Your recent repair? - 2021 to ?

I upgraded my kitchen recessed lights to LED, what an amazing difference. ...
What a smart thing to do! I only had 2 recessed lights in my whole house, and replaced the bulbs with LED bulbs (kept the same fixtures). I figured I'd save some money on electricity, which it true, but another thing I did was seal up the holes (because the fixtures were for incandescent, they had all kinds of venting). So this isn't a "recent" repair (I did it a few years ago) but I decided to use some of that really sticky aluminum tape and tape-up all the holes, since the space above the lights was unconditioned. There was a moment when I thought sealing up the holes wasn't a good idea for reasons of overheating, but the LED's put off almost no heat compared to incandescent. Besides, the fixtures have a heat interlock on them (turns off the juice if it gets too hot). So I checked, and those fixtures get just barely warm to the touch with the LED's on, not anywhere close to "hot".
 
What a smart thing to do! I only had 2 recessed lights in my whole house, and replaced the bulbs with LED bulbs (kept the same fixtures). I figured I'd save some money on electricity, which it true, but another thing I did was seal up the holes (because the fixtures were for incandescent, they had all kinds of venting). So this isn't a "recent" repair (I did it a few years ago) but I decided to use some of that really sticky aluminum tape and tape-up all the holes, since the space above the lights was unconditioned. There was a moment when I thought sealing up the holes wasn't a good idea for reasons of overheating, but the LED's put off almost no heat compared to incandescent. Besides, the fixtures have a heat interlock on them (turns off the juice if it gets too hot). So I checked, and those fixtures get just barely warm to the touch with the LED's on, not anywhere close to "hot".
I noticed freezing cold air and a bunch of dirt when I pulled the old ones out, they were not insulated well at all.
I also looked at each ceramic bulb socket and there was a light scorch mark on some of them like they had gotten pretty hot at some point. i asked my son if I should replace them and sent him a photo, he said it wasn't needed because the new fixtures are sealed and don't put off much heat compared to the old ones.
 
I noticed freezing cold air and a bunch of dirt when I pulled the old ones out, they were not insulated well at all.
I also looked at each ceramic bulb socket and there was a light scorch mark on some of them like they had gotten pretty hot at some point. i asked my son if I should replace them and sent him a photo, he said it wasn't needed because the new fixtures are sealed and don't put off much heat compared to the old ones.
These old recessed lights were the devil's spawn. They couldn't be insulated because they generated so much heat and they were not sealed so the hot air could escape upward. So, they actually acted like like hot air pumps into the attic. The LED caps solve both problems if you add back the missing insulation and seal the LED caps well.
 
I just found out that they now have "canless" recess lights that are just a flat disk. They just seal up the hole in the ceiling, and there's no leak.

It may be too much trouble to remove the old can, however. For new installations, these canless lights should be great.

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I have an old Torchiere lamp, it's not the 300W halogen but the fluorescent round tube with ballast, I think about 55W.
I'm considering picking up one of the flat LED panels, they come in kits to replace in ceiling fans and lamps, I'm just not sure if I can handle that and I don't want to break the lamp.
There is tons of videos on you tube about replacing the halogen with LED but none that I could find about converting a fluorescent one.
 
I have an old Torchiere lamp, it's not the 300W halogen but the fluorescent round tube with ballast, I think about 55W.
I'm considering picking up one of the flat LED panels, they come in kits to replace in ceiling fans and lamps, I'm just not sure if I can handle that and I don't want to break the lamp.
There is tons of videos on you tube about replacing the halogen with LED but none that I could find about converting a fluorescent one.

I just replaced a fluorescent/ballast in my ceiling fan with a circular LED kit. No issues at all. The replacement ballast for the fluorescent would have cost more than the LED kit, so it was a no-brainer.
 
So did you just unplug the bulb and cut the ballast off and then rewire it with wire nuts to the new LED panel? Part of my problem is I can't seem to unscrew the lamp to take it the pole apart so I can pull more wire through the tube. Next time my kid comes over I will have him try it.
I also have a ceiling fan with a 100W halogen bulb that I'd love to retrofit but the led kits that i was looking at one Amazon seemed to imply that not all ceiling fans will work and the size of circular led unit was not the issue. Would love to see a link for that part if you don't mind.
 
So did you just unplug the bulb and cut the ballast off and then rewire it with wire nuts to the new LED panel? Part of my problem is I can't seem to unscrew the lamp to take it the pole apart so I can pull more wire through the tube. Next time my kid comes over I will have him try it.

I cut the ballast off and rewired, then replaced the fluorescent bulbs with LED bulbs that were the same size with the same connectors as the old fluorescent bulbs. No need to replace the fixture.
 
So did you just unplug the bulb and cut the ballast off and then rewire it with wire nuts to the new LED panel? Part of my problem is I can't seem to unscrew the lamp to take it the pole apart so I can pull more wire through the tube. Next time my kid comes over I will have him try it.
I also have a ceiling fan with a 100W halogen bulb that I'd love to retrofit but the led kits that i was looking at one Amazon seemed to imply that not all ceiling fans will work and the size of circular led unit was not the issue. Would love to see a link for that part if you don't mind.

Don’t know if this is what you are looking for in terms of “link”. I bought from the ballastshop

https://ballastshop.com/amp/keyston...futurefit-circular-led-retrofit-kits-8-round/

Yes, I just cut out the old ballast (also removed the extra switch for the pull string switch since my fan is wired so that the light is controlled by a separate wall switch and I never use the pull switch). Then connected with wire nuts.


Also: you may be able to find a better price if you shop around. My handyman buddy thought I probably overpaid at the ballastshop.
 
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These old recessed lights were the devil's spawn. ...
:LOL: My thoughts, exactly! At least the devil of heating efficiency.

I cut the ballast off and rewired, then replaced the fluorescent bulbs with LED bulbs that were the same size with the same connectors as the old fluorescent bulbs. No need to replace the fixture.
I did this throughout my FIL's house for any flickering old fluorescent tubes. There were 4 instances, I think. Did it in order to sell the place. It's a 15 minute job per fixture. Remove the old bulbs, snip a few wires, strip a few wires, use a few wire nuts, install the LED tubes. Done. Did it in a few places in my house too. I got the LED tubes on eBay or Amazon. If you use the room a lot, pay attention to the "color temperature"...I got some really blue ones by accident, but they're just in the closet anyway.
I just found out that they now have "canless" recess lights that are just a flat disk. They just seal up the hole in the ceiling, and there's no leak.

It may be too much trouble to remove the old can, however. For new installations, these canless lights should be great.
That's new to me. Interesting. Like I said, I did a detailed taping job. The cans I have are a can within a can, which provides the feature of raising and lowering the inner can to accommodate the bulb, but adds complexity to the sealing process. I taped the larger can to the drywall and taped the individual holes in the inner can, then used used some of that blu-tack gum to seal the ring on the bottom where the inner can meets the outer can. Tedious. But it prevents the devilish exfiltration of air :)
 
A new dishwasher. The door springs failed on our 'not so old' dishwasher and it was also leaking. So after an extensive search we found a dishwasher available about 70 miles away that was actually in stock. Hoping nothing else breaks until the supply chain catches up a bit.
 
Our dishwasher just started leaking also. Pulled it out and the only area wet was from the bottom of a part I didn't know what it was for.

Looked up the part number and found out it was a diverter valve to send water to the upper spray arms. Googled leaking diverter valve for our model dishwasher and found out it was most likely a leaking grommet.

I found one for $6 and had it 2 days later. Installed and now no leaks! Thank you Amazon!

Whoo hoo, I thought we might have to replace the dishwasher!
 
This is a repair that hasn’t happened yet. My wife has been complaining of the sound of machinery running during the night that is not the heating/cooling system or refrigerator.

We were awake at the same time last night and I heard it, not loud or sounding like something broken, but definitely there. The next door neighbor on that side has a furnace and not a heat pump, so it’s not that. I don’t think it is coming from outside.

The house has a crawl space, and our bedroom is a long way from the hatch opening. I haven’t had occasion to go to the far side of the crawl space in our 2 1/2 years here.

Best theory I have is that there is a sump pump undocumented in the inspection report. I’ve never dealt with one before. Don’t they run for only a couple of minutes at a time?
 
:If you use the room a lot, pay attention to the "color temperature"...I got some really blue ones by accident, but they're just in the closet anyway.

This is a current pet peeve of mine. Stayed in an AirBnB Thanksgiving week that had cool white LED bulbs in light cans all over the downstairs living area and kitchen.
 
This is a repair that hasn’t happened yet. My wife has been complaining of the sound of machinery running during the night that is not the heating/cooling system or refrigerator.

We were awake at the same time last night and I heard it, not loud or sounding like something broken, but definitely there. The next door neighbor on that side has a furnace and not a heat pump, so it’s not that. I don’t think it is coming from outside.

The house has a crawl space, and our bedroom is a long way from the hatch opening. I haven’t had occasion to go to the far side of the crawl space in our 2 1/2 years here.

Best theory I have is that there is a sump pump undocumented in the inspection report. I’ve never dealt with one before. Don’t they run for only a couple of minutes at a time?
I don't have an answer for you but I was thinking about your situation. I can't imagine having piece of equipment in my house that I did not even know was there and having it running. Maybe even not knowing what it is that is actually running.
 
I don't have an answer for you but I was thinking about your situation. I can't imagine having piece of equipment in my house that I did not even know was there and having it running. Maybe even not knowing what it is that is actually running.
It’s very strange. I feel like I am pretty attuned to the house, and I could see the far side of the crawl space when I was under the bathrooms about a year ago. But I haven’t actually been to the far side and I have a minor repair to make under the house this week. So I will look around.

I will also go outside if I hear it again.
 
It’s very strange. I feel like I am pretty attuned to the house, and I could see the far side of the crawl space when I was under the bathrooms about a year ago. But I haven’t actually been to the far side and I have a minor repair to make under the house this week. So I will look around.

I will also go outside if I hear it again.


Hope you find it:)
 
Maybe a recirculation pump for the hot water although it shouldn't make a lot of noise, I can barely hear mine if I'm standing right next to it.
 
Maybe a recirculation pump for the hot water although it shouldn't make a lot of noise, I can barely hear mine if I'm standing right next to it.
Because of the length of the house, I’d like to install one, but there’s no sign of one right now.
 
Neighbors, 30 pound light fixture (or should I say chandelier) fell off the mount in his dining room. Thank purgotory for the safety wire. So he called his friendly neighborhood [-]Spiderman[/-] - Engineer Next Door.

Stripped wire, Blew Breaker, I now have it in pieces in my garage waiting for him to get some new mains wire so I can repair it and we will reinstall it tomorrow afternoon.
 
Our dishwasher just started leaking also. Pulled it out and the only area wet was from the bottom of a part I didn't know what it was for.

Looked up the part number and found out it was a diverter valve to send water to the upper spray arms. Googled leaking diverter valve for our model dishwasher and found out it was most likely a leaking grommet.

I found one for $6 and had it 2 days later. Installed and now no leaks! Thank you Amazon!

Whoo hoo, I thought we might have to replace the dishwasher!


Gotta love a cheap diy fix. :D
 
The battery on DW's car has needed recharging sometimes so with the cold weather I felt it best to replace it since it was 6 yrs and 11 months old.

However, her car is 23 yrs old and we drive it about 500 miles per year.

So I bought a new battery 24F and put it in my van, and put my 3 yr old 24F battery which has been fine, in her car.

I don't know how much longer we will keep her car, but I know I'll keep my van for another 7->10 years.
 
Another vehicle battery replacement here. My Highlander is 5 years old now and today it was cold outside and it wouldn't even turn over. I haven't been been driving it much so it was probably not very well charged, but I figure at 5 years, it is time. So, as I started looking into it, this vehicle is equipped with a special $300 enhanced flooded battery (EFB) due to the automatic start stop function. However, I have it equipped with a start / stop defeat device, so there is no real need for the special battery.

Off to Costco and $100-ish later, I have a new battery that fit perfectly. I was able to jump start it with my mini lithium jumper battery device which works amazingly well. That jump got me to Costco and it actually restarted again at Costco so I could put the new battery in at home.
 
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