Your recent repair? 2013 - 2020

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My power mirrors are more than a bit wonky LOL. I have them set manually with distinct instructions not to touch them!!! Thanks for the idea. I might give that a try and see if that takes care of it.

This fixed mine:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003SOKEXI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Once again acumen with electronic devices proven!

Just a few moments ago, DW complained that the downstairs TV was locked up on one channel and refused to change to a different one despite repeated presses on the appropriate button(s).

Giving up, she came to me and explained the problem. Confirming the problem, I pressed the appropriate buttons to no avail. Strongly suspecting either a glitch or a gremlin, I deemed that the most likely path to eliminating either one was to starve them into submission, and pulled the plugs on both the TV and the cable box.

Then I left to go use the bathroom.

Upon returning I restored power to both the cable box and the TV, and waited a few moments for the cable box to connect to whatever it connects to when it wakes up. When both were turned back on, all worked normally as they should.

Therefore, I conclude that using the bathroom will cure a malfunctioning TV.*




*Of course, after 31 years of marriage, I also know that DW has a propensity to press more than one button on a device at the same time, thus confusing said device into a catatonic state. So there is that possibility....
 
Just a few moments ago, DW complained that the downstairs TV was locked up on one channel and refused to change to a different one despite repeated presses on the appropriate button(s).

Giving up, she came to me and explained the problem. Confirming the problem, I pressed the appropriate buttons to no avail. Strongly suspecting either a glitch or a gremlin, I deemed that the most likely path to eliminating either one was to starve them into submission, and pulled the plugs on both the TV and the cable box.

Then I left to go use the bathroom.

Upon returning I restored power to both the cable box and the TV, and waited a few moments for the cable box to connect to whatever it connects to when it wakes up. When both were turned back on, all worked normally as they should.

Therefore, I conclude that using the bathroom will cure a malfunctioning TV.*




*Of course, after 31 years of marriage, I also know that DW has a propensity to press more than one button on a device at the same time, thus confusing said device into a catatonic state. So there is that possibility....

PCs, phones, or anything with a computer built in; first rule of thumb is to reboot. Second rule of thumb is to tell your customer that you had to pull the internal skyhook mother module and refresh it prior to reinstalling it and prioritizing the mehoosh mod.
 
Second rule of thumb is to tell your customer that you had to pull the internal skyhook mother module and refresh it prior to reinstalling it and prioritizing the mehoosh mod.


Ooh, I like that one much better. I'll be sure to try that next time!
 
Replaced the line from the valve to the fill mechanism on the toilet.

Picked up a Fluidmaster stainless braided line this time since the previous generic plastic replacement failed at the crimp.

Might want to take a few minutes to check those lines running from the valves in your home to the toilets and sink faucets...
 
I changed out my R22 unit on the 2nd floor to R410a. The line set ran down an interior wall to the underfloor crawl space and then out to the condenser. The existing line set was flushed out with a solvent made for this purpose. No problems thus far for 5+ years.


If replacing the line set was a big pain in the neck, I would have tried the solvent magic goop. But in my last install the new lineset was easy to put in place, and the cost for the parts was $150.

My line of thinking:

- Will the goo work for me? Like most installations, there are dips in both lines, so some of the old lube and the new solvent/neutralizer, etc is almost surely going to remain in the line. IIRC, there was a rash of Copeland compressor failures a few years ago blamed on these flush kits, and I did not want to get into a blame game if that happened to me.
- The existing copper lines had been in place for decades. I know copper water lines do erode at places when water velocities are high, and the gas/entrained droplets in the refrigerant loop can move very quickly. Also, copper does work harden due to vibration, and the vibration can be readily felt when the old system was running (I think slugs of liquid refrigerant moving about).

Anyway, the new lines weren't expensive, the guy would be there with his nitrogen, vacuum pump, refrigerant, torch, etc and ready to do the connections, so no increased labor cost to use the new copper. The insulation on the suction side was generous and new, not like the insulation on the old set that was brittle and cracked. The cost/hassle factor of a failure of the lines was also a big factor in my decision.

Again--there's nothing absolute about my rationale. If the situation were different, I might have attempted to re-use the line set.

FWIW: I have been known to go a bit overboard in the quest for increased reliability. For example, when I replace our home AC in a few months, I'll be going with a SEER 14 unit rather than a higher efficiency one. This eliminates the need for the thermal expansion valve (TXV) that is a must-have in the 16+ SEER installlations. We only cool for a few months each year, and the benefit of going to a higher SEER unit is not huge. In my system there will be only one moving part in the refrigerant loop (the compressor). Eliminating the TXV removes a second moving mechanical part/potential failure point in the AC refigerant loop. Since I can't service anything in that refrigerant loop myself, and getting someone else to do it is expensive and a hassle, I'm keen to keep it simple and reliable.
 
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Replaced the line from the valve to the fill mechanism on the toilet.

Picked up a Fluidmaster stainless braided line this time since the previous generic plastic replacement failed at the crimp.

Might want to take a few minutes to check those lines running from the valves in your home to the toilets and sink faucets...


Just performed this same repair last week.
 
My niece's home got totally flooded when the toilet water line broke and they were away for a few days. Total disaster!

They had to gut the whole house, and used the occasion to remodel it while living in a rental for 6 months.
 
I'm also going from R22 to R410a. The quotes I got a few years ago, and the current one, they all said the current line set would be fine (but maybe because they didn't want to try pulling the new line set down the wall). One guy said if I wanted or needed new lines, they'd be running down the outside of the building (inside some kind of pipe/channel thing). Several of the quotes include flushing the lines with a solvent. I plan on going that route. Knowing the flush is super important, I'll make sure that gets done, and done right.

I'm also thinking about attempting a mostly DIY replacement. It can't by that hard to flush some old oil out of the lines and seem a waste to not reuse some perfectly good copper. I want to downsize the heat & air a little. The trick is to identify a smaller system that fits the same size tubing.
I've installed a energy monitor thermostat that's enabled me monitor the run times on some of the hottest & coldest days and I think downsizing will get me better humidity control. Still researching it but I read of some solder/brazing materials that are lower temperature and may make the nitrogen purge unnecessary.
 
My niece's home got totally flooded when the toilet water line broke and they were away for a few days. Total disaster!

They had to gut the whole house, and used the occasion to remodel it while living in a rental for 6 months.
This is why I decided to not do handyman work for pay. It is my nightmare that I should make some mistake (or even not make it, but get it blamed on me) on an upstairs toilet and have this happen.
 
My niece's home got totally flooded when the toilet water line broke and they were away for a few days. Total disaster!

They had to gut the whole house, and used the occasion to remodel it while living in a rental for 6 months.
This is why I turn off the water whenever I leave for more than a day. Easy for me as I can just flip the switch on the well pump.
 
I once turned off the main, and forgot about the water softener, which started a regeneration while I was away but did not get water to run the cycle.

When I came back and took a shower, noticed that the water was salty.

It took a while to use enough water to wash the salt out of the system.

I do turn off the water in my second home when leaving, mainly because of the hazard of freezing but it is also for peace of mind in the summer.
 
I once turned off the main, and forgot about the water softener, which started a regeneration while I was away but did not get water to run the cycle.

When I came back and took a shower, noticed that the water was salty.

It took a while to use enough water to wash the salt out of the system.

I do turn off the water in my second home when leaving, mainly because of the hazard of freezing but it is also for peace of mind in the summer.
I made a similar mistake when we first moved here. I turned off the well, but forgot to turn off the hot water re circulation pump. When I returned, I found the water pressure tank full of very hot water.
 
This is why I decided to not do handyman work for pay. It is my nightmare that I should make some mistake (or even not make it, but get it blamed on me) on an upstairs toilet and have this happen.
I got to be a hero in a similar circumstance. When my BIL & SIL moved into a new 2 story house with an upstairs laundry, I put a pan under the washer and installed water alarms in that pan and the one under the WH. 2 years later they had a leak, the alarm went off, they were home and got things turned off before it was disasterous. Victory!
 
A screw ended up in DW's van tire so I put a plug in it. :cool: Set all tire pressures to factory. All this in 100 F outdoor temp. :blush: (tire shops all closed today)
 
Costco will fix a tire by applying a patch from inside. Plugging is not good. It may destroy the thread and cause layer separation between plies later.

I once had a devious slow leak that I found only after a long time. It was caused by a staple!

Now, imagine making a much bigger hole from that, in order to insert a plug. :nonono:

I do carry a plug kit for emergency, but avoid using it unless absolutely necessary.
 
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Costco will fix a tire by applying a patch from inside. Plugging is not good. It may destroy the thread and cause layer separation between plies later.

I once had a devious slow leak that I found only after a long time. It was caused by a staple!

Now, imagine making a much bigger hole from that, in order to insert a plug. :nonono:

I do carry a plug kit for emergency, but avoid using it unless absolutely necessary.

Costco is too busy on Sundays here to even think about using them. The tires are near life's end so I'm no too worried about it. I've plugged tires before with no issues, not that plugging is exempt from a later problem.
 
My niece's home got totally flooded when the toilet water line broke and they were away for a few days. Total disaster!

They had to gut the whole house, and used the occasion to remodel it while living in a rental for 6 months.

For us the old turn the handle valve gave way while we were away, a drain saved the house.

Now I turn OFF the water if we leave the house overnight.
 
Changed a headlight in my 1969 Camaro. I never drive it at night but just the thought of it being out bugged me lol.

Changed all the small bulbs in the dash to new LED brighter bulbs on the same car. Now my lights are much brighter and it looks really nice.

Also removed the gauge lenses for the speedometer and gas tank and used a polishing system to clean them up...they had lots of spiderweb scratches from years of touching/cleaning. This worked really well and they are nice and clear now.

It's nice to finally have time to work on my show car.

DSCF3227.jpg
 
Replaced the line from the valve to the fill mechanism on the toilet.

Picked up a Fluidmaster stainless braided line this time since the previous generic plastic replacement failed at the crimp.

Might want to take a few minutes to check those lines running from the valves in your home to the toilets and sink faucets...

Those stainless steel line are not infallible either. Last year when I went to cut grass at one of my rentals, I was met with a shower of water when I went into the basement. I found the 4 month old stainless steel line had a pinhole, it had been leaking for hours.
 
Those stainless steel line are not infallible either. Last year when I went to cut grass at one of my rentals, I was met with a shower of water when I went into the basement. I found the 4 month old stainless steel line had a pinhole, it had been leaking for hours.

Yes nothing is infallible, but the way the line is crimped to the connector is better on the Fluidmaster than on the previous generic plastic line.

Everyone reading this should take a few minutes to check those lines, especially the ones from the sink cutoff valves to the sink faucets often hidden by a vanity.
 
My garage door opener failed. It has a chain drive, and the sprocket gear at the end of the drive beam broke. The sprocket is plastic.

Thought about replacing the whole thing, which is not that expensive, but it takes some work. Wonder if I could get a replacement gear. But the brand is old, and may be defunct. Just try eBay anyway. Son of a gun, somebody has it. Just a few bucks, and a few days of waiting, and the thing works again.

The above repair was something like 10 years ago. The garage door opener is as old as the house, which is 33 years now.
 
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I'm also thinking about attempting a mostly DIY replacement. It can't by that hard to flush some old oil out of the lines and seem a waste to not reuse some perfectly good copper. I want to downsize the heat & air a little. The trick is to identify a smaller system that fits the same size tubing.
I've installed a energy monitor thermostat that's enabled me monitor the run times on some of the hottest & coldest days and I think downsizing will get me better humidity control. Still researching it but I read of some solder/brazing materials that are lower temperature and may make the nitrogen purge unnecessary.
It looks like the line set tubing size is the same on every system I've looked at, and matches the old system I'm replacing. I did very little research on braising since I'm outsourcing that bit. My assumption on the flush was that the agent was volitile enough such that pulling a vacuum would cause it to evaporate. That's just speculation, though.
 
Changed a headlight in my 1969 Camaro. I never drive it at night but just the thought of it being out bugged me lol.

Changed all the small bulbs in the dash to new LED brighter bulbs on the same car. Now my lights are much brighter and it looks really nice.

Also removed the gauge lenses for the speedometer and gas tank and used a polishing system to clean them up...they had lots of spiderweb scratches from years of touching/cleaning. This worked really well and they are nice and clear now.

It's nice to finally have time to work on my show car.

View attachment 32588

Very nice! :cool:
 
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