Oil change on very low mileage vehicle

[freedomatlast]

a good fram filter.

Great oxymoron right there!

 

[ERD50]

I'm not very mechanically inclined but I did my own tune-up and oil changes for about 50 years. I even successfully installed points and plugs, brakes, brake master cylinders, clutch cables, fuel filters, adjusted valves, replaced alternators, flushed radiators, plugged tires, remove and repacked CV joints, etc. It wasn't difficult and it gave me some satisfaction to not be so dependent on others. Oil changes were just a matter of removing/reinstalling a drain plug and replacing a filter that simply unscrews. ...!

That sounds pretty mechanically inclined to me!

Perhaps you mean you are good at following directions, getting the job done, but maybe not so great at really understanding how mechanical things work, or to do something w/o guidance? I guess that is a different skill set.

...I wasn't aware until the car was on the lift that there is now some kind of large plate under the engine with multiple fasteners that has to be removed before you can begin and I couldn't even see the filter until that was first done.

I'm not sure why it is necessary since all those years and a couple of dozen cars it was never an issue. ...

I'm pretty sure that is done to cut down on wind resistance and improve fleet mpg. But you'd think there would be a small, easily removed access panel for things like the oil filter and drain plug.

But as travelover pointed out, if it costs a few cents, it probably gets shut down.

-ERD50

 

[skyking1]

I'm not very mechanically inclined but I did my own tune-up and oil changes for about 50 years. I even successfully installed points and plugs, brakes, brake master cylinders, clutch cables, fuel filters, adjusted valves, replaced alternators, flushed radiators, plugged tires, remove and repacked CV joints, etc. It wasn't difficult and it gave me some satisfaction to not be so dependent on others. Oil changes were just a matter of removing/reinstalling a drain plug and replacing a filter that simply unscrews.

Getting off the ground these days has become more of a challenge. Oil changes are now done by the service dept (under my watchful eye) on my 2020 Hyundai Santa Fe. Since I wasn't able to crawl under the car when purchasing I wasn't aware until the car was on the lift that there is now some kind of large plate under the engine with multiple fasteners that has to be removed before you can begin and I couldn't even see the filter until that was first done.

I'm not sure why it is necessary since all those years and a couple of dozen cars it was never an issue. So much about cars today have been made too complicated and difficult to access for maintenance as I get older and less flexible. Car manufacturers make more on general maintenance and repairs than on car sales. I think I can guess why some of the complexity.

Give me an air-cooled VW or a car with a slant 6 225 from the 60s/70s. I don't care about the small difference in fuel economy, having a heated seat, or computer voices telling me my tires need more air.



Cheers!

Cheers!
I had a 66 mustang with the 200 6 cylinder. you could put a blanket over the fender, push a drain pan in with your toe, and do the whole oil change from above. I could lean over the fender and reach the drain plug and filter. Then I hooked the edge of the drain pan with my toe and drug it back out. Simpler times, I agree.

 

[Sue J]

I have a specific question.

I drive a 2014 Toyota Corolla. It takes synthetic oil. It gets parked in the garage. My last oil change was 1 year ago and I've driven 1200 miles.

Because of my part time job as a school crossing guard I drive a very short commute and then sit in my parked car running the engine for most of an hour. In the winter it's to run the heater, in the hot weather it's to run the A/C. If it's nice out I don't run the engine, I just open the windows

So I have very LOW mileage but the engine runs for almost an hour, twice a day.

I'd like all the knowledgeable car people to recommend how often I should get the oil changed. The tires were rotated 2300 miles ago in 2019.

Thanks!

 

[ERD50]

I have a specific question.

I drive a 2014 Toyota Corolla. It takes synthetic oil. It gets parked in the garage. My last oil change was 1 year ago and I've driven 1200 miles.

Because of my part time job as a school crossing guard I drive a very short commute and then sit in my parked car running the engine for most of an hour. In the winter it's to run the heater, in the hot weather it's to run the A/C. If it's nice out I don't run the engine, I just open the windows

So I have very LOW mileage but the engine runs for almost an hour, twice a day.

I'd like all the knowledgeable car people to recommend how often I should get the oil changed. The tires were rotated 2300 miles ago in 2019.

Thanks!

Idling like that is generally considered bad for the engine/oil. But if it has warmed up, maybe not so bad? I dunno.

At any rate, your manual probably says to change the oil at one year regardless of mileage, so you might just want to do that.

You might also consider getting your oil tested. I don't know if the cheap DIY kits are any good. I know the lab services are worth it for large trucks that take several gallons of oil, but probably not cost effective for a 5 quart car oils change.

-ERD50

 

[ExFlyBoy5]

I understand the issue of no place to work, and maybe just not wanting to do it as it can be messy.
But I've always considered changing the oil, one of the simpler things to do on a car.
Certainly not worth the mechanic rate of $150/hr.

Definitely a YMMV kind of thing, but in the recent past we have had our Toyota oil changed at the dealership for about $25 when we provided the oil and filter.

Idling like that is generally considered bad for the engine/oil. But if it has warmed up, maybe not so bad? I dunno.

At any rate, your manual probably says to change the oil at one year regardless of mileage, so you might just want to do that.

You might also consider getting your oil tested. I don't know if the cheap DIY kits are any good. I know the lab services are worth it for large trucks that take several gallons of oil, but probably not cost effective for a 5 quart car oils change.

-ERD50

I personally wouldn't bother with the oil analysis. It's a 2016 Corolla...using an engine that has been proved over many years. The odds of there being an oil related failure is very, VERY low. There are scores of police vehicles, taxis, etc. that idle most of their lives and don't have oil issues, either.

 

[jim584672]

I have a specific question.

I drive a 2014 Toyota Corolla. It takes synthetic oil. It gets parked in the garage. My last oil change was 1 year ago and I've driven 1200 miles.

Because of my part time job as a school crossing guard I drive a very short commute and then sit in my parked car running the engine for most of an hour. In the winter it's to run the heater, in the hot weather it's to run the A/C. If it's nice out I don't run the engine, I just open the windows

So I have very LOW mileage but the engine runs for almost an hour, twice a day.

I'd like all the knowledgeable car people to recommend how often I should get the oil changed. The tires were rotated 2300 miles ago in 2019.

Thanks!

I wouldn't bother. The oil should be fine, synthetic helps. Maybe another year.

 

[dmpi]

I have a specific question.

I drive a 2014 Toyota Corolla. It takes synthetic oil. It gets parked in the garage. My last oil change was 1 year ago and I've driven 1200 miles.

Because of my part time job as a school crossing guard I drive a very short commute and then sit in my parked car running the engine for most of an hour. In the winter it's to run the heater, in the hot weather it's to run the A/C. If it's nice out I don't run the engine, I just open the windows

So I have very LOW mileage but the engine runs for almost an hour, twice a day.

I'd like all the knowledgeable car people to recommend how often I should get the oil changed. The tires were rotated 2300 miles ago in 2019.

Thanks!

I would pull out the dipstick to ensure: 1) you have enough oil and 2) the oil isn't thick and black. If it looks like new oil or slightly dark I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[RetiredAt55.5]

I agree with ERD50 on the Toyota Corolla question - I'd change it yearly.

Extended idling is considered extreme service.

I go with the mantra - oil changes are cheap insurance for expensive engine repairs.

 

[Mark1]

I agree with ERD50 on the Toyota Corolla question - I'd change it yearly.

Extended idling is considered extreme service.

I go with the mantra - oil changes are cheap insurance for expensive engine repairs.

+1
I look at it this way. Let's assume you work 40 weeks/year and idle for 10 hours a week, then that equates to 400 hours of idling a year. If you assume that the RPM of the engine is somewhat similar to driving 30 miles per hour, then you would have driven the equality of 12,000 miles/year (400 X 30) due to idling. This isn't a perfect calculation, but it does show the magnitude of the wear on the oil.

 

[Koolau]

I understand the issue of no place to work, and maybe just not wanting to do it as it can be messy.
But I've always considered changing the oil, one of the simpler things to do on a car.
Certainly not worth the mechanic rate of $150/hr.

You are right - especially on older cars. I used to do all my own oil changes and lots of other stuff. Now, just reaching the oil filter can be a real pain. At my age, I would likely suffer aches and pains for a couple of days from twisting around under a car - even with the right tools. So, to me it's worth the cost to let a professional do it. YMMV

 

[Music Lover]

I agree with ERD50 on the Toyota Corolla question - I'd change it yearly.

Extended idling is considered extreme service.

I go with the mantra - oil changes are cheap insurance for expensive engine repairs.

+1

Excessive idling is more important than tracking mileage. Idling is considered extreme conditions because most engines won't fully warm up until under load, especially 4 cylinders.

 

[doneat54]

You are right - especially on older cars. I used to do all my own oil changes and lots of other stuff. Now, just reaching the oil filter can be a real pain. At my age, I would likely suffer aches and pains for a couple of days from twisting around under a car - even with the right tools. So, to me it's worth the cost to let a professional do it. YMMV

Lots of manufacturers (VW and Audi for two), are putting the filters on the top of the engine now. And the filters have valves in them so when you unscrew them upright, they don't dump oil. Still have to get to the oil plug underneath however. Some are easier than others.

 

[travelover]

Lots of manufacturers (VW and Audi for two), are putting the filters on the top of the engine now. And the filters have valves in them so when you unscrew them upright, they don't dump oil. Still have to get to the oil plug underneath however. Some are easier than others.

Man, this technology race is just amazing. Who know you could put the filter up top?

 

[jevans04]

Lots of manufacturers (VW and Audi for two), are putting the filters on the top of the engine now. And the filters have valves in them so when you unscrew them upright, they don't dump oil. Still have to get to the oil plug underneath however. Some are easier than others.

The VW/Audi service techs don't drain the oil from the bottom, they suck it out from the top with an extractor.

 

[Sunset]

My Dealership changed the oil supposedly with synthetic (how could I tell anyhow) and then put a sticker on the window to come back for oil change in 5,000 miles.
Synthetic in the manual says 10K.

I emailed them to as if the mechanic had put in regular oil by mistake, they responded that my oil is good for 10K and they put the sticker on as the service manual says to service the vehicle every 5K.

Pretty misleading of them.

 

[Joggernot]

Lots of manufacturers (VW and Audi for two), are putting the filters on the top of the engine now. And the filters have valves in them so when you unscrew them upright, they don't dump oil. Still have to get to the oil plug underneath however. Some are easier than others.

2005 Toyota Tacoma has the filter on top. It still leaks some oil on removal, so they provided a drain hole to direct the oil to the catch pan. I have a Fumoto valve in the oil pan, so just open the valve; drain the oil; replace the filter; and add new oil. A quick and easy job. Truck is up high, so no ramps needed.

 

[Koolau]

My Dealership changed the oil supposedly with synthetic (how could I tell anyhow) and then put a sticker on the window to come back for oil change in 5,000 miles.
Synthetic in the manual says 10K.

I emailed them to as if the mechanic had put in regular oil by mistake, they responded that my oil is good for 10K and they put the sticker on as the service manual says to service the vehicle every 5K.

Pretty misleading of them.

I'm shocked. SHOCKED! YMMV

 

[brett]

I put 4K miles on my 2007 Solara in summer of 2020.

Oil was incredibly clean when I put the car on the road in May 2021. Another 4K miles.

Replace oil light never came.

It will get an oil change next May when it goes back on the road for the summer.

 

[stephenson]

Hmmmm ... on some cars it may not make sense to wait too long - and, it is often hard to find "truth."

Do you recall the lawsuit against Toyota for "oil sludge" in some cars - dates to around late 2000s, I think ... well, we bought a 1999 Camry, with assurances from the owner that oil had been changed.

Hmmm ... so, on changing valve cover gasket that was leaking a bit, we found what the photos show.

The "fix" for Toyota, other than billions to rebuild engines, was apparently to change to synthetics even in low price cars - and, just as apparently, most of the sludge was probably caused by folks not changing their oil - at all - or rarely.

In our case, we carefully chiseled out the "sludge" - think more like coked on oil - hard and gooey and burned - while holding a high powered vacuum cleaner with narrowed nozzle at the very point where we were chiseling. Then we dropped the pan to clean it out - it was pretty bad, but more like jelly in spots.

 

[stephenson]

More photos ...

After chiseling, scrubbing, wiping down with mineral spirits, we buttoned all back up with new filter, and filled with cheapest synthetic from Walmart - ran for 100 miles on first fill, then drained and ran for 2000 miles on second fill. Then changed to Mobil 1 and ran for 5000, then changed and ran for 10000.

Pulled valve cover and all looked pretty darn good - the synthetic obviously helps - as does changing the oil

Son put 125,000 miles on it driving between Northwestern University (music performance) from Virginia, then for several years at his first orchestra in Atlanta.

Sold it to someone and last he heard (four years later), they are still driving it without issue.

 

[foxfirev5]

0W-16 sewing machine oil has solved the sludge problem. But all joking aside even with the thin oil my new RAV4 goes 10k between changes without burning a quart of oil. Something unheard of a few years ago.

 

[Koolau]

^^^^

Reminds me of a guy at w*rk who decided he didn't really need to change his oil because his relatively high-mileage car burned a lot of oil. He just kept adding oil instead of changing (he bragged to us about this money saving tip.) Eventually, he thought maybe he should change the oil - just in case. Upon removing the drain plug, nothing came out. The mechanic stuck a screw driver in, gouging out enough gelled oil to allow the old oil to drain. Said mechanic strongly suggested getting rid of the car. Instead, the guy took the car on his annual trip home to Kansas. He ended up abandoning it in KCKS. This guy actually had a LOT of car stories - this wasn't his worst one. YMMV

 

[Sunset]

More photos ...

After chiseling, scrubbing, wiping down with mineral spirits, we buttoned all back up with new filter, and filled with cheapest synthetic from Walmart - ran for 100 miles on first fill, then drained and ran for 2000 miles on second fill. Then changed to Mobil 1 and ran for 5000, then changed and ran for 10000.

Pulled valve cover and all looked pretty darn good - the synthetic obviously helps - as does changing the oil

Son put 125,000 miles on it driving between Northwestern University (music performance) from Virginia, then for several years at his first orchestra in Atlanta.

Sold it to someone and last he heard (four years later), they are still driving it without issue.

Wow.... that is so amazing to see.
Thanks for posting those photos !

I had read about the stories, DW had a 98 Camry, so I was worried about the sludge issue.

I changed the oil every year at 5K or less, but always wondered if it was building up or not.

We are now at 105K and it's still going strong. Never pulled anything off it to look.

I want her to buy a new car but she is too frugal

 

[oldphd]

I would pull out the dipstick...

This past summer I picked up a 2018 Audi A5 convertible for a fun car, coming off lease to my neighbor with 12K miles and she let me have it for the lease buyout, which was $10K under a trade in offer they had. Really nice couple with some serious family $$$, not sure how much. $10K was not on their radar to mess with buying and selling, and they preferred to let someone they knew get a good deal.

Any way, as I was going over the car to check things I out, I discovered that it doesn't have a dipstick! I'd never heard of that! You check the oil level in the onboard computer... You have to do it just right, after the car is warm, then stopped, and level, and wait a little bit... The skeptic in me says bad things can happen with too much technology, but that's how they do it.