Oil Changes

[aja8888]

I've never changed brake fluid as a normal routine. If I do a complete bake job (pads, rotors, bleeding), I will pump through enough new fluid to essentially "change" the old fluid out. I have a power bleeder also so it's pretty simple.

As far as corrosion goes, the only real item that can corrode and cause a leak is the piston bore in the brake caliper (or the bore in the wheel cylinder for those who still have drum brakes). Only one time in my life have I seen enough corrosion to warrant a bore cleanup with a hone, which was done to remove/clean up slight "pitting" in the bore from water corrosion. That was in my 1995 Chev. PU at around 200,000 miles. I was doing a complete brake service and decided to rebuild the calipers ($4 in pairs for new seals per caliper).

It's pretty easy to change brake fluid but the risk of having a failure (caliper leak) is very low in my opinion. But for those who wish to reduce as much risk as humanly possible, go ahead and spend the money and have it done. My recommendation is to have it done at "brake job" time rather than at a set time or miles interval.

 

[Gumby]

I replace my brake fluid every 3 years. I still have enough ATE Racing Blue left to alternate yellow and blue so it is easy to know when I'm done. The hardest part is getting the young wife to come out and pump the brake pedal.

 

[btdt22]

Engine damage because of oil issues are really not going to kill any car built in the last 10 years. You will have computer/electronic issues that make owning the car too expensive...not from oil issues. In our Infiniti, I change it every 5K and in our Highlander, I change it every 10K...as recommended by the manufacturer.

I concur. Lubricity issues with name brand oil products have become very rare. I always use synthetics in differentials, transmissions, and transfer cases, but use 'dino' oils in the engine given the one year factory oil change mandate. I no longer self-change my own oil, but always discard the local 'jiffy lube' 3000 mile change sticker they put inside my windshield, and replace it with the mileage change recommended in my owners manual

 

[ERD50]

I think it's like many things in life...the opinions are wide and varied. So...I would just do what you think is right for you. I personally don't see the point in changing the fluid, but that doesn't necessarily make me right...but I am comfortable in my decision. ...

Based on this, and other feedback I've gotten, I think I'll just make sure that a brake job includes a flushing, unless the manual states otherwise. We don't do a lot of highway miles, so brake jobs are not so far apart as some might be.

Transmissions, etc. - Again, I follow the manual. If they say it is a 'lifetime' lubricant, good enough for me. But if I were to put a lot of miles on a vehicle, and wanted to keep it a long time, I might have it changed halfway into my expected ownership. I've taken that approach with things like tires and batteries - if I only expect to keep the car a few more years, but I know those won't make it to the end, might as well replace them now, rather than take a chance trying to squeak out another year on them.

-ERD50

 

[Car-Guy]

As far as corrosion goes, the only real item that can corrode and cause a leak is the piston bore in the brake caliper (or the bore in the wheel cylinder for those who still have drum brakes). Only one time in my life have I seen enough corrosion to warrant a bore cleanup with a hone, which was done to remove/clean up slight "pitting" in the bore from water corrosion.

Not 100% accurate. (There are always exceptions I guess) I have replaced sections of metal brake lines several times over the years due to corrosion leaks. Admittedly this happened on vehicles that were at least 20 years old, but it can and does happen. Most brake leaks I have had to deal with have been the rubber seals on drum brake wheel cylinders.

Maybe I've been lucky but I can't recall having leak problems with any disk brakes. (but I'm sure it happens) Also, I don't flush and replace brake fluid unless I'm doing a complete or major brake system overhaul. (Typically on really old cars)

 

[aja8888]

Not 100% accurate. (There are always exceptions I guess) I have replaced sections of metal brake lines several times over the years due to corrosion leaks. Admittedly this happened on vehicles that were at least 20 years old, but it can and does happen. Most brake leaks I have had to deal with have been the rubber seals on drum brake wheel cylinders.

Maybe I've been lucky but I can't recall having leak problems with any disk brakes. (but I'm sure it happens) Also, I don't flush and replace brake fluid unless I'm doing a complete or major brake system overhaul. (Typically on really old cars)

I forgot about corrosion leaks on old steel brake lines. I haven't seen that problem since I left the snow/salt climates 30 years ago. And from my recollection, the corrosion was from the outside of the line being so rusty (but I could be mistaken here).

 

[Car-Guy]

I forgot about corrosion leaks on old steel brake lines. I haven't seen that problem since I left the snow/salt climates 30 years ago. And from my recollection, the corrosion was from the outside of the line being so rusty (but I could be mistaken here).

The ones I replaced were caked in road "crud" and usually attached or routed at points on the frame that allowed this "crud" to accumulate. No doubt road salt would contribute.

 

[SteveNU]

I just follow the manufacturers recommendations. My old VW Jetta TDI that I gave to my son has over 340k miles on it and I have always changed the oil at 10000 mile intervals.

As far as the brake system, I've never changed the brake fluid. When I do the brakes I just purge the lines at the wheels until it is clear and refill the reservoir as needed. So a little bleed and feed is good enough for me. I have replaced a brake line on my truck because it looked pretty bad. But the truck is 12 years old and everytime I crawl under it I cringe at the rust. Connecticut winters will do that to a vehicle.

Transmission fluid I generally change by just draining the sump and refilling it. The only time I had the dealer do a recommended flush of the tranny I ended up needing a new transmission at 40k miles. It was still under warranty thankfully!

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[Mr._Graybeard]

Regarding brake fluid -- A number of years ago I found a nice little Acura Integra for my MiL. It was about five years old but had low miles. I took the car out for a test spin after we brought it home and braked hard a few times. The brake pedal started getting mushy after the third or fourth hard stop -- brake fade caused by moisture in the fluid boiling off. I'd hate to be driving in the mountains with the brake system in that condition. Needless to say, I flushed the system with fresh fluid and fade was never a problem again.

 

[Tom52]

I Mobil1 synthetic in both the Caddy and Silverado truck. I think it is important to use a corresponding good oil filter at the same time so I usually go with K&N. Since Mobil1 is pricey I look for sales, usually Walmart has good prices to buy it in 4 qt. jugs. Caddy requires 7.5 quarts and the truck is 6 quarts so I usually go at least 9,000 miles between changes. I also service the trans and filter about every 40,000 miles and flush the radiator every 4 years or so.

I have never flushed brake fluid on any car ever owned and I have never known anyone else who has ever done it.

 

[GravitySucks]

Kendall synthetic in the Camry whenever the indicator comes on or 10,000 miles.
Semi synthetic every 5,000 miles in the Scion Tc.
RV is regular oil at 5,000 miles.
Regular oil once a year in the Ranchero, about a 1,000 miles.

Amazing how the different driving conditions force the change oil light to come on. Cross country high temperature trip had the maintenance light come on after 3,100 miles last summer.

I no longer change the oil on the cars myself as its only about $2.00 more to have it done. Sometimes a good coupon cuts it to less than self serve. I do the Ranchero and RV myself as its easy to slide under them and the oil change shops don't stock the filters.

 

[Danmar]

i generally change the oil in my cars every year. Never put more than 10k miles on any of them. In fact the Arizona convertible only gets about 3k miles a year.

 

[Hermit]

Related, but a little to the side - what about changing brake fluid?

Some car manuals seem to be silent on this, I've seen others recc every 3 years (flush and change). My Uncle was an airline mechanic, he insisted on doing it, and I've heard that from other respected mechanics. Seems the recc is based on time, not miles - the brake fluid absorbs moisture, that can lead to corrosion. As your brakes get hot, the water can turn to steam, which is compressible, making your brakes near useless. The whole principle of hydraulic brakes is that fluids are not compressible, add in a compressible gas like steam, and your brake pedal just mushes down to the floor.

I think I've forgotten to ask if my shop does a brake fluid flush as part of a brake pad/rotor change. I hope so. Maybe some car manuals feel that is good enough?

Engines can be rebuilt, a human body rebuild due to brake failure can be a lot tougher.

-ERD50

My dealer is really on top of this stuff. According to them, I need to change all the lubricants and fluids 4 or 5 times more often than the manufacturer recommends! They have told me it is because I live in Colorado and the climate is hard on cars! (I may be exaggerating on the frequency, but not by much.)

 

[pb4uski]

....And overwhelmingly, I see a trend with these cars..."It just happens on modified, beaten on, and abused cars". Well, duh.

I had a 2008 Legacy GT with the turbo for 2012 to 2015.... great, fun car... totally stock, never abused and never had a problem.

 

[ERD50]

My dealer is really on top of this stuff. According to them, I need to change all the lubricants and fluids 4 or 5 times more often than the manufacturer recommends! They have told me it is because I live in Colorado and the climate is hard on cars! (I may be exaggerating on the frequency, but not by much.)

Including muffler bearing rotations?

-ERD50

 

[HF63]

A lot great information regarding oil changes but how many times do you guys actually change the PCV or positive crankcase ventilation. In some cars the like my CRV it only costs like 13 dollars for part but compared to my Volvo's the whole set up runs close to 200 just for parts. When this item gets clogged it can raise the internal pressure of the engine which leads to many oil leaks by the seals.

 

[pb4uski]

My dealer is really on top of this stuff. According to them, I need to change all the lubricants and fluids 4 or 5 times more often than the manufacturer recommends! They have told me it is because I live in Colorado and the climate is hard on cars! (I may be exaggerating on the frequency, but not by much.)

I had my dealer in Vermont do the same thing.... they recommended using the severe service schedule because of the terrain... I pointed out the them that I was "skeptical" given that it was in their interest for me to buy more oil changes, etc from them... I even called the manufacturer and they were useless... would not answer one way or the other.

I use the regular service manufacturer recommended intervals... 6,000 miles in the case of my new car (with synthetic oil).

 

[Hillbilly]

Change oil using synthetic every 10,000 miles or one year, which ever comes first

Toyota dealer said every 10,000 miles using synthetic, no time period

I don't mix oils (syn v. non-syn) or brands

 

[kcowan]

Change oil using synthetic every 10,000 miles or one year, which ever comes first

Toyota dealer said every 10,000 miles using synthetic, no time period

I don't mix oils (syn v. non-syn) or brands

i generally change the oil in my cars every year. Never put more than 10k miles on any of them. In fact the Arizona convertible only gets about 3k miles a year.

So with synthetic oil, would it seem right to change the oil every 3 years. It sits for 9 months in the Arizona heat without turning a wheel?

 

[check6]

So with synthetic oil, would it seem right to change the oil every 3 years. It sits for 9 months in the Arizona heat without turning a wheel?

That might be a little long. Our MB sits about 7 months in AZ. We change it every 1.5 yrs or so. The brake fluid is to be flushed every two years but will let it go 4 years. My Toyota truck though had not be flushed in 15 yrs before I sold it.

My airplane on the other hand is on its third oil change in 50 hours due to sitting and concern about moisture. It's located in a northern state.

 

[Car-Guy]

Including muffler bearing rotations?

-ERD50

 

[jazz4cash]

A lot great information regarding oil changes but how many times do you guys actually change the PCV or positive crankcase ventilation. In some cars the like my CRV it only costs like 13 dollars for part but compared to my Volvo's the whole set up runs close to 200 just for parts. When this item gets clogged it can raise the internal pressure of the engine which leads to many oil leaks by the seals.

I bet I've changed out about 100 PCV valves in my lifetime, but I've never seen a clogged one on any car that wasn't abused ( and had much bigger issues). Thing is you can check them and if they rattle, they're OK ( but I change em anyway cause they cost about 2 bucks. )


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[Sunset]

.....
Toyota dealer said every 10,000 miles using synthetic, no time period
....

Same here, for a 2015 Toyota van, every 10K in miles with synthetic

I otherwise change the oil in the other car every 5K or at least once per year, even if it's only got 2K miles.

 

[Fedup]

My husband said he changes oil on our car every 10k miles. But I drive so gingerly that he said he could leave it longer. He never changed brake fluid, but do top it off occasionally.
He used to be in the motor club in college.

 

[Rich]

I have a theory… Having read lots (and lots) of posts about what kind of oil/when to change etc. I’ve come to the unsupported conclusion that everyone writing about whatever system they use, will be just fine. My logic? Those are the very people that are paying attention to their vehicle’s maintenance needs. Oil changes 3,000/5,000/10,000 miles? Don’t matter. You’re changing the oil, that matters!


For the record my wife and I run four cars, two in MA and two in AZ. Split our year between the two states. Cars oil and filters get changed immediately prior to our leaving whichever state we are in, thus we change by time (six months) not by mileage. Mileage varies from around 3,000 to 5,000 miles per auto. Mobil 1 all around. We keep our cars a long time:


2000 Lexus 300RX
2001 Rav-4
2009 Jeep Wrangler
2011 Jeep Wrangler


Rich