Rust Proofing a Car

Jerry1

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Has anyone here, especially someone living in the north where they use salt on the roads, had their car/truck rust proofed? I’m thinking about have my truck rust proofed and wondering if it’s worth it. My goal would be to keep the truck at least 15 years without any visible rust.
 
We are far enough north that salt is used on the roads and not far enough north that it is ineffective so our vehicles have seen quite a bit of road salt. My 2003 Acura TSX has no rust. My 2007 Acura CSX (which has 100K additional miles on it) has just a couple of spots of rust bubble in the front of the rear wheel wells that I will have to sand and touch up when the weather warms up. Consumer reports does not recommend rust protection as cars are now built to be very corrosion resistant (many locations that previously would have been rust prone are now plastics) and the practice is 'sold' to increase dealer profits. Looking around, I don't see many 15-20 year old vehicles with visible rust on them.
 
Keep it clean and polished. Garaged if you can. Rinse the inside wheel wells when you're able. Repair scratches or dents quickly. Should last 20 years easy.

Many franchise rustproof shops have gone out of business up here. Not worth the cost and didn't honor their warranty.

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Jerry,

My quick response would be like many - that rustproofing is not needed any longer, and that it might even be detrimental in that it might create small areas that actually collect salt from road treatments.

But, after doing quick skim of various bits online, it appears some folks still support this practice - but, then an added complication arises - whether you mean/want undercoating in addition to rustproofing?

Hmmm ... me? I would forgo both, but work to keep the wheel wells, and underside sprayed off, weather permitting - with a truck this is easier due to easier access.

And, IMMEDIATELY touch up any paint chips! Even on the lower panels!

I lived in coastal Maine for five years in the 70-80s, and know the devastation rust can cause - but, based on my knowledge of current manufacturing methods, and coatings, I'm in the "no longer required," category.
 
I would not buy any add on that the dealer tries to sell when new. However I do believe in an annual undercoating. Every November I have my vehicles undercoated (about $95 for a truck) with fluid film and now an even better product called "back to black. I go to a local Mazda dealer who happens to do it. My 13 year old Tacoma undercarriage still looks very good here in old salty NH.
Also do the same top the Subaru Outback. My mechanic also swears by it and he is under a lot of vehicles.:)
 
We are far enough north that salt is used on the roads and not far enough north that it is ineffective so our vehicles have seen quite a bit of road salt. My 2003 Acura TSX has no rust. My 2007 Acura CSX (which has 100K additional miles on it) has just a couple of spots of rust bubble in the front of the rear wheel wells that I will have to sand and touch up when the weather warms up. Consumer reports does not recommend rust protection as cars are now built to be very corrosion resistant (many locations that previously would have been rust prone are now plastics) and the practice is 'sold' to increase dealer profits. Looking around, I don't see many 15-20 year old vehicles with visible rust on them.

Look at 10-12 year old GM trucks.

I'm also not a believer in rustproofing and spent 18 years as a body shop owner. Keep it clean, touched up, and in the garage.
 
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I haven’t rust proofed my car in thirty years. Wash it a lot in winter with under body rinses.
 
The spray on rubberized coating they used to sell (maybe still do) at first seems great but it develops tiny cracks and then traps salty water between it and the metal body.
The company of course insists on annual touch up sprays to keep the warranty and charges for it.
Then they weasel out of warranty work later, and at most refund the initial application fee, but not the yearly (15 yrs) of sprays which end up costing more than initially.

Many years ago, Consumer report, had an article about homemade oil mixture (thick oil, grease and light oil to spray on a car). I took my car to a place to get it oil sprayed, they even drilled holes in the door to spray oil inside (doors often rust out from inside). That car lasted 15 yrs mostly in Canada without any rust on it.
The spray cost $100 a few decades ago.

When I bought my next car and was up in that same City, I went to the oil spray place but it was out of business.

Now I'm sure people feel spraying oil all over the car underneath is bad, but once it stops dripping the oil coats the metal and really worked for me.
 
What chemicals are used on the roads where you live? Calcium chloride or just salt? Based on corrosion resistance of new cars, I’d forego rustproofing. I’d limit exposure to treated roads and use the underbody spray car wash.
 
Back in the 70s and 80s, oil undercoating was common in our area in Vermont. Then the manufacturers had better anti-corrosion and nobody did it. But then the road departments started using brine rather than salt and it has made a resurgence.

We had a 2005 Chevy Colorado that I had to trade in 2016 because the frame was so rusted that it would not pass state inspection. About the same time we started snowboarding so we haven't applied undercoating because the car sits in the garage all winter.

From what I gather, they don't do oil undercoating anymore and it is more Fluid Film and the like.

If I still wintered in New England I would definitely undercoat my vehicles.
 
The majority of the wheel wells on most newer cars are plastic liners especially around the the front wheels. The salt will not harm the plastic liners. More important is rinsing off the underside to get the salt off brake lines, fuel lines, exhaust system, brackets and the floor pan if it's unibody and the frame if it's a truck.
 
Fluid Film works. Can buy it in gallon sized to be used in sprayers.

I use on saltwater boat trailer (South Carolina). It works and can be self applied.
 
About the same time we started snowboarding so we haven't applied undercoating because the car sits in the garage all winter.

From what I gather, they don't do oil undercoating anymore and it is more Fluid Film and the like.

If I still wintered in New England I would definitely undercoat my vehicles.

Hmmm... maybe I'll try snowboarding in Phoenix the next time I am there. If they can do it in Florida.... :D
 
Back in the 70s and 80s, oil undercoating was common in our area in Vermont. Then the manufacturers had better anti-corrosion and nobody did it. But then the road departments started using brine rather than salt and it has made a resurgence.

We had a 2005 Chevy Colorado that I had to trade in 2016 because the frame was so rusted that it would not pass state inspection. About the same time we started snowboarding so we haven't applied undercoating because the car sits in the garage all winter.

From what I gather, they don't do oil undercoating anymore and it is more Fluid Film and the like.

If I still wintered in New England I would definitely undercoat my vehicles.
Snowbirding... Darn autocorrect!
 
Another vote for Fluid Film or Wool wax. Spray over unprotected steel on the undercarriage. The move from sand to salt for ice treatment results in a watery brine that sprays all over the underside of the vehicle. While a lot of car parts are made from plastic these days, a lot aren't.
 
We live in the North. Salt on the roads. Our 2006 Honda was not rustproofed.

No problems. But....I do take it to the self serve car wash in the winter and give the car a good spray...especially under the wheel wells.

I can remember the days when cars literally rusted into the ground. Only time I have seen this in the past few years is cars parked near the ocean. And then, it seems to me the the body rusts vs the undersides and wheel wells.

I would not pay for rust proofing, I would not pay for diamond coat. Dealer friend told me that the dealership loves to sell that stuff. It is all margins. They take the vehicle to a third party. Then they double the price they paid and pass that to the customer.
 
Fluid Film also works great for getting those tired bathroom vent exhaust motors running again, in situ.
 
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