Your recent repair? - 2021 to ?

I'm hoping I finally might have fixed the bathroom towel rail that has fallen down quite a few times over the years.
My son has already replaced the wall anchor a couple of times but it always loosens off probably from my heavy bath towels.
I happened to see a video of how to use expanding Gorilla Glue to fix it so I coated the plastic anchor with a thin film per instructions and screwed it back into the wall. The next day it was solid so hopefully the problem is fixed forever.

This fix may hold for a while, but if you have heavy towels you really should try to anchor your towel rack in the studs rather than using drywall anchors.
 
This fix may hold for a while, but if you have heavy towels you really should try to anchor your towel rack in the studs rather than using drywall anchors.

That and/or use toggle bolts. I usually try to fasten at least one end into a stud, but most towel racks are odd lengths (18" width vs 16" stud spacing). So I use a toggle bolt on the opposite end.
 
I replaced the gas regulator on my BBQ grill.

The other day, while using the side burner of the grill for frying, my wife noticed a gas smell. I immediately located a leak from the gas regulator.

After replacing the regulator, I was surprised to see the flames from the side burner and the grill were a lot stronger. Obviously, the old regulator also emitted a lower gas pressure, and we have suffered a gradual decline in heat output without realizing it.
 
Microwave light and fan wouldn’t shut off. Figured out an internal switch was not being engaged when the door closed and that plastic hooks on door were wonky. In a Hail Mary pass I ordered replacement door hook finger thingys and to my surprise, the fix worked!
 
Fluorescent bulb burnt out on garage ceiling which led to a family discussion of next steps. Turns out that converting 4 foot florescents involves a lot of decisions.,

In the end took the lazy way and bought $5 LED plug and plays that work with old school ballast supply.
 
Fluorescent bulb burnt out on garage ceiling which led to a family discussion of next steps. Turns out that converting 4 foot florescents involves a lot of decisions.,

In the end took the lazy way and bought $5 LED plug and plays that work with old school ballast supply.

I will suggest to use LEDs that bypass the old ballast (I'm pretty sure they all do, working with the ballast is the optional connection method for some that support it).

The old ballast will go bad someday, and it's more efficient to wire it direct. And no humming.

-ERD50
 
Microwave light and fan wouldn’t shut off. Figured out an internal switch was not being engaged when the door closed and that plastic hooks on door were wonky. In a Hail Mary pass I ordered replacement door hook finger thingys and to my surprise, the fix worked!

Way to go!
 
Microwave light and fan wouldn’t shut off. Figured out an internal switch was not being engaged when the door closed and that plastic hooks on door were wonky. In a Hail Mary pass I ordered replacement door hook finger thingys and to my surprise, the fix worked!

I had a similar one a few years back, but the door just would not latch, so would not come on. I found a youtube with almost the exact problem on that model (or a similar enough one). The hole in the plastic frame that held the other end of the spring that pulled on the plastic latching clips had broken away. My break and fix was a little different form the youtube, but I found a spot I could drill a hole and add a wire to the spring to make it work.

Frustrating that the plastic frame where that spring fit into could have been a little thicker, there were no space constraints. Adding 50% to the thickness would have improved the strength to the point it would probably never break. But then they redesign these 3 years later, and no one seems to learn, just another batch of problems.

-ERD50
 
The plastic bracket that supports the upper rack in our 7-year old dishwasher broke last week. I tried super gluing it but it only lasted two washings because of the heat, water and mechanical stress.

Once again, Youtube to the rescue! I watched a couple of videos and found the part online for $30 including shipping & tax. It took about an hour to get the rack out, repaired, and back in place. The most frustrating part was that the dishwasher is along a wall, so with the door open access to the far side was really awkward.

While researching the repair I also found that 5 years ago there was a class-action lawsuit against Kitchenaid for this very problem. It's been settled so no chance for any relief for us.

DW was happy with the results & relieved that we didn't need to call a repairman or buy a new dishwasher. Like Red Green says, "If you can't be handsome, be handy!" :cool:

BrianB
 
Today is day one of my new fence post replacement project. I allocated 45 minutes of digging and stopped, to save the back, shoulders, and legs. I plan to do another half hour to 45 minutes tomorrow. And on and on, daily, until done. The most time-consuming part is at the bottom. Awkward and tight, and deep. And you have to be careful to leave the soil groove in place from the previous post, if possible. The fence post goes about 3 feet down. No concrete, thankfully. But hit some rocks I might have to excavate. Down about a foot and a half so far.
 
But hit some rocks I might have to excavate. Down about a foot and a half so far.

I bought one of these electric jackhammers a couple of years ago and am very happy with it. It clearly is not for daily heavy duty industrial use but for occasional homeowner use it is terrific. The ground here has a lot of shale rock to the point that I'm a bit surprised that anything at all grows.The ground here laughs at shovels and snickers at digging sticks. I can do more in 15 minutes with the jackhammer than in two hours with the digging stick. Don't ask how I know that....:facepalm:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Xtremep...oncrete-Breaker-Tool-Kit-61108-XPH2/319467538

I ended up buying some of the accessories separately but they're cheaper if you can find a kit that includes all the ones you need. The shovel one is especially helpful around here and sounds like it might be what you'd find most beneficial:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Xtremep...t-with-Rubberized-Handle-61116-XPH1/317347247
 
I had to replace the carrier on my screw-drive garage door opener again. Exactly the same repair as 4.9 years ago, when I made this video: https://www.youtube.com/EjXRhB-tBjQ Not that anyone need watch that video...I basically just slip the old carrier off, put some grease on the screw, slip the new carrier on. This time, it doesn't sound too good. It works, but makes a stranger than average noise. We'll see how long this lasts.
 
I bought one of these electric jackhammers a couple of years ago and am very happy with it. It clearly is not for daily heavy duty industrial use but for occasional homeowner use it is terrific. The ground here has a lot of shale rock to the point that I'm a bit surprised that anything at all grows.The ground here laughs at shovels and snickers at digging sticks. I can do more in 15 minutes with the jackhammer than in two hours with the digging stick. Don't ask how I know that....:facepalm:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Xtremep...oncrete-Breaker-Tool-Kit-61108-XPH2/319467538

I ended up buying some of the accessories separately but they're cheaper if you can find a kit that includes all the ones you need. The shovel one is especially helpful around here and sounds like it might be what you'd find most beneficial:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Xtremep...t-with-Rubberized-Handle-61116-XPH1/317347247


I got a similar thing from Harbor Freight to dig a few feet of trenches for some new sprinklers on the line. Saw the plumbers using one to dig up a sewer line. Huge help.
 
Replaced two exterior doors on the house we are listing for sale in under 2 weeks. Steel clad, solid doors with peeling paint and rust, replaced with vinyl 9 pane half light doors. Took a chance, after careful measuring of hinge spacing, knob and deadbolt positions, found prehung doors with large windows for $309 each. Big chance was that I did not want to deal with pulling trim and siding and replacing the whole door frame, presumed that I could just take the door slab and hinges out of the prehungs and put them in the existing frame. The doors were cheap enough, I will just give the unused new frames away. It worked! (I was expecting a real headache!). On both door frames I had to widen the hinge mortise with an oscillating tool by 1/8" or so, and on one, reposition the deadbolt bracket/slot. But maybe in 2.5 hours had both done.

DW and I have been looking at each other and saying "why didn't we do this sooner, when were LIVING here?" about a lot of things.
 
DW and I have been looking at each other and saying "why didn't we do this sooner, when were LIVING here?" about a lot of things.

It is funny how we live with all those things on our houses that we think would be nice to do; and then finally do them when getting it all fixed up to sell.
 
It is funny how we live with all those things on our houses that we think would be nice to do; and then finally do them when getting it all fixed up to sell.


Yes, remodel that kitchen now instead of living with that crusty old thing.
In 10 years or so it should still look good if you maintain it. Meanwhile you enjoy a new kitchen. :D
 
It is funny how we live with all those things on our houses that we think would be nice to do; and then finally do them when getting it all fixed up to sell.

I can see doing some minor improvements before selling to increase the value. Some people really don't care what their house looks like as long as it's functional. So they wait until selling to fix a few things.

But if you want an upgrade and can afford it then just do it and enjoy it. Don't deny yourself.
 
I can see doing some minor improvements before selling to increase the value. Some people really don't care what their house looks like as long as it's functional. So they wait until selling to fix a few things.

But if you want an upgrade and can afford it then just do it and enjoy it. Don't deny yourself.


Apparently I see at w*rk too many TV show grade really nice kitchens in person. And show DW the pics, plus when house shopping we saw more of them. :LOL:


So, that 1956 kitchen had to go! Back in 2012. BTD. ;)
 
Done with fence post digging and replacing. Went more smoothly than I anticipated. No major muscle strains.
 
Yesterday, I almost got hit by the ball bearing that's installed at the top of many french doors. It flew out of its metal holder, hit the roof and then almost hit me. The door had been hard to close for a while and I had pushed it up/down a few times and that seemed to loosen it up and it was fine until today.
A Google search took me to YouTube and of course there was a video about what happened and how to fix it. It took me less than a minute to pinch the holder with pliers and reinstall it. I'll buy a new set for both doors if I can find them at Lowes since I don't trust the repair long term, that spring is putting a lot of pressure on a 10 year old holder.
 

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My daughter is in training as an EMI consultant. She was measuring all her outlets and switches in her house with a gauss meter and her porch light switch measured high. So she pulled the switch and noticed the back of timer switch was partially melted. I offered to repair it for her.
Put a clip-on current meter on the switch wire and there was 3 amps flowing when the switch was on. There was a porch light and three landscaping lights on the circuit. The last landscaping light had been removed and the pipe for it was sticking out of the ground and could see the wire inside the pipe. When it rained I'm sure water would go in the pipe.

Current was going to earth ground as the wire in the pipe was touching the metal pipe. Disconnected the last landscaping light from the circuit and then the remaining lights worked normally with 300ma of current in the switch circuit.
Next will add an gfi outlet on the circuit so it will trip in case of any current to ground problem.
House was built in the 60's , but not sure when the outdoor lights were added.
 
I drove our van to the store yesterday, I noted within about 1/4 mile that the oil pressure gauge read 80PSI. I pulled into a parking lot and contemplated.
Thought either a shorted wire or a bad oil pressure sending unit. Had my phone so I searched Youtube for 80 psi GMC Savana. It showed changing the oil pressure sending gauge. As long as I was stopped, I checked the oil, of course it was fine. So I finished my shopping trip. Today I picked up a Sending unit and 1-1/16" deep wall socket. and changed it. I had to remove two dash panels, none of the plastic broke, that's good on a 15 year old van. Then I undid the cowling, but I could not get it out, no matter what way I tuned it. Maybe you have to remove a seat, but I could not find anything about that. But I did get it turned far enough to make room to change the sensor. As soon as I started it it measured 40 PSI like it always does. It took me about 1-3/4 hours, but included tool round up and cleaning all the stuff from the cup holder and cubbyhole attached to the cowling. Not as bad as I was expecting.


This brings up a story, before I bought this van I was in the market to buy one. I went to a dealer that had a lot of used panel vans. I picked one and took it for a test drive, first thing I noticed is, it had 60 PSI on the oil pressure gauge, I thought that was a bit strange. On a whim I drove it home, about 8 miles, I got a wrench and small bowl and I drained a few tablespoons of oil from the pan. I then transferred the oil to a test tube I had and sat it upright. I then took the van back. When I returned home over half of the test tube was a thick clear liquid and the rest was oil. I suspect the motor had a rattle or knock and they filled it with STP or some other very thick clear lubricant to hide the noise. I never said anything to them, but that business was not there very long.
 
^^^^ Some dealers can be pretty shady.

Many years ago, our neighbor was a mechanic, and he told me how when he worked at a small used car dealer, one time a car came in that ran fine, but the oil light was on.
They cut the wire to the light.
A young teenager bought the car as his first car... A year later he came back saying the car was great !
Guess it was just the pressure switch.
 
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