Your recent repair? - 2021 to ?

We just replaced out 20 yr old mattress with one that came in a box.
The Allswell Luxe 12 Medium Firm Hybrid Queen Mattress.

The delivery guy left it on the driveway... no white glove service :)
I used a hand cart to bring it in as it weighs 76 lbs.
Then we put it on the bed and carefully cut away the plastic. It expanded and looks pretty nice.
We let the room air out all day, as I noticed a smell.
 
Gas water heaters do... You push a button repeatedly that fires a piezo sparker while holding down a button that mechanically allows gas to flow to the pilot :)

After the pilot is lit, a super-thermocouple (now called a "thermal battery" because it's output is higher voltage to run the electronics than the age-old millivolt thermocouple and gas valve method) then powers the small electronics board that controls the gas valve. An LED blinks out a fault code, or an OK code. Honeywell is a big maker of them.

The design driver of using a remote ignitor rather than a match held by needle-nosed pliers, is the sealing-up of the burner assembly to try to avoid unexpected conflagration due to possible flammable vapors (gasoline and the like) near the WH.

OK. But the manual piezo sparker is only used to light the pilot, which has to stay lit from then on for normal operation. Not owning a residential gas water heater for many years, I thought it would now operate like the water heater in my RV.

My RV water heater burns propane from the onboard tank. It has no pilot. When its thermostat calls for the burner to be lit, the electronic controller activates the solenoid valve to turn on the gas, while concurrently energizes a sparker with an ignition coil not unlike the spark plug of a combustion engine. If the propane jet fails to light up within a few seconds, as sensed by a thermocouple, everything is turned off, and a red light is turned on on the control panel.

The ammonia absorption fridge works the same way.

Obviously, residential water heaters still need a pilot to stay lit because they have to generate their own electric power for the electronics, instead of relying on the grid power.
 
Hopefully the other old spring will last until next year.. :cool:

I changed both of mine at the same time, as I only wanted to do the job once. For me, the each spring was $35.


We had a door spring let go while under tension. We were in the house and heard a loud bang, after a little investigation found the hook part broke of the spring. I rebent a new hook and that held up at least 10 years until a hurricane damaged the garage and we got a new door.
 
OK. But the manual piezo sparker is only used to light the pilot, which has to stay lit from then on for normal operation. Not owning a residential gas water heater for many years, I thought it would now operate like the water heater in my RV.

My RV water heater burns propane from the onboard tank. It has no pilot. When its thermostat calls for the burner to be lit, the electronic controller activates the solenoid valve to turn on the gas, while concurrently energizes a sparker with an ignition coil not unlike the spark plug of a combustion engine. If the propane jet fails to light up within a few seconds, as sensed by a thermocouple, everything is turned off, and a red light is turned on on the control panel.

The ammonia absorption fridge works the same way.

Obviously, residential water heaters still need a pilot to stay lit because they have to generate their own electric power for the electronics, instead of relying on the grid power.

Depends how old the residential WH is, and the model. The one I bought in 2016 needs to be plugged in and it had constant electronics (LED flashed to show on/idle/errors). It was pretty sealed up, but I could hear a piezo snap-snap-snap when a heat cycle started. I think that actually lit a pilot which then lit the main flame. That WH also needed power for the vent - it had a flapper valve which closed the exhaust when off, to reduce chimney losses.

I've also seen as described though, simply a piezo to replace the match (like some BBQ gas grills). Which is a lot more convenient than a match or lighter.

I was always amazed that a water heater could run w/o external power for the gas valve and sensing and safety. That tiny current from pilot heating the thermocouple has just enough electromagnetic energy to hold in that carefully balanced gas valve. The user provides the initial energy by pressing that button while the thermocouple first warms up.

-ERD50
 
Depends how old the residential WH is, and the model. The one I bought in 2016 needs to be plugged in and it had constant electronics (LED flashed to show on/idle/errors). It was pretty sealed up, but I could hear a piezo snap-snap-snap when a heat cycle started. I think that actually lit a pilot which then lit the main flame. That WH also needed power for the vent - it had a flapper valve which closed the exhaust when off, to reduce chimney losses.-ERD50

I avoid WH like that. Here in TX, HD and Lowes the majority of WH are simple standing-pilot models, no external AC power required. They have a model or two of whiz-bang high-efficiency units, but few people buy them unless their house already has one. What I have seen in the stores is the few people ever looking at one, do not realize that they will have to have a power feed installed (they were NOT DIY people!). If I'm nearby and happen point that out, they lose interest quickly... And I know of no one with gas that has switched to a heat-pump type of WH.

Here, with slab foundations, they seem to hate mechanical-plant type of equipment, leaving very little space for it, as it comes out of living space. Even if it is in a closet off of the garage that is supplied with combustion air from the attic, it still reduces space that could have been devoted to conditioned living space.

I was always amazed that a water heater could run w/o external power for the gas valve and sensing and safety. That tiny current from pilot heating the thermocouple has just enough electromagnetic energy to hold in that carefully balanced gas valve.
Low voltage, but higher current. still need to develop a bit of power. I remember the old octopus hot-air furnaces of my youth, where the thermocouple ran the thermostat, and furnace air flow was gravity-fed. As this was in the cold North, I'm sure you have seen them too years ago. Many were converted from coal, to oil, then to natural gas. Then ripped out for a forced-air furnace to be able to have air conditioning.
 
First time posting to this thread.


Long story but the siding on the side of our garage got damaged a couple of months ago. We hired one contractor and it was taking forever so today we had another one come out. While we're doing the siding, we're also going to replace the door and window on that wall, neither of which has worked for years (old wooden door and window that didn't age well).

Bottom line is that the whole job is going to run 11K. Thanks to ongoing COVID supply issues, it could be 2-3 months before they're able to get all of the necessary supplies but they're hoping that as things get back to normal and people get back to work, stuff will start happening faster.
 
Well our AC almost made it through the Portland heat blast. At 5 PM and 112° the AC quit. I quickly found a bulging capacitor, but like a dumb ass, I had failed to squirrel away an extra because our temperatures are "never that bad". And, of course, all the stores are closed. Fortunately we have a guest suite with its own mini-split so we are moving in there tonight.


Tomorrow, I'll see if I can track down a new capacitor locally and I also ordered one from Amazon, as a spare.
 
DD and the younger DGD visited this past week. Thankfully and sadly they've gone home now. But a couple of days ago DGD (5yo) had a meltdown temper tantrum and amongst other screaming and slamming activities threw a couple of rechargeable night light creatures across the room, at which point they decided not to light up anymore. DW said "oh well, they're really old and can't be replaced", using the time tested guilt method on DGD. This resulted in sobbing and apologies, followed by "can't papa fix them? He can fix anything".

Faced with such a challenge, I took them apart, refitted all the parts, and voilà, they're working again. No big deal, really, but DGD now thinks I'm a wizard. Life is good.
 
"can't papa fix them? He can fix anything".

Our 9YO grandson brings stuff here from moms, dads and his other grandparents for me to fix... he says if Pop can't fix it , it cant be fixed.
 
Depends how old the residential WH is, and the model. The one I bought in 2016 needs to be plugged in and it had constant electronics (LED flashed to show on/idle/errors). It was pretty sealed up, but I could hear a piezo snap-snap-snap when a heat cycle started. I think that actually lit a pilot which then lit the main flame. That WH also needed power for the vent - it had a flapper valve which closed the exhaust when off, to reduce chimney losses.

I've also seen as described though, simply a piezo to replace the match (like some BBQ gas grills). Which is a lot more convenient than a match or lighter.

I was always amazed that a water heater could run w/o external power for the gas valve and sensing and safety. That tiny current from pilot heating the thermocouple has just enough electromagnetic energy to hold in that carefully balanced gas valve. The user provides the initial energy by pressing that button while the thermocouple first warms up.

-ERD50

At the local Scout camp most bathrooms don't have power...they're all fed from a large tank a couple of hundred feet up on the ridge.

But there are tankless water heaters that use the water's flow to power the piezo to light the pilot so the adults at least can have a hot shower...pilot goes out once the water's cut off to save propane (250 gallon tank at each)
 
I have been having some brake problems for a few weeks, but yesterday I got a block from home and was coasting up to a stop light and when I pressed the brake pedal to slow down for the light, nothing!:facepalm: I was lucky there was driveway into lot where a building had been demolished. I turned into the lot and got my self back home using the parking brake as needed.
I bought a new Brake Master Cylinder and installed it this morning.
It works great now. The replacement and cleanup only took 35 minutes.
Oh and $105, plus $6 for a bottle of brake fluid.
 
I have been having some brake problems for a few weeks, but yesterday I got a block from home and was coasting up to a stop light and when I pressed the brake pedal to slow down for the light, nothing!:facepalm: I was lucky there was driveway into lot where a building had been demolished. I turned into the lot and got my self back home using the parking brake as needed.
I bought a new Brake Master Cylinder and installed it this morning.
It works great now. The replacement and cleanup only took 35 minutes.
Oh and $105, plus $6 for a bottle of brake fluid.


Good save!
 
I have been having some brake problems for a few weeks, but yesterday I got a block from home and was coasting up to a stop light and when I pressed the brake pedal to slow down for the light, nothing!:facepalm: I was lucky there was driveway into lot where a building had been demolished. I turned into the lot and got my self back home using the parking brake as needed.
I bought a new Brake Master Cylinder and installed it this morning.
It works great now. The replacement and cleanup only took 35 minutes.
Oh and $105, plus $6 for a bottle of brake fluid.

You drove for weeks with brakes you knew were bad?
:facepalm:
 
...........Tomorrow, I'll see if I can track down a new capacitor locally and I also ordered one from Amazon, as a spare.
I had to go to four electrical. HVAC suppliers to find one to sell to "the public". This, in the worst heat wave in modern history for the area.:mad:

Fortunately, I found a capacitor at an electrical supply shop that is an exact match for the compressor and close in capacitance for the fan. This should tide me until the exact capacitor shows up. The worst is passed and we are only in the low 90's now.
 
In my experience, Grands tend to think anything can be fixed if you just use enough tape. :D

Isn't the secret sauce the right brand of duct tape, instead of a copious amount of it? :D
 
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I had to go to four electrical. HVAC suppliers to find one to sell to "the public". This, in the worst heat wave in modern history for the area.:mad:

Fortunately, I found a capacitor at an electrical supply shop that is an exact match for the compressor and close in capacitance for the fan. This should tide me until the exact capacitor shows up. The worst is passed and we are only in the low 90's now.

I hear ya, bro, about the "available to the public" thing. I have lined up a supply house for a capacitor if and when I need one. But it will be a one day wait. My a/c is still working, as far as I know. I haven't had it on yet this year. Today it is currently 97 degrees outside, and 90 degrees inside, but I am coping well inside my house. I have a south window open and a north window open. Something about the breeze coming in makes everything OK, for some reason. And walking around very lightly covered. Gonna have to break down and put on the a/c tonight in order to sleep, no doubt.
 
.......... I have lined up a supply house for a capacitor if and when I need one. ........
Based on my recent experience, I'd get that capacitor in my possession. With this recent heat wave in Portlandia, every capacitor in every supplier has vaporized. The demand is like a tidal wave as the ACs run nonstop and the capacitors fry. Store it where it is room temperature as opposed to inside the AC case and it will stay good. Amazon or Supply House has 'em for $20 or less.
 
I found Grainger had A/C capacitors in stock and sells to the public.

This was a couple of years ago, when the only supply guy to answer the phone said he would sell me one of his 10 he had for $250 :eek::mad:
He laughed when I turned down his offer.
 
I found Grainger had A/C capacitors in stock and sells to the public.

This was a couple of years ago, when the only supply guy to answer the phone said he would sell me one of his 10 he had for $250 :eek::mad:
He laughed when I turned down his offer.
Yes, I don't know why this collusion is not illegal. I don't see auto parts stores refusing to sell auto parts to force people to go to a mechanic.
 
Our 9YO grandson brings stuff here from moms, dads and his other grandparents for me to fix... he says if Pop can't fix it , it cant be fixed.

When I was a teenager I fixed a pocket radio for a friend of mine. It was a simple fix, just a bad solder joint that needed redone.

Well, my friend must have thought I was some kind of genius because he showed up a couple days later with a car load of broken electronic items for me to fix. He apparently went to every friend and relative he knew to find their broken items.

From what I remember, I fixed one item and told him to return all the others. I was flattered, but I was only a teenager and not that qualified. :)

There was also a time when he needed the shift linkage adjusted in his car so he could put it in gear. This was before the days of YouTube, so we went to the local bookstore, I looked up the chapter on shift linkage in a car book, then can home and made the simple adjustment on his car. Suddenly I was some kind of miracle worker "he looked at a book at the store then came home and fixed it". He was telling everyone of my impressive skills, his parents kept bragging about me, and so on. Sheesh, all I did was loosen a bolt, turn the linkage half an inch, and retighten. :)
 
I will make no comments about my 25 year old central A/C and hot water heater (fingers crossed). But I do have 3 capacitors from my Phoenix home that happen to be the same as my current home.
 
Mice ate through a water hose on the bottom of our dishwasher for the third time. This time I had the time and determination to plug the likely access with aluminum sheet.

Having watched the repair guy last time, and given that he was difficult to book another visit, I figured out the part number, ordered it myself and installed it. A short 4 inch hose with clamps released with pliers.
 
Today, I replaced a broken shear bolt in my 5' bush hog. I ran over a tree limb that was too much for it. Shear bolts break before there is bush hog gearbox or tractor transmission breaks.
 
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