Surfing Thread

I have a question about board flex.

I tore both of my knee's ACLs in 2001, started surfing in 2002, and started taekwondo in 2004. I spent the next couple years spraining my remaining knee ligaments & damaging their cartilage at least 3-4 times before I finally saw a doctor in 2006 and got the MRIs. Now that I understand the problem, I've spent the last couple years healing my remaining ligaments & strengthening my quads. I have significant damage to my left knee (torn cartilage & meniscus wear) that prevents me from fully straightening that leg, but I'm finally back to a decent level of strength with no swelling. I'll have all my meniscii scraped and both ACLs rebuilt in late 2010 (after our kid's in college) but for now I spend my workouts chugging ibuprofen while doing squats & lunges until my left knee swells with its complaints.

I've realized that I have structural (not mental or muscular!) limits. My knees are much stronger but I can't do single-leg squats like I could before I tore my ACLs. I can't really support my entire body weight on my left leg if it's bent more than 90 degrees. I can't jump-rope on my left leg because I'm missing something that's necessary for muscle leverage or shock absorption. I'm finally skilled enough at taekwondo to realize that there are some maneuvers that I cannot do without an ACL, even when I'm wearing orthopedic knee braces.

I can bottom-turn and steer a board just fine, especially if it's between 7'9"-10'6", but lately I'm beginning to suspect that my knees can't take the g-forces necessary to do a good hard twisting 180-off-the-lip cutback. Lord knows I've tried, but I can't squat down hard & fast enough in the turn. Maybe I could do it if I could get both hands down on the deck, but that kinda screws up the torso-twisting motion to whip the nose around. And I've learned real quickly in taekwondo not to rapidly twist my torso with both feet on the floor.

So I'm intrigued with Jim Richardson's Surflight boards. I can appreciate the hydrodynamic benefits of flex, and it might be a lot easier on my knees.

Have any of you tried a more flexible board, and does this seem legit? Or does it just sound like surfing technobabble? Is there a better technique for carving a sharp turn, or is this why geezer surfers are so smooth and flowing instead of always doing cutbacks?
 
My board is mush and so I don't know if a better board would improve my surfing. If it gets you on the water more often it probably will. That Surflight sounds like an interesting board to demo. Can you do that?

We had a great June with plenty of south swell action. There hasn't been much since then.
 
Surf towns travel article

To get your mind off the market, check out the cover story for this month's Budget Travel magazine:

LAIDBACK AND OFFBEAT
Legendary Surf Towns


Follow the surf-board-toting crowd, and wherever you land, you'll find a great vibe. Not to mention plenty of sun, sand, and good eats. Surfer Kimball Taylor takes you on a guided tour.
By Kimball Taylor, November 2008 issue

Legendary Surf Towns - Budget Travel

Great beach and town pictures in the slide show.
 
Nice picture of the surf in Portugal. Hope to surf there someday.
 
Kind of nice day at the beach yesterday.
 

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Empty dreams!
 

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I'm impressed that you caught the dolphin. It must've been hanging around for a while-- but why? Maybe it was looking for a way to distract the pursuing shark?

Are you able to read the settings on your camera without contacts/glasses, or do you set it up on the beach and hope that the automatic focus takes care of everything else?
 
Been a while since I've had anything special for this thread.

Last month my daughter and I did a five-day "surf camp" with Progressive Surfing (Progressive Surfing | About Us) and I'm still over-stoked. I'll have a stupid grin on my face for another month.

I should've done this years ago. I learned to surf with a quick beginner's lesson followed by seven years of reading books & magazines, watching videos, and imitating the rest of the lineup. Lots of trial & error before it began to dawn on me that I could use more help. But it was worth waiting, too-- our kid is finally old enough, big enough, & strong enough to benefit from the coaching. I learned a lot and enjoyed playing with the bigger waves almost as much as I enjoyed watching her learn and have fun. She's a much better (and safer) surfer now, she's way more ready to go out on her own, and she has the confidence to tackle the 15-footers.

I've spent years as a trainer, and it's a pleasure to see it done well. Pancho & Myles are those rare combinations of professionals who can both do and teach. They watch, suggest, and explain. One of them surfed with us while the other was on the beach shooting video for later review. By the end of the first three-hour day I'd made minor changes to my takeoff, pop-up, stance, and board position. On the second day the tweaks really paid off and it just kept getting better. I can't believe how much more control I've gained. I finally understand how to paddle into those 20-footers (and when to paddle outside) and how to get down the face without pearling. Better still I'm carving faster, with much more power, and much less effort.

Every day was a new experience. They'd find an uncrowded break with good conditions, phone it in, and meet us on the beach. After 10-20 minutes of discussion we'd paddle out and go to work. Nobody was wearing a watch and 2-3 hours would fly by before I knew it. We'd wear ourselves out, paddle in, stagger ashore, and spend another 20-30 minutes talking story before planning the next day.

We learned almost as much on the beach as on the waves. Now we're familiar with a half-dozen North Shore spots with that don't attract a crowd. We're reading the rips, currents, and winds much better. We're already strong paddlers, but now we're much more efficient. We actually paddle less to get to where we need to be and to take off. I've learned a lot more about board design/selection and we're ready to shop for a newer eight-footer. Better still, our kid understands what she wants and should be able to navigate the shopping without too much upselling.

Some of us are keenly aware that teenagers become skeptical of parental advice and tend to seek out their own mentors, for good or for worse. As our teen gets ready to leave the nest, she's been totally unreceptive to most parental surfing suggestions and I've learned to keep my mouth shut. But for five days I was able to relax and focus on my own skills while she happily did everything Myles & Pancho told her to try. By the third day I was quietly feeding those guys my own comments on problems she's had for months, and she was cheerfully letting them fix those bad habits too. She'd probably even have accepted their advice on homework & chores.

When their coaching all comes together it's one of those memories you'll carry for the rest of your life. On the fourth day I took off late (but square & balanced) on a 15+ with a floater that seemed to last as long as a two-story elevator ride. After the bottom turn I rode it over a hundred yards, a half-dozen bottom turns & cutbacks, at least 20-30 seconds. Everything went perfectly and I'll be trying to recreate that ride for months.

One morning by Kammie's we were waiting between sets when a turtle surfaced right between us, close enough to reach out and pat its back. Its shell had to be at least three feet long and it was pointing its head outside in the same direction as us, looking for a good wave. It stayed with us for a couple of noisy breaths, a good 10-15 seconds, before moving on. Wish I'd had my camera out there.

Anyway these guys are highly recommended. I'd happily spend the money all over again, and I'll probably be back in a few years for advanced work. If you're an older surfer looking to tune up your skills, this camp is one of the best mid-life crises you could ever hope to have. If you have a kid with strong paddling skills who's ready to push their envelope, these guys will keep them challenged while showing them how to stay safe.
 
Hey, that sounds really, really good. I should see if I can find something like that here.

I'll bet you a drink at Lulu's that the instructor got you to lose the double-armed paddling at take-off. Am I right?
 
I'll bet you a drink at Lulu's that the instructor got you to lose the double-armed paddling at take-off. Am I right?
*Ahem.* Not takin' that bet.

He didn't have to use much persuasion; it became self-evident that I didn't need it anymore.
 
So Nords and Al, I have been reading about stand up paddle boarding. Have either of you tried it yet? If so, do you think it would be easy for creaky old newbies to pick up?
 
So Nords and Al, I have been reading about stand up paddle boarding. Have either of you tried it yet? If so, do you think it would be easy for creaky old newbies to pick up?
No, but I've gone to a seminar and I've been reading everything I find about it. I've been "saving" it for my 70s or when I can no longer pop up fast enough or when longboarding gets "boring".

I know that it's a heckuva core workout, but I'm surprised by the guys who've been losing weight on it. I thought I was already in core shape and wouldn't get much from it, but I might be wrong. One of my taekwondo friends, a retired AF guy who's 6"2 and 200 pounds of solid fitness-for-life muscle, says it's one of the few remaining workouts where he can really push himself. You already have the balance skills, so you'd make the transition in about 15 minutes. It'll seem ridiculously stable next to a sailboard or a kiteboard. You'll probably want to add a beer cooler & turn signals.

It's been getting some local press:
China Uemura: A Stand-up Guy | Currents | Midweek.com

Buffalo Keaulana's annual Makaha competition has had a SUP division for a couple years. At first the guys were just clowning around (Brian managed to get a lounge chair and a beach umbrella on his SUP) but the paddle lets you plant & dig unbelieveably hard for a sharp cutback or off-the-lip. And of course no wave will ever be too small for a SUP.

The two biggest "problems" out here are the newbie SUPs who stay with the rest of the lineup and hog everything instead of going out further, and the cost of the equipment. I have a hard time paying $125/foot for a board or $300 for a paddle, but I'm more than patient enough to wait for a Craigslist bargain.

I'd also have to seriously rethink my Prius "HandiRack" to be able to haul around a 12' monster. But I'd even buy a beater pickup truck for this purpose.

Laird Hamilton has a YouTube video demonstrating how to surf 15-footers on a SUP. But I've heard the day ended with 14 stitches, and nobody lives very long by emulating his behavior...
 

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So Nords and Al, I have been reading about stand up paddle boarding. Have either of you tried it yet? If so, do you think it would be easy for creaky old newbies to pick up?

I haven't tried it. I'm not that interested, since it seems more complicated to have a paddle with you. Also, it seems to me that paddling out through the waves would be harder standing up. It sure has become popular though.
 
Finally a series of south swells are on tap for the next week. Hopefully it'll have a few corners and not be walls from one end of the beach to the other!
 

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I haven't tried it. I'm not that interested, since it seems more complicated to have a paddle with you. Also, it seems to me that paddling out through the waves would be harder standing up. It sure has become popular though.

In 2008 we saw a guy in Crescent City, Ca using s SUP Board to surf. There were 5 to 7 foot waves and he would paddle out through them no problem and them wait for a good one and use the paddle to gain some momentum to catch the wave. He was wearing a wet suit, even in summer the water up there is icy, but hardly needed it as he never went down.

I tried one up at Lake Tahoe. Couldn't get up. The board was too small for me and as soon as I got to my feet it would cavitate and off I went. My 120 lb DW was up almost immediately. They are becoming an alternative to kayaks to explore all the coves and beaches up there. In the afternoon the wind will bring in waves big enough to ride.
 
Finally a series of south swells are on tap for the next week. Hopefully it'll have a few corners and not be walls from one end of the beach to the other!
I've thoroughly enjoyed surfing five of the last 10 days in this swell, and I'm really looking forward to [-]trying out my daughter's epoxy board[/-] tomorrow's eight-footers.
 
Drove 4 hours for 2-3' surf in Corpus Christi yesterday! How's that for dedicated?

Short period wind swell, but still fun. Wind was calm so it was kind of clean; maybe 20 people out, mellow crowd. On my very first wave I tried to cut back too hard and fell off, and my leash broke sending my board to the beach. KooK!!! :LOL::LOL::LOL::LOL:
 
Bummer, dude. How's the water temp in your part of the ocean? It's been between 52 - 60 degrees around here. Where's our summer? Even the stingrays are wearing wetsuits!
 
How's the water temp in your part of the ocean

Ha! Got you beat there. Water was a comfy 87 degrees yesterday, which actually felt cool since the air temp was about 95 with humidity almost that high. Good old late summer Texas weather!
 
Been a while since I've had something for this thread.

First, today's dawn patrol air temp was 64 degrees (according to my car's thermometer). Water temp was in the low-mid 70s but I knew well enough to get out when it started feeling warm. I'm glad I don't have an aquarium thermometer stuck to my longboard yet, but today's the first day in over eight years of surfing that I wore neoprene. It's just a 3mm tank top and I think I want sleeves too. It's not even December yet.

Next, after the last couple months of North Shore 10-12 footers, it's really nice to do a little south shore 2-4. There was very little chop, almost morning glass. Everything happens at a more leisurely pace, it doesn't matter if you take off a bit late or don't pop up perfectly square, you don't have to watch the current like a hawk to make sure you're not pushed under the worst part of the break, and it's a lot easier to get your toes on the nose. Which probably means that I need to spend more time on the North Shore... maybe after the surfing contests are finished for the year.

Finally, today I saw my first waterproof MP3 player in the lineup. I'm not sure how I feel about that. At first I thought she was wearing surfer's earplugs with a lanyard, but then I saw her reach back to the pocket of her shorts to adjust the volume or change the track. She was in her 20s or early 30s and she wasn't a kook, but I've never seen her on the south shore before. I'm pretty sure that if she'd been one of the regulars then she would've been teased all the way back to the beach...
 
Not a perfect day today, but close. Blue skies, warm air, sea temp not too bad, high 50s. A lot of head high plus waves, hollow, peeling lefts with light feathering offshore on almost glass. This makes 10 out of the last 11 days that I have surfed all morning. Last Monday was by far the best surf of the winter to that point. I will have to see how my body holds out because the forecast is for waves all week. Got worked over the weekend by mackers and strong side shore drift, salt water tread mill, hard Santana offshore winds. Had one day last week, Wed, where the south wind came up and blew in thick fog. Only one out. Long period overhead sets, and couldn't see 10', lost touch with the shore and began wondering what the heck was I doing. Luckily caught a big right all the way in to shore and was a half mile from where I started. Crazy!
 
You guys need to check this out! The videos are insane. Some of the point of view shots, the wipeout at Mav's with the on screen clock ticking off the time while the jet ski rescuers try to find the guy, the weird-assed boil on the face of the wave at Todos, these guys are nuts. Looking at the faces of the big wave surfers featured, you see some seriously older surfers with elephant balls.

Chasing the Swell - latimes.com
 

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