Blow Bag for Rain Drain Pipe

TromboneAl

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Jun 30, 2006
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I have this type of pipe leading water from downspout and away from the house.

f_155410PPC.jpg


It's clogged.

Alternatives:
  1. Buy blow bag
  2. Buy plumber snake
  3. Dig up pipe, cut, declog, add patch
  4. Call plumber

Suggestions?
 
Does that corrugated perforated pipe run the full distance of your drain line? I used that style of pipe where I needed to make bends or follow curves, but the main drain line is a solid 4 inch PVC pipe.

Have you checked each end of the drain for clogs? You might be able to reach in and pull out the majority of whatever is plugging the line.

Do you have access to the exit end of the drain line? If so, you could try putting a straight nozzle on the end of a garden hose and try pushing it up the drain while it's spraying water. That's probably easier to do with straight pipe than corrugated though.

Of course, it might be difficult to push a garden hose. Kind of like pushing a rope. Maybe you could rig up something with rigid PVC pipe that would be easier to push through the pipe. That technique is often used to tunnel under sidewalks or driveways, so there's a good chance it would clear your drain line.

Otherwise, you might need a long plumber snake. If you don't plan to use it often, renting would probably be smarter than buying.

If the end of the drain line is open, you should probably install a grate over the end to keep out mice and other critters that might want to build a home in your drain pipe. Gutter guards or filters will also help keep debris out of the drain line.
 
Al how long is this pipe?
Can you disconnect from drainpipe and use a leaf blower and some duct tape to attach it and see if you can blow the clog out?
 
Dig up and replace with the same type of pipe, and wrap it with the “sock” made for this type of pipe if you have sandy soil.
 
Is that the 4" drain pipe ? I had the 4' and it was not draining properly . Mine drains directly into the ground , I drain my shower, dishwasher and all sinks through this .

This is a good product and easy to work with . You can get a culvert cleaning tool ..yep bought one of those 69.00 mine drains about 30' so I couldn't reach all the way but I was able to remove some silt and eventually the water purged and opened everything up . Don't call a plumber you can do it yourself HD has all of the unions and you might want to add a cleanout . This will be a common problem .
 
Guessing there is a low spot that has silted up and then clogged with leaf debris from the gutters. Want to watch out on the drain snake - it is going to want to snag the plastic perforations and joints in the pipe. Make sure you are working with a snake that doesn't have an exposed wire tip. There is a possibility you might have luck with a bladder type unplugger:
https://www.harborfreight.com/catal...Featured+Weight,f,Sale+Rank,f&q=drain+bladder

On the low tech/expense side I've cleared lines by running a garden hose down the drain and plugging the entrance point with rag and hands. If you have a short nozzle you might attach it - tight, you don't want it coming off in mid drain - run the hose in as far as possible.
 
Since this is a downspout drain, what happens if it were simply detached, allowing the water to deep into the ground naturally, spreading out instead of concentrating the water in the draintube causing the overflow at the downspout connection.. Easy for me to say, as our home is built with a crawl space, no basement. Some of our neighbors who have similar homes, use a roll out exender.
https://www.google.com/search?newwindow=1&source=hp&ei=_z5HXN3hOIfCjgTE96jICw&q=roll+up+drain+extension&btnK=Google+Search&oq=roll+up+drain+extension&gs_l=psy-ab.3..0i22i30.6773.23636..24535...0.0..0.560.2889.21j0j1j0j1j1......0....1..gws-wiz.....0..35i39j0i67j0j0i131j0i131i67j0i20i263j0i10i67j0i10.g6M1Ls-9_8g
 
That type of pipe is a tree roots magnet. I used to use them, but no more.
 
+1 on doing new pipe with a sock. Also curious how long the pipe is and do you have it sloping for the entire length?
 
Here's a diagram:

laFF6kg.png


I estimated the clog locations by sticking a hose in (from downspout point and backwards from the T joint.

Photos:
2aodUvH.png

3ZpKrQM.png

bXS5MqD.png


The downspout is at a low point. All the water goes straight down around foundation without diversion. Gentle slope for about 60'.
 
The rag trick sounds like a good first step. The clog feels hard, but it's difficult to tell.

https://www.harborfreight.com/catalo...=drain+bladder

Wow, that's cheap. I'll get one today.

That first clog is so close, maybe I'll just dig up the start a stick a long stake in.
 
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It that last photo is accurate, it doesn't look like the drain line is buried very deep. If so, I would just dig it up and replace it with solid PVC drain pipe. You'll get better flow and it will be less likely to clog in the future.

You may also want to consider replacing those open grates under the gutter downspout with fixed connections. That will keep leaves and other debris from getting in the drains (except for whatever comes from the gutters).
drain1.jpg
drain2.jpg
 
I had this pipe for my downspouts and sump pump outlet for the last 15 years. In my case, it was always tree roots that clogged it. Every 3-4 years. They got in where there was a joint in the pipe.

I would not use a snake on that pipe. It will tear it up. I looked into the pressure water service but it was expensive and there were no guarantees. After the last clog (last November) , I just ripped it all up and replaced it with 4" sewer pipe so that I can snake it in the future.
 
Another vote for replacing the cheap stuff with solid PVC. Not a big job but satisfying solution. Make sure to use grates on the eaves to stop leaves collecting in it.
 
You may also want to consider replacing those open grates under the gutter downspout with fixed connections. That will keep leaves and other debris from getting in the drains.

I've thought about that. The problem is that there are tons of little pine needles that rain down on our roof. I'm sure they come down the downspout, and my catch basin is my trick for intercepting them.

OTOH, the downspout at the other corner of the house goes right into the drain, and I don't think that one has clogged (I'll have to check).
 
We have problems with this. Plumber declared it tree roots/wood that could not be cut out. Makes sense with the large maple tree right near the blockage. He recommended a complete dig out.

To buy time, I opened up the drain access cap upstream from there so now I get water in the front yard instead of in the basement.

Our pipe is solid white PVC I think.

-gauss
 
Dig it all up and replace with Schedule 40 PVC (can be roto-rooted out)

That's what we had to do with all the buried corrugated black pipe in my development.

Much of which had collapsed closed.
 
I've thought about that. The problem is that there are tons of little pine needles that rain down on our roof. I'm sure they come down the downspout, and my catch basin is my trick for intercepting them.

I started out with those green grates too, but found all kinds of stuff fell through the grates. The protruding downspouts also got in the way when mowing.

We're also surrounded by douglas fir trees and get lots of fir needles on the roof. I installed https://gutterstuff.com/ filters in my gutters so nothing gets in the gutter or clogs up the drain lines. 10+ years with no issues. You can find them on Amazon or most Home Depot stores.

The only downside to the gutter filters is the fir needles need to be cleaned off the top periodically, and weeds or small tree seedlings occasionally grow in the foam filter. It's not a big problem and is easy to take care of, but it is a yearly chore.
 
I vote #3. In the photo, it looks like the pipe is very shallow. I'd dig it up where you've measured the clog to be and cut it open to clean it out, then install a coupler to repair the cut. A more permanent solution is to replace it with solid pipe, as others have suggested, but that is a lot of work.
 
I think the only answer is to dig it up and put in something solid (Sched 40 PVC or regular "belled" 4" DWV would work). I'm not sure why the current pipe is perforated, since it doesn't seem to be in a good drainage medium (sand or gravel trench protected by a sock, etc). If you've got a good place to send the water, then definitely go with smooth solid pipe, no perforations.

The thing I like best about solid pipe is that it's easy to tell that the pipe has good fall, no dips, for the entire run. With the slinky pipe the corrugations not only grab silt and debris, but inevitably there are places that subside after you backfill over the pipe, and you get low spots. That's where the silt builds up over time, that's where the mosquitoes breed, etc.

You'll probably want to rent a trencher--money well spent.

ETA: I'd keep the grates like you have them to give you a chance to intercept the needles before they enter the pipe. Yes, maybe a finer screen.
 
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I've thought about that. The problem is that there are tons of little pine needles that rain down on our roof. I'm sure they come down the downspout, and my catch basin is my trick for intercepting them.

OTOH, the downspout at the other corner of the house goes right into the drain, and I don't think that one has clogged (I'll have to check).

If you are going to keep using the grate, at least put a window screen on top of it to stop more of the needles and dirt from falling though.
 
Yesterday I got a blow bag at Harbor Freight (thanks, Calmloki). I pushed it into the pipe and turned it on.

All the (input) water flowed out from the other end of the pipe (100 feet away).

So, what does that mean? I'm not sure. I think the blockage is still there, but with pressure, it lets water through. Maybe this means that unless it's raining very hard, the water will get through.

I'm resisting replacing it with PVC pipe, because there are curves, etc. That is, it's not just dig and replace. But maybe I should leave the old pipes and create a new, straight path for the PVC pipe? If I only have to drain this gutter, there's a shorter route that I could take, though I'll have to dig deeper.

The concept of the catch basin is that the debris doesn't get into the pipe:

catchbasin.png


And indeed, there was a lot of organic material at the bottom of the basin. But do you guys think a direct connection to the pipe is a better idea?
 
Yesterday I got a blow bag at Harbor Freight (thanks, Calmloki). I pushed it into the pipe and turned it on. All the (input) water flowed out from the other end of the pipe (100 feet away). So, what does that mean?

Either the pipe has dips in it allowing water to build up inside the pipe (kind of like the P-trap under your sinks), or there was no clog to start with.

I think the blockage is still there

Why do you think it is clogged? If you run water in through the top grate with a garden hose (no blow bag) does it come out the other end, or does it build up and overflow the grate? It sounds like you already cleaned out the catch basin.

I'm resisting replacing it with PVC pipe, because there are curves, etc. That is, it's not just dig and replace. But maybe I should leave the old pipes and create a new, straight path for the PVC pipe? If I only have to drain this gutter, there's a shorter route that I could take, though I'll have to dig deeper.

I would choose the straightest route, even if it meant a little extra digging, but that's just me. Less chance of clogging.

However, with 22.5 and 45 degree elbows you can go just about anywhere with solid pipe. Minimize the elbows if you can.

But do you guys think a direct connection to the pipe is a better idea?

I like the direct connection better, it looks cleaner and random debris won't fall through the grates. However, you have to take steps to keep debris out of the downspouts so it doesn't end up in the drain lines. I use gutter filters, but there are many other products on the market for keeping gutters clean.
 
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