Used cars, does the math work?

What I found, was that the car I wanted to purchase only cost about 7-8% less per used year... leaving me scratching my head thinking why on earth I'd opt to save just 15% of the cost of the car in order to get something that is two years old with 30K miles on it. The math almost worked out as thought the user car was more expensive (odd huh?) when I looked at keeping it till it was aged 10 years or 150,000 miles.

I chalked this up to the extreme discounts car manufacturers give on the trailing end of new model years (I was buying a 2015 car in September of 2015).

If you're locked into a particular car, maybe.

But even with end-of-year new car discounts figured in, certain models depreciate so much in the first couple of years that getting a used one will save you a lot more.
 
And I've seen 2015/2016 Sonatas on sale in the paper recently for $13k with less than 40k miles on them. These are $20k+ cars, still under warranty.

You can't beat that kind of deal on cars that depreciate a lot in the first couple of years. Prius is another car with heavy depreciation because of cheap gas. There is a tradeoff, sure, but you can save a TON of money on recent used cars if you're willing to shop around and not be obsessed on make/model (at least here in the ATL, that is).

New does not make more sense, financially speaking (in general). But I can understand why folks want to spend the extra for peace of mind and new car smell.

I owned a Sonata for 12 yrs. It was a good car and worth the money. I bought it new in 2003. I think second hand buyers get the original remaining warranty limited to 5yrs instead of 10 years.
 
If you're locked into a particular car, maybe.

But even with end-of-year new car discounts figured in, certain models depreciate so much in the first couple of years that getting a used one will save you a lot more.

Certainly depends on the model and features...

In my case the 2013 version of the car I wanted was built with a turbo (which I viewed as a negative, and was glad they removed it from the 2015 model... it's an expensive part to replace and is so bad on the engine when you're planning to drive for 10 years or more), and I think for some reason, having the turbo in the car was more valuable to people... maybe that's why the 2013 prices were so inflated (in my view)

Anyway, other then that, the interior was very much the same, but the 2015 model did have some improvements in technology (plus again).

A used 2013 version of this car was $29,000 from lots (around $27,500 private seller)
The MRSP of the new 2015 was $35,900... but because it was end of the production year and I was using USAA car buying service, I was able to get it for $31,750 (below invoice)

So in this case it didn't seem to make sense to get a two year old model in order to save $2,750... now if it had saved $6,900 that may have been worth considering.

Always worthwhile to do the calculations :)
 
I bought a CPO Audi in 05' and kept it until 15'. Great car but the depreciation in the first few years was astounding. It all worked out though because of time. I traded it in for a very good price on a VW TDI Sportwagen. That was July 15'.

So in Sep 15' the Dieselgate story broke which created a crazy a year lol. Long story short, I wouldn't mind keeping it for the long term but my wife (dispises) the car. Bottom line, $33k spent, $32k coming back, $16k loan, $16k equity.

Going to get by for a while with her car then maybe grab a decent used vehicle with the $16k.

To add more to this sad story, a deer ran in front of the VW 2 days ago. Probably $2k damage. It might not matter as the EPA settlement dictates the car is to be scrapped. In other words, as long as it drives to the VW lot on its own power it probably doesn't matter... We'll see.
 
I think it really comes down to a combination of how long you plan to keep the car, how many miles you plan to put on it, the make/model that you are buying, the mileage on a used car, and finally the 'deal'.

Not certain that there are any hard and fast rules. And it can change if the price of gas changes significantly.
 
Definitely, there's a lot of variation between models. Trucks are a perfect example - I'm in the market for one (midsize like Tacoma, Frontier, or Colorado/Canyon) to replace my 15-year old convertible but just can't get past the prices on these ($25k new with any power options, minimum) and the high resale values that keep good ones up near $20k.

My problem here is that I remember paying $12k for a new Frontier 19 years ago, and I know it's silly to compare with prices today because the truck is a lot bigger and has more tech, inflation etc., but there it is.

On the flip side, I can find the 1-2 year old Sonatas I mentioned above for $13k with less than 40k miles on them every day. Truck vs. car, desirable vs. not.
 
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Definitely, there's a lot of variation between models. Trucks are a perfect example - I'm in the market for one (midsize like Tacoma, Frontier, or Colorado/Canyon) to replace my 15-year old convertible but just can't get past the prices on these ($25k new with any power options, minimum) and the high resale values that keep good ones up near $20k.

My problem here is that I remember paying $12k for a new Frontier 19 years ago, and I know it's silly to compare with prices today because the truck is a lot bigger and has more tech, inflation etc., but there it is.

On the flip side, I can find the 1-2 year old Sonatas I mentioned above for $13k with less than 40k miles on them every day. Truck vs. car, desirable vs. not.

I'm looking at trucks also and the prices are out of sight. Tons of them here in Texas (state bird here - haha). I'm thinking I can always rent or borrow a truck if I need one that bad and just drive a cheap 2 year old used car with low miles. My DW's Sanata Fe has hauled lumber, concrete blocks, appliances, etc.
 
I'm looking at trucks also and the prices are out of sight. Tons of them here in Texas (state bird here - haha). I'm thinking I can always rent or borrow a truck if I need one that bad and just drive a cheap 2 year old used car with low miles. My DW's Sanata Fe has hauled lumber, concrete blocks, appliances, etc.
I've mentioned this before re owning a truck, but my little folding Harbor Freight trailer works great for hauling light stuff and it folds up and stands in the corner of the garage.

1195 lb. Capacity 48 in. x 96 in. Heavy Duty Folding Trailer
 
We love our 1996 GMC Savana. It's a great little camper, it hauls and tows stuff, and it's fine as a daily driver if one of us is using the car. Not fashionable of course, but fine. We've made so many great memories in that van, many awesome road trips and windsurfing and hunting adventures, etc...and that's all right with me. ;)
 
Definitely, there's a lot of variation between models. Trucks are a perfect example - I'm in the market for one (midsize like Tacoma, Frontier, or Colorado/Canyon) to replace my 15-year old convertible but just can't get past the prices on these ($25k new with any power options, minimum) and the high resale values that keep good ones up near $20k.

My problem here is that I remember paying $12k for a new Frontier 19 years ago, and I know it's silly to compare with prices today because the truck is a lot bigger and has more tech, inflation etc., but there it is.

On the flip side, I can find the 1-2 year old Sonatas I mentioned above for $13k with less than 40k miles on them every day. Truck vs. car, desirable vs. not.

I bit the bullet and ordered a GMC Canyon back in May. I love it. I was sort of waiting for the Ridgeline but had to move quickly because my 2005 Colorado would not pass inspection.

If you can forgo 4WD and a crew cab then you can find some pretty good deals on a basic truck... $22k of a base SL Canyon with RWD and extended cab.
 
We just got a Toyota Sienna XLE, 2013, 78k miles for $17.5k. Owned by a company prior and is super clean and loaded. I'll take a chance on the Toyota as our other one is 13 years old and we can't kill it. Still have all original light bulbs and headlights.

Btw, their no negotiated price online was $21k...
 
I bit the bullet and ordered a GMC Canyon back in May. I love it. I was sort of waiting for the Ridgeline but had to move quickly because my 2005 Colorado would not pass inspection.

If you can forgo 4WD and a crew cab then you can find some pretty good deals on a basic truck... $22k of a base SL Canyon with RWD and extended cab.

I priced out the 2017 Canyon extended cab (middle trim) online with the 6 speed auto trans, 4 cyl engine, convenience package and destination charge for a shade over $26K. Now to go see one in person. It will be interesting to see how much off that price the dealer is willing to go.
 
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I priced out the 2017 Canyon extended cab (middle trim) online with the 6 speed auto trans, 4 cyl engine, convenience package and destination charge for a shade over $26K. Now to go see one in person. It will be interesting to see how much off that price the dealer is willing to go.
I found Truecar to be a useful resource to see actual prices paid, two years ago when I bought a CRV.
 
I found Truecar to be a useful resource to see actual prices paid, two years ago when I bought a CRV.

I'll have a look at that, but they get paid by the auto industry so I'm not sure you see all the purchase prices. A local dealer is advertising $2900 off MSRP on a 2016 Canyon. Maybe I'll take a ride over there to have a look. I have not test driven one and always had full size pickups.
 
I'll have a look at that, but they get paid by the auto industry so I'm not sure you see all the purchase prices. A local dealer is advertising $2900 off MSRP on a 2016 Canyon. Maybe I'll take a ride over there to have a look. I have not test driven one and always had full size pickups.
You can also get a free quote through Costco. It might not be the rock bottom price, but it is a hassle free way to get a discount and to gauge where the dealer might go in a harder negotiation.
 
You can also get a free quote through Costco. It might not be the rock bottom price, but it is a hassle free way to get a discount and to gauge where the dealer might go in a harder negotiation.

Just initiated that and spoke with a dealer sales guy. He's trying to sell me a 2016 leftover, but I want a price on a 2017. I sent him a build list and MSRP price off the GMC site for him to work from. Let's see what happens. Also, Costco is giving members a $700 cash card if you buy a GM program vehicle by 1/3/17.
 
Yeah you have to be careful with Truecar - they started out as an independent price reporting service but the dealers got mad and sued them until they cried uncle and started sending leads to those same dealers. So now they essentially work for the dealers.
 
I am pretty surprised both by the variety and quality of the advice here. From a financial perspective, it makes far more sense to buy used, all factors held equal. This is purely because depreciation can't fall that far if you don't pay that much. And because you buy used, you are much more likely to pay it off earlier and incur less interest expense on a loan. Additionally, insurance, registration, annual fees, repairs, are all way less.

But people are not financially rational when it comes to cars. They will pay an extra $10K, so they can minimize their chances of a $150 repair once a year. They will also pay $20K more just to justify the car of their dreams. We recently had friends who bought a jeep grand cherokee (Weight of 4,800 lbs, V6, mpg 19/26) trade in a 1.5 year old jetta GLI (weight 3,200 lbs, mpg 24/33) because they claimed it got better gas mileage....not sure how the math works on that ;)

And Unless you are buying a high end german sedan, repairs are just not that expensive. I currently own a german hot hatch which costs my about $300 in annual maintenance, of which $120 is oil changes which I do myself

What I would look for if I wanted to minimize my driving expenses:
1) Highly reliable model from Toyota, Lexus, Honda, small by usable form factor, hatch, small sedan
2) Service History
3) Low operating cost model......high mpg. Honda civic, accord, fit, insight. Toyota Prius, Corolla. VW TDI, Golf (Just talk to an owner about how much they love this car), Ford fiesta
4) Less than 100,000 miles, but doesn't have to be much
5) Around $10K......you can probably resell it after 50K for $5K, or 100K for $3K
6) In demand model....will hold resale better

people are just making their decision on what car they want, and then coming up with some crazy financial justification post purchase that the car salesman probably planted in their head. People believe anything you tell them about cars

End of rant
 
From a financial perspective, it makes far more sense to buy used, all factors held equal. This is purely because depreciation can't fall that far if you don't pay that much.

There are other factors than depreciation.

The last two times I seriously investigated buying new vs. used, the price difference was basically the per-mile allowance that the IRS uses minus fuel cost.
So the cost of the used car was the price of new, minus the non-fuel ownership costs -- maintenance, tire wear, brake wear, engine wear, etc. The previous owner paid $20,000 and used up $5000 worth of value, and then you pay $15,000.
That's not a good deal, that's just paying less because you are getting less.
 
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