I need a new router

I've had Frontier FiOS since 2006 (formerly Verizon). They've twice sent me new Actiontec routers in conjunction with speed upgrades, but they never ask for the old ones back. I threw away the oldest one from 2006 but I still use the other two, plus two more that I bought on Woot for $9.99 each a couple years ago.

It's configured as 1 router and 3 access points with same SSID and password. We get very good wireless coverage this way, but the main reason was to position the routers in order to hardwire several stationary devices with high bandwidth needs... 3 smart TVs, 2 Fire TV boxes, 2 HDHomeRun tuners, Obi-200 VoIP adapter, and a desktop PC. I prefer hardwire over WiFi for non-mobile devices and I've run a lot of Cat5 in the attic and down walls to enable that.

Anyway, FWIW, I get solid performance with cheap routers, but lots of them.
 
I bought this one in April:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R2AZLD2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It is listed as the number one best selling computer router bought through Amazon. I guess it's OK although it is more expensive than some. I have been getting bumped off now and then but I think that is not due to the router. It has plenty of range and Frank can log in to it from next door, using my password, if he wants to.

Set up was easy and almost instant. Took less than 30 seconds, IIRC.
Looks like a good router choice. Nowadays I reboot the cable modem and router every couple of weeks.

There is a Netgear app, wifi analyst, for phones. It is handy to get a better idea of signal strength around the house. This led me to get a wifi extender for one location, a Netgear N300 for $25 at Amazon.
 
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Thanks, I bookmarked it for when I need a replacement. $25 is good.

My router (NETGEAR Router WGR614v10), and I've bought the same one for several family members, was cheap, and got mixed reviews. But it has always worked just fine for everyone. It's been in constant use here for 4.5 years, no issues that I recall, we get a strong signal throughout the house and outside for a ways (I should check for updated FW, though I suppose support has ended).

I guess maybe the more $$ ones make sense if you want the USB capability, and/or have a very challenging environment, though I think a cheap repeater might be a better solution for range issues?

-ERD50

That is funny I used the NETGEAR Router WGR614 v3 for many years before upgrading.
 
From my view it sometimes is easier to use multiple routers together... or at least that is what I did.
Early version: I used something similar to the $25 TP-Link router (maybe the same one but cost me $20 when I bought them) I ended up using 3 of them eventually. Internet (cable) entrance was in the basement at one end of the house, so one as next to the cable modem. The second one was on the first floor at the other end of the house above a crawl space. This is in the family room where I most often use the computer, but more importantly where we have the AV equipment. Other than the Roku, all network enabled equipment which came with Ethernet ports, not wifi. However, the cost for the custom wifi adapters for these was stupid, so putting a second router here made cost sense. At that time I was also working from home and had computer and electronic test equipment in another part of the basement that needed a network, so this was where the 3rd router went. These routers had a mode where each would extend the same wifi SSID. The down side to this in this mode is that the wifi has to send data more than once on the same radio in some cases. Later I ran an Ethernet cable from the router by the cable modem to the router in the family room.

Later I updated to using 3 RT-AC1200 ($50 each at the time). The work space in the basement moved up to the 2nd floor... and I'm not working. I added Ethernet over power from the basement to the second floor. I have all 3 routers providing 3 SSIDs(5G, 2,4G and a guest network--segregated from the intranet.

Now I could have used the 5G on the basement to 2nd floor as a media bridge and not used the ethernet over power for that connection. This would make the family room router as the only 5G access point.

Routers with multiple 5G radios are useful for creating these media bridges. Many have more than one 5G radios... and this is one of the reasons for using something more capable than the RT-AC1200. But it works good for me.
So why would I use all 3 routers for the same SSIDs? I get great performance everywhere and I don't have to tell it to switch routers manually.
 
LOL, I must of had my low tech hat on when on read the thread title, as I was thinking of a router for woodworking.
 
:LOL:

I was kind of thinking the same thing (though I am a techy, and understand most of it), as your OP included:

I know nothing about routers other than:

1. Apple routers are white
....

What would you buy. (My computers are all Macs, as well as my phones)

Thanks

And then people start going off the tech deep-end, with port-forwarding, firewall settings and on an on!

Relax, any low cost router with decent reviews (several mentioned in this thread) should work fine for you out of the box. Just buy it plug it in, and you should be fine. Post back in the unlikely event that you have troubles. Also post back in the more likely case that all goes well.

And relax. :)

-ERD50
 
:LOL:

I was kind of thinking the same thing (though I am a techy, and understand most of it), as your OP included:



And then people start going off the tech deep-end, with port-forwarding, firewall settings and on an on!

Relax, any low cost router with decent reviews (several mentioned in this thread) should work fine for you out of the box. Just buy it plug it in, and you should be fine. Post back in the unlikely event that you have troubles. Also post back in the more likely case that all goes well.

And relax. :)

-ERD50

NO NO NO!!!!!
Change the SSID, user name and password.. There are a few things that one should do for security.

In my case with groups of wired devices in multiple locations away from the first router/cable modem makes things a little more involved... but still easy.

I would recommend going to a dual band router as the OP is updating and will be getting some other new equipment.
 
Ubiquiti's UniFi APs and EdgeRouters are incredible bang for the buck, but as you said are beyond most home users. The separation of more secure/important devices like PCs and IoT devices (DVR, thermostat, cams, etc) is something everyone should be aware of but nothing will happen until there's a huge incident.

Properly setting this up is increasingly challenging, even for tech savvy folks.

Internet Of Things

If something that's plugged into your home network gets compromised, now you basically have a "bad guy" plugged into your home network. That's bad because that means the bad guy can get to your PC, Mac, NAS, shared storage, etc. In Windows (and probably on Mac), you're probably familiar with the question that asks if the network you're connecting to is a home network or not. The idea here is that the home network is trusted, so more "stuff" can happen between two devices on that home network. But, guess what, the bad guy just got into your baby monitor and now is on your trusted network: BAD!

Ubiquity Edge Router X is cheap and can be configured to have true separation between networks. The problem is that it takes skill to set-up.

When people say "router" nowadays, they might be mixing "router" with "wifi access point". They are often the same device, but don't have to be the same device.
 
NO NO NO!!!!!
Change the SSID, user name and password.. There are a few things that one should do for security.
....
Why change these assuming the password was a strong one for the previous router? If changed, all your connected devices have to be changed too.

I know there are places where password changing is forced. Makes sense for some critical sites maybe like the CIA. But a home router?
 
NO NO NO!!!!!
Change the SSID, user name and password.. There are a few things that one should do for security. ...

Relax, this is generally not necessary (but a good point to bring up, just in case).

The reason I say not needed, is at least with the most recent routers I've bought (and this was a few years back), they came with a unique random generated password (and SSID I think) out of the box. So that security issue has been pretty much solved. Of course, I reverted them to the old network name and pw I'd been using, so I wouldn't need to change a bunch of devices, but all that is very easy for a non-techy, just part of the set up.

But yes, if the out-of-the-box password is a generic 'password', or 'admin', or '1234', it should be changed.

-ERD50
 
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Enable WPA2 and MAC filtering.
 
Since the OP said they were in an Apple environment, I poked around some and found these highly recommended (the higher priced ones are generally more capable):

D-Link Ultra AC5300 $300
Netgear Nighthawk R6700 AC1750 $150
TP-Link Archer C9 $125
TP-Link Archer C7 $85
Eero $199 but they recommend three for $499

But:
You can still buy an Apple Time Capsule for $299 (2 TB model) or $399 for 3 TB
Airport Extreme still sells for $199 without a hard drive
Airport Express is $99

For Apple folks, it would probably be worthwhile to look at the specs for these routers and decide. I'm using a two year old Time Capsule that should be around for a while.
 
Why change these assuming the password was a strong one for the previous router? If changed, all your connected devices have to be changed too.

I know there are places where password changing is forced. Makes sense for some critical sites maybe like the CIA. But a home router?
Not the SSID password, but the logon to the router itself where someone could change all the setting.

Relax, this is generally not necessary (but a good point to bring up, just in case).

The reason I say not needed, is at least with the most recent routers I've bought (and this was a few years back), they came with a unique random generated password (and SSID I think) out of the box. So that security issue has been pretty much solved. Of course, I reverted them to the old network name and pw I'd been using, so I wouldn't need to change a bunch of devices, but all that is very easy for a non-techy, just part of the set up.

But yes, if the out-of-the-box password is a generic 'password', or 'admin', or '1234', it should be changed.

-ERD50
The AC routers I bought within the last two years had admin for the user name, but had a unique... but not a unique as I would like a password. Much of it was systematic. If you get one already setup with good passwords and user names, then I could see leaving them. But I have not bought one yet that does. But then, I may upgrade my stuff every decade or so.

Leaving user names and password on devices (not just routers) is one of the major mistakes that allows people to hack user equipment.
 
What would you buy. (My computers are all Macs, as well as my phones)

Thanks
As you have read, most will recommend what they have. As long as the model is recent, you'll be in good shape. Me? I've tended to install Netgear routers over the years. I'm familiar with the interface, which helps making changes. Anything recent with AC in the specs will get you there.

Using old routers is ok. But you're taking on more risk when the old box isn't actively supported with firmware updates. When a security flaw is newly discovered, it probably won't be patched in an 10-year old consumer model.
 
Set up the new router. It wasn't exactly plug and play. Had to spend 2 hours on the chat with tech at Linksys, but seems to be working fine now. Faster and more range than my aging Apple, as hoped.
Now I need to figure out how to get music from iPhone and MacBook to stereo receiver. That's another thread.
Thanks for the input, all.
 
I have been pretty lucky with routers. Old one did the job for many years. When my internet speed went to 30 Mbps, I found the router was limited to around 12 Mbps. Still using it as a switch. My "new" router is 5 1/2 years old. Manufacturer is still updating firmware, so I have no reason to change, except I have heard so many good things about the Netgear Nighthawks.

One problem with my existing router is that the wireless coverage is not that great, but cheap range extenders fixed that..
 
Spooky how this thread is revived today!! My router has been acting funky for the past few days. Need to reboot every few days. Decided last night to replace today.

It's just about a year and a half old though...not old IMO but I never seem to get more than 2-3 years out of one. Off to Best Buy in an hour.
 
Set up the new router. It wasn't exactly plug and play. Had to spend 2 hours on the chat with tech at Linksys, but seems to be working fine now. Faster and more range than my aging Apple, as hoped.
Now I need to figure out how to get music from iPhone and MacBook to stereo receiver. That's another thread.
Thanks for the input, all.

I have AmpliFi mesh wifi systems at both our places and am extremely happy with it. Excellent coverage, fast speeds, reliable. Plus, it literally took 30 seconds to get running. Managed from an app.

To play music through your receiver, take a look at the Sonos CONNECT. It connects to your receiver like any other source, and runs from an app on your phone. Can play many music services, plus all the music on your phone and MacBook. One of our places has a wired audio system in pretty much every room that is run from a rack of various components in a central place. I hooked the Sonos up to that and can play all the music on my laptop and any music service I want. Also extremely easy to set up.
 
How long do routers last? I have a old blue Linksy router which must be 10 yrs old.

It is a wireless- G 2.4 GHZ broadband. Is this considered a dinosaur? I know next to nothing about routers. What specs should one look for a reliable router?
 
How long do routers last? I have a old blue Linksy router which must be 10 yrs old.

It is a wireless- G 2.4 GHZ broadband. Is this considered a dinosaur? I know next to nothing about routers. What specs should one look for a reliable router?
Most consumer tech items like this are designed for about 3 to 5 years. Some fail early, some go on forever. You are getting on the long end of it working OK (power supply, capacitors, etc).

However, I'm more worried about the software and settings in your case. The default settings and operations of routers have progressed quite a bit in 10 years. By default, they tend to stop the worst of hacker attacks. Your 10 year old router probably is wide open in comparison.

At 10 years, start your search for a replacement. It is time.
 
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