Getting rid of ants

bow-tie

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We have ants and they're driving us crazy. They are very little buggers... we think they are grease ants maybe.

Anyone have any ideas in an effective to way to show them they aren't welcome in our house, i.e., killing the little bastids.

Any info is appreciated.
 
If you know where they are coming from, CFB in the yellow jacket thread recommended using a "light" insecticide like Sevin:

Cute Fuzzy Bunny said:
The vegetable dust thing works great with ant nests too.  Suckers are down 2-3' at times and you really cant pour enough liquid insecticide down there to kill them deep.  Put a bunch of the dust at the entries to the nest and let the workers carry the dust down into the nest and kill them all.  Works great for those @#%$%@!@%$@%#$%@#ing argentinian ants we have here in california that are virtually unkillable.  Only ant species that will cohabit multiple queens, combine and split nests, and reoccuppy old dead nests...but NOT if its still full of insecticidal dust...

We are having ant trouble too.  One bunch came up through a hole in the asphalt on our driveway!  Greg used gas on that one.  :confused:

Your question got me looking more on the internet.  I found this site that talks about ants:  http://ipcm.wisc.edu/programs/school/section_5/ants.htm

I found our ants, Pavement Ants:

Pavement ants (Tetramorium caespitum) have been an increasing problem in the state. They are 1/8 inch reddish brown to black ants with two nodes, sculptured furrows on the head, and a pair of spines on the thorax. These ants feed on greasy foods including pet food and on sweets. Nests are often under driveways or sidewalks or in other concealed sites. Workers can be found in the kitchen. When swarms appear inside, the nest may be under a slab or similar location. Indoor colonies swarm at any time. If the nest cannot be found, baiting with a protein-based bait is most often successful. Barrier treatments will give seasonal control from outdoor colonies.
 
Borax, like 20 Mule Team in the box at the grocery store. Sprinkle it where you see the trail and at the entry if you can find it.
Works on fleas, too (but only on carpet). Cheap!

Sarah
 
Thanks for the ideas...

Keeping 'em coming if anyone has any.
 
I just read on the net to put out a bowl of dry cream of wheat, the ants will eat it, the cream of wheat will expand, and they will explode.

hum. I wonder.

I did find this recipe that seems to make more sense:

Indoor Ant Control
Supplies: 1 tbsp. boric acid
1 tbsp. mint jelly or peanut butter
1 cracker
Small cardboard box
Instructions: Mix the boric acid and mint jelly; spread mixture on a cracker. Punch pinholes in a cardboard box; place cracker inside. Place box in an area where ants cause problems, but away from children and pets.
Note: The mint jelly or peanut butter lures the ants in and the boric acid kills them.
 
Are you talking about "sugar ants--the little dudes that invade kitchens cupboards etc?
If so, in Texas I used the ant traps/baits that they sell in grocery stores.  Put em everywhere in the kitchen.  I even removed switch plates so I could drop them inside the walls.
It took awhile, but we whipped em!
 
Look at this as a long term problem.  It doesn't matter much how you kill the ones you can see - windex does a good job of that, but focus on not getting a new infestation.  Never leave a dirty plate in the sink overnight.  Empty all wastecans every night before going to bed.  Don't leave any food out.  Use baggies to contain any open packages.  Wipe down kitchen counters after any use.  Remove and clean any pet food bowls every night.  Make the person who left the food that caused the infestation - clean up the infestation.   If you ever spot a scout - redouble your efforts.  Once or twice a year spray the perimeter of the house with a commercial insecticide, but only use an insecticide on the outside, and handle it like it was battery acid.  
 
JPatrick said:
Are you talking about "sugar ants--the little dudes that invade kitchens cupboards etc?
If so, in Texas I used the ant traps/baits that they sell in grocery stores.  Put em everywhere in the kitchen.  I even removed switch plates so I could drop them inside the walls.
It took awhile, but we whipped em!

I'm not completely sure what they are.  I think we had sweet ants earlier in the summer... yes, we have had two flavors of the little &$#@ers.  I bought some Drax (I think that's what it is) over the internet and that, combined with some storebought stuff, seemed to knock them off, at least temporarily.  

The ones we have now are even smallter than the sweet ants.  I think they are attracted to grease, among other things.  They are a serious PITA.
 
http://www.ipm.iastate.edu/ipm/iiin/areasea.html

Grease ant is a name commonly used for one of the smallest ants found in homes in Iowa. These ants are technically known as thief ants. They are very small; only l to l.5 mm (1/16th inch)long. They are smooth and shiny and may be yellow to light or dark brown. Indoors, these ants nest in cracks and crevices of walls and cabinets, under floors and behind baseboards. The nests are frequently difficult to locate since the ants travel great distances in search of food. Though they will eat almost anything, these ants prefer to eat grease, fats and meats. Grease ants form a trail from the food to the nest and the moving columns of ants can be located with careful inspection.

These ants are very persistent and may be difficult to control. Ready-to-use insecticides applied into cracks and crevices in the vicinity of the nest may be effective, though re-appearance of the ants after a week to 10 days is common. Better control success has been reported when ant bait is used.

Most available ant baits must be mixed with a grease or oil to make them attractive to grease ants. Any grease or oil that can be mixed with the bait should be effective. I suggest vegetable oil, peanut butter or a raw pie dough mixture of shortening and flour. The bait-oil mixture must contain enough grease to be attractive, but not so much as to dilute the active ingredient below where it will be effective. Though exact proportions of the most effective mixture are not known, I suggest starting with one drop or of oil, to 5 to 10 drops of bait. If ants are not attracted to this mixture, try another oil or increase the amount of grease in the mixture.

Small amounts of the bait and oil can be mixed together on wax paper and then transferred to the area of ant activity. The bait can be placed on small squares of paper, the non-sticky side of small masking tape strips or directly on the ant trail. Baits must be used with care. Make sure the bait is out of the reach of children and pets. When ant activity has ceased, carefully dispose of the remaining bait.

 
riskaverse said:
Look at this as a long term problem.  It doesn't matter much how you kill the ones you can see - windex does a good job of that, but focus on not getting a new infestation.  Never leave a dirty plate in the sink overnight.  Empty all wastecans every night before going to bed.  Don't leave any food out.  Use baggies to contain any open packages.  Wipe down kitchen counters after any use.  Remove and clean any pet food bowls every night.  Make the person who left the food that caused the infestation - clean up the infestation.   If you ever spot a scout - redouble your efforts.  Once or twice a year spray the perimeter of the house with a commercial insecticide, but only use an insecticide on the outside, and handle it like it was battery acid.  

Well, besides being a little anal retentive, you are absolutely right.

We've had very good luck with a product called Grant's Ant Stakes. These are stake pods that you place in the ground. The ants take the poisen jelly from the stake back to the Queen ant where the queen ant is killed. It takes a month or so to get rid of the problem, but they never come back. In the meantime you can spray or wipe till the anthill dies off.
 
I'm with JPatrick on using ant traps. Don't use insectiside anywhere near them or it will prevent the little devils from taking the bait. And be patient, it does take a while to see results.
 
I've never had any luck with Grant's - I've tried them on at least 5 occasions (years ago).  I finally decided that I can't control the outside environment (easily), but I can control mine.  On two sides to my house there are serious ant colonies not more than 5 feet from the house, with trails that go for 75 feet or more.   I've never had any luck in eradicating the colonies and I do get an infestation inside the house every two years or so.   Everytime there was a reason, and every time taking steps to remove the source of their food worked in preventing a re-infestation.  I gave up trying to kill them and just try to coexist with them now. Now termites . . . that's a tougher problem.    
 
Some ant types go for traps and others just wont bite.

Depends on the ant and what part of the country you live in.

What part of the country do you live in? What do the ants look like?

We have argentinian ants, which are the worst little @#$%$'s on the planet. They're special in that multiple queens will live in the same nest together, and they will split and combine nests, even repopulating formerly dead nests. They attack and kill wasp nests, termite nests, etc.

Basic ant protection, what I do twice a year:

1: get one of those general insecticides that screws to the end of the hose. Spray all the ground area according to the instructions. Let dry before letting people/animals on the area...once dry the stuff is fairly safe. Dont spray the bushes, trees, shrubs or any open water like ponds, pools, etc.

2: get a jug of 'home defense' type insecticide and a $9 sprayer. Spray in a circuit around your foundation or slab, in any crack in any concrete, the edges of any walkway, and in any areas you see or have seen ants.

3: if you find an ant nest or trail, put some Sevin dust or equiv on the nest or trail and remove once you stop seeing ants. They've now carried this into the nest and killed it. I have a squeeze bottle (for mustard!) that is good for this, and one of those metal pump dusters

4: maintain ant bait traps if they work for you. They do nothing at all for me.

Ants generally move twice a year...they want to be high, dry and warm during your cold/rainy seasons and in the ground during the warm/dry seasons. Trick is to do your spraying just prior to these movements. Easy here in the southwest where you generally know when the first real rains of the season will start for the fall spraying and when the rains have pretty much let up for spring spraying.

If you're dilligent, you can get by with just the sevin dust on the nests and trails, and a can of Raid to spray any baseboard/doorway/wall entries you see inside the house.

Gasoline, bleach and all these other bits are of no help. A large ant nest can be 3-5' deep, 10'+ across, and is usually segmented into multiple chambers against liquid incursion.

Oh yeah...might take you 2-3 years to get them out of a house or out from under a slab or driveway. First thing they do when threatened is move the nest. Thats why the vegetable dust is so effective...they get coated walking through it, take it home, then die.

One last thing...some termites look an awful lot like some ants...you need a big magnifier to tell the difference between one strain of ant we have in my area and a strain of termite.

The above spraying regimen costs me about $50 a year and takes about an hour in the spring and an hour in the fall. No ants in my house.
 
Down here we have this deal where you might "tent" your house every 10 years or so. It's intended for a type of termite but kills everything else, too. They literally shroud your house in a plastic tent, covering the roof, garage, you name it. You vacate and they blow in this toxic gas which displaces the oxygen. It allegedly dissipates so quickly that even a small opening in the tenting ruins the effect.

They they come back, remove the tent, open the windows and voila you get your house back. The whole thing sounded horrendous. But apparently it is so transient that when you compare it to the usual spraying, insecticides, traps, etc. it's no worse, and maybe even safer long term.

Anyway, we did it a couple of years ago for termites. We survived (what's a few IQ points, anyway) and haven't had a single problem with any bugs since then. Drastic but effective.
 
Cute Fuzzy Bunny said:
multiple queens will live in the same nest together, and they will split and combine nests, even repopulating formerly dead nests. 

Yup, that sounds to me like a problem that would be pretty much exclusive to Calyfornya :LOL:
 
Ortho has an ant dust that has the same active ingredient that the professional exterminators use, but in a lesser concentration. Spread this around the mound, if visible, or in cracks/crevices in you house, and seems to work well.

Make sure the infestation is not of the kind that is house destructive. (i.e. earlier comment about termites--or carpenter ants). If that is the case, probably pays to get professional help.
uncledrz
 
"HOT SHOT" Boric Acid $3.00 local Home Depot. Cheaper than exterminator, no mixing mess, neat little applicator bottle, really quick. I go around all entry zones and NO MORE BUGGIES in the house!!! 8)
 
Boric acid is a good low toxicity solution for keeping them out of the house, providing you get good coverage and dont have any cracks in the slab (if you're built on one) or they make their way through drains or the drain openings in a slab. I had the little SOB's coming up from the drain under one of my tubs; fortunately I had access to that through the side of one of the bathroom cabinets. Wont do anything about the nests outside or repel them from the property. As long as your goal is to just keep them out of the house, you're good to go.

Ortho ant dust uses permethrin, which is a very good insecticide. Fast working. You will kill any bugs that come in contact with it, and quite directly. If its a sizeable nest, the ants will probably move.

The carbaryl in the Sevin dust is slower working and really, really mild stuff. You can dust a pet and a pets bedding using the 5% variety, and eat fruits and vegetables that have been dusted with it without any ill effects. I use the 10% variety, and its slow enough working for them to get home covered in it before they drop dead.

These argentinian ants we have are tough enough that you have to take a more active role in not only keeping them out of the house, but driving them away from it and controlling the nests.

This reminds me a bit of a conversation I was having with one of my neighbors regarding home security. You dont have to make your house theftproof, but if you can make it more of a pain in the ass to try to get into your house than someone elses house, the thiefs gonna pick someone else. The old bear and the sneakers joke. I'm making my property just unpalatable enough for the buggers to decide that somebody elses yard looks good to them.
 
Hey CFB,
As the board's resident home chemist and bug expert, can you tell what your flea control secrets are...your comment about sevin dust reminded me that my dad used to use that on the dogs.
We are fighting a losing battle this summer, even with all the expensive stuff now available. Plus one dog has really dry skin, so the advantage stuff doesn't work at all--she's on cortisone as well. I've tried the heartworm/flea control once a month stuff, the advantage, Capstar pills, flea powder, flea baths, and spray. Any advice? 4 dogs, 5 cats, 4 acre yard, they are indoor/outdoor pets. Thanks!
Sarah
 
Never get them at all. I think because we keep the yard well sprayed they just dont get them. Once in a blue moon I find a tick on one of them, but its pretty rare.

I had a little trouble with them on the cats when I lived in the bay area many years ago. I had a spray from Zodiac (comes in a spray bottle) that you spritzed on the carpets and it prevented eggs from hatching. I also bought a little box with a light in it that went on the floor in the kitchen where I had linoleum...the fleas would go to the light, hop in the box and not be able to get out.

When I started spraying the yard with the hose-end based insecticides, they went away altogether.

I also used a product called 'revolution' thats an all-in-one pet product...heartworm, fleas, ticks, ear mites, etc. Its a back-of-the-neck liquid item, so may bother your doggies skin. But its ingredients are very different from advantage, so maybe it wont bug your pup.

Four acres is a lot to spray...but it'd probably cost you under $150 and all ya need is a long hose. Is it all irrigated or is some of it dry? Fleas really like moisture...
 
I have used Revolution, might try it again (going to drop a few hundred at the vet this afternoon on supplies). We don't seem to have them in the house (I guess they are all on the dogs, but not so much on the cats).

The yard spray might be a good idea, at least under the house (up on pilings 19 feet) and around the shed they like to get under to stay coo. The yard sn't irrigated but our relative humidity might qualify as irrigation this time of year! I've had house infestations in past years, and used Nylin (sp?) to prevent the eggs from hatching.
Thanks for the ideas....I'm up for trying all of them at this point!
Sarah
 
Scientific American must have run out of ideas for their August issue because I think they've been reading these threads.

"Alternatives to organophosphate pesticides (like Dichlorvos) exist, notably pyrethrins, which are used in insect sprays, flea treatments, and shampoos for head lice. These compounds, originally derived from chrysanthemum flowers, alter nerve cell function but in a different way from organophosphates. They are not entirely safe either.
"One better alternative is boric acid, especially when used in bait traps, which draw bugs and keep the chemical contained.
"Fortunately the best ways to control insects in the home do not require any pesticides, just good housekeeping: washing dishes and emptying the garbage daily, sealing food containers, repairing screens, caulking cracks and gaps, and keeping bathrooms and kitchens as dry as possible."
 
One useless information but interesting anyway. If you draw a line on the concrete using a piece of Chaulk the ants will not cross it.
 
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