Problems with Spare Tire

TromboneAl

Give me a museum and I'll fill it. (Picasso) Give me a forum ...
Joined
Jun 30, 2006
Messages
12,880
Since my Tesla M3 doesn't come with a spare, I bought one that Tesla forum members say would fit (Hyundai Genesis spare (145/80/18)).

I put it on the rear, and everything seemed to fit fine.

I drove slowly out the driveway, but I heard noises that sounded like some marbles rolling around inside something, or like raindrops hitting the car. Not loud. I immediately aborted the test.

I then considered that perhaps the lug nuts weren't tight enough. I loosened them, raised the car, got them somewhat tight while shifting the wheel around, lowered the car and tightened them as much as I could with my cross lug wrench.

I drove out the driveway and had the same noises.

Any idea what's happening? [-]My theory is that the lug nuts aren't right for that tire, and so it's shifting a little bit as the wheel turns.[/-]*

*I checked and the conical section of the nut matches the conical section of the lug nut hole perfectly.
 
Last edited:
It that rim the same shape and or form as the original rim??
 
On many cars there is a center hole in the wheel and part of the wheel bearing or axle pokes through. If there is a part that pokes through on the Tesla but the wheel hole is too small, then the wheel will not bottom on the brake disk, will just be sort of floating against the wheel bearing. Very bad things could happen. Check the hole diameter in the OEM wheel and the hole diameter in your spare wheel. You should also be able to feel whether the wheel is bottoming solidly or not before you run the lug nuts down.

If this is the issue and the fit is close, you could probably get by opening up the wheel with a die grinder and a carbide burr. Or even a cylindrical grinding wheel chucked into a drill motor, though this will be slow going and may eat grinding wheels.
 
I'd jack the tire off the ground and spin it by hand. It might be rubbing lightly on the brake hardware. You could also roll the tire across the ground and see if something inside is loose.
 
I'd jack the tire off the ground and spin it by hand. It might be rubbing lightly on the brake hardware. You could also roll the tire across the ground and see if something inside is loose.

I did the latter (and shook and bounced it), and it was silent.

My garage floor tilts slightly (on purpose), so I don't want to put the car in neutral.
 
On many cars there is a center hole in the wheel and part of the wheel bearing or axle pokes through. If there is a part that pokes through on the Tesla but the wheel hole is too small, then the wheel will not bottom on the brake disk, will just be sort of floating against the wheel bearing. Very bad things could happen. Check the hole diameter in the OEM wheel and the hole diameter in your spare wheel. You should also be able to feel whether the wheel is bottoming solidly or not before you run the lug nuts down.

If this is the issue and the fit is close, you could probably get by opening up the wheel with a die grinder and a carbide burr. Or even a cylindrical grinding wheel chucked into a drill motor, though this will be slow going and may eat grinding wheels.

Good idea, but the whole on the spare is larger.
 
Super futuristic car and you went out and bought a spare? Lots of cars don’t include spare tires now days. I agree the lugs probably don’t fit the wheel. You shouldn’t be able to move it around the way you described. The wheel should pilot on the hub and the lugs should have conical shape that matches the bolt holes so everything is self centering.
 
Super futuristic car and you went out and bought a spare? Lots of cars don’t include spare tires now days. I agree the lugs probably don’t fit the wheel. You shouldn’t be able to move it around the way you described. The wheel should pilot on the hub and the lugs should have conical shape that matches the bolt holes so everything is self centering.
Wheels are either hub centered or lug centered. If the lug holes and lug nuts are both conical, it should work well enough for a spare.
 
OldShooter;2355215[B said:
]On many cars there is a center hole in the wheel and part of the wheel bearing or axle pokes through. If there is a part that pokes through on the Tesla but the wheel hole is too small, then the wheel will not bottom on the brake disk, will just be sort of floating against the wheel bearing. Very bad things could happen. Check the hole diameter in the OEM wheel and the hole diameter in your spare wheel. You should also be able to feel whether the wheel is bottoming solidly or not before you run the lug nuts down.[/B]

If this is the issue and the fit is close, you could probably get by opening up the wheel with a die grinder and a carbide burr. Or even a cylindrical grinding wheel chucked into a drill motor, though this will be slow going and may eat grinding wheels.
This is why I asked if the that rim is the exact same. ^ this is what can happen if not.
 
Sorry but I don't have time to read the thread but hope it can shed some light on your situation.

https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/mini-spare-for-model-3-hyundai-genesis-18-works.117251/page-4

Here are some highlights.

I got a Hyundai Genesis spare but the lugs holes are slightly less than 14mm. I reamed it out to 5/16 and now it fits. Also I made a jack adapter for the VW/Audi jack by cutting down a streetrays aluminum jack pad.

Gene, Thanks for the great information. I am new to TMC so I hope I am doing this correctly. I am looking at getting a Hyundai Genesis 18". However there seems to be a number of different options (e.g., 10-16, 10-18, etc. HYUNDAI GENESIS SEDAN OEM 18" 135/80/18 DONUT SPARE TIRE). Which one did you purchase and did you have an issue with the 10mm brake rotor bolt?
The specs you mention 10-16 and 10-18 I have no knowledge of. I simply bought on ebay: HYUNDAI GENESIS SEDAN OEM 18" 135/80/18 DONUT SPARE. Maybe someone else can comment.

In regard to the 10mm bolt securing the rotor to the hub, I simply carry a 10mm wrench to remove the bolt should I need to mount the spare. I have been a pro mechanic over 40 years. That 10mm bolt is not necessary, it is simply there for manufacture and service convenience so that if the wheels and calipers are removed, the rotor will not slip off. Once you bolt down a wheel to the hub in which the rotor is sandwiched between hub and wheel, that rotor ain't goin' nowhere! Most cars do not even have a rotor bolt nor screw.
 
Why aren't you buying an actual Tesla OEM wheel/tire? This hardly seems like an area to play around with, especially considering the problems you and others have seen trying to make something else fit.

People are drilling out their wheels and "hoping" they are doing it right? That is, ummm, disturbing?

-ERD50
 
Another issue with spare tires are with the drive axles. If a vehicle has a limited slip drive axle(s), the tires must be the same exact size. If not, you may burn out the limited slip in the differential. I have no idea what Tesla's axles are mechanically like.

Notice how Jeep owners have 5 equal size tires on them? That's why.
 
^ yes that too. I was told that from a machinic.
 
I understand buying a spare.
We are having 1-2 flats per year while only driving 4000 miles per year.
Can you say: what is that construction zone you live in?
 
Another issue with spare tires are with the drive axles. If a vehicle has a limited slip drive axle(s), the tires must be the same exact size. If not, you may burn out the limited slip in the differential. I have no idea what Tesla's axles are mechanically like.

Notice how Jeep owners have 5 equal size tires on them? That's why.

This may be the issue. The spare is 35 mm less in diameter, and someone suggested that the noises I'm hearing are the car trying to resolve that.

Can't believe I wrote "whole" instead of "hole."
 
EVs like a Tesla have a limited slip differential? I need to study about that.
 
Even this wheel/tire is $300.
...

And you're trying to make a $175 wheel fit, and it doesn't? WADR, I think you are being penny-wise pound (safety/time) foolish to not spend the extra $125 for something that is known to work w/o mods. Or even the $500 for OEM if there is any question on the $300 kit.

I just would not even think of messing around trying to make a wheel fit on a brand new car if I wasn't 100% sure that wheel was made for the car.

-ERD50
 
Even this wheel/tire is $300.

You can buy four OEM wheels/tires for $2,000.

For under $300 on tirerack.com, you could buy a full size wheel with tire, that'll let you drive more than 50 miles, at higher speeds, and ride and handle much better/safer than a compact spare. The trade off is it'll take up more space than a space saver.
 
I got curious and looked on the Web about spare tires for Tesla 3. I have not seen anything about a wheel from the Hyundai Genesis, but saw some concerns from Tesla owners about where in the car to keep the tire. One says it does not fit in the frunk (there might be different sizes of tires for the same car), and another guy has some concern about having it loose in the rear trunk. Several worry about the wheel in the frunk violating the design of the crumple zone for safety.

It seems as more and more cars do not come with spare tires, finding a place to secure one is not a trivial task.
 
I did the latter (and shook and bounced it), and it was silent.

My garage floor tilts slightly (on purpose), so I don't want to put the car in neutral.

Put some blocks in front or back of the other wheels and then put it in neutral.
 
I got curious and looked on the Web about spare tires for Tesla 3. I have not seen anything about a wheel from the Hyundai Genesis, but saw some concerns from Tesla owners about where in the car to keep the tire. One says it does not fit in the frunk (there might be different sizes of tires for the same car), and another guy has some concern about having it loose in the rear trunk. Several worry about the wheel in the frunk violating the design of the crumple zone for safety.

It seems as more and more cars do not come with spare tires, finding a place to secure one is not a trivial task.

Yes, it definitely wouldn't fit in the frunk, not even close.

There's plenty of room in the trunk, but, as you say, no tie down. I had a tie down in the Leaf. OTOH, it would have to get through the rear seats to be a hazard in an accident.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom