How to Fix Caulking Error

[TromboneAl]

I grabbed a tube of this from my paint box

https://www.dap.com/dap-products-ph...th-microban-antimicrobial-product-protection/

and did some caulking. It looked great and hid some cracks in the paint below it. I didn't notice that it dries clear

I know I can't paint it, but can I put some more caulk (same type, but dries white) on top of it?

Thanks.

 

[SecondCor521]

I'm not an expert, but I don't think so.

I think the recommended course of action is to remove the clear caulk and re-caulk with a white caulk.

 

[COcheesehead]

I think the silicone nature of the product will repel a coat over the top. You might have to razor out.

 

[Gumby]

I made nearly the same mistake many years ago by using silicone caulking in a situation where I wanted to paint over it. It required pulling out the silicone caulk and putting in latex caulk that could be painted. What a pain in the butt that was.

 

[Ronstar]

I think the clear caulk needs to be removed and redone with the white. It’s tough to put silicone caulk over silicon caulk unless the clear stuff is a really small bead.

 

[Telly]

It's worth a try. I've used that caulk in the past, but only white. If it was a true silicone caulk, you'd be SOL. But it is a latex caulk, water cleanup, with some silicone added. That, and the paintable feature I would think would make it work. Using white, I'm pretty sure I had added a second layer once when there was more shrinkage in the first application than I wanted.

 

[target2019]

I grabbed a tube of this from my paint box

https://www.dap.com/dap-products-ph...th-microban-antimicrobial-product-protection/

and did some caulking. It looked great and hid some cracks in the paint below it. I didn't notice that it dries clear

I know I can't paint it, but can I put some more caulk (same type, but dries white) on top of it?

The label says paintable, so give it a try on a small area. If it's a wet/damp area of use (bathroom?) you may want to make sure the paint you use is suitable for the location.

 

[Bamaman]

That's a latex caulk, not silicone. It's paintable. I would think it also would be hard to remove since it's also like a glue.

 

[CRLLS]

From your link:

Specially formulated siliconized latex provides maximum adhesion and flexibility for a watertight seal. Paintable. Easy water clean-up.

You are good to go.

 

[euro]

I know I can't paint it, but can I put some more caulk (same type, but dries white) on top of it?

Thanks.

Agree with others, painting is your best shot - what makes you think you can’t paint it?

 

[Jerry1]

If you paint it, aren’t you going to lose some of the properties that you wanted from the caulk? Paint won’t be flexible and it won’t do well with mildew unless you buy a paint that is mildew resistant. If it’s just cosmetic, it go ahead and paint. If you want the properties of caulk, you either have to remove it or try, as you asked, to cover it with another coat of caulk.

 

[ERD50]

Agree with others, painting is your best shot - what makes you think you can’t paint it?

Yes, I don't get why the OP say "I know I can't paint it,". The link provided says:

Specially formulated siliconized latex provides maximum adhesion and flexibility for a watertight seal. Paintable. Easy water clean-up.

It's not silicone caulk, it's latex with some added silicone.

Just paint it if that was your original intention. If you think a solid color would take the paint better, add a layer of new caulk, siliconized will stick just fine to siliconized.

-ERD50

 

[Rianne]

Great thread. Caulk drives me crazy. I will paint those cracks.

 

[latexman]

Take it from me, paint it.

It's "KWIK SEAL PLUS® siliconized acrylic latex sealant" according to the technical data sheet. That's somewhat vague even to us in the industry. Unfortunatly, it's common to have some marketing spin even in a TDS. It's one of two things. The best one being it's an all acrylic latex polymerized with some methacryloxy functional trimethoxy silane in the monomer mix. That way the methacrylate and methoxy functionality is built into the polymer backbone. The second, cheaper one is a blend of an all acrylic latex with a silicone latex. Not tied to all the polymer backbones the functional entities are less fixed. I can't tell which it is, but that is immaterial now that it is applied.

 

[Qs Laptop]

Caulk drives me crazy.

I had girlfriends like that.

(I'll get me coat...)

 

[ponyboy]

Why would one be using caulk to fill in cracks? Is this on drywall? The idiots before me ran caulk in some of the corners of the wall. They were too dumb/lazy to mud/tape the corner (inside corners.) I ripped it out immediately and did it the proper way. Yes, it takes a little more effort, but looks a helluva lot better.

Now...if you're filling in gaps between drywall and baseboard...thats a different story, and completely acceptable.

 

[jazz4cash]

I dunno Al. The stuff in your link says “white”. I’ve used it a lot in the bathroom but never needed to pair over it. I don’t think that product comes in clear so I think we have a mystery here.

 

[TromboneAl]

Not sure where I got the idea it wasn't paintable. It does not say "paintable" anywhere on the label.

This is where the shower insert meets the drywall. The old caulk had failed, and in removing it, some of the paint peeled off.

I'll paint over it. Thanks.

It looked great until the caulk went clear.

This is a stopgap until we have the whole bathroom professionally painted.

 

[ERD50]

I dunno Al. The stuff in your link says “white”. I’ve used it a lot in the bathroom but never needed to pair over it. I don’t think that product comes in clear so I think we have a mystery here.

That link has a selector - click on white, clear, biscuit. But the image doesn't change.

Not sure where I got the idea it wasn't paintable. It does not say "paintable" anywhere on the label. ....

I'm still confused. Is the tube different from the one in your link? That image clearly says "paintable" on the tube. Third bullet-point, ~ 3/4 of the way down:

...
This is where the shower insert meets the drywall. The old caulk had failed, and in removing it, some of the paint peeled off.

I'll paint over it. Thanks.

It looked great until the caulk went clear.

...

This is a stopgap until we have the whole bathroom professionally painted.

If the old caulk failed, go with 100% silicone.

-ERD50

 

[Just_Steve]

That link has a selector - click on white, clear, biscuit. But the image doesn't change.



I'm still confused. Is the tube different from the one in your link? That image clearly says "paintable" on the tube. Third bullet-point, ~ 3/4 of the way down:

If the old caulk failed, go with 100% silicone.

-ERD50

In the correct color because that won't paint.

 

[ERD50]

In the correct color because that won't paint.

Yes, 100% silicone won't take paint.

But I learned a trick. Take clear silicone, add in some of powdered grout to match the color you want ( ~ 1 part powder to 3~4 parts caulk, IIRC), mix well and apply.Mix it in a freezer bag, then clip a corner of the bag and apply like a pastry dough bag, or if you emptied the tube (the caulking gun type), you can remove the bottom lid, squeeze it all back in the tube and use that to apply it.

Worked a treat in my bathroom remodel, ~ 10 years ago now.

-ERD50

 

[Just_Steve]

Yes, 100% silicone won't take paint.

But I learned a trick. Take clear silicone, add in some of powdered grout to match the color you want ( ~ 1 part powder to 3~4 parts caulk, IIRC), mix well and apply.Mix it in a freezer bag, then clip a corner of the bag and apply like a pastry dough bag, or if you emptied the tube (the caulking gun type), you can remove the bottom lid, squeeze it all back in the tube and use that to apply it.

Worked a treat in my bathroom remodel, ~ 10 years ago now.

-ERD50

This is now burned into my brain forever, outstanding.

 

[TromboneAl]

I'm still confused. Is the tube different from the one in your link? That image clearly says "paintable" on the tube. Third bullet-point, ~ 3/4 of the way down:

-ERD50

Apparently it is:

My tube was in the paint box (unopened) for years, so it may be an older formula.

 

[ERD50]

Apparently it is:

My tube was in the paint box (unopened) for years, so it may be an older formula.

It might also not be good anymore. You could try contacting the mfg, they might be able to tell you if that formula of that age was paintable (or just do it). Formulas for many of these things have changed due to regulations on low volatile compounds.

I had a tube of pure silicone caulk, it wasn't all that old, and it wasn't dried out or thick, so I thought it was OK. But a day later, it hadn't dried at all! Turns out that can happen, the drying compounds off-gas or degrade or something. It was a real mess removing all that gunk. Now, before tackling any big project with silicone caulk, I squeeze some out, and let it dry for 1/2 hour, and it should at least form a good skin by then. If not, toss that tube!

-ERD50

 

[ERD50]

Originally Posted by ERD50 View Post
Yes, 100% silicone won't take paint.

But I learned a trick. Take clear silicone, add in some of powdered grout to match the color you want ( ~ 1 part powder to 3~4 parts caulk, IIRC), mix well and apply.Mix it in a freezer bag, then clip a corner of the bag and apply like a pastry dough bag, or if you emptied the tube (the caulking gun type), you can remove the bottom lid, squeeze it all back in the tube and use that to apply it.

Worked a treat in my bathroom remodel, ~ 10 years ago now.

-ERD50

This is now burned into my brain forever, outstanding.

It was kind of interesting how I came to that. When I remodeled the bathroom, I purposely chose a grout that had color matching caulk, both sold at Home Depot (PolyBlend brand, FYI).

But the caulk failed within a month. I figured it was my error, that maybe it was still too damp behind the caulk when I applied it (maybe the thin-set for the tile was still releasing some humidity?). So I pulled it out, ran fans on everything 24 hours/day for a week (using the other bathroom at this time anyhow), to make sure it was dry. Re caulked it, let it dry for a 4 days - it lasted 1 week! Was getting all gummy.

The caulk was not 100% silicone, but the product info sheet said:

For caulking around sinks, tubs and showers and where tile meets tile or another surface.

AREAS OF USE
■ Around tubs, showers and sinks

and:

Do not use in areas with constant water exposure.

I ended up in a testy exchange with their product group, they were condescending saying "I was not familiar with the product", really odd (that's why I read your product info!).

hah, I found the exchange - do I sound upset?

YOU WROTE: "I understand how if your not familiar with the product the instructions can be misinterpreted and I apologize that you are unhappy with the product."


This is insulting, as is your offer to refund the purchase price. I can get that from Home Depot more easily. I have a lot of time and money into this project, and it was designed based on your color-matched products. Now that you have advised me that they don't work as you label/advertise, I am in a tough spot that could cost me hundreds of dollars and much more time. Your labeling is deceptive, and you say it must be my problem, I guess I can't read?, or I'm just not familiar with the product

Of course I'm not familiar with the product - that is why I read the label. And the label says:

"For caulking around sinks, tubs and showers and where tile meets tile or another surface." and "not for areas with constant water exposure". Again, in plain English, 2 showers a day is NOT "constant", that would be 24 hours a day. I am familiar with the English language. Words have meanings.

It seems to be you are intentionally deceitful with your labeling, and if a few people take the time to complain, just offer a refund. Cheap way to get more sales, but it is costing me a lot. Your company is familiar with the product - why doesn't your label reflect what you know about it?

Oh boy. Anyone who has remodeled a bathroom will probably understand how worked up one can get over something like this. Never again!

So I searched for alternatives, and wondered about adding the powdered grout to clear 100% Silicone caulk. I tried a small sample, seemed to be OK. But I was afraid something in the powder might cause the Silicone caulk to degrade over time.

The funny thing was, lots and lots of people on-line said "you are crazy, you can't do that, it won't work!" But those people never tried it. Then I found a guy who sells a kit to do this, and he seemed to have plenty of happy customers. His kit is not needed, but it makes it convenient, he sells empty tubes and bags to mix/move the caulk, and has instructions on his site (or did at the time ~ 10 years ago). So I went with it, and it is still just fine 10 years later.

So that's my story on mixing powdered grout with 100% Silicone.

-ERD50