Your recent repair? - 2021 to ?

[tb001]

Well, we got lucky and our water heater problem turned out to be a pilot light issue. The strange thing is that we have two water heaters linked together and *both* pilots were out. No disruptions to gas and other gas fixtures we have in the house are fine. I’m completely bewildered.

Well, I should have investigated further when we had the weird problem. Came home again to no hot water. This time water was pouring out of the cabinet where the water heaters are. Drain basins for the units are totally full and there is water damage everywhere. Water coming out of a small hole in the top of one of the units. Of course it’s the one that the guy who came out said was going to be very $$$ to fix…

At least I was able to get someone booked tomorrow to take a look. Shut off the water and gas. We also have a recirculating pump—now wondering if I need to shut that off too.

 

[JP.mpls]

i had my baseboards installed a year ago.. i may need to hire you to fix their shoddy work.

Lord just,
I bought new aluminum windows for my Florida place, and allowed the contractor to install them when I wasn't there. My cousin let them in.
They installed the windows, but damaged the stucco around two of the windows, knocked plaster off on the inside, and damaged a smaller bathroom window and just covered up the damage with caulking and a piece of metal trim.
I often hate the results whenever I hire people. I'm not unrealistic, I just want it done to a fairly professional level.
Ugh. Take care,. JP

 

[Jerry1]

This frustrates me to no end. When they quote the job, they don’t give you a deal because they’re not going to do a professional job. No, you pay top dollar and still get people that damage your house and think caulk is a building material instead of just a sealer. I’ve had a few real professionals in my life of hiring out work. Unfortunately, they are so few and far between.

 

[harley]

This frustrates me to no end. When they quote the job, they don’t give you a deal because they’re not going to do a professional job. No, you pay top dollar and still get people that damage your house and think caulk is a building material instead of just a sealer. I’ve had a few real professionals in my life of hiring out work. Unfortunately, they are so few and far between.

A year and a half ago we bought a brand new townhome in Ashburn VA, a relatively high COL area. The amount of caulk they used in the construction was astounding. We've had them back in to repair things for the 1 year warranty life, but all they know how to do is put more caulk on and slap on a little paint. I gave up on them, and will make some of the more egregious repairs myself. It should be an embarrassment to the builders, but they don't care.

 

[NateW]

We recently moved and now that we are mostly unpacked, I am getting to the things that need fixing or replacing. This week's project was replacing the 21 year old original propane water heater with new technology--an electric heat pump water heater. I also installed a pressure relief tank to meet code. The old water heater was scary: it leaked propane, burned with a sooty flame, and looked like it was about to rust out and flood the basement. It had no drain pan either.

Here are some pictures of the install. Notice the energy label on the old water heater; it says yearly cost to operate is $287, but that is at the 1994 propane price of 98 cents a gallon. It's about $3.50 a gallon now. That puts its yearly cost at a little over $1000!

And switching to electric of course means I have to run a 240 volt, 30 amp electric line (Romex 10-2 with ground) to the new water heater and remove and cap off the old gas line. The standard 30 amp line is required because the water heater has two 4500 watt heating elements, in addition to the heat pump, for fast recovery, but the water heater can be operated in heat pump only mode.

It works great, is inexpensive to operate, the cost of the water heater was less than a new propane power vent water heater, and it cools and dries the air in our humid basement. We can also claim a $300 tax credit at tax time.

 

[NW-Bound]

When I need to replace my water heater, will install a heat pump model. A 40-gal one is $1149 at HD, compared to $349 for the standard electric one.

I would not mind getting my garage cooled down with the water heater as a byproduct. It's equivalent to a 1/3-ton AC.

 

[ERD50]

We recently moved and now that we are mostly unpacked, I am getting to the things that need fixing or replacing. This week's project was replacing the 21 year old original propane water heater with new technology--an electric heat pump water heater. I also installed a pressure relief tank to meet code. ....

It works great, is inexpensive to operate, the cost of the water heater was less than a new propane power vent water heater, and it cools and dries the air in our humid basement. We can also claim a $300 tax credit at tax time.

Nice. Smart to add the expansion tank. Many areas require a check valve at the water main, so the expansion from heating water can create a lot of pressure on your side. I need to do that in my new home.

In the Midwest, we have natural gas available, which is a relatively cheap water heater to buy, and cheap to operate, so I've never looked into the heats pumps in detail. Sounds like a win-win for you.

-ERD50

 

[Music Lover]

The hot water line (copper) to the kitchen sink at our cabin broke, so I had to crawl under the cabin to repair it. I triggered the break by pulling up on the shut off valve...I barely moved it an inch when it snapped.

Rather than be annoyed I feel fortunate that it happened when I was there. The line had a corroded shut off and 2 other connections looked suspect. I cut it back close to where it branched off from the line that fed the bathroom and ran 1 continuous piece of pex up to the sink. While under there I also identified a couple other dodgy water lines that will be replaced in the near future.

 

[sengsational]

Put up 3 strands of 15 LED, 140 lumen bulbs in the new gazebo. I'll be putting in a dimmer, hehe!

 

[pdxgal]

Nice!

 

[pdxgal]

Now that I've ER'd and have the time, I am embarking on repairing some of the double-hung windows in my 1920 house. Only 4 out of 13 are operable. Very satisfying when done. It's a way for my soul to respect the old growth Douglas firs that were cut down.

 

[NateW]

When I need to replace my water heater, will install a heat pump model. A 40-gal one is $1149 at HD, compared to $349 for the standard electric one.

I would not mind getting my garage cooled down with the water heater as a byproduct. It's equivalent to a 1/3-ton AC.

That's the model I installed. It does not have the leak detect feature, though. Glad it does not because I did not get the pipe threaded brass fittings screwed onto the water inlet and outlet stubs tight enough, although they were probably tightened to about 50 foot pounds, and I used good quality thread sealer. Soon as the tank filled and I closed the hot water faucets upstairs, both connections began leaking badly. Drained the tank and removed both fittings and this time applied pipe sealer to both male and female threads and tightened them just about as tight as I could get them, using two pipe wrenches.

I read several review comments that said for those HP water heaters with moisture sensors, if the water sensor wick gets wet during installation, the water heater will not work for a very long time and there is no way to bypass or cancel the lockout.

 

[NateW]

Nice. Smart to add the expansion tank. Many areas require a check valve at the water main, so the expansion from heating water can create a lot of pressure on your side. I need to do that in my new home.

In the Midwest, we have natural gas available, which is a relatively cheap water heater to buy, and cheap to operate, so I've never looked into the heats pumps in detail. Sounds like a win-win for you.

-ERD50

I debated installing the expansion tank and figured why not. I am not sure if we have a sealed system or not. Our water is from a community well that serves the 32 home development I now live in. I did test the water pressure and it's right at 80 psi. Any higher and I would have to install a pressure reducing valve.

 

[TexasPE]

Two repairs for me this week: replaced the clothes dryer drum belt and tensioner, ($40), and installed a new carb on my gasoline-powered lawn edger ($27). Tried to clean out the old carb, but couldn't unplug the slow jet, and repair kits for these Chinese carbs aren't available - at least I can't find them. Also ordered a gas filter and shutoff valve - edger does not have them.

 

[sengsational]

Dishwasher Repair Problem

A big puddle in front of the dishwasher tonight. The water was coming out of the door. I hit Cancel/Drain.

I split the outer door and inner door, held the inner door in place and watched while I ran it again. It appeared that the level in the bottom pan was too high and so the water sloshed up and onto the floor.

So I thought it was the float switch. But the machine reacted when I picked up on the float, so the float switch at least was doing something.

This was a sudden thing.

So I'm not sure what to try next. DW said "buy a new one", and that might be the solution, but I figured I'd see if anyone here had any ideas.

 

[travelover]

.........
So I'm not sure what to try next. DW said "buy a new one", and that might be the solution, but I figured I'd see if anyone here had any ideas.

Dunno, but your brand dishwasher and the word "leak" on Google and YouTube should bring up a lot of possibilities.

 

[harley]

A big puddle in front of the dishwasher tonight. The water was coming out of the door. I hit Cancel/Drain.

I split the outer door and inner door, held the inner door in place and watched while I ran it again. It appeared that the level in the bottom pan was too high and so the water sloshed up and onto the floor.

So I thought it was the float switch. But the machine reacted when I picked up on the float, so the float switch at least was doing something.

This was a sudden thing.

So I'm not sure what to try next. DW said "buy a new one", and that might be the solution, but I figured I'd see if anyone here had any ideas.

My wife showed me this awhile back. You might want to check.

 

[sengsational]

My initial search gave me non-sudden kinds of leaking (gasket stuff). This went from ok to a huge puddle. Maybe I need to search "huge puddle"

 

[harley]

I've done a couple of repairs in the last few days. I replaced the control panel board in our dryer. That was a pain, but cheap.

We have a gazebo on the back deck, metal frame with a canvas top. It's been there for 6-7 years, and due to being on the shore it's rusting out pretty well. There's a top section and a lower section of the canopy, and during the last thunderstorm the top section ripped off at the rusted sections and blew into the yard. I'm not going to replace the whole structure yet, so I did a Red Greene-type repair. I took the top section and used about 16 zip ties to reattach it to the main structure. We had another pretty good storm last night, and it held up pretty well. Hopefully it will make it through the fall, and next spring I'll build a new one made from cedar to avoid the salt air issues.

 

[Sunset]

My initial search gave me non-sudden kinds of leaking (gasket stuff). This went from ok to a huge puddle. Maybe I need to search "huge puddle"

Could it have been how the machine was loaded, something blocking the float from floating ?

 

[skyking1]

It is an ongoing repair on an excavator bucket. I welded it to another bucket to stabilize it, cut the bottom two ways so It was relieved and then started heating and beating with a 12 pound sledge.

 

[Palmtree]

Several repairs this week. I have a wet bar in our basement that requires a waste pump for the sink and dishwasher. It stopped working so I had to remove the pump and basin. After a brief clean, it started working again. Not trusting it, I went ahead and ordered a replacement float and switch.
Replaced a rusted limit chain on our boat lift. It prevents the lift from sinking too far into the water. The original was galvanized and that rusted completely through. I replaced it with stainless steel. Expensive, but I won't have to worry about it ever failing due to rust again.
Repaired an upright vacuum cleaner. The brush roller bearings had seized due to years of hair and dust. The roller seized and stopped, but the motor didn't. So that burned then broke the belt. (The house smelled like burning rubber for hours) Some oil and careful cleanig got the roller bearings working again. Installed a new belt and it's back on the job.
Lastly, removed and installed two bathroom faucets in the master bath.

 

[Jerry1]

Went to visit my dad this past weekend. He lives ten hours drive away. When I got there, the 1/2 bath’s faucet wasn’t working. It was just spraying a little bit of water. The faucet is probably 25 or more years old. I was so happy when the aerator unscrewed. I thought for sure I’d be putting in a new faucet. The aerator was so clogged I couldn’t clean it and new ones are about $5, so I got off cheap and easy on that one.

 

[mountainsoft]

Replaced the pressure tank for our well

Yesterday I replaced the pressure tank to our well. I had noticed our water pressure changing as I used water, and when I went to check the air pressure in the tank water came out. So I knew the bladder was gone. It was 30 years old, so I guess we got our money's worth.

I had hoped to get another 80 gallon tank like our first one, but due to supply issues (COVID related?) no 80 gallon tanks were available within 100 miles. I could only find two 52 gallon tanks in the same radius, so that's what I went with.

It went fairly well except I couldn't get all the water to drain out of the old tank. I don't know if it was clogged with sediment or if the bladder somehow blocked the drain. Either way, I drained about 1/4 of the tank and wrestled it out of the pumphouse. Then I drilled holes in the bottom to let the rest of the water out.

I had hoped to reuse the tank tee, but unfortunately it looked like it had been leaking at one of the brazed fittings, so I just replaced everything (tee, pressure switch, gauge, and relief valve). Hopefully I get another 30 years out of this tank.

 

[sengsational]

Sudden Dishwasher Puddle Solved

A big puddle in front of the dishwasher tonight. The water was coming out of the door. I hit Cancel/Drain.

I split the outer door and inner door, held the inner door in place and watched while I ran it again. It appeared that the level in the bottom pan was too high and so the water sloshed up and onto the floor.

So I thought it was the float switch. But the machine reacted when I picked up on the float, so the float switch at least was doing something.

This was a sudden thing.

So I'm not sure what to try next. DW said "buy a new one", and that might be the solution, but I figured I'd see if anyone here had any ideas.

I did two things this morning, and it isn't gushing over the pan now, during my first test run.

I unplugged a stopped-up hole in the spray arm. It was one of two critical holes that propel the spray arm. The uneven propulsion may have got a cyclic wave going in the pan, and sloshed over the sill. So that could have been it.

A second thing I fixed was a gasket between the 9" circular plastic thing, held on by 8 or 10 screws. The gasket appeared to have blown out. I'm not sure that the lack of a seal there caused water to gush out, but it's a reasonable bet. And the blown gasket was on the front, towards the door. The gasket (circular, with a rectangular cross section) appeared to have stretched out; the length made it not go into the slot. So I just cut 1/2 inch out of the circle, and got it into the slot.

So that's a win. Even though I don't know what I did, I'll take it!