Removing broken bolt?

Yea, I'm sure each tonneau manufacturer does it differently, even the same cover probably mounts differently depending on what pickup you have. I have the Fold-a-cover G4 elite, the clamp for the cover at the tailgate end has a through hole that the bolt freely passes through and screws into one of the existing bed bolt holes.
 
If welding isn't possible/convenient, I wonder if a torch and plumbing solder might work to get the nut adhered to the bolt temporarily. I've never tried it. The heat alone might help free up those threads.
No no no no! Flux and heat and solder will suck into any gap making it even harder to get out. Nut and welding is by far the way to go. Can also try and slowly break extractor down with a punch but, really, you want to weld a nut on.
 
Removing Bolts

Left hand drills are great.

Get it dead center then drill it as large as possible without damaging threads.

I normally use the end of a tap to create a point for drill
( to reduce wandering )and tap it with a small hammer.

Normally the bolt will spin out.

Recently I had a exhaust bolt broken out with 3/8 length exposed.

Tried vise grips. Surprised I couldn't get it to turn.

Found a set of sockets made by IRWN ( sold at Advanced Auto )

that were designed to remove broken bolts.

I selected best fit and tapped it on with a hammer.

It cut into the body of the bolt.

Used a socket wrench and it easily spun out.

Yea!!
 
I fixed mine with a 24 inch rubber trap strap over tonneau strut to rear bed tie down.
 
Life's too short. I'd take it to a shop and be done with it. After a lifetime of experience and a garage full of tools I've realized the DIY route is not always optimal.
 
We need pics!

Grabbed these from the install instructions, in the 1st photo bolt top left is used to hold the bracket, this is the one that snapped. The 2nd photo shows the bracket installed.
 

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So if that bolt is broken, is there anything holding the bracket on? I thought you might take a pic of the broken bolt so others could see it.
 
No no no no! Flux and heat and solder will suck into any gap making it even harder to get out.
I suppose that would be my luck. Solder >doesn't< get pulled into the gap if I've carefully sanded the copper pipe and fitting clean, faithfully applied flux, and heated everything well, but it will get pulled in like gangbusters if the gap is a rusty old steel nut and bolt.
 
So if that bolt is broken, is there anything holding the bracket on? I thought you might take a pic of the broken bolt so others could see it.

As I explained in a previous post I ended up drilling a pilot hole next to the broken ez-out and used a self tapping bolt to hold the bracket in place.
 
I suppose that would be my luck. Solder >doesn't< get pulled into the gap if I've carefully sanded the copper pipe and fitting clean, faithfully applied flux, and heated everything well, but it will get pulled in like gangbusters if the gap is a rusty old steel nut and bolt.

Gee, I thought that would only happened to me.
 
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