How to Stick This to the Garage Floor?

But you could also stub your toes on the rubber blocks. :confused:

How 'bout another $2 for black paint to apply to the cinder blocks, then they are just like your fancy curbs?
 
NW-Bound said:
But you could also stub your toes on the rubber blocks. :confused:

How 'bout another $2 for black paint to apply to the cinder blocks, then they are just like your fancy curbs?
Click to expand...

Well the "fancy" curbs are wider (about 21 inches), and they weigh more, so you'd have to buy 4 blocks. And they have the racy yellow stripes to make them more visible.

Amazon delivered them to my doorstep, and I "installed" them in my garage in about 15 seconds. Maybe a blow the dough moment.
 
I'd use JB Weld plastic bonder. 2 part urethane based product.
 
NW-Bound said:
Tesla cars have ultrasonic sensors, which are basically proximity sensors.

Are these ultrasonic sensors of any use as a parking aid? It seems to me Tesla can display clearance distances around the car as measured by these sensors on the large display.

How else will the built-in autopilot park the car later on with updated software, if not by using these sensors?





Here's a DIY version.

Click to expand...
Yes, I've been backing in until it says I have 27". Who has time to watch the display?!

Lena's been driving until the aluminum ball in the string hits the side view mirror.

I just wanted to try this. Someone in another thread made it seem simple.

The liquid nails are becoming solid as we speak.
 
I bought a laser that shines a dot onto the instrument panel. It is motion activated. It wasn’t expensive and no tripping.
 
If the floor might be contaminated with grease, you can chisel out a piece of floor, patch it, then use a flexible adhesive that can take freezing temperatures.

But where did the bond fail? Did the adhesive work on the yellow plastic and come off of the concrete or vise versa? If the adhesive won't stick to the plastic piece then maybe you should glue a piece of metal or wood on the floor at the front and back of the plastic to prevent it from slipping.
 
Clean floor (etch) with Muriatic acid, use liquid nails or other construction adhesive. That is what I di with my bottom garage door seal, it is now 13 years later and it is still in place.
 
TromboneAl said:
I got one of these for guiding the parking process
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You actually park your car in your garage? :)

I use my garage as a woodworking shop, or as a project center, so we rarely pull a car in unless I need to work on it. I've never had an issue just pulling in and eyeballing my position. But we have small cars and a 28' deep garage (about 24' if I don't count the attic stairs).

I would much rather have the traditional tennis ball on a string touching the windshield, or one of those fancy laser markers to indicate my parking spot. My mom hung a small stuffed animal in her garage and knew she was in the right spot when it smacked her windshield.

I wouldn't want an obstacle on my garage floor. It would be a tripping hazard and would get in the way rolling my tools around the garage. I also wouldn't want to put adhesive, or screws, or anything that might damage the garage floor for future use (if I want to epoxy coat or something).
 
Boho said:
But where did the bond fail? Did the adhesive work on the yellow plastic and come off of the concrete or vise versa?
Click to expand...

Both.

Liquid Nails are now semi-liquid.
 
mountainsoft said:
You actually park your car in your garage? :)

I use my garage as a woodworking shop, or as a project center, so we rarely pull a car in unless I need to work on it. I've never had an issue just pulling in and eyeballing my position. But we have small cars and a 28' deep garage (about 24' if I don't count the attic stairs).

I would much rather have the traditional tennis ball on a string touching the windshield, or one of those fancy laser markers to indicate my parking spot. My mom hung a small stuffed animal in her garage and knew she was in the right spot when it smacked her windshield.

I wouldn't want an obstacle on my garage floor. It would be a tripping hazard and would get in the way rolling my tools around the garage. I also wouldn't want to put adhesive, or screws, or anything that might damage the garage floor for future use (if I want to epoxy coat or something).
Click to expand...


I'm with you, don't clutter the floor, hang a ball from the ceiling and be done. I'm an electronics guy, at one time I was about to design a circuit with a sensor to tell me when to stop, but, I came to my senses that a simple ball hanging from the ceiling is all that was needed.
 
Why not just use the built in parking sensors to tell you when you are just close enough to the front objects... That is what I do with my BMW. I can get up to 6" before the display goes into the red zone.
 
FWIW, I use a piece of 2x4. I chalk the outline so I know where to replace it after I kick it when moving about the garage when the car is out. I like being able to lift it out of the way to sweep, or the once-every-4-year big party.
 
HarveyS said:
FWIW, I use a piece of 2x4. I chalk the outline so I know where to replace it after I kick it when moving about the garage when the car is out. I like being able to lift it out of the way to sweep, or the once-every-4-year big party.
Click to expand...

That's what I use, a scrap piece of 2x4 in my third stall.

Also, if cars aren't kept in it, is it actually a garage? :)
 
Harrald said:
Tapcons are your best choice. Be careful when drilling the holes. You have to drill at least as deep as the tapcon or they will snap when installing. Using liquid nails or better yet construction adhesive will work (liquid nails may not last) but removing the adhesive later will be a pain. If you do end up using either of those, put a heavy weight on the piece after it's glued down for at least 24 hours. A 5 gallon bucket of water (about 44 pounds) should be enough. Pressure will help set the glue.



Tapcons can be removed and the holes filled very easily.
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Also, after drilling, use compressed air to blow the dust out of the hole. I have not had good luck with Tapcons and avoid them unless there is no other solution. If the hole isn't perfect, the head snaps off and now you're screwed. (pun intended)
 
I like the retracting tennis ball setup. I have the laser light setup. Only, my cars sit outside while I work on other hobbies inside the garage so neither the laser nor the tennis ball will work for me.
 
Re: The Park Ranger, I agree with the questioner below, even after reviewing the webpage in the answer. Very poor sales copy.

Question:
More explanation please the instructions are vague and do not make sense - how about some photos or a video?

Answer:
The videos on this page (tkachenterprises.com/the-park-ranger/index.html) Park Ranger: Amazingly Simple Precision Parking Aid[/url] ) should answer your questions on use and installation.

By Tkach Enterprises Inc Seller on October 12, 2017
Click to expand...

Wait...I didn't see any videos though. Now I have to open it in a browser that will let me see the video....

OK, seems simple now. I'd probably make one myself.
 
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Boho said:
OK, seems simple now. I'd probably make one myself.
Click to expand...

That was my thought, too. I was thinking plywood, but actually a little cardboard ...
 
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travelover said:
I didn’t get any response on this post, but I tell ya, these things work great. You can park your car within a millimeter every time. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HHGRWS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_xoKpEbKMDK7Z0
Click to expand...

I use the laser beam devices also. They work great. Back when I had 4 cars, I parked 2 cars back to back in a 3 car garage. I had only a few inches to spare between cars, between car and wall, between car and garage door. The laser beam made all that work.

But I think that OP's parking mat idea would work also - as long as the driver can "feel" the mat while driving on it so that they stop on the mat.
 
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