Oil change on very low mileage vehicle

[brett]

In these circumstances (synthetic, and not in warranty), I would feel comfortable for a couple of years - frankly, more important is running the engine long enough to get condensate out of the exhaust, but even those components are less likely to rust, now.

The Europeans run their oil - synthetic - much longer than in the US.

Much of what happens with consumers in the US is driven by marketing, sales needs - not what the science says.

This is exactly what people from the UK and Europe tell me. They are amazed at difference. Especially the differences dealer recommendations for the same vehicles/models.

 

[triangle]

It also depends on how long you want the engine to last. I have heard of people going 50k-75K miles without ever changing the oil before problems are seen. Then there are those who do careful maintenance and perhaps get lucky and approach a million miles on the same engine.

I think most modern vehicles have pretty long oil service intervals. That service cost is a modest part of total maintenance cost and not driven by marketing IMO. If anything the dealer would like to see your 100K+ mile car start consuming a quart of oil every few thousand of miles and increasing, to motivate a new car sale sooner rather than later. That they have a vested interest in your car lasting relatively long, say 150-200K miles but not as long as it could.

 

[stephenson]

I think the marketing aspect is things like oil change businesses putting stickers on your car with 3000 mile intervals and 5000 mile intervals when even the manufacturer change is 6000 or 10000 miles, the commercials for oil changes, the woe-be-unto you if you don’t do these early because it is better for your car - when the science says otherwise.

And, when whole other, better educated populations and even multi-country continents do it differently

 

[street]

I have heard of people just changing oil filter and then add oil what is lost. They just add not change.

 

[ERD50]

In these circumstances (synthetic, and not in warranty), I would feel comfortable for a couple of years - frankly, more important is running the engine long enough to get condensate out of the exhaust, but even those components are less likely to rust, now.

The Europeans run their oil - synthetic - much longer than in the US.

Much of what happens with consumers in the US is driven by marketing, sales needs - not what the science says.

This is exactly what people from the UK and Europe tell me. They are amazed at difference. Especially the differences dealer recommendations for the same vehicles/models.

I was curious, I see these comments, I was unaware of this - but no references.

So I had to look it up. Yes, not just longer intervals, but a different spec on the oil (so it does seem to be science based):

https://www.buygreatoil.com/why-european-vehicles-require-different-oil

https://www.amsoil.com/p/sae-5w-40-fs-synthetic-european-motor-oil-efm/

Premium synthetic formulation designed for the unique demands of European engines. Protects advanced emissions systems. Excellent for both gasoline and diesel engines. Fights sludge for superior engine cleanliness. Outstanding all-season performance. Designed for the extended drain intervals established by European car manufacturers. Excellent for turbochargers.

Some things to research further: I wonder if there are approved (not snake-oil claims) additives for oil - seems like with a good synthetic, you could add back detergents and other additives at one year, and go another year, for low ,mileage cars?

Also, I read that some of the oil minders do an electrical test (dielectric), that correlates to contaminants in the oil. I know you can send oil in for testing, but a simple at home electrical test might be a good check for low mileage cars?

-ERD50

 

[Badger]

I have heard of people just changing oil filter and then add oil what is lost. They just add not change.

I used to do my own oil change, etc. but can't get out from under the car too easily anymore. Some of the old cars would burn a little oil so I would keep an eye on the level and just top them off. However, I always had to drain the oil before removing the filter. Otherwise some oil would spill over the driveway if I removed the filter first.


Cheers!

 

[Chuckanut]

Interesting AMSOil article. But, the claims are vague and that bothers me.

Emphasis added...

While certain American oil products, such as Amsoil, allow for drivers to go longer between oil changes, most do not.

I interpret 'most' as including all the non 100% synthetic oils that are sold as long as they meet most specs. (Or am I wrong?) So, while it may be true as far as it goes, it doesn't go far enough, IMO. I would love to see a comparison between the USA 100% synthetics and the European100% synthetics.

 

[ERD50]

Interesting AMSOil article. But, the claims are vague and that bothers me.

Emphasis added...
I interpret 'most' as including all the non 100% synthetic oils that are sold as long as they meet most specs. (Or am I wrong?) So, while it may be true as far as it goes, it doesn't go far enough, IMO. I would love to see a comparison between the USA 100% synthetics and the European100% synthetics.

I'm pretty sure this is a specific grade/spec associated with the longer life oils. Maybe someone can look at the manuals for similar cars sold in US and Euro, and check the oil spec?

-ERD50

 

[stephenson]

I suspect once one removes the diesel from the discussion, there are minor differences in high quality US spec synthetic be Euro synthetic.

Most newer cars are beginning to spec 0 weight synthetics, as well. Euros had this designation a decade before it started appearing in US engines.

Finally. More and more US vehicles have engines that are more Euro like - few V8s, smaller displacement and turbochargers.

 

[ERD50]

Here's some specifics:

https://www.autoserviceworld.com/carsmagazine/european-oils/

When talking about motor oils, there are two specifications that one needs to understand: API ILSAC and the European ACEA.

....

Total’s Hugues adds that ACEA specifications for the additive packages also need to take into account the longer drain intervals which are at least twice the distance recommended in North America, as well as protecting diesel engine components, “[and] be compatible with particulate filters for passenger cars, which have a big impact with designing an ACEA additive package. This leads to the selection of different components to ensure, for instance, proper dispersant and detergent properties, but also protection of exhaust gas after treatment devices such as the diesel particulate filter.”

“Compared to API specifications, ACEA specifications have more of a focus on low viscosity, stay in grade oils with extended drain intervals which [are] rated for engines meeting Euro IV /Euro V emission requirements, and running under very severe conditions,” adds Antonio Ramos, manager, marketing with Veedol.

-ERD50

 

[indiajust]

I stopped doing annual oil changes 15 years ago when i started using synthetic. I aim for 20k miles or so before i change. As car ages and mileage gets over 200k, it will slowly burn a bit more, so if I am adding regularly for small leaks and such I might never change again, just the filter.

I stopped buying new tires in sets in the 90's. I have lived walking distance to several used tire shops and buy mixed pairs off wrecks. The last time I rotated tires was in the late 80's.

 

[RunningBum]

I just realized today as I was recording the oil change in my records spreadsheet that my 97 Miata has become my low mileage car. Just over 70K vs a little over 80K for my 14 Forester.

 

[Chuckanut]

I have been changing my oil every 6000 miles, except for recently when I took a 4000 mile road trip this summer. I figure that kind of trip is not the one that loads up the oil with contaminants. So I changed it at 10,000 miles. FWIW, I usually change the oils at about 80% of the maximum mileage.


The Toyota recommended 0W-16 oil is almost like water. The Japanese have been using it domestically since the 90's, so I am told. I remember grudgingly changing oil in my Honda and using 10W-40 instead of 20w-40 after a trusted mechanic told me that I was probably doing more harm at start-up with the 20W-40, than I would ever do driving in the summer with 10W-40. How times have changed.

 

[Beachcomber]

I don't think the oil degrades too much from lack of use.

I would block the tires or at least move the car around so you don't get flat spots from sitting.

 

[jeffmete]

I change my vette oil every other year, mainly because I feel guilty! My boat and jet ski are also every other year. Wife’s Chrysler Minivan I change when the light comes on, which is usually around 10,000 miles. I retired from a diesel mfg and we were around 30,000 miles recommendation and actively working on 50!

 

[Texas Proud]

Since my BIL died over 13 years ago this has been an option at least that long...


He had a sailboat with a small diesel... he was planning to travel the world.... he told me about synthetic oil that you could add that you did not have to change... all you did was add additives every year or two and change the filter... do not remember how often though.... well, of course add oil if some burned off...

 

[RetireeRobert]

This thread just triggered me to remind my youngest daughter it's probably time to change the oil in her Toyota Camry. Been 14 to 15 months since she got fresh 100% synthetic oil last time. But her mileage is probably less than 5 or 7 k miles in that time.

 

[FLJim]

$50 oil change debate?

DW's car has never been driven much. It's a 2017 with 23K miles on it. My practice has been to have the oil changed and the tires rotated annually. However, this year she (we) didn't even drive that vehicle 1K miles. Is there any real point in changing the oil, let alone rotating the tires with such low usage? Thinking I'll just go another year and service it then. We could focus on driving it a bit more instead of always taking my car. Plan a trip or two to help get some miles on it.

Does the vehicle have IOLM - Intelligent Oil Life Monitor on it? If so, what does it say? And for $50 why would you NOT change it?

 

[Sunset]

Since my BIL died over 13 years ago this has been an option at least that long...


He had a sailboat with a small diesel... he was planning to travel the world.... he told me about synthetic oil that you could add that you did not have to change... all you did was add additives every year or two and change the filter... do not remember how often though.... well, of course add oil if some burned off...

A sailboat to travel the world is lots of opportunity to spend money, seems changing the oil would be part of that.

 

[2cheap2eat]

Everyone has given solid advice already. Question, are you bot able to drive it a few miles a few times a month? Seems like would be beneficial if stored long time. You may consider just selling it if you don’t really need a 2nd vehicle.

 

[travelover]

A sailboat to travel the world is lots of opportunity to spend money, seems changing the oil would be part of that.

Yea, but you need to wear SCUBA gear to remove the drain plug.

 

[Jerry1]

Does the vehicle have IOLM - Intelligent Oil Life Monitor on it? If so, what does it say? And for $50 why would you NOT change it?

It has a oil monitor, but I don’t know what logic it uses. As for why I would not, that decision has been made. Someone mentioned it, so I looked it up and the manual specifically states to change it every year. It’s still under the power train warranty so I will change it. However, why I won’t change it in the future (post warranty) is that even for just $50, there’s just no reason to do so. I don’t feel that synthetic oil deteriorates at all in one year and under 1K miles (or even several thousand miles). Plus, the miles it is driven are actually a bit longer trips like when DW goes to visit people where we used to live and it’s about 1/2 hour drive each way.

 

[Jerry1]

Quick update on this. The oil life monitor did react to not being reset in over one year. The monitor in the car went to zero percent. Prior to that it was over 90%. Time to get the oil changed.

Correction: I got an OnStar notice that a year had gone by and it showed the monitor at zero. However, when I got in the car, the actual monitor was at 88%. Still getting the oil changed, but I’m surprised that the year was obviously recorded but it didn’t effect the in car monitor.

 

[Sunset]

I went in at the 1 yr point to have my oil changed on my Toyota van, as it's still under an extended warranty (another story).

I had a coupon for $50 , but turns out the van takes 6.5 quarts
They charged for the extra oil, tax , etc,.... and it ended up at $72

The Guy told me normally an oil change for my van is $87 + tax +...

I'll feel like I'm saving $50 when I do my own oil changes next year.

 

[Koolau]

Just realized it's been 2 years since last oil change. LOOKED at oil and it is almost CLEAN! (Yes, I drove it before checking, so it's stirred up.) Of course, in 2 years, I've driven it maybe 4000 miles. Hope to schedule oil change for next week. YMMV