Your recent repair? 2013 - 2020

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Saw another 50 gal Rheem WH at Home Depot for $368. Will have to find out what their contractor charges for installation. I used a HD contractor to install my current WH 20 years ago, and was happy with the price then, which I think was under $100 !

I guess I could install the WH myself. I would have to cut 2 copper pipes and use sharkbites to connect them to the WH. I'm not familiar with copper pipe soldering. Very basic electrical wiring hookup. Seems easy, but....

It will be a lot more than $100 to get Home Depot to install it. I purchased a water heater from them last year and they quoted me close to $1k (including the water heater). I ended up installing it myself, not too difficult, makes it easier if the new water heater is the same physical size. There are youtube videos on soldering, practice doing a couple joints beforehand or maybe get a plumber to come out to do the final connections and check everything out.
 
We had quality problems with the Big Box store brands with the last two water heaters (our house and daughter's). Bought Bradford & White brand units and they have been great for years now.
 
Was looking at Rheem in HD yesterday. Discussed the hot water heater with my HVAC installer. The echonet module is available for the water heater, meaning controllable schedules. Ours is natural gas.

I expect an installation to cost $250 today. Have to see what local rates are.

The old water heater probably went in 20 years ago. The previous started leaking on New Years Day. Next day I went to HD and bought GE Profile 50 gal. Kid and I dragged it to basement. I was able to make the flexible water connections, but called the local gas co. to make the gas connection.
 
It will be a lot more than $100 to get Home Depot to install it. I purchased a water heater from them last year and they quoted me close to $1k (including the water heater). I ended up installing it myself, not too difficult, makes it easier if the new water heater is the same physical size. There are youtube videos on soldering, practice doing a couple joints beforehand or maybe get a plumber to come out to do the final connections and check everything out.

My inlet and outlet copper tubes are soldered on, but I'm more comfortable with going the sharkbite route, I think. Seems easier and less mistake-prone for me than trying to solder it.

I have to figure out where to cut the copper tubes, for the different lengths of sharkbite.

To get rid of the old water heater, I'd list in on Craigslist free, for a recycler to take.

Might have to buy a dolly, these things are heavy.
 
You probably want to check your State code regulations.
For example in IL you can go and buy flexible water connections similar to the type used on toilets in IL, and gas connections just like the type used on stoves in IL.
However, in IL the the water heaters have to be hard line connected. Meaning copper water pipes soldered, and the gas pipe has to be the black iron pipe.

Since earthquake prone CA (as far as I know) use the flexible connections, it seems IL makes it hard simply to ensure plumbers get work.

My IL HD sells any kind of connector you want, even the non-code ones, so just because it's in the store does not mean legit.

I went the legit route, because I didn't want insurance to be able to deny a claim years down the road.
 
All this talk of water heaters, I may as well add some of my experience, recent and ancient.

We just had our water heater replaced when I got the furnace and A/C done this season. This water heater was the original in the house, mfg date of 1986! I meant to replace it 15 years ago, thinking it was at end of life, and could go any day. Procrastination paid off once again!

I recall we had a strong rotten egg smell after we moved in (1992). We are on private well with water softener. I don't recall the details, but this problem can be triggered if the house has been unused for a few weeks (which it was), and I'm pretty sure I replaced the anode with the one recc for this problem (aluminum-zinc rather than magnesium?). I also decided to replace it many years later, realizing that they do get eaten away over time (they are called sacrificial anodes), but the old one was sooooo tight, I decided I might break something if I torqued any harder on it, so I left it.

Now I'm reading in these sources, that softened water aggressively eats away these anodes. But, I had the same anode from 1992 to 2016, surely it was gone for many years, and no problems?

So after the new one was in for 3 months, we suddenly got strong rotten egg smell. Hmmm, I'm thinking the installer should have asked, and installed the aluminum-zinc one to avoid a call back on this? But I figured since it happened so suddenly, I would try the 'quick fix' of adding bleach or hydrogen-peroxide to the tank, and see if that helps. I just used bleach, and to avoid unscrewing the anode or inlet/outlet, I just shut off the cold water valve at the inlet, and then opened the COLD water tap at the laundry sink (which was conveniently on the water heater side of the shut-off valve). Next, I held a cup directly up to an upstairs faucet, poured a bleach water solution into that, and opened the HOT water side. This sucked the solution into this faucet, and into the tank. I used about 1 cup of bleach total (probably too much), and after a few minutes, followed up with a couple quarts of clear water to get all that out of the pipes and into the tank. Closed the faucets, opened the valve to the water heater, and did a quick flush of all the faucets in the house to get the air and any loosened gunk out.

So we had a pretty strong bleach smell (like going to a swimming pool) for a day, and no rotten egg smell. Just to be sure I followed up again with 1/2 Cup bleach two days later. It's been 2 weeks now, and no return of the rotten egg smell, so maybe we are OK?

Reading about the T&P valve here, I realize I could probably suck bleach water in through that while opening the drain valve - then I wouldn't need to run up/down stairs or enlist DW to open close the faucet. Would need to open the valve first into a bucket to get the air out so it could siphon back.

On a semi-related note, these 'rotten egg' references also mentioned that if you have a bad smell at one faucet, it could be 'nasties' in the drain. Well, I have had intermittent issues like that at one drain, and never really find the source. Then one of them mentioned the overflow drain - of course! That gets gunk in it, and rarely ever gets flushed out. So I've been getting some bleach solution down the overflow port, and I think that is doing the trick there as well.

-ERD50
 
All this talk of water heaters, I may as well add some of my experience, recent and ancient...........
-ERD50
I went through this and even made a gizmo out of pipe so I could treat the tank with bleach through the drain valve. Bottom line was it only works for a while, then the problem returns. The permanent fix was to remove the anode altogether. It may have shortened the heater's life, though, as it only lasted 20 more years.
 
Be sure to measure the width and height of your old tank as they now come in various sizes.

I ended up installing it myself, not too difficult, makes it easier if the new water heater is the same physical size.
Yep, be sure to measure the actual size. A 50 gal tank made 20 years ago will likely be smaller than a 50 gal tank today. The latest round of mandated insulation standards have led some people to go down a notch or two in capacity so they could still fit the WH in the same closet. Doesn't matter that you'd prefer a different, slimmer one like you used to have, and the manufacturer and retailer would both like to sell you one--they can't be sold.

Reading about the T&P valve here, I realize I could probably suck bleach water in through that while opening the drain valve - then I wouldn't need to run up/down stairs or enlist DW to open close the faucet.
Don't the T&P valves have a gasket? Depending on what it is made of, it might not do well with a concentrated bleach solution, even if it is okay with typical chlorine levels in municipal water. Those bleach toilet bowl "fresheners" sure destroyed the rubber parts in many toilets.
 
...
Don't the T&P valves have a gasket? Depending on what it is made of, it might not do well with a concentrated bleach solution, even if it is okay with typical chlorine levels in municipal water. Those bleach toilet bowl "fresheners" sure destroyed the rubber parts in many toilets.

Yes, but the strong bleach would be sucked up in less than a minute, then just like I did from the faucet, I'd follow up with a few quarts of clear water, maybe a few gallons in this case. I would think that would be fine.

-ERD50
 
Yep, be sure to measure the actual size. A 50 gal tank made 20 years ago will likely be smaller than a 50 gal tank today. The latest round of mandated insulation standards have led some people to go down a notch or two in capacity so they could still fit the WH in the same closet. Doesn't matter that you'd prefer a different, slimmer one like you used to have, and the manufacturer and retailer would both like to sell you one--they can't be sold....

Sure enough the new 50 gal water heater at Home Depot is 23 inches diameter whereas the old one is 20.5 inch diam. But no problem with flexible Sharkbites ( he said hopefully).

I broke down and called an HVAC place for an estimate. Just to replace my 50 gal electric with a Brad and White 50 gal, ground level, minimal changes to piping, easy access to WH, would be $1,150. Wow.

I then asked him what it would cost if I had my own new WH sitting there, for him to install, and he said..... $500. What?

Well, at least he was willing to talk to me about WH's. He said Rheem was a decent brand, and that Sharkbites were fine, and that he uses them himself if the customer requests it.

He thought the pressure relief valve leak at the threads that I have could be a crack (don't know if he meant in valve itself or in the metal tank. He must have meant the valve.)

Still can't get the TPR valve off. I held a propane flame to it for a few minutes and that didn't help. Still stuck.


Just had a new thought. Maybe I could apply some semihardening sealant around the threads. I think the PSI inside the tank wouldn't get much above normal water pressure (50 psi?) . I have the temp set at 170 degrees.
 
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Just had a new thought. Maybe I could apply some semihardening sealant around the threads. I think the PSI inside the tank wouldn't get much above normal water pressure (50 psi?) . I have the temp set at 170 degrees.
You've tried penetrating "buster" on it with a little heat, let it sit overnight, and still no luck? Maybe your sealant idea will work (perhaps some RTV after cleaning the area thoroughly). I think it would be a long shot. If you haven't done it already, I'd buy a cheap water alarm and put it in the pan under the WH (it's in a pan, right? :)). If a threaded neck is cracked (or, more likely, the nipple is corroded), a leak could become a gusher very quickly and you'd want to know about that right away.

If you can't get the drip stopped, there's eventually nothing to lose by putting a big wrench on that thing and probably a cheater, and giving it a turn. Obviously, if you can get a pipe wrench or some vice grips on the male fitting at the tank and turn the other way at the same time, it will reduce the chance of twisting off the fitting and (probably) destroying the WH. But before you go crazy, make sure you've shopped for water heaters already, you know the place you'd like to buy it already has one in stock, and you've got a plan for installing it.
 
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If you screw a 3 or 4 foot piece of galvanized pipe into the pressure relief valve you may
be able to break the valve free.
 
Sure enough the new 50 gal water heater at Home Depot is 23 inches diameter whereas the old one is 20.5 inch diam. But no problem with flexible Sharkbites ( he said hopefully).

I broke down and called an HVAC place for an estimate. Just to replace my 50 gal electric with a Brad and White 50 gal, ground level, minimal changes to piping, easy access to WH, would be $1,150. Wow.

I then asked him what it would cost if I had my own new WH sitting there, for him to install, and he said..... $500. What?

Well, at least he was willing to talk to me about WH's. He said Rheem was a decent brand, and that Sharkbites were fine, and that he uses them himself if the customer requests it.

....

The size difference only matters in how close it is to walls, and of course the water connections. So if you have lots of room as in extra inches around it then no worries.

Call around a few places, as I got that at one place $500 when I had my own tank, and then the next place was $250.
Whoever you think you will use, check them with BBB or some review place to see they are ok.

The job at my place to hard solder in the water pipes and use the black iron pipe to connect the gas (and install a new gas shutoff I had purchased) took almost 2 hours.

It would have been cheaper by the hour, which is why none of them work like that for water heaters.

I also had a coupon for $30 off, which they accepted :dance:
 
Update. Finally got the valve off! Then discovered what looks like vertical crack in threads of tank. Also, believe it or not, a vertical crack in the PTR valve threads ! Just for kicks, I wrapped some teflon tape around the TPR and screwed it back in. Water now is not coming out the top of the valve threads, but is still oozing in on the top of the tank around the bottom of the nipple(?) (the raised part that has the hole in it) that accepts the TPR. I think the tank might be cracked there. Can't actually see any crack there, but the water is coming from somewhere. I am looking through a hole from a plastic poput that I removed, that lets me shine a light onto the center of the top of the tank, where the TPR is. Tried to remove the whole top of the unit so I can see the entire top of the tank to see where the leak is, but seems to be a major PITA. May be new water heater time.
 
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Oh yeah, if the tank is cracked get a new one.
 
Oh yeah, if the tank is cracked get a new one.


Agreed - that valve is going to be the typical tapered pipe thread style, and as you tighten them, they exert a lot of force trying to expand that joint. Any sort of band aid fix would be poor, you really can't fix something like that easily.

You could clean it up and try to get JB-WELD in there everywhere and screw it shut and give it 24 hours. But I would not.

-ERD50
 
May be new water heater time.
Yep. It will probably be problematic from this point forward, and maybe in a very inconvenient way. Right now you've got time to shop for a new one and figure out the best way to get it installed. That's what I'd do.
It sounds like at least you got lots of years of use out of it.
We get tremendous value from our appliances (and utilities). The >amazing< convenience of hot water every day for less than 50 cents/day. A machine that washes clothes (an hour-long drudgery if done by hand) for about 50 cents per load. We live far better (and longer) than royalty of old.
 
Sure enough the new 50 gal water heater at Home Depot is 23 inches diameter whereas the old one is 20.5 inch diam. But no problem with flexible Sharkbites ( he said hopefully).

I broke down and called an HVAC place for an estimate. Just to replace my 50 gal electric with a Brad and White 50 gal, ground level, minimal changes to piping, easy access to WH, would be $1,150. Wow.

I then asked him what it would cost if I had my own new WH sitting there, for him to install, and he said..... $500. What?

Well, at least he was willing to talk to me about WH's. He said Rheem was a decent brand, and that Sharkbites were fine, and that he uses them himself if the customer requests it.

He thought the pressure relief valve leak at the threads that I have could be a crack (don't know if he meant in valve itself or in the metal tank. He must have meant the valve.)

Still can't get the TPR valve off. I held a propane flame to it for a few minutes and that didn't help. Still stuck.


Just had a new thought. Maybe I could apply some semihardening sealant around the threads. I think the PSI inside the tank wouldn't get much above normal water pressure (50 psi?) . I have the temp set at 170 degrees.

Home Depot has installers, have you called them for a quote as well. An independent plumber needs typically needs the margin on the water heater as well to break even. Note that an install might also result in a new floor pan around the heater.
 
Well, let me just say I am in the middle of this repair....

I was walking by when my sprinkler system was on since I reset it at the wrong time... need to put in a new 9V backup battery.... but need a rechargeable one...


Saw that water was flowing from near the sidewalk and one of our flower beds... so dug up a bit and found a plastic piece was broken... today I dug it up more so I can get at that piece... but NO.. it broke off close to the PVC pipe and I cannot get it out... either need to get a tap tool or find some other way to get inside that little piece and work it out....


NOW, the bad part.... there were LOTS of roots going back and forth near this area.... and low and behold.... so was a wire for my low voltage lighting!!! Somehow I messed that up and instead of 8 lights on the front of the house I have a total of 2 working :mad:
 
I ordered all the parts and fluids, and yesterday and today changed all the fluids and filters in my little diesel tractor. The front tires were already badly dried and cracked when I moved overseas 5 years ago, and when I got back they were dried, cracked, and flat. I ordered new tires, but when I got the old ones off found that the inside of the wheels were badly rusted (the tractor began its life in a Japanese rice paddy). So I googled around and finally found a pair of rims that aren't a perfect match but should bolt on and work. So now I'm waiting for the UPS guy to deliver the rims before I can get the tractor going and till the weeds an the back yard.
 
Well, let me just say I am in the middle of this repair....

I was walking by when my sprinkler system was on since I reset it at the wrong time... need to put in a new 9V backup battery.... but need a rechargeable one...

Saw that water was flowing from near the sidewalk and one of our flower beds... so dug up a bit and found a plastic piece was broken... today I dug it up more so I can get at that piece... but NO.. it broke off close to the PVC pipe and I cannot get it out... either need to get a tap tool or find some other way to get inside that little piece and work it out....

NOW, the bad part.... there were LOTS of roots going back and forth near this area.... and low and behold.... so was a wire for my low voltage lighting!!! Somehow I messed that up and instead of 8 lights on the front of the house I have a total of 2 working :mad:

Irrigation systems are a PITA! I've had many issues similar to what you've got. And at our FL house all the pipes are 6" or less underground, since it never freezes down there. It seems every time I stick anything into the ground I break a pipe, either irrigation or home water supply. And tree roots! My go to digging tool has become a sawzall. Good luck.
 
Irrigation systems are a PITA! I've had many issues similar to what you've got. And at our FL house all the pipes are 6" or less underground, since it never freezes down there. It seems every time I stick anything into the ground I break a pipe, either irrigation or home water supply. And tree roots! My go to digging tool has become a sawzall. Good luck.


LOL... .the time I fixed a pipe in the back yard a few years back I got out the sawzall to cut through a one inch 'root'..... but found out that it was a Comcast cable in conduit that was less than 6 inches underground!!! It cut right through the conduit and cable... twice... since I had not noticed it was not a root on my first cut :facepalm:....


They actually tried to bill me for the repair :mad:


BTW, was using a lopper to cut roots... and STILL cut my light system wire.... I have not been lucky when going below ground...
 
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Have a Toyota 4R with a really ugly torn seat bottom on the drivers side near the door, seems to be a common issue on older Toyota's and has bugged me for a while. After some research I discovered that I could swap out the driver and passengers seat bottoms. On the passenger side it hides the tear as it is up against the console. took me several hours to remove both seats and swap out the bottom skins so I wouldn't mess with the air bag sensor on the passenger side. Well worth the effort IMO, local shop estimated $500+ to replace one bottom with no confidence in match.
 
LOL... .the time I fixed a pipe in the back yard a few years back I got out the sawzall to cut through a one inch 'root'..... but found out that it was a Comcast cable in conduit that was less than 6 inches underground!!! It cut right through the conduit and cable... twice... since I had not noticed it was not a root on my first cut :facepalm:....


They actually tried to bill me for the repair :mad:


BTW, was using a lopper to cut roots... and STILL cut my light system wire.... I have not been lucky when going below ground...


OK.. went to the store and found this...

Hampton Bay Low-Voltage Cable Splice Connector-HD28351 - The Home Depot


I bought this so I do not have to strip the wires and reconnect them.... but not sure if it can be buried....

One of the answers says yes, but wrap in electrical tape....


Any wisdom from the EEs out there:confused:
 
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