Whole House Humidifier??

[Pleeplus]

We have been struggling this winter from a serious case of static electricity in our house. At times our dog looks like a he just touched one of those static globes they used to have in science class. In addition we have been burning through lotion in an attempt to keep our skin from drying out, especially my 4 year old son who has actually been breaking out in dry skin rashes.

I was having a conversation with our heating and air conditioning guy and he recommended an Aprilaire whole house flow through humidifier. Apparently the unit connects to your hot water line and utilizes some type of sensor to add moisture to the air when the furnace kicks on? He said it would cost around $500 for the unit including installation.

Does anyone on the forum have a whole house humidifier? Do they work? Is Aprilaire a recognized brand and finally is there any impact on the hot water heater as I am guessing it will need to run more often?

 

[martyb]

Nope, but I'm gonna look into it. I have a really big problem with dry skin also. If it would actually help, I'd gladly spend the $500.

 

[jazz4cash]

We had an Aprilaire unit on our 70's vintage house when we lived in the midwest. It worked well but the technology was not very refined. You had to watch for leaks....ours leaked off and on and I believe it caused the furnace cabinet to rust out. We had hard water and that caused it to get caked up and frequent cleaning was suggested. I would think newer units would overcome some of these issues.

 

[TrvlBug]

Ditto...this would be great for my winter allergies plus DH's extremely dry, cracked skin that rears its ugly head in winter.

 

[Dimsumkid]

Yes, I have an Aprilaire humidifier on the heating unit, it seems to be the most popular name out there (I had an Autoflo unit in another house). It uses cold, not hot water. It's installed using a simple tap into the cold water pipe just like a water line for the fridge. There's a water filter made of plastic with metal mesh that can be cleaned each yr or more frequently if you want with vinegar or you can buy a replacement unit. There's a discharge hose that sends excess water to the house drain. They're not too difficult to install DIY if you have some basic skills (sheet metal cutting, install of a thermostat type controller and connecting electrical wires). As cold as it gets here, I still use a separate humidifier near the bedrooms all the time in the winter.

 

[Animorph]

We use a big console humidifier, which is too small for the whole house but helps quite a bit. It's a bit noisy, so I only run it when my legs start itching. Certainly a humidifier would be good idea and would help.

 

[Pleeplus]

Yes, I have an Aprilaire humidifier on the heating unit, it seems to be the most popular name out there (I had an Autoflo unit in another house). It uses cold, not hot water. It's installed using a simple tap into the cold water pipe just like a water line for the fridge. There's a water filter made of plastic with metal mesh that can be cleaned each yr or more frequently if you want with vinegar or you can buy a replacement unit. There's a discharge hose that sends excess water to the house drain. They're not too difficult to install DIY if you have some basic skills (sheet metal cutting, install of a thermostat type controller and connecting electrical wires). As cold as it gets here, I still use a separate humidifier near the bedrooms all the time in the winter.

Thanks Dimsumkid I am guessing that if you had them in both your houses you feel that they work well?

 

[MichaelB]

Yes, I have an Aprilaire humidifier on the heating unit, it seems to be the most popular name out there (I had an Autoflo unit in another house). It uses cold, not hot water. It's installed using a simple tap into the cold water pipe just like a water line for the fridge. There's a water filter made of plastic with metal mesh that can be cleaned each yr or more frequently if you want with vinegar or you can buy a replacement unit. There's a discharge hose that sends excess water to the house drain. They're not too difficult to install DIY if you have some basic skills (sheet metal cutting, install of a thermostat type controller and connecting electrical wires). As cold as it gets here, I still use a separate humidifier near the bedrooms all the time in the winter.

We do this as well.

 

[steelyman]

We do this as well.

I should too. I'm starting to look like a lizard up here.

 

[Dimsumkid]

Thanks Dimsumkid I am guessing that if you had them in both your houses you feel that they work well?

Yes, I would purchase either one but I know the Aprilaire units cost more. It's really dry here, so when the temps get low, the air has trouble keeping moisture. As long as you do minimum annual maintenance/cleaning, you should be fine.

 

[ERhoosier]

We got a whole-house unit a couple yrs ago & it made a notable difference. Dimsumkid describes things pretty well.

 

[ERD50]

I highly, and I mean HIGHLY recommend you get one.

We have had one in our last two homes (10 years in the first home, 20+ in this one). If I moved into a home here in the Midwest without one, I would immediately have one added. If ours broke, I would replace it w/o a second thought.

Ours, in 30 years have been almost problem free. The first was AprilAire (the standard) the current one (in when we moved here) is some off-brand, bit is fine. The beauty is, that water drains through, it does not get stagnant, and the constant flow helps keep mineral build up to a minimum.

We have a humidistat (like thermostat but senses humidity) near the thermostat. Pretty much set it and forget it, sometimes I need to turn it lower if the windows are steaming up, or we get condensation on a cold wall. I generally keep it just high enough to keep from getting static shocks anywhere, and that seems pretty comfortable.

I even stopped doing the annual filter cleaning about 15 years ago. So even though the filter media has deposits on it, so what, the water still trickles over it, and the air still flows. I just left it alone. Last year, the filter basically disintegrated, I just found a paper element at Menards, and cut it to fit.

Ad to re-iterate others, they should be hooked to the cold line. Our first was hooked to the hot, the installer said it would work better. But it has no trouble keeping up with cold, and I think the manual specifies cold, so go cold.

While you could DIY cheaper, $500 isn't a bad price, and I'm a cheap skate. I think they run ~ $200, and installation isn't hard, but it isn't a cakewalk either.

I really can't say it strongly enough, based on your symptoms, this is perfect for you. Get one, get it now. After a week, you won't believe you even questioned it.

I don't think I can add anything. Just do it! This isn't an 'it depends' thing - just do it! There are few things I could recommend so strongly.

-ERD50

 

[Dimsumkid]

I should mention if there is a downside, I don't like that water keeps flowing into the unit and into the drain (and sump pump for me). So if you're paying for metered water, you will be dumping excess water as long as the heat is on. As an alternative, there's plug in whole house or console humidifiers (hold around 10+ gal and has wheels) that I used to use that would do the trick too. I think Bemis and Essick still make them, I used to have an old Sunbeam unit. It would cost much less than installing an HVAC Aprilaire unit.

 

[RunningBum]

I have one, and love it. Mine also is fed from the cold water line. Basically a box with about a 6 inch diameter wheel that dips into a pan of water and sits right at the start of the duct work by the furnace to feed moisture into the system. I empty and clean the pan at the end of winter and turn off the water, and turn it back on in late fall, and probably should've replaced the wheel filter before last year, but that's all I've had to do.

 

[ERD50]

We had an Aprilaire unit on our 70's vintage house when we lived in the midwest. It worked well but the technology was not very refined. You had to watch for leaks....ours leaked off and on and I believe it caused the furnace cabinet to rust out. We had hard water and that caused it to get caked up and frequent cleaning was suggested. I would think newer units would overcome some of these issues.

I can't imagine why you'd have leaks. There isn't much 'technology' in these things, and I don't think they've changed much. Basically a box that holds the media, a solenoid valve to shut the water on/off as needed, a drain, and a humidistat tied into the circuit so it only runs when the furnace runs and humidity is low.

We were on softened water, so that probably greatly reduced mineral buildup. Maybe the mineral build up on yours led to clogged drain holes, and then it overflowed?

-ERD50

 

[ERD50]

I should mention if there is a downside, I don't like that water keeps flowing into the unit and into the drain (and sump pump for me). So if you're paying for metered water, you will be dumping excess water as long as the heat is on.

Yes, but it is just a trickle, and it isn't on all the time the furnace is on, just when the humidistat also senses low humidity. I can't tell you how much ours runs, no easy way to monitor it, but I can hear a slight buzz from the solenoid when I walk by the running furnace, and it seems to be off more than it is on. I'm betting the water cost is far below the cost of lotions and such, and whatever cost you can assign to rashes and discomfort.

As an alternative, there's plug in whole house or console humidifiers (hold around 10+ gal and has wheels) that I used to use that would do the trick too. I think Bemis and Essick still make them, I used to have an old Sunbeam unit. It would cost much less than installing an HVAC Aprilaire unit.

Yes, but then you have the stagnant water (possible bacteria mold problems) and mineral build up. As the water evaporates, all the minerals get left behind to build up over time. The constant water trickle in the AprilAire types is such an advantage - it is constantly flushing everything with a little fresh water. It drains, and probably dries out between cycles, so bacteria don't have a chance to take hold. You really can't beat that, IMO.

-ERD50

 

[Texas Proud]

I cannot do it at our current house.... but in our old house we had a flat bottom on the return air....

I would place a bucket of water there and let the airflow do its magic... worked well enough for me...

 

[Dimsumkid]

Yes, but then you have the stagnant water (possible bacteria mold problems) and mineral build up. As the water evaporates, all the minerals get left behind to build up over time. The constant water trickle in the AprilAire types is such an advantage - it is constantly flushing everything with a little fresh water. It drains, and probably dries out between cycles, so bacteria don't have a chance to take hold. You really can't beat that, IMO.

-ERD50

I used the bacteriostat solution ($3-4 a bottle, lasts several yrs) that you add a small capful to the humidifier water to keep that from happening. Mineral build up maintenance is needed in either unit. If cost is a factor, it's $130 for a console humidifier vs. $500+ for installing an Aprilaire HVAC unit.

Funny, the weather guy mentioned hanging a damp towel somewhere in the bedroom to add humidity to the air last night!

 

[HFWR]

I use a portable unit. Bit of a pita to keep filled, but works.

 

[Walt34]

I've had whole-house humidifiers in all previous houses and this one as well. Highly recommended. They don't use enough water to make a noticeable difference in your water/sewer use.

Unfortunately in this house there isn't room on the hot air side of the plenum to install it there so it's on the cold air return which reduces effectiveness considerably. But it still helps.

 

[Pleeplus]

I ended up pulling the trigger on this and will get it installed tomorrow. I was able to get a cash discount of just under $500 installed. Keeping my fingers crossed that it works.

 

[MRG]

WE have an Aprilaire in this house and had one in our last home. Best one made, IMHO.
MRG

 

[imoldernu]

Much to know about humidity that can help with the decision to install a humidifier. Depending on where you live, and the area's "average normal" relative humidity, the comfort levels may not require additional humidity. On an analog weather station, that has a thermometer, barometer and hygrometer (humidity measure), optimum comfort levels are between 30 and 50, and 20 to 60 are considered reasonable for most people... Outside these levels, health and comfort can be helped by
adding or removing humidity.
Depending on the "air tightness" of the house, inside humidity may be far removed from the relative humidity as seen on your computer weather page or the TV weathercast.
First personal effects of low humidity usually come from having a dry nose and then dry skin and itching. Skin lotion helps.
We use smaller room humidfiers in the bedrooms just to help with sleep comfort. While this has been an extraordinarly cold and dry winter in our area, this is the first time in 10 years that the continuous bad weather has been so dry... enough that the inside humidity has gone below 20... We're going to ride it out and save the $500.

If winter comes, can spring be far behind?

 

[Texas Proud]

Just wanted to add to this thread....

With the bids I am getting on my ducts.... one guy recommended a whole house media filter... said it make a big difference and you only have to change them out every 6 months...

I think that I am going to add that to my work....

 

[ERD50]

Just wanted to add to this thread....

With the bids I am getting on my ducts.... one guy recommended a whole house media filter... said it make a big difference and you only have to change them out every 6 months...

I think that I am going to add that to my work....

While I'm clearly a big fan of them for the climate I'm in, do you really have a humidity problem in your house? As imoldernu points out, dry skin, static electricity are good signs of a problem.

We're doing a lot more heating here in N IL (especially this year, brrrrrrrr!), and it actually took a while into the season before ours started kicking in.

-ERD50