day need them. I will add them in when I do the shower design.

 

[skyking1]

The process is still the same. Blocking then board, tile and then the bars.
I think we will go with just the shower on the bar, @OldShooter.
It can go up as high as needed. We use our handheld that way now. I really like the grab rated bar idea.

 

[Sniggle]

Still have not crossed the start line, but have a window bid to share that will probably be the winner, from Pella. Around $50K, driven by the large double sliding door and the custom window over it, accounting for around $14 K.

Attached for your viewing pleasure.

 

[Fermion]

Windows are not cheap are they?

The Pella windows we bought in 2021 doubled in price by 2023 for the same exact windows. I don't know how people build affordable houses today...maybe they use made in China windows?

 

[Sniggle]

Windows are not cheap are they?

The Pella windows we bought in 2021 doubled in price by 2023 for the same exact windows. I don't know how people build affordable houses today...maybe they use made in China windows?

Are you pleased with your Pella windows?

 

[Fermion]

Are you pleased with your Pella windows?

At the price we paid, yes. If I had paid 2023 prices I would have nitpicked a bit on quality. They do have different levels, we got the vinyl ones.

 

[Sniggle]

At the price we paid, yes. If I had paid 2023 prices I would have nitpicked a bit on quality. They do have different levels, we got the vinyl ones.

These are the step up...Lifestyle they call them. Aluminum exterior and wood interior. I have read a few gripes on quality, and will be on the lookout for any windows that look poorly put together, and get them replaced. I will discuss this with the Pella agent before signing as well.

I am considering Marvin also, but Marvin may actually come in a little higher, and I have been less impressed with the sales help so far.