grasshopper
Thinks s/he gets paid by the post
- Joined
- Oct 9, 2010
- Messages
- 2,477
Guys, you are making me nervous about my 22 YO a/c unit in S Arizona 102-105 all last week.
Moen cartridges are guaranteed for life. They will send you a new one free.
Same with some other faucet brands.
It helps to take and save a few photos of the receipt and box for years later, but they have never asked me for them.
Nice thing is, the official parts fit well.
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SOOO, unplugged the machine and went back to the couch for 10 minutes.. when I got up to get some more beverage. plugged it back in and it was 'fixed'....
Enjoyed the beverage...
I see the problem as making something electronic when mechanical is fine. Just let me turn the dial to 3 minutes on my microwave, don't put in a board that costs $9 and them when it goes bad charge me $89 to buy it.
Same on a washer, good old mechanical timers worker great. They only time I think I got a good price on an elctronic board was for an excercise bike that my wife picked up because someone used the display as a handle and broke the PCB, I got a new one for $26 and it wasn't just a simple PCB. I have a treadmill ( another freebe the wife picked up) it would not start. I troubleshot it a part level and found a bad part, I replaced it and now it runs... FULL SPEED! So, more troubleshooting. I can buy the board, but it's $130.
Mechanical is fine and sometimes better. My air cleaner went through a period where it would turn on and change settings by itself. It has touch switches. I want a snap action switch. ....
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I'd like to install a conventional switch on my cell phone and laptop (when I get a laptop with a working battery) that disconnects the battery. I'm afraid I'll do something to make it explode though. I wish they would come that way.
Have to post this as it is a 'repair' as far as DW knows...
Our washer machine started to throw out an error code.. there was an error between the control panel and the water pump...
Looked it up and saw on the internet what I was supposed to do... take off front panel, look at wire... if wire is OK then probably the pump is bad etc. etc...
SOOO, unplugged the machine and went back to the couch for 10 minutes.. when I got up to get some more beverage. plugged it back in and it was 'fixed'....
Enjoyed the beverage...
My first replacement of a CMOS battery. I'm back on my desktop. I bet there's some benefit to hardwiring the battery holder to a switch on the computer case so I can easily cut power to CMOS and maybe reboot it. I won't bother until I'm more convinced of a benefit.
Maybe for security. With a dead battery it just gave a continuous beep and wouldn't boot up. I could hide a dip switch and nobody would think of looking for one.
OH! That's a good reminder, my computer is 9 years old. I just install Windows 10 and hoping for many more years.
Isn't 10 year CMOS battery replacement suggested?
Hope your luck holds out. A power cycle might clear the error, but I bet that when it goes through a wash cycle, it will sense the pump problem and throw up the error again.
It's possible it was a one-time fault, but I sure would not bet on it.
-ERD50
Has been working fine since I reset it... maybe 5 to 10 loads...
the cord broke off an flew across the room!
One might conclude that the problem was repeated friction against a sharp corner, but that would not be accurate in this case. I could take any section of the cord and pull it gently, and it would break. Sewing thread would be stronger. I'm tellin' ya... the cord was somehow programmed to disintegrate, probably a UV activated process.You probably weren't pulling the cord straight down and it was rubbing against an edge that wasn't rounded. Filing the red and black plastic edges might help.
One might conclude that the problem was repeated friction against a sharp corner, but that would not be accurate in this case. I could take any section of the cord and pull it gently, and it would break. Sewing thread would be stronger. I'm tellin' ya... the cord was somehow programmed to disintegrate, probably a UV activated process.
One might conclude that the problem was repeated friction against a sharp corner, but that would not be accurate in this case. I could take any section of the cord and pull it gently, and it would break. Sewing thread would be stronger. I'm tellin' ya... the cord was somehow programmed to disintegrate, probably a UV activated process.
I fixed my refrigerator that was not cooling in the bottom compartment. After searching on YouTube, I found one symptom that matched my situation: there was significant frost built up on the rear inside of the freezer.
The YT video explained that there is a heater element in the freezer that periodically kicks in and defrosts the evaporator coil. If it does not turn on, then frost builds up on coil and can block the flow of cool air to the bottom compartment. (Some of you may remember your mother having to manually defrost the frig each month when you were young).
After testing the heater element with an ohm meter, I found that it was an open circuit. Unfortunately my fridge is pretty old and parts are no longer available for it. However I found a place on Ebay that tears apart appliances and sells the parts. I found an element that had about the right size and connector, ordered it for $50, installed it and it works great!