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Old 06-04-2021, 07:03 AM   #241
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I am fixing to replace our camper fridge... And ticked about it... brand new camper in 2015... fridge was fixed twice and then replaced under warrantee, and the replacement has now failed for the second time... Have waited 2 months for a control board that didn't fix it.
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Old 06-04-2021, 07:55 AM   #242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Palmtree View Post
NW-Bound, I'm sorry to hear that your mini's are slowly leaking but I am glad to hear that R-410a is available for purchase. As my unit has only been installed and I have no idea if it is also slowly leaking, I might go ahead and buy a supply of it, just it case it's suddenly outlawed. Also, if you do try the FlareSeal, please let me know what you think. I used NyLog but the seal seems like it would be a better solution for leaking connections.

I also used Nylog Blue on all the flare connections when installing. And as mentioned earlier, I pulled vacuum down to 50 micron Hg, and it held for several hours. That was still not good enough!

I suspect that good sealing under vacuum does not guarantee sealing under high pressure. The atmospheric pressure is less than 15 psi, and it presses against the seal to make it tighter. On the other hand the pressure of the refrigerant is hugely higher, and it presses outward on the seal to open it up.

How high is the operating pressure? For cars, I knew that R-134a ACs run at a much higher pressure than R-12, but I never worked with even the old R-22 residential systems.

It was eye opening for me, as I never had an R-410a system before. When I hooked up the gauge to the larger minisplit that was left running because it was still partially cooling, I saw that the low-side pressure was 50 psi. I recharged to bring it up to 110 psi, which is on the low side of operating range.

On the smaller minisplit that was not cooling at all and turned off, I saw 250 psi when I first hooked up the gauge. It dropped down to 25 psi when I turned on the AC. I also recharged it to 110 psi.

The minisplits had no accessible ports on the high-side pressure. It would be higher than 400 psi when working. That's horrendous.

If I open the connections up and install the FlareSeals, I will still put some Nylog Blue on the shoulder of the flared copper tubing, and also on the threads to serve as a lubricant to ease the tightening.

By the way, the discharged air of the AC is now in the low 50F. And I just checked the status of my solar lithium battery. It still has juice after running the ACs overnight. And one of the fridges, and some other appliances too. That is more like it.

PS. FlareSeals are expensive. A kit of 4 seals for one system costs $15. It is however worth it, considering the cost of refrigerant and the hassle.

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Old 06-04-2021, 08:47 AM   #243
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The tail wheel bearings failed on my tractor... So I bought a replacement hub assembly for $22 on-line and got it in the mail in less than a week... I was actually surprised it was so cheap! It took me about 20 minutes to change it out and I was on my way.


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Old 06-04-2021, 10:37 AM   #244
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Took my sons car for front end alignment...groupon coupon...they said they could not do it because I needed a new tie rod arm end on the driver's side and a new wheel bearing on the passenger side. They did offer to do the work for me for around $800. Said I will comeback for my paid for alignment in a couple of weeks.

Tie rod end was around $20. Ended up buying one for the other side also , as I messed up the threads getting it out. Real easy repair. Indeed, the tie rod end on the driver side was quite loose.

Wheel Bearing passenger side - Just went with the whole knuckle because I did not want to mess with getting the bearing out and putting the new one in. New knuckle was $110 (wheel bearing would have been around $25). There was a tiny amount of play in the wheel bearing...not sure if it should have prevented the alignment but so be it.

Job took me a few hours total. Total cost was $150 vs. quote of $800.

Took it back and got the front end aligned.
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Old 06-04-2021, 03:47 PM   #245
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...
Interesting about the mini-split refrigerant saga. Do they require a cert for you to do your own refrigerant work, or is that just for R-22?

My repair continues... the composite is late. Home Depot just shrugs. But I only finished the steel cables today, a week after the deck boards were to be delivered.

I bought this crimping tool, and it's my least favorite thing. I can give it everything I have, and have a complete crimp, or it can be insufficient. I've taken to measuring the gap every time. Finally done, though. No need to go to the gym for hand/arm strength.
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Old 06-04-2021, 03:49 PM   #246
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^^^ R-134a for cars and R-410a for home ACs are free for purchase by anyone.
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Old 06-04-2021, 09:11 PM   #247
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The wife's Nissan Rogue drain line from the sunroof clogged, causing water to drain in the cabin. Got a piece of stiff clothesline and rodded it out about 3 ft. Not enough. Got the air hose out, lowered the regulated pressure down to 40 psi then blew the rest of the clog out.
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Old 06-05-2021, 07:48 AM   #248
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Originally Posted by Sniggle View Post
Took my sons car for front end alignment...groupon coupon...they said they could not do it because I needed a new tie rod arm end on the driver's side and a new wheel bearing on the passenger side. They did offer to do the work for me for around $800. Said I will comeback for my paid for alignment in a couple of weeks.

Tie rod end was around $20. Ended up buying one for the other side also , as I messed up the threads getting it out. Real easy repair. Indeed, the tie rod end on the driver side was quite loose.

Wheel Bearing passenger side - Just went with the whole knuckle because I did not want to mess with getting the bearing out and putting the new one in. New knuckle was $110 (wheel bearing would have been around $25). There was a tiny amount of play in the wheel bearing...not sure if it should have prevented the alignment but so be it.

Job took me a few hours total. Total cost was $150 vs. quote of $800.

Took it back and got the front end aligned.
Congratulations! Great save!
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Old 06-05-2021, 11:44 AM   #249
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........
Job took me a few hours total. Total cost was $150 vs. quote of $800.

Took it back and got the front end aligned.
I've found the same thing - I can buy assemblies a lot cheaper than pay someone to replace individual parts - like whole strut assemblies, for example. Plus, the markup on the parts is obscene at the repair shops, in addition to the labor charges. And, the parts at independent shops are generally not even OEM quality.
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Old 06-21-2021, 04:16 PM   #250
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Originally Posted by Palmtree View Post
NW-Bound, I'm sorry to hear that your mini's are slowly leaking but I am glad to hear that R-410a is available for purchase. As my unit has only been installed and I have no idea if it is also slowly leaking, I might go ahead and buy a supply of it, just it case it's suddenly outlawed. Also, if you do try the FlareSeal, please let me know what you think. I used NyLog but the seal seems like it would be a better solution for leaking connections.
Have you bought some R-410a? Did my post cause a run on refrigerant or what? I happened to check the price at the same place I bought mine less than 4 weeks ago, and the 25-lb cylinder for which I paid $179 is now sold for $249.

Maybe it's just inflation. Or perhaps a shortage of refrigerant when people turned on their AC and found it not working too well. AC servicemen may know, based on their business condition.

About FlareSeal, I will wait till fall before I take apart the flare connections to inspect them. I cannot afford to take risk with the ACs now, when I need them to run 24/7.
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Old 06-22-2021, 05:51 AM   #251
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Have you bought some R-410a? I happened to check the price at the same place I bought mine less than 4 weeks ago, and the 25-lb cylinder for which I paid $179 is now sold for $249.

No, but I should have. I looked into it and the price was a little higher at the time. Since I was going out of town for a few days, I thought I'd wait to order it. By the time I did get back, I'd forgotten all about it.
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Old 06-22-2021, 07:49 AM   #252
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My hot water heater went lukewarm, and I assume an element went out.

Went to drain the tank, and silt has stopped up the drain plug. I've got to take the intake pipe off the top, and pump the water out before removing the old element(s).

I'm just hoping to avoid spending $400 on a new hot water heater. I have two 50 gallon tanks the same age.
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Old 06-22-2021, 08:55 AM   #253
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My hot water heater went lukewarm, and I assume an element went out.

Went to drain the tank, and silt has stopped up the drain plug. I've got to take the intake pipe off the top, and pump the water out before removing the old element(s).

I'm just hoping to avoid spending $400 on a new hot water heater. I have two 50 gallon tanks the same age.
Couldn't you run a small hose/wire/drain declogger plastic thing into the drain plug to push the gunk out of the way to drain it ?
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Old 06-22-2021, 09:04 AM   #254
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Originally Posted by Bamaman View Post
My hot water heater went lukewarm, and I assume an element went out.

Went to drain the tank, and silt has stopped up the drain plug. I've got to take the intake pipe off the top, and pump the water out before removing the old element(s).

I'm just hoping to avoid spending $400 on a new hot water heater. I have two 50 gallon tanks the same age.
I cringed when I read this.

A handyman is due here within the next 30 minutes to replace our 11 year old WH and I expect similar problems draining the old one. Didn't ask if he had a pump to do this if needed but it's too late now!
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Old 06-22-2021, 09:16 AM   #255
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I have a simple wood couch table, the kind where the legs slip under the couch so you can pull the table up close to you. Well, after 20 years, one of the legs split where it is attached to the rest of the table. The table was wobbling to the point nothing that will break or spill could be put on it. A little wood glue and a clamp, and the table is stable again. It's not a big deal compared to you guys who overhaul your John Deere tractor transmission in a weekend, but it's a victory for saving money and not adding a fixable useful item to the junk at the dump.
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Old 06-22-2021, 11:58 AM   #256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bamaman View Post
My hot water heater went lukewarm, and I assume an element went out.

Went to drain the tank, and silt has stopped up the drain plug. I've got to take the intake pipe off the top, and pump the water out before removing the old element(s).

I'm just hoping to avoid spending $400 on a new hot water heater. I have two 50 gallon tanks the same age.
Did you try turning the water on to the tank and connecting a hose to the drain so that the tank is pressurized then turn on the drain faucet to help force the silt out. If that works then you can turn off the WH inlet and drain the tank.
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Old 06-22-2021, 06:43 PM   #257
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Today I replaced the crank set and shifter cables on my hybrid bike. Of course that meant I had to adjust the front & rear derailleurs. Checked the chain and it still has some miles to go before it needs to be replaced.

The bike is ten years old and I put a lot of miles on it in recent years. The past couple of years Iíve been learning to do my own maintenance. I enjoy doing it and it saves time & money compared to taking bikes to the shop.
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Old 06-22-2021, 07:17 PM   #258
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Repaired my pool robot cleaner. A Hayward TigerShark. I love how it works but man the quality of the build leaves a bit to be desired. And it's like trying to build a car by buying the original parts - a bit of an expensive repair with components that are way over-priced.
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Old 06-22-2021, 07:48 PM   #259
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Big DIY day for me. I replaced the charge controller on my camper. I got the bright idea of putting an Anderson quick disconnect on the battery cable to make it easier to take out the battery from its cave on the side of the camper. What I forgot to do was to turn off the solar panel connection to the controller. When I disconnected the battery, it fried the controller.

Next, I replaced a door lock set leading from the garage. I wanted the key to be the same as the other locks so I took it apart to re-key it and somehow botched the part where you push in a sleeve to hold the top pins in place and the darn pins went everywhere. After crawling around on my hands and knees for half an hour to find everything, I put it back together and installed the lock in the door. Jack of all trades, master of none.
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Old 06-22-2021, 10:05 PM   #260
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It must be water heater week. Woke up to no hot water this morning. We have a home warranty (don’t ask) so we called them. The company promised they would be out today, but never showed. Calling a real plumber tomorrow.
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