change shower faucet and kitchen faucet

You don't need a licensed plumber to replace a couple faucets, if you're not willing to do it yourself just hire a good handyman to do it, it will be a lot cheaper.
 
if he "knew" they were broken over the phone thats all you need to know. Either youve found the only omniscient plumber, or you need to find a different plumber.

If I was a plumber, for the small price of 2 shut-off valves, new shut-off valves would be part of installing any new fixture. It takes 5 minutes and guarantees no leak in the near future. I'm not even not a plumber and I replace all old shut-off valves when a new fixture goes in.
 
There is nothing wrong with the kitchen faucet shutoff valves.
He insisted he will have to replace them.
He said this when I asked for a quote on the phone!

Honestly, replacing a shutoff valve is pretty straightforward, and so is replacing a kitchen faucet. I've done both in recent years, and I'm no Bob Vila. Just watch some YouTube videos that show how to do everything step-by-step. You'll end up saving yourself many hundreds of dollars, and you'll learn some useful skills along the way.
 
Honestly, replacing a shutoff valve is pretty straightforward, and so is replacing a kitchen faucet. I've done both in recent years, and I'm no Bob Vila. Just watch some YouTube videos that show how to do everything step-by-step. You'll end up saving yourself many hundreds of dollars, and you'll learn some useful skills along the way.
+1
 
Since I have an existing Moen shower faucet with Posi-Temp valve, I do not have to have the valve replaced.

I need to have only the "trim" as they call it replaced.
I just have to tell them that the set screw on the handle is stripped and to be prepared for that.

I too replaced a cartridge on a Moen shower faucet. You just need to pay close attention to the disassembly of the old cartridge or the new handle will turn in circles cutting on and off. Maybe a 1/2 hour labor plus time of going to the plumbing supply or Lowes/Home Depot.

I agree with the others about the cutoff under the kitchen sink. Unless leaking, don't replace. They should be good for 30 years in most circumstances.

Let me warn you about the pipes in my last house. They were CPVC pipes--cream colored. After 10 years, the pipes get brittle and they crack easily. I kicked a valve under the toilet by mistake, and the pipe sheared off at the floor. To get down 19 stairs, run to the other end of the basement and climb up on a bar stool to get to the water cutoff took me 1 minute. Needless to say I had to replace the ceiling in my garage underneath--another job. I then did the same thing replacing a bathroom faucet and had a minor flood on a downstairs bedroom ceiling. Some of us learn the hard way.

I am appalled when I hear stories of "craftsmen" charging extremely high labor rates for simple almost do it yourself jobs--like hanging a toilet. I just bought 2 new toilets that eat golf balls for $200 each, and putting them in is a 15 minute job each. Most of our service calls are $159 plus actual labor time to do the individual jobs.

I'm also an amateur electrician, but that's another story.
 
In defense of the plumber, they don't want a call-back. Many customers won't understand that the call-back might have had nothing to do with the work the plumber did, so then they bad-mouth that plumber to their friends ("two months later, I had a leak - that plumber wanted to charge me to fix it again! What a rip-off!).

There is already a service call charge. It might be overkill, but I can kinda see why a plumber doesn't want to take any short cuts or leave anything to chance. While he/she's there, just replace anything that might be associated with the repair.

-ERD50

^ ^ ^

Yes, I think that is the thinking of most professional plumbers. It is insurance of a sort to protect both the plumber's reputation and give the customer a top notch job that will last.

But with licensed plumbers operating in a market of state-limited competition, that insurance does come with high price to consumers. Sometimes that "insurance" is warranted, but I suspect a lot of time it is not.
 
A little off topic, but dealing with installers. Just replaced the dishwasher. Installation price was $150 (includes disposal of old dishwasher), plus any extra materials.

Sounded a little high, but we used this place before and were happy with the service.

The installer is independent, but basically just services this one seller. Install took 2 hours. Complete replacement of all hoses and wiring. An extra $50 for two additional hoses (Dishwasher is not adjacent to sink, so a longer run), and the original was installed with a new kitchen. Let's just say the removal and install of hosing was NOT simple.

Yeah, I paid $50 for $10 worth of hoses. But very satisfied with the work and professional attitude.

I will definitely return to this supplier for any thing else. There prices are good, and the install team is excellent.

Some times paying a little more is money well spent.

I know if I did the install, I would have used all of the old hoses, which were cheap plastic and not braided like the new ones.
 
Some times paying a little more is money well spent.

^ Absolutely. The trick is knowing when that's the case, as in your situation, and when you are simply padding the profit margin of the seller. Here's an example:

Our electric WH is 11 years old. We've lived here 23 years (original owners) and due to our well water quality never had a WH last more than a few years, so I'm at the point where I want to replace it rather than wait for it to fail. That always seems to happen at the most inconvenient time.

Just for grins I got estimates from Home Depot and a local plumbing company for an installed replacement. Both wanted $2,000 plus, which I consider ridiculous.

Costco had a (closeout?) sale on water heaters and for $216, including tax and delivery, I purchased a new WH including a two year labor and 10 year parts guarantee. A local handyman charged $250 for installation, including new connections and hauling away the old WH.

So, I said no to blow that dough. :LOL:
 
^ Absolutely. The trick is knowing when that's the case, as in your situation, and when you are simply padding the profit margin of the seller. .......
Costco had a (closeout?) sale on water heaters and for $216, including tax and delivery, I purchased a new WH including a two year labor and 10 year parts guarantee. A local handyman charged $250 for installation, including new connections and hauling away the old WH.

So, I said no to blow that dough. :LOL:

The key there is having a talented, reliable handyman. They can be hard to find.

Last time we replaced the water heater I was was away on a business trip. DW took care of it, but I am pretty sure it was around $800 all in (6-7 years ago). $2000 is highway robbery.
 
Last time we replaced the water heater I was was away on a business trip. DW took care of it, but I am pretty sure it was around $800 all in (6-7 years ago). $2000 is highway robbery.

Saw this on the Home Depot website:

Nationwide costs generally fall within the range of $1,300 to $2,000. Average Total: $1,500

The site also says costs vary nationally and in my particular location costs are 20% to 30% above the national average. No idea why - other than the obvious profit margin opportunity.

Edit: Another website with WH replacement cost information:

...the national average cost to replace a water heater is more than $1,700. But don’t forget to factor in another hundred bucks or so for the diagnosis fee...
 
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Right, Self dentistry is hard enough.

Remember our friend redduck? In a thread about borescopes, he suggested that it could be useful for DIY colonoscopy.

Redduck has been absent for a long time. I wonder about him.
 
Remember our friend redduck? In a thread about borescopes, he suggested that it could be useful for DIY colonoscopy.

Redduck has been absent for a long time. I wonder about him.
Maybe he fell into a deep hole, where the sun don't shine.
 
I replaced my whole countertop, sink, garbage disposal and dishwasher myself 15 years ago. Last year, the faucet hot water line started to leak. I could not get to it under the sink easily. The only way to get a new faucet replaced is to lift the sink. The garbage disposal and dishwasher will need to be disconnected first. It was a bad design on my part.

So I put a plastic bottle underneath to collect the water and drain it. It has been there for a year. I will get to it when I have to remodel the whole kitchen again before I sell the house.
 
Maybe he fell into a deep hole, where the sun don't shine.


I am also afraid the worst thing has happened to my friend. Your post reminds me of the lyrics of a favorite song:

"Like a tunnel that you follow to a tunnel of its own,
Down a hollow to a cavern where the sun has never shone..."


Can we take an entr'acte from plumbing and faucet to listen to a melancholy song?

 
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Last month I had a handyman change out 8 shut off valves (4 sinks x 2 valves each). He also removed and replaced 2 bathroom faucets. He charged me $60 an hour x 5 hours. I had everything cleaned out and ready to go for him in order to minimize his time. I also hung out and handed him his tools, plugged in his power tool, emptied his drain buckets, etc.

Shop around. You can do better.
 
A plumber quoted me $750 and that isn't even for parts.

He was telling me I needed new shutoff valves for the kitchen faucet.
This is a 10-year old house with shutoff valves in the line.

I know that the leaky shower faucet may be tricky given that the set screw is stripped or I would change the cartridge myself.

Do I really need to spend $750:confused:?

Not trying to offend plumbers but they are maybe the most overpriced profession out there.
I had one quote me over 1500 to install my water softener. To make a long story short, one guy installed it and it took him an hour and 45 minutes.
Find one that works for himself and it will be or should be much more reasonable.
 
A plumber quoted me $750 and that isn't even for parts.

He was telling me I needed new shutoff valves for the kitchen faucet.
This is a 10-year old house with shutoff valves in the line.

I know that the leaky shower faucet may be tricky given that the set screw is stripped or I would change the cartridge myself.

Do I really need to spend $750:confused:?

Do you have legos? I can help!

Sorry, I'm not the best DIY for home improvements but like to think that I can. Shower heads are an easy install. All you usually need is whatever that kind of sticky tape (not actually sticky) but fits very well on the threads the shower head screws onto. The tape I got is pink, think the color matters for how well it seals and pink is one of the better ones.

Sorry again, somewhat off topic but on topic.
 
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In my area this job would cost under $350 for the labor. Changing out the shutoff valves is no big deal so well worth it. I don't get bids on something like this - I simply call the plumber and he will charge me by the hour.
 
The current house (vintage 1974 - even found pieces of the original orange kitchen counter and the "sculpted" (multi-level) avocado green carpet in the basement) and the only shutoff I've replaced is in the basement bath when the from-the-factory flexible hose for the low-flow toilet was a different thread than the original shutoff. 5 minutes with a torch had the old shutoff gone and the new shutoff in place and cheaper than a new hose.

I've replaced the sink faucet in the kitchen and the vanity faucet in the master bath :-( Remember those hospital pillows that weren't truly useful for sleeping? They do serve as acceptable padding when you're on your back under the counter ;-)

I was 74 when I remodeled the bathroom in the basement - a bit slower than in previous decade. The better half considers it acceptable for her use...
 
shut off valves for kitchen sink.

I just did this last month when I replaced my sink and faucet. If your piping is copper, its a quick fix. HD sells shut off valves with a 1/2 compression fitting on one end and a male 3/8 threaded fitting on the other for < $10. Most new faucets has 3/8 inch female fitting on the end. Just turn off the water, cut the pipe (you need a small pipe cutter, but they are cheap), deburr the cut with sand paper, put on the valve , hook up the faucet and away you go. I would recommend that you test that your old shutoff valves work before you cut the pipe.

I replaced my shower valve about 5 years ago. I soldered it in. It looks a bit messy but it hasn't leaked. I suppose you could use shark bit fittings. I have used them in the past, but I don't like the idea of them inside the wall. I had one replaced by a local plumbing company about 15 years ago; they charged an arm and a leg. They were also pissed that I provided the faucet and tried to convince me to use a Moen that they had. I did change my mind, but I bet they added the lost markup to the cost of the job.
 
Update

The plumbers --- there were 2 men who showed up (one was a trainee) --- arrived within the 30 minute window the scheduler gave me.
Replacing the shower handle and the cartridge took the longest time about 40 minutes.
I had all the parts from Home Depot.
They shut off water to the whole house.
As I knew the shower handle set screw was stripped.

I also had them replace the shower handle in the other bath.
I should have also gotten another cartridge.

$165 including tax for the entire job which took roughly an hour.
They did not charge a separate service call.

The kitchen faucet was not replaced.
 
Sounds like you found a decent plumber. Did they replace the kitchen valves?
 
I've never done routine replacement of cut offs (if it ain't broke, don't fix it). You can rebuild one in a few minutes by replacing the soft bits. It's possible the seat is pitted, which is part of the valve body, but even that can be ground smooth with the right tool. I'd rather leave the original soldered cut-off valve than cut the copper and put on a compression fitting. And there's only so much length for cutting; you probably can only cut once and you're out of pipe.

I "get it" that the guy bids a job involving turning off the cut-offs, replacing the faucet, turning on the cut-offs, and then there's a dripping cut-off that wasn't priced into the bid. The installer needs to protect themselves from that eventuality, but maybe only repair, rather than swap the cut-offs. But at the hourly rate, the installer will do the fastest thing.
 
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