Dryer malfunction

[REWahoo]

OK you appliance gurus out there, help me diagnose a problem with our Maytag electric clothes dryer.

The dryer heats and dries OK, but will not shut off automatically. In automatic mode, the dial moves as the clothes dry, but once it gets to "cool down" cycle the heating element shuts off but the timer/dial stops moving and the dryer continues to run. Same when in manual (timer) mode - it dries fine, shuts off the heating element but continues to run until manually turned off.

I've checked to be sure the vent is clear of lint. The airflow coming out of the vent is very strong and the drying time seems normal.

Ideas?

 

[WanderALot]

REWahoo,

Have you tried asking on Appliance Blog? Here a thread with a similar problem:

Maytag Dryer won't stop running. - Appliance Blog Forums

 

[REWahoo]

REWahoo,

Have you tried asking on Appliance Blog? Here a thread with a similar problem:

Maytag Dryer won't stop running. - Appliance Blog Forums

Thanks, I've not checked that site but have looked at several others. What I've found is the problem that's discussed on the thread you linked - the dryer keeps running and heating probably due to a clogged vent. Not the problem I have.

I did pose the question to RepairClinic.com but haven't gotten a response yet.

 

[Sam]

Speculation on my part: Sounds like the moisture sensor is working properly, but the temperature sensor is not.

Howstuffworks "How Clothes Dryers Work"

 

[Nords]

OK you appliance gurus out there, help me diagnose a problem with our Maytag electric clothes dryer.
The dryer heats and dries OK, but will not shut off automatically. In automatic mode, the dial moves as the clothes dry, but once it gets to "cool down" cycle the heating element shuts off but the timer/dial stops moving and the dryer continues to run. Same when in manual (timer) mode - it dries fine, shuts off the heating element but continues to run until manually turned off.

If I understand the symptoms correctly, it sounds like the timer knob is getting stuck near the end of its cycle.

First, how old is this machine? If it's more than five years old then you may be able to find a good used dryer on Craigslist for a couple hundred bucks. (Most of them are sold because they don't match the renovated decor, if you can believe that.) That gives you plenty of time to futz around with the old one, and fix it if you want to, without your spouse standing behind you holding an armload of wet clothes and offering helpful suggestions. Once you fix it you can decide which one to sell.

Of course this tactic may backfire on you if she decides that it's time to buy a brand-new high-end matched-set frontloader combo.

Dryer timer switches are also about $75-$100 at appliance parts stores. This is the preferred alternative to cleaning because if you had to clean it once then you'll probably have to clean it again in a few years. If you're going to spend that much on a timer switch instead of a used Craigslist dryer then it's usually to avoid spousal coercion into a four-figure retail upgrade.

If you do decide to try to fix the timer switch, it may be full of [-]peanut butter[/-] accumulated dust, lint, & corrosion. (And in your neck of the woods, perhaps a few heat-seeking chiggers.) After soaking yourself in chigger repellant (plus injecting the appropriate amounts of scorpion & rattlesnake anti-venins) you could pull the module out of the control panel. Shake it to see if there are any broken parts rattling inside. (And to disorient any diehard chiggers.) If it seems to still be in one piece (the switch, not the chigger) then spray electrical-contact cleaner through its casing (or take the casing off), and finish the cleaning by [-]beating the crap out of it[/-] vigorously rotating it several times through its entire cycle. It'll need some time to dry out before you re-energize it. (Still talking about the switch here, not the chigger.) Hopefully there won't be any remaining critter parts fouling the mechanism and the dryer will work fine again... but as a marriage veteran you know it's only a matter of time before she notices those Kenmore ads.

My favorite site is the Samurai Appliance Repair Man.

 

[W2R]

If I understand the symptoms correctly, it sounds like the timer knob is getting stuck near the end of its cycle.

Listen to Nords. He appears to know what he is talking about, here.

First, how old is this machine? If it's more than five years old then you may be able to find a good used dryer on Craigslist for a couple hundred bucks. (Most of them are sold because they don't match the renovated decor, if you can believe that.) That gives you plenty of time to futz around with the old one, and fix it if you want to, without your spouse standing behind you holding an armload of wet clothes and offering helpful suggestions. Once you fix it you can decide which one to sell.

Of course this tactic may backfire on you if she decides that it's time to buy a brand-new high-end matched-set frontloader combo.

Oh, he DEFINITELY know what he is talking about!!

 

[REWahoo]

First, how old is this machine?

It's 6 years old - which I consider to be brand-spankin-new! But yeah, the Craigslist option may be way to go.

Of course this tactic may backfire on you if she decides that it's time to buy a brand-new high-end matched-set frontloader combo.

What!? Have you two been swapping emails? She likes the cobalt blue set.

If I understand the symptoms correctly, it sounds like the timer knob is getting stuck near the end of its cycle.

It is doing just that, but I'm suspicious it's more than a mechanical malfunction since in both the two automatic modes and the manual timer mode, the knob stops moving only after the heating element cuts off. Makes me think the problem may be beyond the timer switch.

But, it may be worth a shot to remove it and see if it can be de[-]chiggered[/-]bugged using the subtle and delicate adjustments you described.

 

[Janet H]

The dryer heats and dries OK, but will not shut off automatically. .....Ideas?

Brilliant! This is a fabulous ruse to get out of doing the laundry. "... um no I don't do laundry anymore, my dryer is [-]possessed[/-] on the fritz"

Not only does it elicit pity for the impending repair/replace bills but it totally excuses a somewhat rumpled appearance (not that I'm saying you are rumpled).....

I'm filing this one away for future use

 

[REWahoo]

Brilliant! This is a fabulous ruse to get out of doing the laundry. "... um no I don't do laundry anymore, my dryer is [-]possessed[/-] on the fritz"

I'm filing this one away for future use

Can I get a copyright on an excuse?

... it totally excuses a somewhat rumpled appearance (not that I'm saying you are rumpled).....

Looks like Nords isn't the only one who's been in contact with my DW...

 

[Khan]

Do you really need a dryer?

 

[ronin]

The timer is turned on by either the moisture sensor on auto or the thermo (it's been over 20 yrs since I troubleshot one of these bad boys). Look at the wiring schematic and it should be pretty easy to see what closes to power up the timer. If you have a voltmeter, hook it up to the timer and see what happens when you get to the trouble spot in the timer. If you have juice, it's a bad timer. Otherwise I'd use a test light screwdriver (Sear's special to check for voltage) or my voltmeter and work my way back according to the schematic to see where the voltage drops. Make sure your polarity is correct at the outlet.

Oh yeah, I air dry. An advantage to our 95 degree So Cal climate. But we do have a 25 yr old Maytag for my wife. Works like a champ. Haven't had to tear into it yet.

 

[REWahoo]

Thanks for the troubleshooting info.

Oh yeah, I air dry. An advantage to our 95 degree So Cal climate.

Gotcha covered on the 95+ temps. Unfortunately, air drying in this country can be hazardous to your health. Fire ants love damp laundry, plus chiggers and scorpions are apparently attracted to the smell of clothespins.

 

[TromboneAl]

timer/dial stops moving and the dryer continues to run.

Considering the possibility that it is a mechanical thing...

1. Does the dial always stop in the same place?

2. If you physically move the timer dial, can you feel any change in resistance as you pass that point?

3. Can you open it up so as to look at the gears to see if there's a mouse's body there, for example (as I found in a stove once)?

4. Have you tried percussive maintenance?

 

[REWahoo]

Considering the possibility that it is a mechanical thing...

1. Does the dial always stop in the same place?

Yes

2. If you physically move the timer dial, can you feel any change in resistance as you pass that point?

No, can't feel anything when I move across that point.

3. Can you open it up so as to look at the gears to see if there's a mouse's body there, for example (as I found in a stove once)?

I'm planning on a chigger/fire ant/scorpion/mouse search tomorrow.

4. Have you tried percussive maintenance?

Soon.

 

[ERD50]

I'd be thinking the timer itself also. The tumbler shut-off switch is stuck closed. That would be separate contacts from the heater switch, so it makes sense that they could fail independently.

And don't discount the 'percussive maintenance' approach. It can be particularly effective on stuck switch contacts in a dirty environment.


Funny timing. My 20 YO Maytag dryer stopped tumbling Saturday.

Took it apart, belt was broke, found the belt online for $20, arrived today (!)

While I had it apart, I noticed the bushing wear plates (pieces of cork and a teflon sheet) were ready to go. Ordered at the same time, another $20.

Then $17 for a rivet gun (can't believe I got along this long w/o one).

Will it last another 20 years? I replaced the heater element 5 years ago.

Saves me the trouble of locating and moving a new/used one. Pretty easy to work on these things.

Washer is 20 YO too. Never did a thing to that. But if that died, I'd look into the front-load ones that use less water and spin the clothes drier. I question if they are worth the extra $ (I'm sure there is a thread on it in here), but it seem that it could be.

I don't understand the fascination with 'new' dryers? Ours is tucked away behind bi-fold doors. I'd be as motivated to replace a working unit as I am to replace all the unclogged P-Traps under the sinks in our house.

Call me old fashioned.

-ERD50

 

[Sarah in SC]

14 yr old washer dryer set here.
DH has replaced the timer with good result.
We are now having drum problems where it has separated from the front wall, sometimes entangling clothes and pinching them in the space (no more clothing with loose strings or straps allowed now!).
I wonder if this is the bushing wear plates that ERD50 mentioned? How did you diagnose that was your problem?
We did do some JB Weld on the washer drum about 6 yrs ago that is holding up pretty well.
Sarah

 

[REWahoo]

Do you really need a dryer?

DW seems to think it is important.

 

[REWahoo]

Dryer repair update.

Repair attempt #1: Removed timer. No varmints found, but contacts were somewhat corroded. Cleaned contacts and reinstalled timer. Result - No change.

Repair attempt #2: Removed timer. Applied gentle percussive maintenance and reinstalled timer. Result - totally inoperative.

Repair attempt #3: Removed timer. Applied vigorous percussive maintenance.

Result - great stress relief.

Repair attempt #4: Ordered new timer.

 

[73ss454]

#5: get DW the Cobalt Blue machines.

 

[Telly]

Harvest Gold, Avacado, and Coppertone are nice colors too!

 

[ERD50]

14 yr old washer dryer set here.
DH has replaced the timer with good result.
We are now having drum problems where it has separated from the front wall, sometimes entangling clothes and pinching them in the space (no more clothing with loose strings or straps allowed now!).
I wonder if this is the bushing wear plates that ERD50 mentioned? How did you diagnose that was your problem?
We did do some JB Weld on the washer drum about 6 yrs ago that is holding up pretty well.
Sarah

On my Maytag dryer, the drum has rollers in the back to support it and let it roll, the front just rests on these cork strips with teflon (nylon?) slip sheets on them.

I just noticed they were about ready to fall apart when I inspected everything else after the drive belt broke, no symptoms at the time. I understand that when they go, the thing makes a horrendous noise.

I suspect that your problem is related to the felt seals at the front and back rim of the drum.

Check this:

http://tinyurl.com/2w3bp5

http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/36026.gif

-ERD50

 

[Telly]

14 yr old washer dryer set here.
DH has replaced the timer with good result.
We are now having drum problems where it has separated from the front wall, sometimes entangling clothes and pinching them in the space (no more clothing with loose strings or straps allowed now!).
I wonder if this is the bushing wear plates that ERD50 mentioned? How did you diagnose that was your problem?
We did do some JB Weld on the washer drum about 6 yrs ago that is holding up pretty well.
Sarah

If the rear rim of the drum is supported by rubber rollers, the rollers may be well-worn, too.

ERD50 posted in the time I was typing...

All the Whirlpool and Kenmore made by Whirlpool dryers I have worked on (my favorite brands) had a fabric seal on the rear edge of the drum, but none on the front. With long long use, the rear fabric seal slowly wears away, and lint gets into the cabinet. Thin stuff may also get caught back there. I've pulled the drums out, scraped off the old seal, and replaced with a seal kit (contains high-temp adhesive). I've usually replaced the rubber rollers while I have the drum out, but I can't say I've seen a badly worn set if rollers from a Whirlpool yet. The rollers actually look more like tires than rollers.

 

[ERD50]

Repair attempt #2: Removed timer. Applied gentle percussive maintenance and reinstalled timer. Result - totally inoperative.

Repair attempt #3: Removed timer. Applied vigorous percussive maintenance.

Result - great stress relief.

Oh yeah, we forgot to mention the downside of 'percussive repair' - ooops!

Ahh, but there is that stress relief factor...

Repair attempt #4: Ordered new timer.

What did a new timer cost you? I see mine at $128! Is there a junk yard of old dryers, or a market in used timers?

-ERD50

 

[REWahoo]

What did a new timer cost you? I see mine at $128!
-ERD50

$66 shipped (RepairClinic.com).

Is there a junk yard of old dryers, or a market in used timers?
-ERD50

Don't think there would be much of a market for my "used" timer. And I'm not inclined to try a used one since it seems timers, belts and heating elements are common failure items on electric dryers.

 

[CuppaJoe]

Does this mean there could be a limit to how many times dryer sheets can be re-used?