What's wrong wtih my garage door opener?

[always_learning]

I love mysteries, but this has DH and me stumped.

Our garage door opener (not quite 10 years old -- Liftmaster brand) suddenly stopped working with the remotes. It works fine using the wall button.

The remotes (2 handheld, 1 keypad outside the door, and 2 vehicle-programmed) all stopped working at the same time. It was a 'sliding' decline over about three weeks with random remotes working while others didn't.

This morning, none of the remotes work at all but the wall button still works fine.

One vehicle is outside all the time, one vehicle and one hand-held are kept in the garage, and the spare hand-held is in the house, so weather/temps aren't the cause. Also, the 2 hand-held remotes have fairly new batteries and they are rarely used.

We have had no power outage, temps have been stable (in FL, no extreme cold), the tracks are fine, there is no drag/lubrication trouble, and the sensors are aligned.

Anyone want to take a stab at this? We have googled and googled and can't find anything else to consider.

 

[Luvtoride]

always, My remotes stopped working years ago. I installed a very simple, inexpensive My Q Garage Door device, which works with an App on our phones. It is actually made by Liftmaster and easily integrates with their brands (and others).

In addition, it has other functionalities, including My Key (I think that's what it's called) which allows Amazon deliveries to be placed in the garage.
My favorite NEW feature though is the integration with Tesla. I have now programmed My Q to open my garage door as I drive close (user sets the distance) to my garage, automatically. Additionally, if the garage door is open as I drive away, it will close automatically. This feature works great.
Don't spend too much time trying to solve the remote mystery. Look into the My Q device.

 

[HarveyS]

try unplugging and re-plugging in opener.

 

[Lewis Clark]

Even though the batteries are nearly new, it is still worth checking them with a voltage tester if you have one. Or put in a different set of new batteries.

Also, check that the battery terminals look clean. If they are dirty or corroded, try cleaning them with alcohol and q-tips.

 

[Jerry1]

Did you put a new LED light in the main unit recently? They’re known to disrupt the signal.

Otherwise, I’d guess it’s the receiver in the unit. Not sure how they work, but there must be a receiver in the unit that receives the signal from the remote. It must have gone bad. Not sure if that’s a replaceable part but it’s probably on a control board that is replaceable if you’re inclined.

As Luvtoride indicated, there are wifi switches you could use that would run off an app on your phone, but it’s a pain compared to a functional remote.

 

[Jerry1]

try unplugging and re-plugging in opener.

Always a good step when troubleshooting electronics.

 

[njhowie]

Always a good step when troubleshooting electronics.

 

[MichaelB]

This is not unusual. Definitely turn the system on and off, and then try to forget and re-pair the remotes. If that doesn’t work, Liftmaster makes an antenna extension kit. (here) IIRC the built in antenna looks a little like an AM/FM antenna, just a wire hanging around, and is temperamental.

 

[Qs Laptop]

Make sure the electronic eyes that operate the shutoff safety feature are working and in alignment. That is, assuming your Liftmaster unit has these devices (most garage door openers have them.)

This link is the first thing that came up on a search.
https://ddmgaragedoors.com/blog/2020/10/02/troubleshooting-photo-eyes-on-a-liftmaster-operator/

 

[OldShooter]

The radio receiver in the opener itself is the common element here. All the remotes talk to it, but the wall button is almost certainly wired direct. Strong odds are that the receiver has failed, but you could get lucky and find that its wire receiving antenna has somehow become detached.

 

[always_learning]

Well, since i posted my question, one remote decided to work.

It looks like the remotes work, but the door isn't responding. We can see lights blinking in the motor when any of them are pushed, so something just isn't talking to something else inside the unit. And I forgot to mention, it's mostly in the morning, with random working on random remotes throughout the day.

always, My remotes stopped working years ago. I installed a very simple, inexpensive My Q Garage Door device, which works with an App on our phones. It is actually made by Liftmaster and easily integrates with their brands (and others).

I'll have to look at this as it's intriguing.

try unplugging and re-plugging in opener.

I forgot to mention we did that.

Even though the batteries are nearly new, it is still worth checking them with a voltage tester if you have one. Or put in a different set of new batteries.

Also, check that the battery terminals look clean. If they are dirty or corroded, try cleaning them with alcohol and q-tips.

Normally, that would have been our first thing to try, but the built-in ones in our cars don't work, either. We tried the hand-held ones after the cars wouldn't close the door.

Did you put a new LED light in the main unit recently? They’re known to disrupt the signal.

Otherwise, I’d guess it’s the receiver in the unit. Not sure how they work, but there must be a receiver in the unit that receives the signal from the remote. It must have gone bad. Not sure if that’s a replaceable part but it’s probably on a control board that is replaceable if you’re inclined.

As Luvtoride indicated, there are wifi switches you could use that would run off an app on your phone, but it’s a pain compared to a functional remote.

No LED bulb. I forgot to mention that, too. That came up in my search and was the first thing I checked since we did change the bulb over the summer.

We are beginning to wonder about a relay of sorts. We can see a blinking light inside the motor when any of the remotes are tried, so something isn't talking to something else in motor/on the board.

This is not unusual. Definitely turn the system on and off, and then try to forget and re-pair the remotes. If that doesn’t work, Liftmaster makes an antenna extension kit. (here) IIRC the built in antenna looks a little like an AM/FM antenna, just a wire hanging around, and is temperamental.

Wow, really? We must have been lucky, because in 30 years of garage door ownership this is a first for us. I'd be happy to not deal with this for another 30!

DH is trying the deprogramming/reprogramming now.

I don't think an extension kit will help as we've taken the hand-held remote and pushed them while on a ladder peering into the motor to check for blinking lights, so distance isn't an issue. The unit is definitely receiving a signal.

We'll have to wait until morning to see the reprogramming works, though, as that's when we notice everything but the main wall button just seems dead. As of now, it *looks* like they are all working, but we'll see what the new day brings.

Sadly, our unit has been discontinued and only used boards are out there for double the price of what it was new, so if the reprogramming doesn't work, it looks like we'll end up with a new unit... blech.

 

[FLSUnFIRE]

Mine started acting up... pretty sure I posted somewhere here. Interference from something. I put a temporary extension on my antenna -just a scrap of thin insulated wire that I attached to the factory antenna wire with a wire nut and draped under the ceiling of the garage on whatever protuberance was already there (a hook I think). Maybe I'll get around to something more elegant but if it ain't broke......

 

[always_learning]

Make sure the electronic eyes that operate the shutoff safety feature are working and in alignment. That is, assuming your Liftmaster unit has these devices (most garage door openers have them.)

This link is the first thing that came up on a search.
https://ddmgaragedoors.com/blog/2020/10/02/troubleshooting-photo-eyes-on-a-liftmaster-operator/

That was the first thing we checked.

Sadly, it was not that easy of a fix...

The radio receiver in the opener itself is the common element here. All the remotes talk to it, but the wall button is almost certainly wired direct. Strong odds are that the receiver has failed, but you could get lucky and find that its wire receiving antenna has somehow become detached.

The receiver is what we have now honed in on, but it seems it would completely fail as opposed to acting like a teen in a bad mood and talking only when it felt like it.




For now, we'll wait and see if the reprogramming worked. I'll report back sometime tomorrow!

Thanks everyone for the suggestions!

 

[target2019]

Check around the door sensors?

Long press on the purple Learn button to reprogram. Brief press on the purple button to add more Open buttons.

I'd concentrate on one opener and one button to diagnose, make sure it works down the driveway.

 

[Piper20]

I would unplug remove the cover and look for a critter, spider, stink bug etc. and any loose wires.

 

[cbo111]

Our 8-yr old Liftmaster displayed most of the same symptoms as yours. I tried everything including replacing the exterior key pad. And, like you, I could still use the hardwired button in the garage. After talking with Liftmaster customer service a couple times, they recommended either replacing the circuit board or the entire unit. I elected to install a whole new unit (about $200). If you have a ladder, a few hand tools, an extra pair of hands to hold things, this job can be done in a few hours.There are YouTube videos of installs that are pretty useful to make you comfortable. I used an app called BILT. It is referenced in the Liftmaster instructions and is a step-by step guide that requires very little mechanical knowledge. I put BILT on my iPad and start/stopped after each step. As a bonus, modern Liftmaster openers are wifi enabled, much quieter, and your phone can monitor and open/close the door. Very satisfying project to complete.

 

[always_learning]

Our 8-yr old Liftmaster displayed most of the same symptoms as yours. I tried everything including replacing the exterior key pad. And, like you, I could still use the hardwired button in the garage. After talking with Liftmaster customer service a couple times, they recommended either replacing the circuit board or the entire unit. I elected to install a whole new unit (about $200). If you have a ladder, a few hand tools, an extra pair of hands to hold things, this job can be done in a few hours.There are YouTube videos of installs that are pretty useful to make you comfortable. I used an app called BILT. It is referenced in the Liftmaster instructions and is a step-by step guide that requires very little mechanical knowledge. I put BILT on my iPad and start/stopped after each step. As a bonus, modern Liftmaster openers are wifi enabled, much quieter, and your phone can monitor and open/close the door. Very satisfying project to complete.

This is where we are heading if our upcoming repair attempt doesn't work.

I have a sort-of update in my next post.

 

[pacergal]

This happened to our system several years ago. We tried everything,, called the garage door company the installed the whole thing, they walked me through some things....still didn't work.
Ended up going into their store and getting a replacement opener system for free. This one has worked well for several more years.

 

[always_learning]

So, here is the update.

Reprogramming didn't help.

Using "logic board" instead of "mother board", I refined my search and got a hit suggesting it might be the 'big' (35v) capacitor on the logic board. I found a video on YouTube where someone had the same issue and he replaced the capacitor, even though it looked just fine and it solved his problem.

The clue is that the remotes work only when the light on the garage motor has turned off. I tried several times and that's what ours does. That's why the remotes work 'sometimes'... it's only once that light turns off. We hadn't picked up on that before. Even though his board and our board look just fine, he said capacitors can sometimes dry up inside.

I ordered a variety pack of capacitors from Amazon since no stores around us have them in stock, so we'll replace it once it arrives and see if it works.

I'll come back and update at that time --- maybe Tues or Wed, depending on when they arrive.

 

[Sunset]

So, here is the update.

Reprogramming didn't help.

Using "logic board" instead of "mother board", I refined my search and got a hit suggesting it might be the 'big' (35v) capacitor on the logic board. I found a video on YouTube where someone had the same issue and he replaced the capacitor, even though it looked just fine and it solved his problem.

The clue is that the remotes work only when the light on the garage motor has turned off. I tried several times and that's what ours does. That's why the remotes work 'sometimes'... it's only once that light turns off. We hadn't picked up on that before. Even though his board and our board look just fine, he said capacitors can sometimes dry up inside.

I ordered a variety pack of capacitors from Amazon since no stores around us have them in stock, so we'll replace it once it arrives and see if it works.

I'll come back and update at that time --- maybe Tues or Wed, depending on when they arrive.

How interesting.

I'd try taking the light out of the opener and seeing if the remotes work properly. Could be a super easy fix.

 

[always_learning]

This happened to our system several years ago. We tried everything,, called the garage door company the installed the whole thing, they walked me through some things....still didn't work.
Ended up going into their store and getting a replacement opener system for free. This one has worked well for several more years.

I'm afraid this is what we'll end up doing. For now, though, we're going to try replacing a capacitor -- see the update I just posted. I hope it works as I'm not excited about shelling out for a new unit. Kudos to you for getting one for free!

 

[always_learning]

How interesting.

I'd try taking the light out of the opener and seeing if the remotes work properly. Could be a super easy fix.

We tried that, too. We guess that somehow the socket is still receiving info/current even though the light is out -- it's probably the light's timer that's triggering that.

We went through several rounds of opening/closing and waiting for the light to go out and trying various remotes/the car's button and it's definitely somehow connected to that light being on = none of the remotes working. I can't believe we didn't make that connection before now.

I can only imagine what the neighbors think with our door going up & down over and over again.

 

[Dean56]

I have a Liftmaster brand garage door opener and love it. Make sure you haven't accidentally put your unit in Lock Mode thru the keypad. I use the Lock Mode, which prevents any of the remotes from working. I haven't seen anybody mention this yet.

 

[sengsational]

That makes about 12 different devices I've heard of that can be fixed by replacing a capacitor. The list grows longer. You'd think they'd start using longer lasting capacitors. Or not. Maybe they want a limited lifetime.

 

[target2019]

I think the capacitor life dovetails neatly with the company wanting to sell you a new model every ten years.