Foundation Repairs

[Sunset]

Well, I am not an expert in foundation work but online articles, the structural engineer, and the local foundation companies I've hired say ours are permanent and can be adjusted as needed.

I've seen a lot of houses, mine included that have adjustable metal posts attached to a beam.
Ours is in the basement, resting on the poured concrete floor that probably has a square footing under it to take the pressure.

Very much like this one:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Akron-99-in-Adjustable-Jack-Post/3475355?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-bdm-_-bng-_-PLA_BDM_103_Roofing-Gutters-_-3475355-_-Online-_-0-_-0&gclid=b26f3d9ea5021f3220c75eb8076104e5&gclsrc=3p.ds&ds_rl=1286981&msclkid=b26f3d9ea5021f3220c75eb8076104e5

 

[jfn111]

I've seen a lot of houses, mine included that have adjustable metal posts attached to a beam.
Ours is in the basement, resting on the poured concrete floor that probably has a square footing under it to take the pressure.

Very much like this one:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Akron-99-in-Adjustable-Jack-Post/3475355?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-bdm-_-bng-_-PLA_BDM_103_Roofing-Gutters-_-3475355-_-Online-_-0-_-0&gclid=b26f3d9ea5021f3220c75eb8076104e5&gclsrc=3p.ds&ds_rl=1286981&msclkid=b26f3d9ea5021f3220c75eb8076104e5

Those are quite common here in MN and I see them in the basements of lots of older homes. (To be FHA compliant they can't adjustable.)

 

[aja8888]

Yes, it is a crawl space. I think the issue with the house is coming from the attached garage, which is slab and the company I hired didn't do slab work. If all you have is a hammer, kind of thing. So I'm going to bring back the original independent engineer or find someone like him. But it is an old house so the foundation issues, which aren't too bad, have to wait in line behind all the other major projects that need fixing / replacing.

Got it, thanks for the clarification. I was assuming you were on a full slab like most newer homes in Ca (and Texas).

 

[MC Rider]

I'm not a structural engineer, but it doesn't look like a big deal to me. I would sister 4' long x 8" wide and 1/4" thick steel plates on each side with bolts and nuts through the beam and declare victory.

I'm hoping for something like this. The company coming tomorrow has engineers on staff, so I am not worried about them coming up with a good solution. I am worried about the cost.


Whatever is done it will be better than it was new in 1956, and better than a lot of other houses around here built in the same time frame. It can be a selling point. Adds value.

 

[mountainsoft]

the main issue apparently being a crack in a foundation girder support beam. Their inspector wants to replace the whole beam and 3 pylons for $16k+. Looks like a big splinter to me

Hard to tell from the photo, but looks like two beams joining over a pier. The beams themselves look straight, no sagging. Most likely just normal superficial cracking from drying. Sistering wood or steel plates on both sides would probably solve the issue. You could also add additional piers to shorten the spans and reduce the load on the beam. Replacing the beam seems overkill. Also looks like bare dirt in the crawl space. Should add vapor barrier to reduce moisture problems.

 

[MC Rider]

Got our report from the foundation specialist company. Recommended epoxy and metal strap and bolt 6 cracks in the concrete perimeter wall. The general inspection noted cracks, but the first foundation guy did not. Says there is "a damaged section of wood beam framing" and they will correct this by sistering. No need to replace anything.



They suggest we talk to this other company about drainage, they don't do drainage. I think this is probably a small issue, it is pretty dry here, and that bare dirt under the house is dry dry dry.


Anyway, cost for foundation work is $1,300, or 3% off if we pay by check = $1,261. I guess that $16,000+ was a Caddy when we just need a bicycle.

I am channeling the Ramones on this project.
Hey Ho! Let's Go!

 

[aja8888]

Got our report from the foundation specialist company. Recommended epoxy and metal strap and bolt 6 cracks in the concrete perimeter wall. The general inspection noted cracks, but the first foundation guy did not. Says there is "a damaged section of wood beam framing" and they will correct this by sistering. No need to replace anything.



They suggest we talk to this other company about drainage, they don't do drainage. I think this is probably a small issue, it is pretty dry here, and that bare dirt under the house is dry dry dry.


Anyway, cost for foundation work is $1,300, or 3% off if we pay by check = $1,261. I guess that $16,000+ was a Caddy when we just need a bicycle.

I am channeling the Ramones on this project.
Hey Ho! Let's Go!

 

[mountainsoft]

Got our report from the foundation specialist company. Recommended epoxy and metal strap and bolt 6 cracks in the concrete perimeter wall. The general inspection noted cracks, but the first foundation guy did not. Says there is "a damaged section of wood beam framing" and they will correct this by sistering. No need to replace anything.

I'm glad you have an easier solution than replacing the beam.

Unless the foundation is shifting, minor hairline cracks shouldn't be an issue. That's fairly normal for concrete as it shrinks over time. Especially if there is no rebar in the foundation.

it is pretty dry here, and that bare dirt under the house is dry dry dry.

I would test it anyway, especially during rainy season. Lay down a piece of plastic under the house, or even something plastic like a garbage can lid (with no holes in it). Let it set for a day or two then pull it up and see if it's damp underneath. If so, you have moisture that can come up into the house (even if the ground looks dry). That's a potential for mold.

 

[MC Rider]

I'm glad you have an easier solution than replacing the beam.

Unless the foundation is shifting, minor hairline cracks shouldn't be an issue. That's fairly normal for concrete as it shrinks over time. Especially if there is no rebar in the foundation.

I would test it anyway, especially during rainy season. Lay down a piece of plastic under the house, or even something plastic like a garbage can lid (with no holes in it). Let it set for a day or two then pull it up and see if it's damp underneath. If so, you have moisture that can come up into the house (even if the ground looks dry). That's a potential for mold.

One inspection pointed out a little bit of rebar sticking out of the foundation, iirc. So I guess it is there.


There is concrete surrounding a good part of the exterior. We added some concrete with drains in back, and a new properly sloped driveway during our tenure, because the back area looked a potential mudhole. I'm thinking they need to add some of our hard clay dirt by the walls that lack it, and slope it away from the house a bit. Anyway, we hope to be outta here before rainy season.

 

[Car-Guy]

I wish you (and any future buyer) the best of luck with the repairs.

 

[misanman]

FYI - Rebar that is too close to the surface can rust if there is enough moisture present. The rust expands and pops or cracks the concrete. We had that problem in our garage but I imagine it is not all that common.

 

[MC Rider]

FYI - Rebar that is too close to the surface can rust if there is enough moisture present. The rust expands and pops or cracks the concrete. We had that problem in our garage but I imagine it is not all that common.

That is what that one inspector said. I think it is one little rebar end from the pic. I figure if we have a C of O from the city on it, we will be good for the sale. Nothing is ever perfect and everything needs maint. Of course we do want to pass the place on to the next owner in as good condition as we can.


@Car-Guy. Thanks. Me too.

 

[triangle]

Got our report from the foundation specialist company. Recommended epoxy and metal strap and bolt 6 cracks in the concrete perimeter wall. The general inspection noted cracks, but the first foundation guy did not. Says there is "a damaged section of wood beam framing" and they will correct this by sistering. No need to replace anything.



They suggest we talk to this other company about drainage, they don't do drainage. I think this is probably a small issue, it is pretty dry here, and that bare dirt under the house is dry dry dry.


Anyway, cost for foundation work is $1,300, or 3% off if we pay by check = $1,261. I guess that $16,000+ was a Caddy when we just need a bicycle.

I am channeling the Ramones on this project.
Hey Ho! Let's Go!

That sounds great, assuming that the house buyer will accept. My state's law requires that foundation repairs be analyzed/designed/recommended by a licensed engineer. The resulting recommendation can then be executed a foundation repair company. Apparently this was done to avoid issues with companies being over zealous in recommending repairs.

For example, I nearly got caught up in a situation of my on making. I called a foundation repair company to look into some cracking in a brick veneer wall. They agreed with my concerns, that something should be done to fix it, and gave a quote for installing a row of "push piers". During this time I learned I should get a structural engineering evaluation first, and the engineer noted some small cracks but that they were minor and did not need repair unless I wanted (to have a cosmetic repair). He even stated that installing push piers or helical piers might even make the brick cracking issue worse.

I am a layman but for your situation the proposed solution seems reasonable. That support beam looks like it has dried out which caused it to splinter. When your home was built I imagine that board had a higher moisture content and was bent when delivered to the job site. During construction it was straightened to keep the floor square, only to dry out over time to the point that it splintered to relieve the stress of being bent back.

 

[MC Rider]

Today they told me the work does not even require a permit, as it is only a repair. Pretty sure we will have to disclose it was done to the buyer. There are thousands of houses from the 1950's here, and I'm sure our is not the only one with issues like this. This company is pretty well known here. So, I'm not real worried about buyers accepting it.

 

[Retired Expat]

Maybe add a flitch plate to the sistered beam. Steel being stronger than wood

 

[MC Rider]

I don't know the gory details of the plan, but imagine there will be steel involved. We'll find out next week.

 

[freedomatlast]

The beams themselves look straight, no sagging. Most likely just normal superficial cracking from drying. Sistering wood or steel plates on both sides would solve the issue.

I agree. Another money grab making a big deal out of next to nothing.

 

[MC Rider]

Work was done today by 3 guys in about 3 1/2 hours. Which includes them getting out of vehicles and suiting up, until the job was done and they rolled out. I await their final report and pics, but here are the sister boards ready to install, and a bucket of the concrete patch stuff. They also has several flat metal brackets to install in the perimeter. And made a hella racket drilling into the concrete to install them.