I've Dipped My Foot In 3D Printing Technology

[upupandaway]

Just a thought but if you get a rubber band and cut it to the ID of the cap and glue it on the inside you may be able to save it and have a nice fit. The breakage you saw is because it was thin and could also be poor layer adhesion from the printer not being tuned perfectly. The easiest fix is to make the outside thicker so more material exists to bond to each other. FYI this type of 3d printing is always weaker on the plane between the layers. Good printing and stronger materials like ABS can help this or annealing but that is a whole other conversation.

 

[easysurfer]

Lens Cap is Fixed!

I fixed the lens cap simply by adding some gaffer tape.

The cap won't win any beauty contests, but now the cap fits snugly over the lens and the tape keeps the 3D print from falling apart .

I'm going to go ahead a submit another print with some dimension changes for hopefully a better fit and cleaner look than tape. But if that fails too, no problem as this taped cap functions quite well .

 

[easysurfer]

Got 3D print #2 back from the library about an hour ago.

The print was a nice durable looking lens cover but unfortunately, now is too small (can anybody say Goldilocks?) and doesn't fit. Hit or miss.

I have 1 month to think about if I want to try again. I already used my allowed two prints per month ration.

Shall I print again, think I may err on the side of a bit too big, then do that glue a rubberband trick suggested by upupandaway earlier or some other rigging rather that get another wasted too small print.

 

[pjigar]

Looks like they are using PLA filament. Ask if they can print in ABS or PETG.

 

[Ronstar]

I'll print one for my camera and I'll report back. If it turns out ok, I can print one for you if you like. Like others have said, the dimensions have to be spot on. It takes an extremely precise measurement of the lens (with calipers), accuracy of the printer, and luck.

I have a Milwaukee packout system in my shop. I saw Milwaukee has wall mounting brackets, but I didn't want to replace my whole French cleat system with Milwaukee brackets. So I designed and printed my own brackets to connect to French cleats.

Dimensions there needed to be precise to work, and it turned out fine. But I have had designs of other things that needed to be tweaked in order to fit.

 

[easysurfer]

I'll print one for my camera and I'll report back. If it turns out ok, I can print one for you if you like. Like others have said, the dimensions have to be spot on. It takes an extremely precise measurement of the lens (with calipers), accuracy of the printer, and luck.

I have a Milwaukee packout system in my shop. I saw Milwaukee has wall mounting brackets, but I didn't want to replace my whole French cleat system with Milwaukee brackets. So I designed and printed my own brackets to connect to French cleats.

Dimensions there needed to be precise to work, and it turned out fine. But I have had designs of other things that needed to be tweaked in order to fit.

I learned that with the library precision prints isn't their strong suit. Mentioned it their "rules" along with only two 3D prints per month is no choice of color, filament type and they do their best to print according to dimensions, but no guarantees. I can't complain though as the library prints are totally free. I do think though that a task more suited is like printing out a benchy but not something that needs precision.

I went ahead a measured the lens barrel again with calipers. Came out to somewhere around 58.58 to 58.69 mm depending on how steady I could keep my hand.

Can your 3D printer can print with such precision? As you mentioned "It takes an extremely precise measurement of the lens (with calipers), accuracy of the printer, and luck". Sound almost as difficult of trying on a pair of shoes at the store .

Thank you for the generous offer. If your printer can print with such precision, I'd say go for it. But I wouldn't want you to spend too much time and effort tweaking to get things just right. Especially since my gaffer taped lens cap works fine and the camera is just a cheap camera I got for $25 on ebay.

 

[CRLLS]

You may want to find somebody who can print using TPE filament. It is supposed to be flexible. I would send them a model where it is slightly snug and let the TPE expand over the lens. Another alternative is to make 3 flexible fingers in the model that grip the lens but the major ID clears the lens. Some plastics bend more than others. and they act differently when they absorb moisture from the air. Good luck.

 

[ERD50]

From the examples I've seen across the internet, these 3D printers really seem like a 'hobby' to me. Potentially fun and interesting, but I rarely see any practicality to it.

Most of the examples I see on the "maker" sorts of posts strike me as "I did this with a 3D printer, because I can". Again, as a hobby, that's fine. But to take hours to print out a little project box that can be made better in different ways? And as I understand it, these plastics aren't all that strong, and it takes a LOT of time or extra processes for a smooth finish. I just don't see it (other than for the 'fun'/challenge of it).

Personally, I'd be much more interested in some sort of cutting head (on Z axis) on an X-Y table. I think you could make more robust parts by cutting away material (wood, plastic, aluminum) much easier/faster than by adding melted material.

But I don't have much use for that either, and my workshop space is a bit limited, so I've not been too excited about that either.

-ERD50

 

[Ronstar]

..Again, as a hobby, that's fine. But to take hours to print out a little project box that can be made better in different ways? And as I understand it, these plastics aren't all that strong, and it takes a LOT of time or extra processes for a smooth finish....
-ERD50

You do realize that a person can do other things while the printer is printing? So while the printer may take several hours to make something, the user may take only a few minutes.

I've been making bins and mounting brackets for my Milwaukee Packout system. Takes me maybe 5 minutes of design time and 2 minutes to fire up the printer. I do something else, and come back a few hours later to a finished piece. I have about a hundred things around here that I made that maybe took 10 minutes of my time each.

 

[ERD50]

You do realize that a person can do other things while the printer is printing? So while the printer may take several hours to make something, the user may take only a few minutes. ... .

Of course, I know it's not all 'hand on' time. But it is a wait, and errors can occur mid-way through, I imagine.

It's just a bit of a drag, like waiting for a glue-up to cure, or paint/finish coats to dry.

...
I've been making bins and mounting brackets for my Milwaukee Packout system. Takes me maybe 5 minutes of design time and 2 minutes to fire up the printer. I do something else, and come back a few hours later to a finished piece. I have about a hundred things around here that I made that maybe took 10 minutes of my time each.

That's good to hear. It's just that so much of what I've seen on the web seems like a solution looking for a problem. I think this lens cap is kind of an example, there's probably far better/simpler ways to make one, I just don't see 3D printing as a very good solution here.

Also, did you post any of those in the repair/make forum? I'd like to take a look.

That's no knock on OP. I think it's an interesting attempt, and he has some free access to a 3D printer, so worth a try. Good learning experience and worth posting here.

-ERD50

 

[Ronstar]

I learned that with the library precision prints isn't their strong suit. Mentioned it their "rules" along with only two 3D prints per month is no choice of color, filament type and they do their best to print according to dimensions, but no guarantees. I can't complain though as the library prints are totally free. I do think though that a task more suited is like printing out a benchy but not something that needs precision.

I went ahead a measured the lens barrel again with calipers. Came out to somewhere around 58.58 to 58.69 mm depending on how steady I could keep my hand.

Can your 3D printer can print with such precision? As you mentioned "It takes an extremely precise measurement of the lens (with calipers), accuracy of the printer, and luck". Sound almost as difficult of trying on a pair of shoes at the store .

Thank you for the generous offer. If your printer can print with such precision, I'd say go for it. But I wouldn't want you to spend too much time and effort tweaking to get things just right. Especially since my gaffer taped lens cap works fine and the camera is just a cheap camera I got for $25 on ebay.

I ran into a temporary snag. I design (so far) in Sketchup, and Sketchup doesnt produce perfect circles. It produces a circle as a shape with 24 straight line facets.

I have a lens with outside diameter of 80.04 mm. I made a lens cap at that size and it didn't fit due to the straight line facets. So I added a mm, printed another and fits just fine.

I suspect that adding a mm to your dim of 58.59 will fit just fine. This is what it would look like. If this is ok and you still want one, let me know.

If so, Let me know if the 8 mm outside thickness (6mm inside depth + 2 mm plastic thickness) would work.

 

[Ronstar]

Of course, I know it's not all 'hand on' time. But it is a wait, and errors can occur mid-way through, I imagine.

The only errors I've had were stoppages due to nozzle temp being too low. So far this has only happened a few times - and was fixed by putting in a new nozzle and reprinting.

It's just a bit of a drag, like waiting for a glue-up to cure, or paint/finish coats to dry.



That's good to hear. It's just that so much of what I've seen on the web seems like a solution looking for a problem. I think this lens cap is kind of an example, there's probably far better/simpler ways to make one, I just don't see 3D printing as a very good solution here.

Also, did you post any of those in the repair/make forum? I'd like to take a look.

I'll take some pics and put something together

That's no knock on OP. I think it's an interesting attempt, and he has some free access to a 3D printer, so worth a try. Good learning experience and worth posting here.

-ERD50

 

[ShokWaveRider]

I ran into a temporary snag. I design (so far) in Sketchup, and Sketchup doesnt produce perfect circles. It produces a circle as a shape with 24 straight line facets.

I have a lens with outside diameter of 80.04 mm. I made a lens cap at that size and it didn't fit due to the straight line facets. So I added a mm, printed another and fits just fine.

I suspect that adding a mm to your dim of 58.59 will fit just fine. This is what it would look like. If this is ok and you still want one, let me know.

If so, Let me know if the 8 mm outside thickness (6mm inside depth + 2 mm plastic thickness) would work.

You can adjust that, 24 is the default. See Pics. Screenshots of Bottom right-Hand Corner of screen.

 

[easysurfer]

I ran into a temporary snag. I design (so far) in Sketchup, and Sketchup doesnt produce perfect circles. It produces a circle as a shape with 24 straight line facets.

I have a lens with outside diameter of 80.04 mm. I made a lens cap at that size and it didn't fit due to the straight line facets. So I added a mm, printed another and fits just fine.

I suspect that adding a mm to your dim of 58.59 will fit just fine. This is what it would look like. If this is ok and you still want one, let me know.

If so, Let me know if the 8 mm outside thickness (6mm inside depth + 2 mm plastic thickness) would work.

When you were printing out the 80.04 mm lens to test with your lens, did you measure afterwards to see that the measurements came out right at 80.04?

An issue with my prints from the library is they didn't turn out precise to my measurements. As a result, things turned out a guessing game on a moving target. So, I concluded with such varying results the only way to get things right was if I had my own printer and just try several print and fits.

I'm thinking, if your printing came out very precise to your measurements, then sure, I'd be happy to see if your try fits my lens. Otherwise, probably best to avoid the possible headache of shooting in the dark.

Yes, the 8 mm outside thickness (6mm inside depth + 2 mm plastic thickness) would work I think.

Thanks for all the effort you've put into this.

 

[Time2]

My son makes good use of a 3D printer they have at work. I have posted about a piece he 3D printed for a motorized desk to change the height. It fit inside a tube and had an internal triple thread. He did have to make 3 attempts, but it took one to to figure out there were three separate threads on the shaft. This was an unobtainable part and either 3D worked or the desk would be a one position desk. He has 3 D printed holders for specialized flasks at work, a device to wash several dozen sampling tubes at one time, angle blocks for setting the table saw blade and much more.



Triple thread below. Different color wire following each thread.

 

[CRLLS]

From the examples I've seen across the internet, these 3D printers really seem like a 'hobby' to me. Potentially fun and interesting, but I rarely see any practicality to it.

Most of the examples I see on the "maker" sorts of posts strike me as "I did this with a 3D printer, because I can". Again, as a hobby, that's fine. But to take hours to print out a little project box that can be made better in different ways? And as I understand it, these plastics aren't all that strong, and it takes a LOT of time or extra processes for a smooth finish. I just don't see it (other than for the 'fun'/challenge of it).

Personally, I'd be much more interested in some sort of cutting head (on Z axis) on an X-Y table. I think you could make more robust parts by cutting away material (wood, plastic, aluminum) much easier/faster than by adding melted material.

But I don't have much use for that either, and my workshop space is a bit limited, so I've not been too excited about that either.

-ERD50

I agree with most of what you said. Having limited space, it would be difficult to justify taking up the space with something that was only used a couple of times a year. I also think that most hobbyists use it to make things that have no intrinsic value other than educational. I wanted a 3-axis CNC machine for a few years now. I haven't pulled the trigger for the same space-reason. However, I did get a 3d printer for the educational purpose. It helps me exercise my brain, which I think is a good thing over the long term. I run it on a dresser in a spare bedroom without having to worry about bits of metal flying about.

I'm not trying to promote one type of machine over another. What works for me may not work for you. I would still like to play with a 2D laser printer. I'm not sure I have an application that I would need it for.

Not everything needs to have a smooth finish though. I recently had a need to adapt an automotive HVAC system's odd-shaped outlet port to my smaller, flexible hoses. Out came my 3d printer. A day later, after relearning the design software and trying some fitting issues, I had the 2 parts that I needed.

 

[Ronstar]

When you were printing out the 80.04 mm lens to test with your lens, did you measure afterwards to see that the measurements came out right at 80.04?

An issue with my prints from the library is they didn't turn out precise to my measurements. As a result, things turned out a guessing game on a moving target. So, I concluded with such varying results the only way to get things right was if I had my own printer and just try several print and fits.

I'm thinking, if your printing came out very precise to your measurements, then sure, I'd be happy to see if your try fits my lens. Otherwise, probably best to avoid the possible headache of shooting in the dark.

Yes, the 8 mm outside thickness (6mm inside depth + 2 mm plastic thickness) would work I think.

Thanks for all the effort you've put into this.

You're welcome, but it's not much of an effort - it's something I wanted to create for myself anyway. And I need to create a lens back cover for one of my detachable lens. This is quite similar.

The problem is Sketchup - my design software. It doesnt create true circles - just shapes having 24 facets somewhat close to a circle.

After doing some math on the 24 facets, it appears Sketchup creates a circle that is somewhat different than the diameter that I wanted. I think my 3dprinter is accurate. I think that sketchup creates a 24 facet shape that doesnt accurately match the designer's specifications.

I'm going to give this a whirl in Fusion 360 - which I downloaded a while ago but haven't used yet.

I don't want to send you a sketchup 24 faceted lens cap because I dont think it will fit. I've yet to find a true conversion formula where a specified Sketchup input produces an accurate circular diameter. I'll try Fusion 360 and see what it can do.

 

[ShokWaveRider]

I agree with most of what you said. Having limited space, it would be difficult to justify taking up the space with something that was only used a couple of times a year. I also think that most hobbyists use it to make things that have no intrinsic value other than educational. I wanted a 3-axis CNC machine for a few years now. I haven't pulled the trigger for the same space-reason. However, I did get a 3d printer for the educational purpose. It helps me exercise my brain, which I think is a good thing over the long term. I run it on a dresser in a spare bedroom without having to worry about bits of metal flying about.

I'm not trying to promote one type of machine over another. What works for me may not work for you. I would still like to play with a 2D laser printer. I'm not sure I have an application that I would need it for.

Not everything needs to have a smooth finish though. I recently had a need to adapt an automotive HVAC system's odd-shaped outlet port to my smaller, flexible hoses. Out came my 3d printer. A day later, after relearning the design software and trying some fitting issues, I had the 2 parts that I needed.

That is exactly what I use mine for. Making parts I cannot buy, or do not want to buy. I use Sketchup Pro for my designs as it is easy and close enough for the average 3D Printer. I used to use AutoCAD and MicroStation, but I have long forgot those.

 

[easysurfer]

You're welcome, but it's not much of an effort - it's something I wanted to create for myself anyway. And I need to create a lens back cover for one of my detachable lens. This is quite similar.

The problem is Sketchup - my design software. It doesnt create true circles - just shapes having 24 facets somewhat close to a circle.

After doing some math on the 24 facets, it appears Sketchup creates a circle that is somewhat different than the diameter that I wanted. I think my 3dprinter is accurate. I think that sketchup creates a 24 facet shape that doesnt accurately match the designer's specifications.

I'm going to give this a whirl in Fusion 360 - which I downloaded a while ago but haven't used yet.

I don't want to send you a sketchup 24 faceted lens cap because I dont think it will fit. I've yet to find a true conversion formula where a specified Sketchup input produces an accurate circular diameter. I'll try Fusion 360 and see what it can do.

I got an idea that I think will help both of us ensure the fitting is correct. How about if I send you my older camera (I no longer need as was going to give off Goodwill) that has the same size lens? That way you have a physical object to test your 3D printed lens cap against to see how well it fits.

I think this might be a better approach than going with measurements alone as there's still hit or miss with that.

Let me know what you think about this idea? Thanks.

 

[Time2]

Got my 3D printed lens cap from the library today.

Lens cap was about .5mm smaller than the design but even with that was way too loose for my camera (doesn't stay on at all).

Unfortunately, I think this may be a purely trial and error fitting process if I want to try again and get another cap printed.

I ask my son about this and he said, one point to remember, the computer design line is the center of the filament print line, So, if say the print filament is 0.05" wide, the actual printed object will have 0.025" added to the inside and outside of the object. Now that I look, you say it was 0.5mm smaller or about 0.020" smaller. Hmm, my guess was close.
Not sure why is was smaller than designed but was still to big.