Surfing Thread

[TromboneAl]

P.S. I don't think I would have remembered which way the wind was going without that clear memory of my money blowing away.

 

[JB]

Re: blowing money
Baldwin Beach is a popular place for long strolls, dog walks, body surfing, boogie boarding, pot smoking, and drinking. A few years ago we were walking the dog past a partying crowd that hangs out at the entrance. I looked down and saw a dollar bill blowing across the sand and went to pick it up. I was having a difficult time and ended up chasing that dollar downwind. When I finally caught up to it a young man was reeling me in with a fishing rod. He got me and we both had a good laugh.


The small waves are good for something. Check out this video.

 

[Nords]

The small waves are good for something. Check out this video.

Now there's a guy with way too much time on his paws.

They're probably making anonymous calls to the ASPCA, reviewing the "Willard" movie, and planning their next move...

 

[TromboneAl]

Soft Rack

I got a "Hard Core" soft rack (click here for video) for an upcoming trip, but I realized that since it lets me go surfing in the Echo instead of the Tacoma pickup, I'll save six bucks each time I drive to Crescent City for surfing.

Seems like a quality product.

 

[caracol7]

I'm glad I found this thread ! I'm 50, haven't reached early retirment yet, but hope to spend a lot of time surfing when I do. I took up kiteboarding this past year and I'm just now getting on the board with water starts. I think it will be a blast. So . . . I'll be on my 9'4" Robert August noserider when the wind is calm, and flying with my 14 meter kite when the wind picks up.

So how old are the older folks still surfing in this thread? I hope I can still be riding some smooth three footer's when I'm 75.

 

[Nords]

We put all our surfing-geek talk into this thread so that the rest of the hodads posters can ignore it. Sometimes it goes a few weeks between updates.

So how old are the older folks still surfing in this thread? I hope I can still be riding some smooth three footer's when I'm 75.

I'm 46 and I've only been surfing for nearly five years. The "Surfing for Life" documentary showed Doc Ball on the waves (and his skateboard!) into his 90s, and of course there are plenty of actively surfing Hawaii legends in their 70s & 80s. I think Woody Browne has stopped going out, though.

I've thought about taking up wind-, kite-, and stand-up paddle-surfing when I get tired/bored with doing helicopters on my longboard. Hasn't happened yet, and it might take a decade or two...

 

[TromboneAl]

After trying Nords' 7'9" shorter board, I thought maybe it would be nice to have a short board for the days when the waves are bigger.

The above 6'7" board is on craigslist for $50 OBO. But it might be too short for me. I'm 5' 11" and weight 167. What do you think?

 

[ronin]

It's not too short for you at all assuming you can adjust to riding a short board. It requires a totally different approach to your surfing.

 

[Nords]

After trying Nords' 7'9" shorter board, I thought maybe it would be nice to have a short board for the days when the waves are bigger.
The above 6'7" board is on craigslist for $50 OBO. But it might be too short for me. I'm 5' 11" and weight 167. What do you think?

I haven't had any luck on our 6'10", but one day...

OTOH $50 is a cheap price to pay for an experiment that would make nice wall art later.

 

[JB]

Check that board for soft spots before buying it. If it delaminated, don't buy it (should be free).

I tried to transition from a 9' to a 6'10 thinking I'd be more confortable on the short board in larger waves. I learned that being able to get around quickly (ie - get out of the way), and catch one out of a set is a lot more fun -- especially when there are others around. I can catch waves on the 6'10 if it's not too steep and there isn't any competition (very unusual around here). If it's big and steep, i chicken out of the drop. On the 7'6 it's much easier to paddle and catch waves. The 8' minitanker is a good trade off in larger surf.

If you were in your 20s I'd say get the shortboard. If you are anything like me, you'll find it easier to transition down. In this case get a mini-tanker.

How was the surf on Oahu? I know we didn't have much happening on the North/West shores, but I kept seeing forcasts for small south swell. Last time we surfed Waikiki was around 3 years ago. We had a blast at Queens.

 

[TromboneAl]

How was the surf on Oahu?

It was great. Nothing big or powerful, but I got lots of nice long rides. There's something very nice about those waves. Even if you can't go around them on the way out, they don't pack much of a punch after they've broken.


I surfed Queens the most. My longest ride was at Canoes. A long left that turned into a right.

------------------------

I think the main reason I want to add a short board is that I want to be able to duck dive.

It requires a totally different approach to your surfing.

Can you elaborate on that?

 

[ronin]

Can you elaborate on that?

Sure, I’ll try. The first thing you’ll notice is paddle-ability. Without the volume of foam you’re used to, it’ll seem like you are going nowhere for a while. Time paddling should solve that one. You will be able to duck dive, so you have to change your mind-set on the go outs and relearn the best way to paddle out. Your line-up for take off changes. It probably will be harder to sit as far outside and catch the waves early. So you’ll need to get used to taking off later. You won’t need as much momentum, so you can turn, sink the tail a bit and pop the board into the face with only a couple of strokes. Late take-offs are hairier until you master ‘em. You won’t be moving your feet around to shift your weight forward and back like you do on the log. No walking to the nose! You basically plant in the same spot every time and shift weight from rail to rail, fore and aft through the hips. You’ll need good upper leg strength to press out forcefully off the bottom turns and snap the nose around. Generating speed is totally different. Don’t count on the board cruising through sections with you along for the ride. You need rail to rail transitions, pumping the board for a series of connected accelerations. You always will be shifting weight, moving rail to rail, stop for more than short moments and you'll start to stall out. I’d agree with JB that a short-longboard or hybrid in the 7’6” to 8’ range would be an easier transition but you won’t be duck diving it, if that’s your goal. Oh, and you'll need to master the phrase: "friggin' lard-a$$ longboarders!"

 

[ronin]

hey, check out this fat and sassy one - southside HB pier.

 

[TromboneAl]

Good info, thanks.

 

[TromboneAl]

I saw the board, and it was delaminated in spots. It also was thinner than it appeared in the photo. So it was a no go.

 

[ronin]

Surfboards have such a short half-life . And short boards especially, in the quest for lightness, seem to last only a couple of years. I've always felt new boards have a special liveliness that fades with use until it becomes just an inert object that floats.

 

[Nords]

I've always felt new boards have a special liveliness that fades with use until it becomes just an inert object that floats.

Every time I walk into a surf shop I feel a compelling need to conduct additional research...

 

[JB]

We have a decent north swell running and this thread inspired me to go shortboarding. Tuesday I surfed for around 90 minutes and caught maybe 3-4 waves. My best wave was the last where I got 2 or 3 cutbacks which left me with some stoke.

Yesterday I surfed twice, once at baldwin and later at my favorite spot near the airport. I caught a few waves on the 7'6 at baldwin but it's a very short ride so it was mostly practice dropping in. Later we went to another break that's more of a longboard wave. I caught about 2-3 waves and got had some good rides. Ronin's advice was very helpful. Then I switched back to the longboard and surfed until dark.

I find duck diving to be very difficult. I can only maintain forward momentum in very small surf. Anything over shoulder high and I'm getting pushed back. In overhead surf I get hammered. One problem is that I often fall to the side of the board once under water. Maybe I just need more practice. Here's what I am doing:
- approach with speed momentum.
- push the nose down with both hands. Nose goes down at an angle, right side rail first.
- once the nose is headed down get my foot on the tail and try to push the tail down too. As the tail sinks I often fall to the side.

I've seen advanced surfers duck dive 9' longboards in overhead surf, so I know it's possible.

Ronin - do you have any tips ? Thanks.

 

[ronin]

JB, is your short board the 7'6"? That's the length of my shortest board and no way can I duck dive it. Too much bouyancy (my arse ends up sticking out of the water!). You have to be able to fully submerge. I haven't ridden anything under that length since I was, well, let's just say a lot younger. Sorry I can't help. BTW-largish (HH+ to 2X OH) southern hemi swell due midweek for us (anytime for you, I'd guess). Huge seas, large fetch and directed straight at us. And I have the week off for spring break. Fingers are crossed on this one.

r

 

[Nords]

Sorry I can't help. BTW-largish (HH+ to 2X OH) southern hemi swell due midweek for us (anytime for you, I'd guess). Huge seas, large fetch and directed straight at us. And I have the week off for spring break. Fingers are crossed on this one.

"A moderate south swell is expected Tuesday with surf heights below advisory level." For the south shore I think that "advisory level" is eight feet, but that only means "most of the waves will be below advisory level".

I'm there!

 

[TromboneAl]

I went out at Camel Rock on Thursday -- first surfing since returning from Hawaii. It's a lot more work here; the waves are meaner somehow, plus hiking up/down cliff and wetsuit on/off.

But there's one big advantage: there was no one surfing near me and every wave was mine if I wanted it. Quite a luxury that I can appreciate more now.

 

[JB]

JB, is your short board the 7'6"? That's the length of my shortest board and no way can I duck dive it.

Yes, I was on the 7'6. I also have a 6'10 and can't duck dive that one either! I find duck diving to be a lot harder than it looks.

 

[JB]

But there's one big advantage: there was no one surfing near me and every wave was mine if I wanted it. Quite a luxury that I can appreciate more now.

That's a big plus! The places where I surf are frequently crowded. I often go out in less than ideal conditions (wind, huge waves on the outside, or at sunset) just to avoid the people.

 

[ronin]

Double OH today, OH+ yesterday. Just about maxed out for what my beach break can hold. Got lucky this AM and paddled right out with only a few bombers hitting me over the head. Hopefully the swell holds through tomorrow!

 

[Nords]

I'm glad the surf managed to cooperate with your spring break!

4-6 today and more tomorrow at White Plains. (The traditional season of "Mother's Day to Thanksgiving" has been just blown away by this winter's swells.) My knees are much more springy today than they've been in the last six months and I'm starting to feel The Force whenever I catch one.

Now if I could just do more of those 180-degree cutbacks on a 9'0". OK, if I could just do ONE of them...