Retorque Wheels

I don't know. If I cared enough to use a torque wrench, I don't think I'd buy it at Harbor Freight. I like Harbor Freight. They have great prices on a lot of stuff I consider single use or non-critical. I would, and I did, get a torque wrench elsewhere. I forget what I paid, but it was under $100.

ETA:
I looked it up. I got this one. $65

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL1NS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you just need one for occasional use maybe get one from Harbor Freight. From the reviews I've seen they are just as accurate as much more expensive brands, at least when new. And probably more accurate than jumping on the breaker bar....:)

BTW, if there's not a store close by, order online. $20 + shipping gets you a new torque wrench.

https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=torque wrench

Yes, I've seen similar reviews for the HF wrench. For example,

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/choosing-torque-wrench/

Scroll down to the $20 HF wrench review -

"We also tested a couple of those ubiquitous $20 torque wrenches that can be found at Harbor Freight, Northern Tool, Tractor Supply and Walmart.

The stamped numbers are a bit hard to read, and the ratchet and breakaway action doesn’t match that of the premium wrenches, but what the hell do you want for $20?
Accuracy was darn good for the money. We tested several of these and never found one more than 4% out of whack. Some read within 2%.
FINAL THOUGHTS: Everyone should keep one of these in every toolbox or trailer and use it for the less sensitive stuff. Plus, it’s a great loaner. Think of it as a hammer that actually does some fairly accurate torqueing."
 
I should add that the torque spec doesn't have to be that accurate for lug nuts, so a cheaper torque wrench should be ok. E.g., on my Miata the spec is 66-86 ft lbs., so I shoot for the middle - 76.

Now, if I'm installing spark plugs in an aluminum block engine, I care a lot more about the wrench being very accurate. [edit: but that requires a different wrench anyway with a lower torque range.]
 
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I don't know. If I cared enough to use a torque wrench, I don't think I'd buy it at Harbor Freight. I like Harbor Freight. They have great prices on a lot of stuff I consider single use or non-critical. I would, and I did, get a torque wrench elsewhere. I forget what I paid, but it was under $100.

ETA:
I looked it up. I got this one. $65

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL1NS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL0RU is a more comparable model to the Harbor Freight one. 10-150 ft-lbs, for $37.72. 20-150 for the HF one. Your more expensive Tekton is 20-250 and 25". All should be fine to lug nuts on my car.

As others said, testing showed that the HF one is just as accurate as the Tekton. I had pretty much decided on that until I saw a video by a customer at the HF site. He was trying to set it to 75, and couldn't tell if the 70 or 80 setting was right. He was convinced it was 70, went +5, then bumped it to the next 10, +5. Apparently the scale is hard to read as he proved, while the looks a lot clearer, and has more contrast to see. That's kind of got my convinced to go with the $37 Tekton. Blow That Dough, right? Or maybe I'll go to HF in town tomorrow and see for myself how it is to dial in and read, though I don't know how they are packaged.
 
Went with the $37 Tekton. I saw a few reviews complaining about being able to read the HF one and that kind of thing gets to me too. Plus if I walked into the store I'd probably buy other crap I don't need so it wouldn't turn out any cheaper. Appreciate the comments and ideas. Sorry to the OP for the threadjack but I think you got plenty of answers before that. If not, post again.
 
:LOL:



Interesting link. I didn't know that model came from Harbor Freight. I have one that looks just like it (acquired it with a car trade many years ago). I usually consider Harbor Freight stuff as "junk (at best)" but that torque wrench works as well as my more expensive ones. And it is just as accurate. Still learning new things all the time.
 
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:LOL:

I usually consider Harbor Freight stuff as "junk (at best)" but that torque wrench works as well as my more expensive ones.

I have several power tools from Harbor Freight; all were bought for a specific one-off task and I've kept them because, after all, they still work and occasionally I still find a use for them. But I'm not building fine furniture. For something like that I'd invest in much better quality with tighter tolerances.
 
I have several power tools from Harbor Freight; all were bought for a specific one-off task and I've kept them because, after all, they still work and occasionally I still find a use for them. But I'm not building fine furniture. For something like that I'd invest in much better quality with tighter tolerances.
Harbor Freight has gotten in the good, better, best game and their upper grades are quite competitive with American designed, Chinese made brands we think of as quality tools. But like you, I've got a bunch of their cheap stuff that did the job it was purchased for and still works. These were often bought for less than the price of a rental of a similar tool.
 
'Fessing up here. After reading the reviews for the Harbor Freight cheapy 1/2" torque wrench I convinced myself to blow $20. Before heading down there I gave one last look through the pile of tools and there was the missing wrench. Set the torque to 90# and went around the wheels and was pleased to have all the lugnuts move about the same minimal distance. I'll leave the wrench here as expected. Consistency is a good thing.
 
I have several power tools from Harbor Freight; all were bought for a specific one-off task and I've kept them because, after all, they still work and occasionally I still find a use for them. But I'm not building fine furniture. For something like that I'd invest in much better quality with tighter tolerances.
These days I usually just pay more and go for the brand name stuff just because that's proven to be best for me. Even then I'm pretty selective. In my younger days, I've actually hurt myself a few times with some cheaper tools due to poor tolerances (not fitting well) and/or just flat breaking. In my case I worked on a lot of cars and trucks for many years so it seemed to make sense in my situation. (YMMV) In full disclosure, I have broken some of the best quality hand tools you can buy too, only far, far, less often.

Besides the torque wrench mentioned earlier, I do have a "no name" power hand grinder that I bought from HF ~10 years ago and I still use it for rough cuts to this day....
 
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Walmart says same thing, to come back for re-torque. Nobody including me ever do, I’m sure it’s a Legal CYA thing by retailers.
 
Walmart says same thing, to come back for re-torque. Nobody including me ever do, I’m sure it’s a Legal CYA thing by retailers.

I'm sure our local Walmart would make me wait 4 hours for the retorque like they did for a set of tires once. They said "first come, first served" but I took the car in when they opened. Apparently they had friends/relatives they slipped in before me. Not again but I'm changing the subject, so YMMV.
 
I had a Sears Craftsman TW for that range for about 40 years and it finally gave up the ghost. I’ve had loose, missing and too tight lug nuts and bolts (bolts in BMW, Mini, Porsche) so I always check, usually when I get home. And I also rotate my own tires on cars you can (Porsche & some BMWS staggered), and bought my own lift 13 years ago, for that and other projects. Paid for itself many times over both in cost and safety. After the TW died, I was doing some engine work and ran down to HF and they were actually out of their TW of that range. So I bought a digital Torque adapter that works on any combination of ratchet or breaker bar, over a very wide range and allows you to measure torque in places where a TW wouldn’t fit. Checked it against different range TWs I own and it is spot on.
 
Retorque after driving home from the work.
Retorque after 200 miles.
Once per year after that.

Once per year? Don't you rotate tires?

I check them after 100 kms or so. Then leave them alone until I swap tires which is twice a year as I go from from winter to summer tires.
 
It is probably CYA regarding some shops. It seems there is a rash of wheels coming off cars. One factor is customization with people subsequently using the wrong kind of lug for their custom wheel. Another is just bad work in torquing the wheels.

One of my guilty pleasures is reading the "IdiotsInCars" reddit. This morning we have another post of a wheel coming off. It had a good ending, but not all do. Ever wonder if you'd have time to react? Check this out and play the video: https://www.reddit.com/r/IdiotsInCars/comments/mqa2qq/not_the_beat_drop_that_i_wanted/
 
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